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There are a few dated march 2023, the same month you couldn't find them.....

That is what I paid a year ago, go to a dentist and not to a private hospital, they tend to be more expensive

oh the envy..

It is an official Id document and much easier to carry around than a passport. I use it when traveling and staying at hotels which then don't (cant?) report ou as a foreigner staying there.

Nah, I don't do photos of food I eat or the restaurants. Do check the dates of the photos from your google map link or go check for yourself if it is the same duck restaurant today as it was before covid.

Misconceptions. The ones they've got about you, the ones you've got about them.. yada yada

It still is very good and they are still there, I ate there today. It is popular so you have to get there early (at latest 1 o'clock) because they serve Khao Kha Mo after they are sold out of duck.

The factory settings give you quite a big operation range for both frequency and voltage so I don't think changing them will improve anything, normally your grid should be far away from those lower and upper limits. You really don't want to allow a wider voltage range, those values are for protection. If you are using the Solarman PC software then you can easily see a list of alerts and check them against the 24 hour graphs for that day to see if there are any strange dips in production or consumption.

I have the same inverter, just the 12KW big brother of yours, and I am running it with factory AC settings. I had a couple of warning alerts the first month but they seem to have disappeared now. A few of them occurred when PEA high-voltage fuse blown and was probably caused by the transients/ringing on the HV-lines, nearby lightning is likely to do the same. I wouldn't worry to much about those warnings, they never cut off the inverter for me.

I've told you what I have and I've also informed you of the variables involved. Start with reading your PEA meter at sunrise and sunset for a couple of days, mixed rainy and sunny, so you get an idea of your power consumption. Then decide how much of a 24 hour day you want to cover with panel power (and battery power). With that said I'm now leaving your thread.

How long is a rope? You are the only one who can decide how many panels you need which is mainly based on your power consumption between 07-17. The size of a single panel and its power rating is available from the seller or you can google it for a specific panel. Reduce 10% of panel power to compensate for losses. Choose an all-in-one off-grid hybrid inverter which can run in grid-tie mode, it will produce up to its limit (or panel power limit) for your house use and if that is not enough then it will take the reminder from the grid. If the inverter dies after you die then everything will be as if you've never had an inverter, your family will get a PEA bill for every KWh they use. No need for an electrician to come and scratch his head.. If you are thinking of adding batteries then it can be done later but then you may need more panels depending on how much battery storage you choose and how fast you want to fully charge them. 07-17 is daylight but best solar power is between 9-15. My system is 16 455W panels in W, 16 455W panels in east and a Deye 12KW 3-phase hybrid inverter and 25KWh of batteries. The batteries covers the time 17-07 and are down to 25% at sunrise, then I usually have enough panel power between 07-08 to start charging them again while at the same time produce enough for the house consumption. Batteries are usually full right after midday. Then comes the rainy season and make havoc of all your plans and calculations...

Coming back with a WP and a request letter from the employer is the best option

Sometimes god punish immediately

Sometimes immediately, sometimes a day or two later. It all depends on how many applications they have in the pipeline and when the big boss approving them is in the office.

There is a thread for it.. https://aseannow.com/topic/1102143-an-idiots-guide-to-the-retirement-extension-process-at-samui-immigration-office/page/9/

Very important, you can under certain occasions get very low phase voltage(s) that can destroy your water pump motor or fridge/aircon compressors. They are available for DIN-rail mounting in either 1-phase or 3-phase versions. I'd recommend to use 3 of the 1-phase versions instead of the 3-phase version which will disconnect all 3 phases when there is a problem only on a single phase. The 1-phase versions will only disconnect the problematic phase.

Thailand has jacked up the transformer output voltage to 230V/400V where I live, I guess to follow which is becoming a global standard. Europe has had it for decades.

There's our difference, if my batteries are too low at night then the inverter will use the grid instead until battery got enough charge from the panels in the morning. My ATS is a switch between on-grid and off-grid modes and switches only at grid blackout.

That's my default ATS input position (A, grid) and there the inverter will produce as much as the house consumes up to the inverter limit after which any additional power needed is taken from the grid. The other ATS input (B) is the backup load output from the inverter. When there is power available on both A and B inputs then input A has priority.

This is my curve for today, I have set the time frame between midnight and 04.00 to not go below 35% SOC so you can see that happen around 02.30 followed by 1.5 hour of grid usage. From 0400 - 0800 I allow the SOC to drop to 15% and that takes me to 07.30/08.00 without using any more from the grid. Today was a good solar day so I fed some into the grid to compensate ???? for the absence of sun tomorrow, we are expecting at least one non-productive day after a thunderstorm arriving tonight.

So around 0.1c ok so you only use around half of battery capacity before charging again. I have 5x5KWh (500Ah) of stacked batteries which is barely enough to take me through from 17 to 07 at which time I charge with whatever the panels can deliver up to a max of 150A which is equal to 0.3c The batteries are then under best condition fully charged around noon, sometimes not until 16 or some dark days not fully charged at all. They are charged with 57.6V and steps down in charge current when they reach 98% SOC where after they get trickle charged with 5A dropping down to a few hundred milliamps while climbing up to 100% SOC. The deviation between the cells is typical around 20-25mV at 100% SOC and that is good enough for me.

How high is your charge current when charging at such low voltage? How long time to fully charge the battery?

Mine does. I live at the foot of said mountain and have got those weekly blackouts for over 20 years, it is usually a high-voltage fuse that has blown and the PEA guys are always slow to come and replace it. I finally opted for installing solar, mainly to get a very high monthly bill down (big extended family, many aircons) but also to use as a big UPS. I probably would have bought one of those portable thingydingies if we didn't have a high energy consumption.

You should start with the 17 table, it is good training for the brain

3.35V (53.6V) is 100% SOC (at least on my batteries) they are currently at 53.1V or 97% SOC but I have also seen them at 55.2V. I'm using Seplos BMS's which are set for a max charging voltage of 57.6V which the BMS has told my Deye inverter to provide. Maybe you need to raise the charging voltage? Anyway, don't charge or discharge when balancing, it takes forever to get balance if the there is additional current flowing through the cells when balancing. Your JK BMS has a good balancer compared to the ones (passive, low current) in my Seplos BMS's.