Crossy

Readily available on Lazada etc. You have to follow the instructions by stretching the tape a lot more than you think in order for it to do the amalgamating thing. But done right it doesn't fall off, ever!

Yeah, the crimps are specific to a range of wire sizes. Those joints do look a bit, er, skimpy, on the tape; but I doubt there's any real hazard. Compared to what you see fizzing away at wedding venues or markets it's hyper-safe!

With the exponential rise (mine is up 14% this year before any age-related increase) in insurance premiums, it's definitely worth keeping it up if you are entitled!

When you were 6, birthdays and Christmas were soooooo far apart!!! When you are 60, birthdays and Christmas seem to come around sooner and sooner (and you're happy to see each one, it means you're not quite dead)

Harry or Piers? Or both?

Is there any chance we could make Asean Now A "Sussex's Free Zone"? Please!

If it's done by PEA, they are nowhere near as amateurish as some would suggest! They've probably used service-drop crimps like this: - Which can be installed onto existing cables without cutting, just remove the insulation and crimp. These are what they use at the top of your drop to connect to the overhead supply. The tape will be one of the high-voltage self-amalgamating rubber tapes such as 3M Scotch 23 splicing tape. EDIT According to 3M data this is good to 69kV! 220V is a walk in the park. Which when applied correctly becomes a solid insulating mass after a few hours. This type of joint is pretty safe and waterproof although I probably wouldn't go around deliberately grabbing one. As others have noted, it's not yours and it's generally out of reach so nothing to do about it other than not try to touch it.

Welcome to the Bird-s**t Welding Club! (Do we need a separate forum?) The angle-grinder and paint hides a multitude of sins I learnt to weld as an apprentice xx years ago, trust me, it is NOT like riding a bike! I just don't have the fine motor-control needed to maintain the arc. So, it's Thai style splat and wriggle.

Yup, it seems that a government U-turn has occurred.

That's identical to our KwaiThong unit which happily runs our inverter welder. The welder says Imax is 27A but I doubt it ever really goes over 20A. It certainly has never opened the 20A breakers on our outlet circuits but we rarely run it over about 80A weld-current. It's also less than the 18k we paid in 2011 (but that was a flood-enhanced price).

As last-ditch protection after the BMS and then the MCB have failed to do their job. Definitely. In normal operation (or most abnormal operation) the fuse should never open so it should be a one-off cost.

From their FaceBore page ????

Both feet, whilst seeming remaining standing and playing the trombone!

More of a flap!

Can you link to the Nash unit? Wanting to run an arc welder may up the requirements.

The full report is here: - https://resources.unsdsn.org/2022-sustainable-development-report At a glance map: - https://dashboards.sdgindex.org/map

Yup, IP20 would mean basically finger-proof (objects up to 12mm) and zero water protection. Outside use only in dry conditions. One of many online references to what IPXX actually means: - https://www.wolfautomation.com/blog/what-does-ip20-mean-actually-what-does-any-ip-mean/

From your description it looks like they were being nice to you (OK, avoiding doing the paperwork) so they likely won't have logged anything before sending you on your way. I would think you'll be just fine to fly back, assuming of course that you meet the new vaxx requirements.

Potential hazard, it has 2-core cable and 3-pin outlets! Also, they say it's 2x1mm2 and that it's 16A (Bangkok cable 2x1mm2 VCT is 10A in free air https://www.bangkokcable.com/system/product/file_upload/210524_450!750V 70C VCT_1-4core_Rev04.pdf ) The red metal one appears also to have a 2-pin plug which would mean that the metalwork cannot be grounded! And the 3-pin outlets problem as above too. The middle plastic one looks OK, but we don't know the size of the cable, should be 3x1.5mm2 (it's sometimes called 2-core with ground just to confuse) for 16A minimum. We have one of the red ones (ours is yellow), but it's long since had the cable replaced by 3x1.5mm2 and the metalwork is connected to the ground pins of the outlets. In the end it's actually cheaper to buy the bits and make your own cables, and you know it's made right. Your pressure washer is 1,800W, so about 8A and it's likely double-insulated so it would actually be safe on all of your quoted leads (still really should have the red one's metalwork grounded).

Generally, you want cables of the same function to be about the same length. So: - Battery +ve's to bus bar = same length Battery -ve's to bus bar = same length (but doesn't have to be the same as the +ve's) Similarly, for your inverters. Unless you are actually paralleling cables the length matching isn't super-duper critical, say about 5%.

Whilst these guides can be very useful if your bike has a carb. our OP is talking about flooding as in lots of rain not fuel flooding ????

What makes you say this? MCBs have been used for decades on both AC and DC and provided you use a recognised brand are very reliable. A correctly rated fuse is vital insurance of course to back up the protection from the BMS electronics and the MCB.

the panels will be correct polarity (famous last words), so the only time you need to be certain is when you run your cables to the controller/inverter. Important. Your cables will have MC4s of opposite sex on each end to maintain correct polarity.