BYD Seal tips, tricks and help

[Andrew Dwyer]

14 minutes ago, Pib said:

There is nothing wrong with your hookup regarding charging loss.   A good 7KW wall charger paired with a good onboard rectified in your EV will have around a 90 to 92% charging efficiency with the great bulk of the charging loss occurring "within the EV...at it's rectifier...associated EV electronics while charging, etc."    The Seal, Atto, and Dolphin sold in Thailand have a 7K single phase onboard rectifier (I read that some models sold in some European countries have a 3 phase 11KW onboard rectifier).

 

With my 7KW wall charger and my Atto I get a charging efficiency ranging from 90 to 92% primarily depending on the outside temperature at time of charging. 

 

so you are saying I should be getting 6.3/6.4 kw .

[Pib]

43 minutes ago, Andrew Dwyer said:

so you are saying I should be getting 6.3/6.4 kw .

It is possible to get 6.3 or 6.4KW, but based on using my wall charger with my Atto for the past 2 months the Atto usually starts off showing 6.0 or 6.1KW.....X-amount of minutes later it climbs to 6.2KW....sometime is shows 6.3KW for X-minutes and just for maybe 1 minute before reaching 100% it climbs to 6.4KW. 

 

The only time I see 6.4KW on the Atto monitor is just during the final minute of charge as its finishing the battery balancing/topping up process (BYD calls that "calculating" vs balancing).    I would say the great majority of time the Atto is displaying 6.2KW with the wall charger showing 6.85KW being fed in....this equates to a 90.5% charging efficiency.  And I do see a 6.3KW a fair amount of time which equates to 92% charging efficiency.  It all averages out to about 91% efficiency during a multi-hour charge.

 

Now keep in mind the "7KW" rating of wall chargers is a "nominal" rating....actually they maybe be spec'ed a little higher...maybe up to around 7.6KW but that don't mean it will ever put-out 7.6KW because the communications between the EV and Wallcharger will be focused on asking for a certain "amperage level" and the EV typically asks for 30A....not 29A...not 31A....but 30A from a 7KW charger.

 

P=IE...that is Power = Current (amps) times Voltage.  So 30A times 220V = 6.6KW...but actually your line voltage may be 230V....so, 230 times 30 = 6.9KW.  Or maybe your local lines voltage is 240....then 30 times 240 = 7.2KW.  And when I say the EV asked for 30A that don't mean exactly 30A might be allowed but maybe somewhere from 29 to 31A....your EV is controlling the actual amperage draw.   And of course your local line voltage might be 210V, 218V, 227, 235, etc...etc...etc....lord knows line voltage varies a far amount in many parts of Thailand.

 

The Wallcharger itself is nothing more than a "fancy light switch" that either lets the AC amperage thru it to the EV or cuts it off.  Other than the Wallcharger telling the EV the max amperage it can allow thru it, like 30A, 16A, etc.) it's the EV that determines the exact amount of current being drawn....the wall charger is only serving as a "safety device, fancy light switch" to not allow more than a certain amount of amperage to be drawn.

 

To know how much power your wall charger is actually feeding to your EV you need to have an AC wattmeter monitoring the KW output/voltage/amps.    I have such a wattmeter hooked up...and the maximum power it every feeds to the Atto is 6.85KW because my local voltage is approx 225V and around 30.5A is being fed to the Atto....225V times 30.5A = 6.86KW.   But sometimes I see a lower amperage level being drawn...like exactly 30A...the EV is controlling the exact amount being drawn....the Wallcharger is only standing guard to ensure it don't draw too much amperage which would cause the wallcharger to stop allowing any power to be fed to the EV...the wallcharger acts like a light switch.   Power on or power off.

 

 And due to charging losses all of that 6.85KW will not make it into the battery, but some of it (around 8 to 10%) will be loss in the EV onboard rectifier (i.e., AC being converted to DC, components heating, cable heating, EV electronics using some of the charging power, etc).

 

Yeap, seeing a charge rate of around 6.0 to 6.3KW is all you probably ever see with the exception of a brief 6.4KW just before reaching 100% and the EV shutting down the charging because it's battery is full.

 

Edit: pic of the AC wattmeter I added to my wall charger setup....it monitors the power/voltage/amps on the wallcharger output....the EV input.

 

 

Edited January 8 by Pib

[mistral53]

3 hours ago, Pib said:

It is possible to get 6.3 or 6.4KW, but based on using my wall charger with my Atto for the past 2 months the Atto usually starts off showing 6.0 or 6.1KW.....X-amount of minutes later it climbs to 6.2KW....sometime is shows 6.3KW for X-minutes and just for maybe 1 minute before reaching 100% it climbs to 6.4KW. 

 

The only time I see 6.4KW on the Atto monitor is just during the final minute of charge as its finishing the battery balancing/topping up process (BYD calls that "calculating" vs balancing).    I would say the great majority of time the Atto is displaying 6.2KW with the wall charger showing 6.85KW being fed in....this equates to a 90.5% charging efficiency.  And I do see a 6.3KW a fair amount of time which equates to 92% charging efficiency.  It all averages out to about 91% efficiency during a multi-hour charge.

 

Now keep in mind the "7KW" rating of wall chargers is a "nominal" rating....actually they maybe be spec'ed a little higher...maybe up to around 7.6KW but that don't mean it will ever put-out 7.6KW because the communications between the EV and Wallcharger will be focused on asking for a certain "amperage level" and the EV typically asks for 30A....not 29A...not 31A....but 30A from a 7KW charger.

 

P=IE...that is Power = Current (amps) times Voltage.  So 30A times 220V = 6.6KW...but actually your line voltage may be 230V....so, 230 times 30 = 6.9KW.  Or maybe your local lines voltage is 240....then 30 times 240 = 7.2KW.  And when I say the EV asked for 30A that don't mean exactly 30A might be allowed but maybe somewhere from 29 to 31A....your EV is controlling the actual amperage draw.   And of course your local line voltage might be 210V, 218V, 227, 235, etc...etc...etc....lord knows line voltage varies a far amount in many parts of Thailand.

 

The Wallcharger itself is nothing more than a "fancy light switch" that either lets the AC amperage thru it to the EV or cuts it off.  Other than the Wallcharger telling the EV the max amperage it can allow thru it, like 30A, 16A, etc.) it's the EV that determines the exact amount of current being drawn....the wall charger is only serving as a "safety device, fancy light switch" to not allow more than a certain amount of amperage to be drawn.

 

To know how much power your wall charger is actually feeding to your EV you need to have an AC wattmeter monitoring the KW output/voltage/amps.    I have such a wattmeter hooked up...and the maximum power it every feeds to the Atto is 6.85KW because my local voltage is approx 225V and around 30.5A is being fed to the Atto....225V times 30.5A = 6.86KW.   But sometimes I see a lower amperage level being drawn...like exactly 30A...the EV is controlling the exact amount being drawn....the Wallcharger is only standing guard to ensure it don't draw too much amperage which would cause the wallcharger to stop allowing any power to be fed to the EV...the wallcharger acts like a light switch.   Power on or power off.

 

 And due to charging losses all of that 6.85KW will not make it into the battery, but some of it (around 8 to 10%) will be loss in the EV onboard rectifier (i.e., AC being converted to DC, components heating, cable heating, EV electronics using some of the charging power, etc).

 

Yeap, seeing a charge rate of around 6.0 to 6.3KW is all you probably ever see with the exception of a brief 6.4KW just before reaching 100% and the EV shutting down the charging because it's battery is full.

 

Edit: pic of the AC wattmeter I added to my wall charger setup....it monitors the power/voltage/amps on the wallcharger output....the EV input.

 

 

 

Interesting that my ABB indicates to draw over  7.2 kW - the car indeed only 6.4 to 6.5. Have you checked your ABB internal information screen?

 

On this one, I did not question much the numbers I saw, just jogged it off as a conversion rate at the lower end with around 15% loss, which is not at all that unusual - Tesla's are in the same ballpark.

 

One more observation: You are correct that the AC wallcharger is nothing more than a fancy switch, but it is also limiting the power it will draw. It will not go over the nominal 7.4 kW - to protect the feed wiring. In other words - if you hook up a Taycan with a 22kW OBC, it will only pull 7.4 kW max.

 

 

[JBChiangRai]

7 hours ago, mistral53 said:

 

Interesting that my ABB indicates to draw over  7.2 kW - the car indeed only 6.4 to 6.5. Have you checked your ABB internal information screen?

 

On this one, I did not question much the numbers I saw, just jogged it off as a conversion rate at the lower end with around 15% loss, which is not at all that unusual - Tesla's are in the same ballpark.

 

One more observation: You are correct that the AC wallcharger is nothing more than a fancy switch, but it is also limiting the power it will draw. It will not go over the nominal 7.4 kW - to protect the feed wiring. In other words - if you hook up a Taycan with a 22kW OBC, it will only pull 7.4 kW max.

 

 

I think you will find it will pull up to 32 amps, if the voltage is lower than 240 volts then the wattage will be lower. Multiply 32amps by your voltage and that is the most you can draw. If your voltage is 220 then that’s about 7kw.

 

The wall box tells the car what is the max current it can deliver.  Max on single phase is 32 amps. If you are on solar or have an automatic voltage regulator and turn your voltage up to 240v then your car will charge faster.

 

240v is within tolerance for a 220v system.

[Gweiloman]

15 hours ago, JBChiangRai said:

 

Did you manage to get YT/YT Music working on the infotainment system?

Yes, but it’s not the normal one that you would download from Google Play store. I followed this video. 
 

Icons look like this

 

It also works through installing GBox

 

[Gweiloman]

15 hours ago, Bandersnatch said:

 

Anybody considered an Android Box which would give you wireless carplay and apps. There are 2 versions of the Carlinkit one with ambient light and one without. Then you choose Android 11 or 13 and then how much ROM and RAM you want. Best results would be to use your own data sim or you could use the hotspot from your phone. I'm still deciding.

 

https://www.carlinkit.com/tbox-plus

 

 

 

 

 

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/local-carlinkit-tbox-wireless-carplay-ai-box-android-13-wireless-android-auto-adapter-sim-wifi-gps-8128g-for-head-unit-with-carplay-i4817050852-s19985438938.html?

 

 

 

 

I have one of these carlink kits in my Haval as you can’t sideload apps. They work a treat. Just need to buy one of those annual SIM cards for about Thb 1,500/1,600.

[macahoom]

 

My final conclusion regarding heat from the glass roof:

 

Parked yesterday in full sun for about 15 minutes. I had the aircon on, the sun shade in position and I have supposedly fantastic, very expensive 80% film installed. It became so uncomfortable on the top of my head that I had to move and find somewhere else to park in the shade.

 

And no jokes about baldness. I have a full head of thick hair, thank you.

 

When the car is moving, there is no problem.

[JBChiangRai]

24 minutes ago, macahoom said:

 

My final conclusion regarding heat from the glass roof:

 

Parked yesterday in full sun for about 15 minutes. I had the aircon on, the sun shade in position and I have supposedly fantastic, very expensive 80% film installed. It became so uncomfortable on the top of my head that I had to move and find somewhere else to park in the shade.

 

And no jokes about baldness. I have a full head of thick hair, thank you.

 

When the car is moving, there is no problem.

 

Film on the inside is likely to make the roof panel hotter.

[JBChiangRai]

1 hour ago, Gweiloman said:

Yes, but it’s not the normal one that you would download from Google Play store. I followed this video. 
 

Icons look like this

 

It also works through installing GBox

 

 

Do you have link for where to get those (presumably modified) .APK files?

[macahoom]

10 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

 

Film on the inside is likely to make the roof panel hotter.

 

Yeh, that makes sense, I reluctantly suppose.

 

What about your wrap?

 

Done yet? Pics?

[JBChiangRai]

48 minutes ago, macahoom said:

 

Yeh, that makes sense, I reluctantly suppose.

 

What about your wrap?

 

Done yet? Pics?

 

It's in the shop being wrapped, it might not be ready till next Monday, it does have new gun metal finish alloy wheels on it with the original tyres, I have the old wheels in storage.

[macahoom]

8 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

it does have new gun metal finish alloy wheels on it

 

Aha! A bit of a boy racer, eh?

 

What about some go faster stripes?

 

You'll be telling me you're buying a Cyberster next!

Edited January 9 by macahoom

[mistral53]

11 hours ago, mistral53 said:

 

Interesting that my ABB indicates to draw over  7.2 kW - the car indeed only 6.4 to 6.5. Have you checked your ABB internal information screen?

 

On this one, I did not question much the numbers I saw, just jogged it off as a conversion rate at the lower end with around 15% loss, which is not at all that unusual - Tesla's are in the same ballpark.

 

One more observation: You are correct that the AC wallcharger is nothing more than a fancy switch, but it is also limiting the power it will draw. It will not go over the nominal 7.4 kW - to protect the feed wiring. In other words - if you hook up a Taycan with a 22kW OBC, it will only pull 7.4 kW max.

 

 

Screenshots:  ABB pulls around 7.3 kW, Seal stuffs 6.4 kW into the battery

 

It seems the charger is attached to the lowest voltage phase @229.5V - I wonder if you switch to a different phase with over 240V I could get a higher charge power.......

 

 

 

Edited January 9 by mistral53

[JBChiangRai]

25 minutes ago, macahoom said:

 

Aha! A bit of a boy racer, eh?

 

What about some go faster stripes?

 

You'll be telling me you're buying a Cyberster next!

 

ROFLPMP, I will skip the go faster stripes, and the jury is still out on the Cyberster, I am not 100% convinced I will go through on that, let's see what the price is.

[JBChiangRai]

1 hour ago, JBChiangRai said:

 

Film on the inside is likely to make the roof panel hotter.

 

Incidentally, if the roof panel wasn't tinted, film on the inside would not make it as hot as if it were tinted.

 

The reason being there is a reflective coating on the outside of the glass which reflects a lot of the sun, the panel being tinted will absorb a lot of what does get through and it will heat up.  A film on the inside will attempt to reflect what does get through and the roof panel being tinted will absorb a lot of that again.  The film on the inside may absorb some too and make the panel hotter though it will reduce the transmissible heat from the sun from hitting you.

 

I suspect the major problem is the roof panel heating up when the vehicle is stationary, when it's moving the wind across the top will cool it.

 

I haven't found it a problem, I think the trick is not to sit in the car if it's stationary in the sun and when you do get in, get driving ASAP.

[macahoom]

12 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

the jury is still out on the Cyberster, I am not 100% convinced I will go through on that, let's see what the price is.

 

I could be very wrong, but I have a feeling it will be cheaper than might be expected.

 

Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing your wrapped Seal.

[macahoom]

6 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

I think the trick is not to sit in the car if it's stationary in the sun

 

No doubt about it! As long as you do that, there is no problem.

Edited January 9 by macahoom

[JBChiangRai]

6 minutes ago, macahoom said:

 

I could be very wrong, but I have a feeling it will be cheaper than might be expected.

 

Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing your wrapped Seal.

 

He quoted me 34,000 baht to wrap it in Sub-Glacial Berry Pink (Alicar or Allcar IIRC) or 54,000 baht for another manufacturers Frozenberry (Vinyl Frog), he was finishing off wrapping an old Porsche Cayenne yesterday in the expensive Frozenberry, the cheaper one I ordered appears to be identical, possibly even a higher quality, to my eye comparing the rolls side by side, the cheaper one looks more glossy, it's PET as opposed to vinyl, whatever that means, he said it's shinier.

 

We have two wrapping companies here in Chiang Rai, this guy has a good reputation and gives a 2 year guarantee.  I used the other guy for a PPF wrap, and whilst he's a nice guy, it took him half a dozen visits to get it perfect.

 

[macahoom]

6 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

He quoted me 34,000 baht to wrap it

 

 

Wow! When you compare that to the price of window tint, it seems to be really cheap.

[Pib]

12 hours ago, mistral53 said:

 

Interesting that my ABB indicates to draw over  7.2 kW - the car indeed only 6.4 to 6.5. Have you checked your ABB internal information screen?

 

On this one, I did not question much the numbers I saw, just jogged it off as a conversion rate at the lower end with around 15% loss, which is not at all that unusual - Tesla's are in the same ballpark.

 

One more observation: You are correct that the AC wallcharger is nothing more than a fancy switch, but it is also limiting the power it will draw. It will not go over the nominal 7.4 kW - to protect the feed wiring. In other words - if you hook up a Taycan with a 22kW OBC, it will only pull 7.4 kW max.

 

 

I do not have an ABB charger; I have a BYD-provided ZHIDA  wallcharger which came with my Atto.   No menus/screens to look at with this charger....no app...this fancy light switch is activated on and off by waving a RFID card in front of it.

12 hours ago, mistral53 said:

 

 

 

And yes, although I used the "fancy wall switch" phrase a lot in my earlier post I also said it's also serving as a safety device to now allow more than a certain amount of amperage to be drawn.   Like if something goes wrong and the EV starts asking say 45A (or more) out of your 32A (nominal 7KW) wallcharger the charger will simply turn off charging like a light switch turning off a light.  And that fancy light switch/safety device will probably react faster than the 40A circuit breaker box right next to it.....and also faster than the 40A circuit breaker in your home main circuit panel if your charger goes to the main circuit plan versus maybe going to it's own separate electric meter like maybe a separate TOU meter. 

Quote

The Wallcharger itself is nothing more than a "fancy light switch" that either lets the AC amperage thru it to the EV or cuts it off.  Other than the Wallcharger telling the EV the max amperage it can allow thru it, like 30A, 16A, etc.) it's the EV that determines the exact amount of current being drawn....the wall charger is only serving as a "safety device, fancy light switch" to not allow more than a certain amount of amperage to be drawn.

 

 

Regarding a Taycan with 22KW or 11KW onboard charger, a 22KW or 11KW onboard charger is a 3 phase charger (vs single phase) and in order to receive that full 22KW wattage it needs to be fed by a 3 phase wallcharger.  A 3 phase 22KW wallcharger will feed approx 7.2KW on each of its three phases/lines (L1, L2, and L3) feeding into the EV which totals up to approx 22KW.   A 3 phase 11KW charger will feed approx 3.6KW on each of its three phases/lines into the EV which totals up to approx 11KW.     And as you said if you plug a single phase 7KW charger to a Taycan which has a 22KW or 11KW onboard charger the wallecharger charger only feeds 7KW via it's L1 line (as it does not have L2 and L3 lines) to the EV onboard charger.

 

Actually we shouldn't even be using the terms "wall charger, portable charger" because they are not really chargers as they are "Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment (EVSE)" according to EV charging standards/regulations.    All they really do is safely "supply" the AC voltage to the EV and do not change the AC voltage level, convert AC to DC, or anything like that....the EV onboard charger is the only charger in the setup...that's where the AC is converted to DC to charge the EV battery.  Wall or portable EV chargers (whoops, I mean EVSE) are simply "fancy light switches, fancy circuits breakers, may come with fancy apps and Wifi connection, etc....and the more expensive ones may allow you to select a certain max amps output like maybe having a 7.2KW/32A wallcharger but you need to hooked it up your home wiring which can only handle say 3.6KW/16A and want the wall charger to limit power down to 3.6KW max. 

 

 

Edited January 9 by Pib

[Pib]

1 hour ago, mistral53 said:

Screenshots:  ABB pulls around 7.3 kW, Seal stuffs 6.4 kW into the battery

 

It seems the charger is attached to the lowest voltage phase @229.5V - I wonder if you switch to a different phase with over 240V I could get a higher charge power.......

 

 

 

 

You "might" get a little bit based on the P=IE formula....but the Seal onboard charger and the standard communications between the EV and wallcharger may just keep the max charge level at 6.5KW.   Remember, it's the vehicles onboard charger that determines how many amps is being drawn from the wallcharger although the wallcharger will set a "max" that it will allow before cutting off all charging.   And the way that communications works it "typically" asking for specific amperage levels like please feed me 30A, feed me 16A, feed me 10A, etc., regardless of the voltage level of 220V, 230V, etc.

 

As long as the Seal onboard charger is receiving more than enough input voltage and amperage to power the onboard "rectification" process of converting the AC to DC then it may internally limit how much AC power is rectified to DC power keeping the max charging at 6.5KW.  

 

[mistral53]

33 minutes ago, Pib said:

 

You "might" get a little bit based on the P=IE formula....but the Seal onboard charger and the standard communications between the EV and wallcharger may just keep the max charge level at 6.5KW.   Remember, it's the vehicles onboard charger that determines how many amps is being drawn from the wallcharger although the wallcharger will set a "max" that it will allow before cutting off all charging.   And the way that communications works it "typically" asking for specific amperage levels like please feed me 30A, feed me 16A, feed me 10A, etc., regardless of the voltage level of 220V, 230V, etc.

 

As long as the Seal onboard charger is receiving more than enough input voltage and amperage to power the onboard "rectification" process of converting the AC to DC then it may internally limit how much AC power is rectified to DC power keeping the max charging at 6.5KW.  

 

 

You are right, but I think the OBC will max out at 7 kW - my wallbox is putting out a steady 7.5 kW, the car shows 6.6 to 6.7 kW going into the battery, with a surprisingly good efficiency.

[Pib]

2 hours ago, mistral53 said:

 

You are right, but I think the OBC will max out at 7 kW - my wallbox is putting out a steady 7.5 kW, the car shows 6.6 to 6.7 kW going into the battery, with a surprisingly good efficiency.

 

Did you change the input voltage? 

 

I see the ABB app shows 32A being allowed thru to the EV equating to 7.5KW power output (voltage not shown) in above picture, but your earlier post with an app picture also showing 32A being pushed but the output was only 7.3KW.  

[JBChiangRai]

3 hours ago, macahoom said:

 

 

Wow! When you compare that to the price of window tint, it seems to be really cheap.

 

I had some photochromic window film from China but in the end decided not to use it and I went with 3M 40% block in grey.  It was 12,000 baht for the whole car excluding roof.

 

Everything in Chiang Rai is usually cheaper.

[Andrew Dwyer]

I went to see the Sinjet guy in Bangkok to downgrade the cars system version so APK’s could be added.

So , he downgraded from 2310180.1 ( the latest version , including the OTA ) to 2307210.1 which is further back than just the OTA as I now have the ice cream van sound with no AVAS button which I didn’t have when picking up the car Nov 30th. Possibly the version  @macahoomhad when he received the car as it precedes @Bandersnatch’s

( this could be the reason you are not having success @JBChiangRai ).

The latest OTA popped up while driving back, so will try that soon .

 

Anyway, the downgrade was done via a usb and took around 30 minutes .

The guy knows his way around this stuff and downloaded pretty much all I asked for except for Charge Loma and PlugShare ( PlugShare I downloaded from the GBox app but had trouble opening due to a password error, will try again tomorrow )

 

Anyhoo, here’s the apps he loaded ( 12 ).

 

 

 

At home I managed to add Waze from my usb using the password GHY0613byd

 

They all worked fine, some are administrators tools and I will see if I can put them in a separate folder ( as iPhone does ).

 

Youtube, YouTube Music, Tik Tok, Brave and Waze.

 

 

 

 

 

 

All seem to stay loaded when i put car into Drive unlike the BYD browser and karaoke which will only run in position P .

Plugshare having difficulty loading but could be due to gps signal ( car in car port ).

 

Obviously i want to see all the apps still work after the OTA update, which tbh isn’t urgent except for Mr Whippy !! but I want to wait a couple of days as I might think of another app to upload.

 

As a bonus i got the old wallpaper back which i prefer to the mainly blue/purple options.

 

 

In summary, the guy has some insider information from a Chinese friend at BYD and this lead to him doing the Seal, and now Dolphin, rear view mirror/camera as his “ other “ job is selling electric unicycles out of his shop in Bang Na.

Tbh, I think he could have sold this sideloading as a separate enterprise especially as the Seal update has now quashed it. ( I did tip him as he did a great job ).

 

I will return in a couple of days to report back.

Edited January 9 by Andrew Dwyer

[macahoom]

1 hour ago, Andrew Dwyer said:

Possibly the version  @macahoomhad when he received the car as it precedes @Bandersnatch’s

 

How to tell if your version is the same, or earlier, than the one I had:

1) Your iTAC page will have "iTAC (Intelligence Torture Adaption Control)" instead of Torque.

2) You will have three hilariously loud pedestrian warning sounds.

 

And quite a few other things won't work or will be missing.

Edited January 9 by macahoom

[Andrew Dwyer]

5 minutes ago, macahoom said:

 

How to tell if your version is the same, or earlier, than the one I had:

1) Your iTAC page will have "iTAC (Intelligence Torture Adaption Control)" instead of Torque.

2) You will have three hilariously loud pedestrian warning sounds.

 

And quite a few other things won't work or will be missing.

1) Don’t forget I am a lowly Premium owner , we don’t have such luxuries !

2) Yup, it is surprisingly loud and attracts too much attention for my liking. !

 

Strangely, the warning sounds and the old wallpaper are the only things I have noticed, even the browser and karaoke that came with the OTA are still there !

Edited January 9 by Andrew Dwyer

[Gweiloman]

10 hours ago, JBChiangRai said:

 

Do you have link for where to get those (presumably modified) .APK files?

I remember now that I had difficulty finding the link for the files but managed to eventually. Sadly I don’t remember how. Fortunately however, I still have the zip file on my laptop (slightly over 1 GB). I don’t think I can upload it on AN but I can try to email it to you (and anyone else interested). Send me your email by PM if you like.

[Andrew Dwyer]

So, I added a few more apps from the Google Play Store in GBox app ( FB, Line, GMail, WhatsApp, Lazada, Messenger and Charge Loma ) 

As said before, these apps stay within GBox and I didn’t see any way to move the icons to the screen.

 

One thing i did learn through this exercise, and had been meaning to try, was as the screen is a big tablet maybe i can rearrange stuff.

Sure enough, the additional apps appear on an additional page, you can move them around in that page or to another page.

You can create folders by dragging one app on top of another then naming this folder whatever you want ( iPhone or iPad owners will be familiar ) so you can arrange the apps to your liking.

 

I rearranged the new apps in order of preference and put the “ tools “ app in a folder.

 

 

 

Very flexible !!

 

So, I decided to bite the bullet and did the OTA update, took just 10 minutes and included:

The AVAS button 

A new wallpaper 

The manual 

Byd store 

 

Well it all looks good, same as before.

Charge Loma and PlugShare maps don’t seem to want to open yet Waze and Google Maps open fine .

Youtube continues to play in drive mode and goes into Picture in Picture mode when put into reverse.

Youtube Music plays in the background when you open another app, navigation etc

 

One final test, after updating can I download any more apps from GBox ??

Downloaded PEA Volta and Lotus’s, PEA allows me to login and see my profile and credit etc but the map doesn’t seem to want to open.

Lotus’s works perfectly well.

 

Soo, will try the apps with location faults ( PEA, PlugShare and Charge Loma) out from under the carport but otherwise we are done !

 

Happy 😊, anyone want to use this service from Sinjet , now available for Seal, Dolphin and Atto 3 let me know and I will get contact details ( Bangkok ).

[Andrew Dwyer]

It does appear that I cannot have my Line account on another device so will delete from the car.

Might be the same with WhatsApp ?