Crossy

THW is fine in conduit but being unsheathed it's vulnerable if unprotected. You might want to look at using a flex between your inverter and the breaker box. Thailand nominally uses the NEC colour code, Black-Live, White or Grey - Neutral, Green - Earth but the international Brown, Blue, Green/Yellow code is well understood. @007 REDhas done an excellent DIY install, you could do worse that copy his methods. Just search his posts for images.

I had the hots for Val Singleton, a trait which has lasted all my life (she's 85 now and still a looker) And of course there's the absolutely gorgeous Floella Benjamin (now Baroness Benjamin), when paired with Brian Cant on PlayAway superb children's (and parent's) entertainment.

I'd step up to 6mm2 for the AC side. Lots of mains rated cables available from the big-box DIY places and even your local hardware store. Will it be running naked or in some kind of containment (trunking/conduit). Just follow normal mains wiring practices and you're good to go. There's not really such a thing as "DC" cables, the cables sold as "solar" have a (supposedly) more UV and general environment resistant sheath.

8AWG is around 4mm2 good for 32ish Amps or about 7kW. What size inverter are you looking at?

At this rate the whole country will be so high they won't be needing a spacecraft to get to the moon ???? Judging by the size of the shrooms in the initial photo they won't be needing too many

There "should" be a "Keep me logged in" box, there or missing?? Could you post a screenshot please.

I've checked with Admin, we don't have an inactivity log-off function set up so it's possible that something else is forcing you off. Do you see a message or are you simply logged out when you return to the forum?

But it uses an Android emulator!

For the PC it's a website https://home.solarman.cn/main.html I think I set up the Android App first then used the same log-in details (it was a while back).

308403dc-cb1d-434d-ae1d-9ccd95e93610.mp4

Inverters are, I understand, zero duty, so just the VAT and handling charge. A handy-dandy duty calculator is here https://www.simplyduty.com/#calc

Yeah, thought provoking but often strangely humorous, maybe that's why we remember them. Sadly the cartoon that goes with this seems to be lost to time, but it still rings true every time I see Thai on-site operations:- Sir Isaac Newton told us why, an apple falls down from the sky; and from this fact it’s very plain, all other objects do the same, A brick, a bar, a bolt, a cup, invariably fall down not up; and every common working tool is governed by the self-same rule. So if at work you drop a spanner, it travels in a downward manner. At work, a fifth of accidents and more celebrate old Newtons law. For those who have no idea what we are on about, this one isn't lost.

The CIF is Cost, Insurance, Freight. You pay duty on everything, then VAT on the total ???? It's like this globally so not just a Thai "issue", many don't understand where the "excessive" duty and tax comes from. At least when buying from a local seller that's all handled before you see the price.

You want the path from the surge suppressors to ground to be as short and straight as possible. Lightning surges are very fast and anyone who's had dealings with Radar will know that fast edges have an annoying habit of going straight on at bends in the current path. Also. If you have a few kA going down even .1ohms that's hundreds of volts just dropped on the resistance alone, and the inductance of a straight wire can become significant at the speeds we are looking at here. Google "Lecher Line" and/or "straight wire inductance" for some fun reading! Lightning surges are decidedly weird, you can't use conventional electrical theory.

If it's coming from China on HS code 8507.60.0000 then expect 10% duty plus 7%VAT on the CIF value plus a "handling fee".

Fairy-nuff. It really depends upon the price-point our OP is renting at. In the past I've spent rather more than 1,500 Baht on a tool (the printer is definitely a tool) for a specific "5 minute" job which has then sat on the shelf for an indeterminate time before being needed again. If it makes the job easier (and maybe more professional looking) then it's a go and label printers do tend to find themselves jobs. But that's just me ...

Yeah, that would work, and definitely prove to the renters that @carlyai is a tightwad landlord ????

Ours are on short lengths of 10mm2, but generally the bigger the better, whatever is in stock ????

Yeah, that's what I've done for breaker labels, stuck on with "Sticko" or "Pritt" (glue stick). The problem with light switches is that they get sticky user fingers all over and paper labels don't really like being wiped with the proverbial damp cloth.

There is on ours, yours may be different. Without knowing how/where your inverter is mounted relative to the house and the existing rod it's very impossible to give specific advice, one size does NOT fit all. You can just see the "earth" symbol poking out from behind the green sleeve.

And just how does that solve the problem?

You could try the manufacturer, many of the Chinese makers actually have pretty good support.

The inverter will have a terminal on the casework marked as ground. That would depend upon how far your inverter etc. are from the house ground. You might be better running as a TT island if you are far from the existing rod in which case the inverter earth lead would go to the local ground too.