Wall mounting a pullup bar on a concrete wall?

[Hal65]

Saw this wall mounted pullup bar on Lazada: http://www.lazada.co.th/oem-wall-mountedchin-up-bar-6101229.html

It looks like just what I need. But I'm not sure if it's safe.

1) Will concrete screws be enough to keep this secure?

2) How much damage will there be to the wall? What will be needed to fix it after the bar is (eventually) removed?

Thanks

[manfredtillmann]

is your concrete wall actually 'THAT'? or just a rendered clay brick wall?

[lopburi3]

Actually clay brick is about as good as it gets here - walls are not designed to be supporting structures and the modern aerated concrete type wall is doing well to hold a picture frame. Even mounting a TV requires huge bolts.

[daveAustin]

Ideally you'd want to go right the way through with threaded bar and penny washers if you had access to both sides, but rawl-type masonry bolts at the least.

These are widely available.

You can buy small bags of premix mortar for when you remove it.

[Torrens54]

Wouldn't rely on it "holding" no matter what you anchor it with.

Likely wake up and find yourself doing "Pull-ups" on a Traction Bed in a Local Hospital.

[aussiandrew]

Most walls in Thailand are made out of single hollow bricks.

Depending on as said previously assess to boths to allow drilling all the way through to allow the use of all thread and bolts, washes and spring washers to carry the weight of you pulling down on it.

For example how must do you weigh? The steel locking boltes also previously mentioned have atendency to come loose and you could end up crashing down on the ground. Good luck with keeping fit.

[Hal65]

Ya I'm probably just going to buy a power tower instead

[manfredtillmann]

good move

[sirineou]

Not necessary if you chose your mounting location properly,

Difficult to give you specific advice because we dont know your property and how it was constructed but,

Most homes are constructed via the concrete column and beam method with some sort of filler material filling the space between the columns. This could be cement block (breeze block) brick, or supper block, Usually there is a concrete ring beam located at the height of the top of the window running the whole length of the outside wall for extra straighten, it is the width of the wall and probably about 6 inch high and contains rebar, It would be an ideal location for installing your device, if it is not too high for you.

The bolts displayed on post #4 would be sufficient, the force necessary to pull them out should be far greater than any force you could generate while using the device properly'

Remember most force will be generated in a downward vector rather than outward.

if you are still concerned , there are bars that can easily be installed in your door with very litle work.

[Hal65]

Unfortunately I already tried the telescoping pull-up bar on my door frame. I could only drill the screws about halfway before they hit metal. I would say it was about a quarter inch to half-inch in. It held up a good three months before it dropped me as I was doing pull-ups. I was fortunate that I wasn't wearing my weights/dip belt on that particular set.

I had the feeling that either a loss of friction or screw depth would eventually cause the bar to fail. After a month I actually felt safer, but then of course it eventually gave away. There is a splintered hole on one side of the door frame which indicates the lack of screw depth is what caused it.

Edited July 5, 2016 by Hal65

[manfredtillmann]

Unfortunately I already tried the telescoping pull-up bar on my door frame. I could only drill the screws about halfway before they hit metal. I would say it was about a quarter inch to half-inch in. It held up a good three months before it dropped me as I was doing pull-ups. I was fortunate that I wasn't wearing my weights/dip belt on that particular set.

I had the feeling that either a loss of friction or screw depth would eventually cause the bar to fail. After a month I actually felt safer, but then of course it eventually gave away. There is a splintered hole on one side of the door frame which indicates the lack of screw depth is what caused it.

i think you summed it up. apart from the columns and beams there are few structurally components in standard thai building constructionthat would support your needs.

stick to your secondary plan of purchasing a self -supporting, integrated system that is fully engineered.

[tutsiwarrior]

if mounting a pull up bar on a typical thai construction house wall is not a good idea, how do folks mount the wall cabinets in their kitchens?

https://www.google.com.sa/search?q=kitchens+saudi+arabia&espv=2&rlz=1C1CHVO_enSA679SA679&tbm=isch&imgil=D8WXV4t-RSFXzM%253A%253BoPSt-1rhtjng1M%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Farmasksa.com%25252Fgallery%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=D8WXV4t-RSFXzM%253A%252CoPSt-1rhtjng1M%252C_&usg=__8dEa0p1LFJ3XyEMBZNrduWbdW-8%3D&biw=1366&bih=643&ved=0ahUKEwi0hYbMg4zOAhVIuRQKHaURCY8QyjcIYQ&ei=sKqUV7TtFcjyUqWjpPgI#imgrc=D8WXV4t-RSFXzM%3A

[sirineou]

if mounting a pull up bar on a typical thai construction house wall is not a good idea, how do folks mount the wall cabinets in their kitchens?

https://www.google.com.sa/search?q=kitchens+saudi+arabia&espv=2&rlz=1C1CHVO_enSA679SA679&tbm=isch&imgil=D8WXV4t-RSFXzM%253A%253BoPSt-1rhtjng1M%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Farmasksa.com%25252Fgallery%25252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=D8WXV4t-RSFXzM%253A%252CoPSt-1rhtjng1M%252C_&usg=__8dEa0p1LFJ3XyEMBZNrduWbdW-8%3D&biw=1366&bih=643&ved=0ahUKEwi0hYbMg4zOAhVIuRQKHaURCY8QyjcIYQ&ei=sKqUV7TtFcjyUqWjpPgI#imgrc=D8WXV4t-RSFXzM%3A

There are some major differences between wall cabinets and a pull up bar,

the weight that kitchen cabinets support is spread over a large area, where the weight a pull up bar is concentrated at the two attachment points.Most of force in a kitchen cabinet is on a vertical vector and is not as active as a person exercises . Where the force vector on a pull up bar do to the exerciser activity changes creating a resultant vector with a large horizontal component.

[tutsiwarrior]

there are load cycles to consider I suppose with the bar, however with both arrangements we are talking about point loads with no distribution (two mounting bolts) and the related stress concentrations on the supporting material from the drill penetrations and etc...

but, pseudo engineering mumbo jumbo doesn't answer my question...how do ye successfully mount yer kitchen wall units on hollow brick wall material (sorry, don't mean to hijack, etc...)?

[sirineou]

there are load cycles to consider I suppose with the bar, however with both arrangements we are talking about point loads with no distribution (two mounting bolts) and the related stress concentrations on the supporting material from the drill penetrations and etc...

but, pseudo engineering mumbo jumbo doesn't answer my question...how do ye successfully mount yer kitchen wall units on hollow brick wall material (sorry, don't mean to hijack, etc...)?

I guess you would need to get your info ftom some one other than me. I would not want to burden you with any more " pseudo engineering mumbo jumbo "

[tutsiwarrior]

hmmm...engineering related?...vector analysis rarely gets beyond the classroom or research establishments, one don't see much of that in an engineering design office...my mistake, sirineou, didn't mean to criticize...

but, what about them big loads like kitchen cabinets on hollow brick walls?

[sirineou]

hmmm...engineering related?...vector analysis rarely gets beyond the classroom or research establishments, one don't see much of that in an engineering design office...my mistake, sirineou, didn't mean to criticize...

but, what about them big loads like kitchen cabinets on hollow brick walls?

I Guess it all depends on the quality of the build, there are hollow brick walls and there are hollow brick walls.

For the most part they are more than adequate to support kitchen wall cabinets.

when analyzing the problem there are a few things to consider.

When attaching a pull up bar one end is attached to one brick, and half the load will be pulling at that one brick. it is conceivable that one brick and or adjacent bricks could be pulled out. Also there is a person actively yanking downward at the load.

The back of the kitchen cabinets is usualy 30 inch high times what ever the width of the cabinet. so let's say 30x36 area and the top and bottom are usually reinforced with a rib where you place your attachment points. and each cabinet is attached to the next one supporting each other. In some cases the cabinet it's self makes the wall stronger.

So a kitchen cabinet is attached on many bricks , the load is spread over a large area, and one weak brick could not be pulled out because in order for that to happen all the other bricks would have to be pulled out for the cabinet to move forward.

Also consider that most brick walls have a supporting concrete ring beam, usually about the height of the top of the window to strengthen the wall. That ring beam has rebar in it and provides the best point of attachment

If it is a double brick wall with a cavity in between ,IMO the best way would be toggle bolts

it will open up behind the wall and would be impossible to pull out with out pulling the whole wall out.

Amy way I have lived in several homes in Thailand and elsewhere in the world where the cabinets were attached to brick walls and I never had a problem.

[lanng khao]

Are you a big lad?, if you are I wudnt bother, good chance you will pull the whole wall om top of yourself

[lopburi3]

Actually Thai do not normally have wall cabinets in kitchen or anywhere else - most cabinets/wardrobes are self supporting structures here. But until recently most quality walls were red brick and could easily support attached cabinets if desired.

[Kwasaki]

if mounting a pull up bar on a typical thai construction house wall is not a good idea, how do folks mount the wall cabinets in their kitchens?

Not really the same but there are ways if the kitchen wall construction is problematic.

[tutsiwarrior]

Actually Thai do not normally have wall cabinets in kitchen or anywhere else - most cabinets/wardrobes are self supporting structures here. But until recently most quality walls were red brick and could easily support attached cabinets if desired.

are the units that they sell at HomePro supposed to be attached to the wall or are they freestanding? we've presently got 2 metal freestanding units with a cabinet at eye level...