Jessi Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 I have just tested the oil consumption on my car after I had an oil leak repaired. 1,000K it has used about 800 ml of oil. The car is 1996 Toyota Corolla done 233,000k. Do you think this is excessive oil usage? Many thanks for you help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgrahmm Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 (edited) About a quart every 2000-3000 would be on the low end of acceptable....None of our 3 vehicles uses a quart in 5000k.....Usually change the oil at 7000 without adding.... All have miles on them..... What oil are you using? A grade/type change might help.... Edited July 17, 2017 by pgrahmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessi Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 Im using Shell Helix 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgrahmm Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 6 minutes ago, Jessi said: Im using Shell Helix 3. Synthetic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bung Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 800ml oil per 1000klm is way high consumption. You will likely see it getting burned by blue smoke from the exhaust under acceleration. You might just need a top end rebuild (head) or most likely a full engine rebuild. A good mechanic can do a compression test and tell you if it's the head or pistons /rings (full rebuild for the latter) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessi Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 4 minutes ago, Bung said: 800ml oil per 1000klm is way high consumption. You will likely see it getting burned by blue smoke from the exhaust under acceleration. You might just need a top end rebuild (head) or most likely a full engine rebuild. A good mechanic can do a compression test and tell you if it's the head or pistons /rings (full rebuild for the latter) All they want to do here is replace with 2nd hand engine from Japan I went down that road many years ago and it was a mistake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessi Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 24 minutes ago, pgrahmm said: Synthetic? Helix 3 is designed for cars with high mileage. Thats what it says on the container. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgrahmm Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 1 hour ago, Jessi said: Helix 3 is designed for cars with high mileage. Thats what it says on the container. When I looked it up it showed C3 as a synthetic - is what you're using synthetic? It makes a difference.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Shell HX3 is a thick 25w-60 mineral oil for old worn engines. If your ride burns that stuff then the engine needs attention. Considering the age and mileage of your ride and perhaps the oil used during it's life then your stated oil consumption doesn't surprise me.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAS21 Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 (edited) Exactly which oil are you using ...pic of container. Is it still leaking any oil... I used a fully synthetic on our 20 year oil mazda lantis ... mistake ...it dripped oil. So I changed from 10W-30 to 10W-40 semi ...PTT NGV and it doesn't drip anymore...suggested after talking to PTT at a Motor Show A while ago I had a complete top end overhaul ...a local guy did it ...engine sounds really nice. Edited July 17, 2017 by JAS21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwasaki Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 That's high oil usage number of reasons for it. http://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/motor-oil/synthetic-blend-motor-oil/gtx-high-mileage-motor-oil.html The engine can be reconditioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 If me and didn't want to spend out reconditioning the engine I would stick to using the same oil. DO NOT put synthetic in it..... You may get the top end refurbished and fixes the problem, which may need new valve guides fitted to achieve this, but if it is piston rings then it will start costing as a re-bore and oversized pistons will be required.. Second hand engine, well it is exactly that, comes with no "internal" history... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwasaki Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 9 minutes ago, transam said: Shell HX3 is a thick 25w-60 mineral oil for old worn engines. If your ride burns that stuff then the engine needs attention. Considering the age and mileage of your ride and perhaps the oil used during it's life then your stated oil consumption doesn't surprise me.. Good call there buddy. Whow !! thick stuff err using the wrong viscosity oils in engines can do more harm than good. 145, 000 miles nothing really for Toyota, my son had Corolla with over 200,000 miles in UK the engine still purred a beaut. Interestingly some-mic not right here, history info needed on OP's motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anythingleft? Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Yes it's high but the car is old and has a decent mileage. Are you intending to keep the car, do you do long journeys? Validate the cost of all the anticipated work and drama before you even think of doing it. How much would it really cost to keep it topped up in a year would it really be beneficial to start testing, repairing or changing the engine?If your thinking of an exchange engine just run this one till it annoys you too much or dies... you will probably be suprised how long it lasts if it's not noisy yetSent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bung Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 You may as well just buy some cheap oil and keep topping it up as long as you don't do any long trips. But you have to realise it's on its last legs and will need a rebuild, an imported 2nd hand engine or just sell it as is and buy something newer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgrahmm Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Probably try a straight 30 weight next oil change....20% better than the 25 weight... Any smoking noticed from the tailpipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessi Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 No smoke from the exhaust, I had a friend follow me and he could not see any smoke. Here is a picture of the oil Im using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 3 minutes ago, Jessi said: No smoke from the exhaust, I had a friend follow me and he could not see any smoke. Here is a picture of the oil Im using. That is just a thick oil for stuffed engines.....If you are burning that then...... If your pals do not see blue smoke it does not mean you ain't burning it....You may only burn it at a certain RPM..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgrahmm Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 1 minute ago, transam said: That is just a thick oil for stuffed engines.....If you are burning that then...... If your pals do not see blue smoke it does not mean you ain't burning it....You may only burn it at a certain RPM..... Or deceleration.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombat Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 10 hours ago, Bung said: 800ml oil per 1000klm is way high consumption. You will likely see it getting burned by blue smoke from the exhaust under acceleration. You might just need a top end rebuild (head) or most likely a full engine rebuild. A good mechanic can do a compression test and tell you if it's the head or pistons /rings (full rebuild for the latter) a tin of Slick 50 is whats needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombat Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 just asking....any oil drips from parking overnight ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tifino Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 be careful of Slick-50. If you ever over heat the engine later, the resultant glazing will have that oil literally pouring down the walls. ... changing from Mineral to Synthetic: all those years of mineral build up from the older oils, that was keeping the engine together, will be scrubbed clean by the Synth' and the engine will again leak like a sieve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombat Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 1 minute ago, tifino said: be careful of Slick-50. If you ever over heat the engine later, the resultant glazing will have that oil literally pouring down the walls. i used a tin of slick 50 in every vehicle and tractor engine old or new that i had, flogged the guts out of some of them and never had a problem, if you can generate enough heat to glaze teflon from a motor you'd be putting kiln work on it to cure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAS21 Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 2 hours ago, wombat said: i used a tin of slick 50 in every vehicle and tractor engine old or new that i had, flogged the guts out of some of them and never had a problem, if you can generate enough heat to glaze teflon from a motor you'd be putting kiln work on it to cure From all the reports of testing, Slick 50 and similar products of which there are quite a few, show only one advantage and that is if you run out of oil, the engine will run for longer. There are apparent downsides, the main one being that the Teflon(TM) (wash your mouth out it's really PTFE) not only coats the moving parts but also the stationary parts, including the oil filter. I have to admit that many years ago I used it. At that time the internet was not available to research whether it is snake oil or not .......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgrahmm Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Don't know enough about the OPs car...But in some engines if there is a failure in a smog control system can literally siphon the crankcase oil & carry it into the cylinders where it's combusted and really doesn't show as tailpipe smoke, just oil usage.... Maybe somebody else knows...Just throwing thoughts out there..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonmarleesco Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 14 hours ago, Jessi said: Helix 3 is designed for cars with high mileage. Thats what it says on the container. But you're in LoS, hot weather, no winter to speak of. Mazda provided an English version of the handbook for our new 2. As a friend pointed out, the English version is not aimed at the hot end of global climes. A look at the Thai version's matching page, and the oil recommendations are wholly different; much higher viscosity levels, which is what you need to look at. That said, a twenty-year-old car is going to use a great deal more oil than a much newer one; though 800ml per 1,000 km seems excessive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whaleboneman Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 I'm concerned about how you tested oil consumption. More than one test should be done to get an average consumption. Car should be on same level spot and stone cold to get an accurate reading of dipstick both times. Just like testing fuel consumption - the more times you do it the more accurate average reading you get. Parking the car on a piece of cardboard under is a great way to see if you have any leaks. If you were to keep this engine as is, oil won't be your only extra cost. As engine efficiency goes down, fuel consumption goes up. Finally, when I see people write things like "Jap" engines, I automatically assume they are racists. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessi Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 7 hours ago, JAS21 said: From all the reports of testing, Slick 50 and similar products of which there are quite a few, show only one advantage and that is if you run out of oil, the engine will run for longer. There are apparent downsides, the main one being that the Teflon(TM) (wash your mouth out it's really PTFE) not only coats the moving parts but also the stationary parts, including the oil filter. I have to admit that many years ago I used it. At that time the internet was not available to research whether it is snake oil or not .......... Jas21, thanks for your input. I have never heard of slick 50, I guess its something like the wynns products. Can it be bought in Thailand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessi Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 10 hours ago, tifino said: be careful of Slick-50. If you ever over heat the engine later, the resultant glazing will have that oil literally pouring down the walls. ... changing from Mineral to Synthetic: all those years of mineral build up from the older oils, that was keeping the engine together, will be scrubbed clean by the Synth' and the engine will again leak like a sieve Thank you for your input, this is another new thing I have learnt today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessi Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 7 hours ago, pgrahmm said: Don't know enough about the OPs car...But in some engines if there is a failure in a smog control system can literally siphon the crankcase oil & carry it into the cylinders where it's combusted and really doesn't show as tailpipe smoke, just oil usage.... Maybe somebody else knows...Just throwing thoughts out there..... Thank you for your input and thoughts on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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