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Growatt SPF5000ES Offgrid 9kw DIY Solar Project


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26 minutes ago, Muhendis said:

This is the One I have except mine is 63A.

 
 
 
 
SuperSales - X1 pcs - Premium Circuit Breaker MCCB 2P 60A Fast delivery, don't wait -[PhakanoteMarketplace shop sells cheap LED strip lights]

Premium Circuit Breaker MCCB 2P 60A 

 
 
฿1,212.00
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I try order all from same shop. i had problem to find much 600vdc at Lazada and shopee so i found this shop/brand on aliexpress. Will the one of this do the job? 

 

Or this one?

 

Pink

solar5.jpg

solar6.jpg

Edited by Pink7
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2 hours ago, Pink7 said:

I try order all from same shop. i had problem to find much 600vdc at Lazada and shopee so i found this shop/brand on aliexpress. Will the one of this do the job? 

 

Or this one?

 

Pink

solar5.jpg

solar6.jpg

That is an RCBO which is not really intended to be used as an isolator switch.

You could use a 63A version of this picture which is the same as used for air conditioner isolation but really the isolator picture I sent earlier is a better choice.:-

image.thumb.jpeg.6966811b2a43645c9bcb4ed619de7cd9.jpeg

Edited by Muhendis
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4 minutes ago, Muhendis said:

That is an RCBO which is not really intended to be used as an isolator switch.

You could use a 63A version of this picture which is the same as used for air conditioner isolation but really the isolator picture I sent earlier is a better choice.:-

image.thumb.jpeg.6966811b2a43645c9bcb4ed619de7cd9.jpeg

Are you able to share some link to lazada or shopee with some options who can be used?

 

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1 hour ago, Pink7 said:

Are you able to share some link to lazada or shopee with some options who can be used?

 

Pink

Sorry that one only goes up to 30A. 

Go to Thaiwatsadu and get this one.

https://www.thaiwatsadu.com/th/product/สวิตซ์ตัดตอน-NF63-MITSUBISHI-รุ่น-CV75|63-ขนาด-230-โวลต์-60181896?cate=610503

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10 minutes ago, Muhendis said:

Thanks for that i will check it out,, looks quite heavy duty.. 

 

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34 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

Thanks for that i will check it out,, looks quite heavy duty.. 

 

Pink

Yes it has to be because the incoming cables could be 25mm² and the ring crimp terminals are quite a size.

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Currently planning the setup in a room i have under my stair. I have a 20cm+ wide place behind my door i want to use for batteries. As i see Calb batteries are 18 cm wide so that would fit perfect as i can see it. Is there any problem to build a 16 battery long, (1 row only) and get the MBS to all batteries? If so are there longer wires or can they be extended?

 

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27 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

Currently planning the setup in a room i have under my stair. I have a 20cm+ wide place behind my door i want to use for batteries. As i see Calb batteries are 18 cm wide so that would fit perfect as i can see it. Is there any problem to build a 16 battery long, (1 row only) and get the MBS to all batteries? If so are there longer wires or can they be extended?

 

Pink

Stack the batteries.

IMG_20220813_103353.jpg

Edited by BritManToo
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8 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

Will it work to stack the batteries with poles up? 8 batteries +8 in the top? 

 

Pink

Sure, I did that with my other battery pack, layer of cardboard between upper and lower batteries.

 

IMG_20220813_105954.jpg

IMG_20220402_091033.jpg

Edited by BritManToo
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59 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

Currently planning the setup in a room i have under my stair. I have a 20cm+ wide place behind my door i want to use for batteries. As i see Calb batteries are 18 cm wide so that would fit perfect as i can see it. Is there any problem to build a 16 battery long, (1 row only) and get the MBS to all batteries? If so are there longer wires or can they be extended?

 

Pink

I would think twice about placing batteries and charging electronics under a stairway, particularly if that is the only way down from the second floor occupied space.

 

batteries also release heat when charging and that heat needs to go somewhere so the batteries stay within operating limits.

 

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16 minutes ago, degrub said:

I would think twice about placing batteries and charging electronics under a stairway, particularly if that is the only way down from the second floor occupied space.

 

batteries also release heat when charging and that heat needs to go somewhere so the batteries stay within operating limits.

 

Its under a large concrete stair with extra room added to it and with almost 3 meter to ceiling at that part of the room and built with qblocks and concrete so both space and temperature is fine.

 

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18 minutes ago, degrub said:

I would think twice about placing batteries and charging electronics under a stairway, particularly if that is the only way down from the second floor occupied space.

 

batteries also release heat when charging and that heat needs to go somewhere so the batteries stay within operating limits.

 

Hottest my batteries ever got was 2c over ambient.

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41 minutes ago, BritManToo said:

Hottest my batteries ever got was 2c over ambient.

Thanks for that info.

When the time comes I will be swapping my gels for LiFePO4's

The gels get quite warm with up to 60A flowing and need space for airflow around them.

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DC 1000V Surge Protector between solar and inverter need ground wire. Connect to same ground as use for the panel rails?

In this drawing its used 1000v fuses is that any good idea?

 

 

Pink

solar8.jpg

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1 hour ago, Pink7 said:

DC 1000V Surge Protector between solar and inverter need ground wire. Connect to same ground as use for the panel rails?

In this drawing its used 1000v fuses is that any good idea?

 

Size your surge arrestor to whatever the maximum input voltage of your inverter is. 1kV on a 500V input is going to be OK but 800V would be better.

 

For the MCBs, again look at the maximum voltage you are going to use and go over a bit, those 1,000V DC units would be good for pretty much any domestic level string inverter.

 

You can use the same ground for everything, if you have a metal support structure (like our car port) bond to that.

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6 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

Size your surge arrestor to whatever the maximum input voltage of your inverter is. 1kV on a 500V input is going to be OK but 800V would be better.

 

For the MCBs, again look at the maximum voltage you are going to use and go over a bit, those 1,000V DC units would be good for pretty much any domestic level string inverter.

 

You can use the same ground for everything, if you have a metal support structure (like our car port) bond to that.

I have not order yet so i have change to 800v. I will have a diy steel rail on top of garage, i should ground this right? then send surge ground to same?

 

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6 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

I have not order yet so i have change to 800v. I will have a diy steel rail on top of garage, i should ground this right? then send surge ground to same?

 

Yup, and don't forget to bond the inverter ground connections too.

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5 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

Can you explain more?  Inverter ac ground i will wire to home ground right?

 

The inverter will have a terminal on the casework marked as ground.

 

That would depend upon how far your inverter etc. are from the house ground. You might be better running as a TT island if you are far from the existing rod in which case the inverter earth lead would go to the local ground too. 

 

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17 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

The inverter will have a terminal on the casework marked as ground.

 

That would depend upon how far your inverter etc. are from the house ground. You might be better running as a TT island if you are far from the existing rod in which case the inverter earth lead would go to the local ground too. 

 

Is there other ground on inverter than the ground port at ac in/out? I expected to connect this ground to the ground in my power panel who is my main ground for home.

 

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4 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

Is there other ground on inverter than the ground port at ac in/out? I expected to connect this ground to the ground in my power panel who is my main ground for home.

 

There is on ours, yours may be different.

 

Without knowing how/where your inverter is mounted relative to the house and the existing rod it's very impossible to give specific advice, one size does NOT fit all.

 

You can just see the "earth" symbol poking out from behind the green sleeve.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.20810247bd3fc14edae6a76448ce172c.jpeg

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23 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

There is on ours, yours may be different.

 

Without knowing how/where your inverter is mounted relative to the house and the existing rod it's very impossible to give specific advice, one size does NOT fit all.

 

Thanks for useful info om grounding. What type/thickness wire i should use to ground the solar rails and dc surge?

 

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Just now, Pink7 said:

Thanks for useful info om grounding. What type/thickness wire i should use to ground the solar rails and dc surge?

 

Ours are on short lengths of 10mm2, but generally the bigger the better, whatever is in stock ???? 

 

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1 hour ago, Crossy said:

 

Ours are on short lengths of 10mm2, but generally the bigger the better, whatever is in stock ???? 

 

DC surge ground must goto the same ground i use wit panels? can ac and dc ground be same? could DC surge ground use home ground?

 

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8 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

DC surge ground must goto the same ground i use wit panels? can ac and dc ground be same? could DC surge ground use home ground?

 

You want the path from the surge suppressors to ground to be as short and straight as possible.

 

Lightning surges are very fast and anyone who's had dealings with Radar will know that fast edges have an annoying habit of going straight on at bends in the current path.

Also.

If you have a few kA going down even .1ohms that's hundreds of volts just dropped on the resistance alone, and the inductance of a straight wire can become significant at the speeds we are looking at here. Google "Lecher Line" and/or "straight wire inductance" for some fun reading!

 

Lightning surges are decidedly weird, you can't use conventional electrical theory.

 

 

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