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Posted

I thought about the following route

 

-well water to filter

-filter to tank

-tank to pump

-pump to house for use

 

Any advise or comments??

Posted

It depends on the water in the well. If it's heavily contaminated with iron, running it through a sand filter first will help a lot. That doesn't preclude you also running it through a charcoal filter after the sand filter  and/or using an undersink filter to eliminate all contaminates. It really depends on the well depth, how much space you have to erect a sand filter, the quality of the well water and, how clean you want the water from the tap.

 

 

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Posted

Thanks

 

Mike, all noted, the water is clear and does not smell but we still put it through a filter

 

impulse, forgot to mention but yes, for drinking it goes through a smaller separate RO system

Posted
2 minutes ago, jumbo said:

Thanks

 

Mike, all noted, the water is clear and does not smell but we still put it through a filter

 

impulse, forgot to mention but yes, for drinking it goes through a smaller separate RO system

On that note, the small apartment block in which I stay, is currently drawing water from a very deep well, however I'm not sure how clean it is, so I bought this little filter contraption to go on the sink tap, which is where I draw water from for drinking and cooking. Wasn't sure if it was working well until the owner tested it with a little device and it appears it is working extremely well, so I can recommend it. (my version is the 8000E model).

 

 

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Posted
5 hours ago, jumbo said:

-well water to filter

-filter to tank

-tank to pump

-pump to house for use

 

Between pump to house I also installed a whole house RO filter. Wasn't cheap tho.

 

Probably went overboard and still wouldn't drink the tap water.

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Posted
1 hour ago, The Cyclist said:

 

Between pump to house I also installed a whole house RO filter. Wasn't cheap tho.

 

Probably went overboard and still wouldn't drink the tap water.

We have an RO system in our current house, works perfectly... nobody died yet in 10 years use...

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Posted
7 hours ago, jumbo said:

I thought about the following route

 

-well water to filter

-filter to tank

-tank to pump

-pump to house for use

 

Any advise or comments??

Is your well a bore hole or is it a surface water well. It makes a difference how much filtering and what media to use

Bore hole water from deep down is normally clear of germs and other organics because of lack of spare oxygen in the water but there could be loads of minerals like calcium carbonate (CaCo2) or iron (Fe)

These minerals will give hard water and stain everything brown.

Surface water on the other hand, can contain loads of organic material and possibly fertilizer and pesticides. Not difficult to deal with using the right filter eg activated carbon, resin, 5 micron and i micron PP filters and, for drinking, reverse osmosis.

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Posted
2 hours ago, jumbo said:

Does anyone have an idea with how much watt power the water from the government comes out of the tap

 

Water is measured in psi or bar in Thailand along with the flow rate at litres per minute or hour, none of that converts to watts. Watts are an electrical term. Along with that there is no standard, or even usual, pressure/flow it depends on too many variables and goes from 0/0 to respectable.

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Posted

Consider two tanks ,  (By the way that's what we are doing at our gardening farm) where we have a small house with a bathroom for staying overnight). Right now we are watering straight from the well. 

One lager settling tank  for general use and watering ,and  a smaller tank that will be picking up overflow from  2/3 s of the way up of the larger tank . The larger tank would be filled by the well pump, and the smaller tank would have a small pump for feeding the house.

Mostly for taking a shower, or washing  dishes, We drink bottle water from a water cooler.  

We are always thinking of building at our farm which is only 5 minutes from the house and is nice and quiet, But we have aur house all set up the way we want it, and who wants to be starting over with a new house. 

Posted
10 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Water is measured in psi or bar in Thailand along with the flow rate at litres per minute or hour, none of that converts to watts. Watts are an electrical term. Along with that there is no standard, or even usual, pressure/flow it depends on too many variables and goes from 0/0 to respectable.

Clear. my mistake, I always think all power is measured in watt, 😄

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Posted
13 hours ago, Muhendis said:

Is your well a bore hole or is it a surface water well. It makes a difference how much filtering and what media to use

Bore hole water from deep down is normally clear of germs and other organics because of lack of spare oxygen in the water but there could be loads of minerals like calcium carbonate (CaCo2) or iron (Fe)

These minerals will give hard water and stain everything brown.

Surface water on the other hand, can contain loads of organic material and possibly fertilizer and pesticides. Not difficult to deal with using the right filter eg activated carbon, resin, 5 micron and i micron PP filters and, for drinking, reverse osmosis.

 bore hole 60 m

Posted
10 hours ago, sirineou said:

Consider two tanks ,  (By the way that's what we are doing at our gardening farm) where we have a small house with a bathroom for staying overnight). Right now we are watering straight from the well. 

One lager settling tank  for general use and watering ,and  a smaller tank that will be picking up overflow from  2/3 s of the way up of the larger tank . The larger tank would be filled by the well pump, and the smaller tank would have a small pump for feeding the house.

Mostly for taking a shower, or washing  dishes, We drink bottle water from a water cooler.  

We are always thinking of building at our farm which is only 5 minutes from the house and is nice and quiet, But we have aur house all set up the way we want it, and who wants to be starting over with a new house. 

Yeah that is a choice I understand, either a filter and one tank or multiple tanks....I use one set-up with tank and pump for garden and pond. The in subject mentioned is for household use

Posted
16 hours ago, jumbo said:

Mike, all noted, the water is clear and does not smell but we still put it through a filter

Have you tried to keep the water for a few days in a bottle, and check if there  is any deposit at the bottom after  that?

Posted

The universities usually have water testing facilities, failing that, the Amphur will know of somewhere, perhaps take a sample to them and get it tested, it will be cheap enough.

Posted
2 hours ago, jumbo said:

Clear. my mistake, I always think all power is measured in watt, 😄

No problem, there are numerous measurements of power depending on exactly what is being measured 

 

just to measure flow here are a selection of the available measurements 

 

kg/day 
 kg/h
kg/min
kg/s
Ib/day
Ib/h
Ib/min
Ib/s
ton/day
ton/h
ton/year
UK ton/day
UK ton/h
UK ton/year
US ton/day
US ton/h
US ton/year
_---------_
kmol/h
kmol/h
kmol/min
kmol/min|
kmol/s
kmol/s
Ibmol/h
Ibmol/h
Ibmol/min
Ibmol/min
Ibmol/s
Ibmol/s
mol/h mol/h
mol/min mol/min
mol/s mol/s
std ft (32°F,1 atm)/min
std ft (32°F,1 atm)/s
std ft? (60°F,1 atm)/h
std ft (60°F,1 atm)/min
std liter (0°C, 1 atm)/h
std ft? (60°F,1 atm)/min
std liter (0°C, 1 atm)/h
std liter (0°C,1 atm)/min std liter (0°C,1 atm)/min
std liter (0°C,1 atm)/s std liter (0°C,1 atm)/s
std liter (15.6°C, 1 atm)/h std liter (15.6°C,1 atm)/h
std liter (15.6°C, 1 atm)/min std liter (15.6°C,1 atm)/min
std liter (15.6°C, 1 atm)/s std liter (15.6°C,1 atm)/s
std m3 (0°C, 1 atm)/h
std m3 (0°C, 1 atm)/min
std m3 (0°C,1 atm)/s
std m3 (15.6°C, 1 atm)/h
std ms (15.6°C,1 atm)/min
std m3 (15.6°C,1 atm)/s
_-----------_
bbl/day
bbl/h
bbl/min
bbl/s
bbl/year
f†3/day
ft?/h
ft?/min
 

Posted

Have any of you guys seen or heard about a magnetic water softener in Thailand, they type you clip to your waterpipe??

Posted
22 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

No problem, there are numerous measurements of power depending on exactly what is being measured 
 

 

And all of them can be converted to, and stated in terms of watts.  It's a measure of any kind of energy (technically, the time rate of doing work, aka power), whether by electricity or any other means.

 

Example:  1 Horsepower = 745.7 watts.

 

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Posted
2 hours ago, jumbo said:

Have any of you guys seen or heard about a magnetic water softener in Thailand, they type you clip to your waterpipe??

I have come across these things and other high frequency electronic coils purported to reduce calcium deposits. They all have some sort of effect but only locally. By the time water gets to the tap, it's back to "normal". You might like to look at this which really works  but be warned. It will be cheaper to keep replacing your failed shower heads etc. than buy one of these.

 

Posted
5 hours ago, jumbo said:

Have any of you guys seen or heard about a magnetic water softener in Thailand, they type you clip to your waterpipe??

yeh but the ultrasound ones are better

Posted
6 hours ago, jumbo said:

Have any of you guys seen or heard about a magnetic water softener in Thailand, they type you clip to your waterpipe??

Yes sure. You can find all the scam devices available here

Posted
5 hours ago, impulse said:

 

And all of them can be converted to, and stated in terms of watts.  It's a measure of any kind of energy (technically, the time rate of doing work, aka power), whether by electricity or any other means.

 

Example:  1 Horsepower = 745.7 watts.

 

The physics definition is

The watt is a measure of the rate of energy transfer over a unit of time 

However nobody commonly uses watts to measure water or most other things that are not electrical in nature.

 

What is the energy unit and time unit in your question of watts? And how does that translate?

 

Here is an example my water pressure is 30 psi the flow is 10 litres per minute, both are easily understood. Please convert that into watts and explain the conversion.

 

So if you want an answer that is directly related to water use PSI and litres per minute/hour

Posted
2 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

The physics definition is

The watt is a measure of the rate of energy transfer over a unit of time 

However nobody commonly uses watts to measure water or most other things that are not electrical in nature.

 

What is the energy unit and time unit in your question of watts? And how does that translate?

 

Here is an example my water pressure is 30 psi the flow is 10 litres per minute, both are easily understood. Please convert that into watts and explain the conversion.

 

So if you want an answer that is directly related to water use PSI and litres per minute/hour

 

Fluid Horsepower calculation in USA units is (GPM x Ft of head x SG of the fluid)/ 3960

 

10L/M = 2.65GPM,  30 PSI becomes 30/.433 = 69.3 Ft of head, SG of tap water is 1.0

 

(2.65 x 69.3 x 1.0)/3960 = .0465 HP,   0.0465 x 746 = 34.6 watts

 

In the oilfield, where I was a downhole pump guy, the HP formula is (BFPDxFtxSG)/(135770 x efficiency). (Pump required HP is Fluid HP / the efficiency of the pump).  BFPD is Barrels of fluid per day. 

 

Except in the metric world, they don't specify anything in Horsepower.  They specify in kilowatts.

 

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Posted
On 11/2/2023 at 3:29 PM, jumbo said:

Does anyone have an idea with how much watt power the water from the government comes out of the tap

 

It is a complicated relationship. Water is normally measured in terms of pressure but power is required to generate that pressure so there is an indirect relationship. If you look at pumps the motor power increases with pressure/pipe size. 

The pump I used for my house is 150 watt and will generate mid range 160 kpa(about 23 psi) into a 1 inch pipe. What comes out the tap I don't know but reducing the pipe size at the outlet increases the pressure somewhat. The same pressure applied to the cross sectional area of 1" dia is being applied to a cross sectional area of 1/2" dia. Ignoring losses that would be an increase of about 4 times.

By comparison mains pressure is said to be in the range 40 - 60 psi.

 

Posted
On 11/2/2023 at 2:02 AM, jumbo said:

-well water to filter

-filter to tank

-tank to pump

-pump to house for use

 

Any advise or comments??

Will be be:

 

Well water to pump

> pump to filter(s), you might need more than one

> filters to storage tank

> storege tank to pressure-pump for tap water, if storage tank is not in a tower

> pressure pump to 5 micron dirt filer, before the house pipes

 

Preferably, have the water tested, so you know which filer or filters to use. If you have a high water consumption you will need large filters, which could be sandfilter, carbon filter and post-carbon filter. If your water consumption is moderate to low, you might be able to use small filter cartridges, which need weekly and/or monthly change; for example 5 micron cartridge for dirt, carbon cartridge for taste and smell, post carbon filter that could also be a 5 micron cartridge, and finally preferably a 0.5 micron ceramic cartridge. The 5 micron cartridges can be easily viewable in clear container, when the get dirty, it's time to change. The ceramic filter might last for several months.

 

Example of smaller filter cartridges, in the back a clear filter housing:

image.jpeg.93843a904bc42700cdabf95c935f9f2e.jpeg

 

Be aware that a storage tank can built up algae, so you should have a 5 small micron filter in a clear container between the pressure pump and the house pipes; change filter when it get dirty.

 

I have a storage tank on the attic, where the water if filtered before it reach the tank. In the tank is a small circulation pump – which operaates some 4 hours in 24-hours – that filers the circulated through a 5 micron cartridge, then through an UV-lamp (kills all bacteria), and finally mix the water with air – like an aquarium pump – to keep it fresh; the latter works like a small scale water aeration in a water work.

 

 

Posted
On 11/2/2023 at 8:07 AM, Mike Lister said:

If it's heavily contaminated with iron, running it through a sand filter first will help a lot.

Recommended treatment for iron infested water is O3 treatment. That's ozone to you and me. Ozone is generated by low power, high voltage electric arc.

In the case of removing iron from water O3 is a very active gas. When it comes into contact with the mineral iron in the water, it will turn it into metallic and very rusty iron which is easy to filter out. These O3 gadgets are readily obtainable from your local water filter specialist.

https://www.tank-o3.nl/en

I first came across O3 many many years ago when I was developing a static electricity discharge generator for the plastics industry. The O3 generated was a by product of the static discharge. It is dangerous and, if you inhale enough, will give you a very bad headache as it kills you. Not a problem in a well ventilated water treatment room.

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Posted
2 hours ago, impulse said:

34.6 watts

 

 

while for the oil and gas crowd that number maybe informative for the overwhelming majority of people it is of no immediate use and of no use at all if you don’t know the  airspeed velocity of an unladen African swallow specially if your mother was a hamster and your father smelt of elderberries 

 

 

 

5 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

 

Posted

How many pumps will you have - you mention the use of a tank and I'm assuming a bore hole well so would you be using 2 pumps? 

Also have you considered possible legionella from having water stored in a tank?

Posted
On 11/2/2023 at 1:56 PM, The Cyclist said:

 

Between pump to house I also installed a whole house RO filter. Wasn't cheap tho.

 

Probably went overboard and still wouldn't drink the tap water.

I've done exactly the same and as you say I wouldn't drink it. We have another system for drinking water.

I have town water to 10" paper filter to tank then pump to 20" carbon filter. The paper filter can be cleaned regularly but the carbon filter needs replacing and costs about 2000 baht a time.

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