PEA advises on cost-effective air conditioners amid Thai heat

matchar · April 25

1 hour ago, Dellboy218 said:

Furthermore, the PEA informs about the energy-saving advantages of modern inverter air conditioners since they cool rooms quickly and efficiently

An inverter aircon does not cool any quicker than a non inverter type. Equivalent size compressor units will or should cool the same although they may use different refrigerant gasses which may make a difference. Both types will use roughly the same electrical energy when running flat out, with similar sized compressor. Where an inverter can save electricity is on compessor start up. An induction motor as in the compressor can take around 7 times its running energy to start. So if your non inverter unit is set so that it is switching on and off constantly then it will be losing out to an inverter model. The inverter models don't have this problem. Inverters will also modulate up and down to maintain a steadier temperature rather than on/off.

I'm by no means an expert but I think while this is true, the startup spike is very brief so it's not as bad as it sounds and it won't contribute a significant amount of the overall energy usage.

The interesting question is when is it worth upgrading a perfectly working older fixed speed air conditioner to a newer inverter model?

I think in most cases it's worth keeping the old one until it dies.

GammaGlobulin · April 25

1 hour ago, AhFarangJa said:

Thailand,

What area, part of Thailand, experiences as many electric-power outages as you have described?

I have never heard of such a thing, except maybe high up in the mountain villages, where you cannot even get to during the Raining Season without a very capable 4-wheel drive.

What area in Thailand has this level of electrical supply reliability challenge?

Edited April 25 by GammaGlobulin

Bangkok Barry · April 25

2 hours ago, dinsdale said:

I hope you're right about a short time. This is the 10 day forecast where I am...

https://www.wunderground.com/forecast/th

From another post I made today. Relief is in sight. Maybe.

Dellboy218 · April 25

38 minutes ago, matchar said:

I'm by no means an expert but I think while this is true, the startup spike is very brief so it's not as bad as it sounds and it won't contribute a significant amount of the overall energy usage.

The interesting question is when is it worth upgrading a perfectly working older fixed speed air conditioner to a newer inverter model?

I think in most cases it's worth keeping the old one until it dies.

Perhaps not as brief as you think and it adds up. As I said when they are both running at full chat they take roughly the same energy. Whilst the old model is switching on and off the inverter model is modulating up and down not taking full energy when it doesn't have to. Generally I do not think it's worth changing until it goes faulty. I am no expert either but I did look after Industrial aircons along with everything else electrical on everything from the largest ships afloat down to survey ships for 45 years.

VocalNeal · April 25

2 minutes ago, Dellboy218 said:

Whilst the old model is switching on and off the inverter model is modulating up and down not taking full energy when it doesn't have to.

Neither is the old model when the compressor is off.🤔

Dellboy218 · April 25

Just now, VocalNeal said:

Neither is the old model when the compressor is off.🤔

That is very true!

GammaGlobulin · April 25

3 hours ago, Bday Prang said:

Beware salespeople trying to sell you a larger unit than you need. Bigger is not better when it comes to air

False.

Actually, bigger IS better when choosing an inverter AC unit.

I always buy a unit that surpasses my cooling capacity requirements, for average hot days, by 40 percent.

This way, I always have sufficient cooling capacity, even when we have long periods of very hot weather, such as we are now experiencing.

Also, with an inverter, even the units that are larger than I need, on certain days, will not cycle on and off, but continue to operate smoothly, and with very high efficiency.

Sorry.

But, wrong is wrong.

So, let us not spread FUD, without presenting the evidence.

Here is the Panasonic type consumer ACs that I buy...(THESE HAVE EFFICIENCY RATING ABOVE 23)

Please NOTE the Efficiency Rating of this Unit: 23.3 (SEER) which is only slightly different calculation than EER)

Bday Prang · April 25

34 minutes ago, GammaGlobulin said:

False.

Actually, bigger IS better when choosing an inverter AC unit.

I always buy a unit that surpasses my cooling capacity requirements, for average hot days, by 40 percent.

This way, I always have sufficient cooling capacity, even when we have long periods of very hot weather, such as we are now experiencing.

Also, with an inverter, even the units that are larger than I need, on certain days, will not cycle on and off, but continue to operate smoothly, and with very high efficiency.

Sorry.

But, wrong is wrong.

So, let us not spread FUD, without presenting the evidence.

Here is the Panasonic type consumer ACs that I buy...(THESE HAVE EFFICIENCY RATING ABOVE 23)

Please NOTE the Efficiency Rating of this Unit: 23.3 (SEER) which is only slightly different calculation than EER)

I am not spreading "FUD" you pompous buffoon, and I won't be providing any evidence, believe what you want, its no skin off my nose.

on second thoughts, sometimes people like you need to be told so chew on this..https://genhvac.com/bigger-isnt-better-comes-air-conditioners/#:~:text=Higher Utility Bills,it to shut off again.

or this https://www.oasiscooling.com/blog/why-an-oversized-air-conditioner-is-a-serious-problem/

but i do agree with your final sentence, wrong is indeed wrong

Edited April 25 by Bday Prang

GammaGlobulin · April 25

5 minutes ago, Bday Prang said:

I am not spreading "FUD" you pompous cretin, and I won't be providing any evidence, believe what you want, its no skin off my nose.

Sure.

I understand.

Ups to you.

Still, for the reasons that I have previously stated, and since weather conditions for the coming years are definitely unknown, it might be beneficial to prepare for hotter temperatures during the next decade. And, the compressor on the Panasonic machine has a warranty of exactly one decade.

In addition, the energy efficiency ratio of the Panasonic model I suggested, just for reference, is over 23.... Bingo!

Such a machine as this can pay for itself in saved energy costs, within just a few years, maybe two years, if you use your ACs as much as I do.

Also, it's better for our planet.

And, we all know that Tim Lenton of Exeter is now warning us of major Climate Tipping Points ahead...

Just sayin'.....

puchooay · April 25

Cold showers, menthol talcum powder, cold drinks, sit outside in the shade with a fan. Thai style.

At night, aircon at about 25c.

Sorted. Electric bills around 1500 a month.

AhFarangJa · April 25

2 hours ago, GammaGlobulin said:

What area, part of Thailand, experiences as many electric-power outages as you have described?

I have never heard of such a thing, except maybe high up in the mountain villages, where you cannot even get to during the Raining Season without a very capable 4-wheel drive.

What area in Thailand has this level of electrical supply reliability challenge?

Let us just say it is way North of Bangkok. Two years ago the power was off from 7 am until 8 pm for "preventative maintenance" to improve the system so it did not go out during thunderstorms. Four days later we had a storm.....guess what happened.......When enquiries were made the fault was in another part not upgraded..... total bull. The only improvement is that apart from when the drunks take out the poles it is normally re connected within 2 hours of calling them. Last month, they came out, fixed it, and it lasted 15 minutes before we had to call them again. It is just a part of life here I have got used to.

VocalNeal · April 25

GG has inadvertently stumbled onto something but for the wrong reason.

Inverter:- An electrical/electronic device for converting AC into DC. The DC is easier/used to allow for modulation of the compressor speed. A smaller capacity air condioner unit cannot modulate down if it is running at maximum heat load.

So if the compressor is going to be modulated down at normal heat load it needs to run at, maybe 70%. So yes an inverter equipped system needs to be larger than a conventional on/off unit. A side benefit from this is that when running at 100% a larger unit will initially cool the space faster.

So for say a small bedroom 12,000 BTU rather than a conventional 9,000 BTU.

GammaGlobulin · April 25

46 minutes ago, Bday Prang said:

I am not spreading "FUD" you pompous buffoon, and I won't be providing any evidence, believe what you want, its no skin off my nose.

on second thoughts, sometimes people like you need to be told so chew on this..https://genhvac.com/bigger-isnt-better-comes-air-conditioners/#:~:text=Higher Utility Bills,it to shut off again.

or this https://www.oasiscooling.com/blog/why-an-oversized-air-conditioner-is-a-serious-problem/

but i do agree with your final sentence, wrong is indeed wrong

Correct.

You are wrong.

a. The articles that you linked are not room ACs. They are central air units that feed air ducts throughout the house.

b. These articles do NOT mention the use of inverter systems, which is what I am discussing.

c. Who would buy an AC, these days, that was not an inverter-based AC? Maybe mostly idiots, that is who.

d. So, what you seem to not understand is that an AC using an inverter can operate with very high efficiency at high and low compressor speeds. Without an inverter, the AC compressor has only two modes: ON and OFF.

This causes loss of efficiency.

Also, when the compressor is on the OFF mode, then ALL dehumidification ceases. THIS is what those two articles you linked are referring to!

IF the AC relies on an inverter, the the compressor can operate at variable speeds. THIS MEANS THAT DEHUMIDIFICATION ...CONTINUES at all speeds.

e. I feel like a bafoon trying to explain the OBVIOUS to you.

f. CONCLUSION:

1. Buy only inverter ACs.

2. Buy larger capacity than you will need on most days. This will ensure that you will have sufficient cooling capacity to cool the rooms of your house sufficiently to stay cool in even the HOTTEST of weather. Also, sometimes, when we have more guests than we might usually expect, we will have extra cooling capacity in our ACs.

BIGGER IS BETTER for this simple easily-understood reason.

3. Do not worry that dehumidification will be a problem with a larger (BIGGER) AC unit: Why? The inverter will slow the speed of the compressor, as needed. This means that DEHUMIDIFICATON WILL continue, even when the compressor is running more slowly. This is NOT the case with a non-inverter system, which will STOP DEHUMIDIFICATION when the compressor cycles off, or on and off, continually.

Some people are just TOO OLD to keep up with the times.

Hoping nobody will fall into this category of being....

OVER THE HILL when it comes to everyday technology that we all ought to understand.

Any further questions: I will be happy to enlighten you concerning this important Topic.

ADDENDUM:

Just in case you STILL do not comprehend this simple concept...

1. With an inverter AC, a large AC can throttle back to "act like" a smaller machine. I guess you never learned about this important point.

2. This means that the compressor will NOT turn off unless the demand for cooling capacity falls below about 30 percent of the BTU maximum cooling capacity of the AC unit.

You should do a bit of research yourself to confirm this is true...maybe....

If you wish to confirm any of the above, just contact the AC manufacturer of your choice....

Edited April 25 by GammaGlobulin

GammaGlobulin · April 25

20 minutes ago, VocalNeal said:

GG has inadvertently stumbled onto something but for the wrong reason.

Inverter:- An electrical/electronic device for converting AC into DC. The DC is easier/used to allow for modulation of the compressor speed. A smaller capacity air condioner unit cannot modulate down if it is running at maximum heat load.

So if the compressor is going to be modulated down at normal heat load it needs to run at, maybe 70%. So yes an inverter equipped system needs to be larger than a conventional on/off unit. A side benefit from this is that when running at 100% a larger unit will initially cool the space faster.

So for say a small bedroom 12,000 BTU rather than a conventional 9,000 BTU.

When I stumble, it is never for the wrong reasons.

What you MUST ADMIT, Sir, is that the MAIN ADVANTAGE of an inverter type AC is that in most cases the compressor will continue to run, almost 100 percent of the time the AC is in use (hot season, plus when house is heated up in cool season or wet season). Hopefully, you will still credit me with enough intelligence to know when the compressor of my Panasonic AC are running, and not running.

The advantage of this is that when the compressor is running, then...dehumidification will continue.

With a non-inverter system, the compressor will cycle on and off.

When in the OFF mode, dehumidification ceases.

This results in wet air being blown into the room.

Also, this results in a musty smell, when the compressor shuts off, or cycles on and off, during the operation of those LOUSY GARBAGE non-inverter type ACs.

And, further, it is the ignorance of BLOCKheads which is the stumbling block that causes me the most stumbling in my life....

Edited April 25 by GammaGlobulin

stoutfella · April 25

15 hours ago, GammaGlobulin said:

So then...

PEA advises on cost-effective air conditioners BUT FORGETS to mention MOST IMPORTANT CONSIDERATION for buying a cost-effective AC?

a. No mention of EFFICIENCY

b. No mention of efficiency ratings

c. No mention of how to calculate the EER rating of an AC, just by checking capacity in BTU and Watts.

Therefore, this article and advice is completely USELESS.

I would NEVER buy an AC with an EER below 23.

I guess PEA was afraid to mention the EER rating because this is a ratio which requires the understanding of simple fractions.

So, better to pay through the nose for extra power to run an inefficient AC?

Such a shame.

Living in the modern world requires understanding third-grade arithmetic.

But I wonder if they can easily convert from BTU to kcal?

1 BTU =0.25 kcal

Ignorance is bliss...

Unless you are losing money due to it.

What's an EER?

GammaGlobulin · April 25

29 minutes ago, AhFarangJa said:

Let us just say it is way North of Bangkok. Two years ago the power was off from 7 am until 8 pm for "preventative maintenance" to improve the system so it did not go out during thunderstorms. Four days later we had a storm.....guess what happened.......When enquiries were made the fault was in another part not upgraded..... total bull. The only improvement is that apart from when the drunks take out the poles it is normally re connected within 2 hours of calling them. Last month, they came out, fixed it, and it lasted 15 minutes before we had to call them again. It is just a part of life here I have got used to.

An interesting life, for sure.

I might enjoy living there, maybe.

The only problem for me would be ensuring stable internet access with no downtime due to power outages.

Such a thing could be achieved, and may become more accessible as satellite-based internet offerings become more popular.

puchooay · April 25

1 minute ago, GammaGlobulin said:

An interesting life, for sure.

I might enjoy living there, maybe.

The only problem for me would be ensuring stable internet access with no downtime due to power outages.

Such a thing could be achieved, and may become more accessible as satellite-based internet offerings become more popular.

My router is plugged into a UPS. Laptop has battery life over 4+ hours.

No internet downtime.

GammaGlobulin · April 25

18 minutes ago, stoutfella said:

What's an EER?

EER: Energy Efficiency Ratio (or rating)

SEER: Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (or rating)

This is the most important factor to consider when purchasing a new AC machine.

The EER is calculated as follows:

EER is a measure of Cooling Output divided by energy input in Watts.

Please do not buy a unit with low EER.

You are just wasting your money.

Landlords often select low EER machines because they can make extra money by overcharging their guests.

Landlords like money.

They do not care too much about saving your money on your electric bill.

If they charge you Bt.8 per kilowatt-hour, and pay Bt.5 per hour...then....obviously, they will buy the least efficient machine they can find.

Low efficiency machines are generally cheaper, as well.

Do you know any landlords that will pay more just to save you money????

======

https://www.lghvacstory.com/hvacefficiency/

Sometimes, Apples are not Apples....

Edited April 25 by GammaGlobulin

Dellboy218 · April 25

1 hour ago, Bday Prang said:

I am not spreading "FUD" you pompous buffoon, and I won't be providing any evidence, believe what you want, its no skin off my nose.

on second thoughts, sometimes people like you need to be told so chew on this..https://genhvac.com/bigger-isnt-better-comes-air-conditioners/#:~:text=Higher Utility Bills,it to shut off again.

or this https://www.oasiscooling.com/blog/why-an-oversized-air-conditioner-is-a-serious-problem/

but i do agree with your final sentence, wrong is indeed wrong

I have had a look at the site you provided. I would rather go with getting a unit a little larger than too small. I don't like machinery running flat out for extended periods but thats just me. It does mention humidity and indeed many people say if it's too big it won't clear the humidity. To that I say "cobblers". Every aircon has an air dry function which also takes into account the humidity level which negates a lot of the problems mentioned. It also says wear and tear switching on and off too much. Perhaps it wouldn't be a problem if used differently, not a problem with inverter models of course. This might help explain:

https://learn.sensibo.com/b2c-blog/what-is-dry-mode-on-ac-explanation-of-its-purpose-and-benefits?utm_source=google_ads&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign={campaign.name}&utm_content={adset.name}&utm_term=&hsa_acc=7667843704&hsa_cam=21096387540&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw26KxBhBDEiwAu6KXt0Tlj6eZslNiOqDKeCemjgKARR_k0XdESL6n45ibCFVH1VcQ32j6KRoC7SoQAvD_BwE

GammaGlobulin · April 25

18 minutes ago, Dellboy218 said:

I have had a look at the site you provided. I would rather go with getting a unit a little larger than too small. I don't like machinery running flat out for extended periods but thats just me. It does mention humidity and indeed many people say if it's too big it won't clear the humidity. To that I say "cobblers". Every aircon has an air dry function which also takes into account the humidity level which negates a lot of the problems mentioned. It also says wear and tear switching on and off too much. Perhaps it wouldn't be a problem if used differently, not a problem with inverter models of course. This might help explain:

https://learn.sensibo.com/b2c-blog/what-is-dry-mode-on-ac-explanation-of-its-purpose-and-benefits?utm_source=google_ads&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign={campaign.name}&utm_content={adset.name}&utm_term=&hsa_acc=7667843704&hsa_cam=21096387540&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw26KxBhBDEiwAu6KXt0Tlj6eZslNiOqDKeCemjgKARR_k0XdESL6n45ibCFVH1VcQ32j6KRoC7SoQAvD_BwE

Dry Mode is meaningless.

Dry Mode just means that you have set the machine so that the compressor will run more slowly, and therefore will not cool the room as much.

You can achieve the same effect by keeping the AC in cool mode, and just selecting a higher temp on the thermostat setting.

Also, this DRY MODE setting is not really usable in colder climates such as in Taiwan during the cold months.

IF Dry Mode forces the compressor to continue to operating, you can reduce your room temp to down around 14 degrees C.

Why is this?

Dry mode will force the compressor to continue to operate, even though the compressor will often cycle off and on, in order to provide continued dehumidification.

This is OK in warmer climates.

But, it is not OK in cooler climates because, of course, when the compressor operates then room cooling will be the result.

For this reason, in places like Taiwan, it is better to use a dehumidifier during winter months, when there is high humidity in the air, and the ambient temps are fairly low.

FURTHERMORE:

Dry Mode does not work exactly the same on all machines.

For example, I have two different models of Panasonic inverter ACs.

a. If I set Dry Mode on machine A, then the compressor will operate even if the room temperature is very low, and lower than the temperature I set using the remote.

b. If I set Dry Mode on machine B, then the compressor will cease to operate when the room temperature falls below the temperature I set using the remote.

So you can plainly see that the Dry Mode setting of machine B does not really put the machine into "Dry Mode", but instead just keeps the compressor running until the room temperature falls below the set temperature. (This is NO DIFFERENT from the Cool Mode setting on machine B.)

Edited April 25 by GammaGlobulin

Dellboy218 · April 25

3 minutes ago, GammaGlobulin said:

Dry Mode is meaningless.

Dry Mode just means that you have set the machine so that the compressor will run more slowly, and will therefore will not cool the room as much.

You can achieve the same effect by keeping the AC in cool mode, and just selecting a higher temp on the thermostat setting.

Also, this DRY MODE setting is not really usable in colder climates such as in Taiwan during the cold months.

IF the Dry Mode continues to operate, you can reduce your room temp to down around 14 degrees C.

Why is this?

Dry mode will force the compressor to continue to operate, even though the compressor will often cycle off and on, in order to provide continued dehumidification.

This is OK in warmer climates.

But, it is not OK in cooler climates because, of course, when the compressor operates then room cooling will be the result.

For this reason, in places like Taiwan, it is better to use a dehumidifier during winter months, when there is high humidity in the air, and the ambient temps are fairly low.

But we are not in Taiwan, at least I am not. Where does Taiwan come into this discussion. It is not dry mode that is meaningless. You've got compressors slowing down and then switching on and off. Are we talking inverter or DOL?

PETERTHEEATER · April 25

20 hours ago, snoop1130 said:

Avoid switching off the air conditioner frequently, as this adds to power consumption.

Really? 😋

GammaGlobulin · April 25

31 minutes ago, Dellboy218 said:

But we are not in Taiwan, at least I am not. Where does Taiwan come into this discussion. It is not dry mode that is meaningless. You've got compressors slowing down and then switching on and off. Are we talking inverter or DOL?

I mentioned Taiwan ONLY as an example of a place in Asia where, during the winter months, the temperatures get low enough and to the point where the Dry Mode is of little value other than to reduce the room temperature lower than what most people would think is tolerable.

But for our purposes, we can choose CM in the winter months:

In Chiang Mai in the winter months: Temps during the Cold Season, during some years, can get quite cold for up to two months. And, when the temperature is this cool, most people in Thailand would not be able to accept having the compressors of their ACs running, and further cooling down the room/house. (In order to achieve dehumidification, the AC compressor MUST be running. And, running the compressor will cool the already cold room. Therefore, not acceptable for most users in the winter months, unless the Cool Season is especially warm.)

(I cannot believe I am explaining the obvious.)

Now, concerning the inverter-ACs and non-inverter ACs:

a. The Dry Mode on inverter ACs will cause the compressor to run slowly, providing dehumidification.

b. The Dry Mode on the non-inverter ACs, will cause the compressor to cycle ON and OFF. The sound of the compressor going from OFF mode to full ON mode can be very disconcerting. And, this is just one more reason not to choose this type of AC.

There is always the option to use a dehumidifier with an AC that is operating.

If you use a dehumidifier, the dehumidifier will produce dehumidification plus heat. And, in winter months during the Cool Season, this added heat output can help to warm the room while the Dry Mode of the AC is operating.

If you live in the mountains of Thailand, then during the Cool Season the temps will dip to what is typical in northern Taiwan. And, if you are there, then I would suggest that you use both a dehumidifier and also an inverter-AC running simultaneously, if you wish to lower the humidity to below 40 or 50 percent.

Obviously, all of the above applies ONLY if you have made the effort to seal the cracks around doors and windows of your room/house using a caulking gun, or other effective methods.

Edited April 25 by GammaGlobulin

Dellboy218 · April 25

2 minutes ago, GammaGlobulin said:

I mentioned Taiwan ONLY as an example of a place in Asia where, during the winter months, the temperatures get low enough and to the point where the Dry Mode is of little value other than to reduce the room temperature lower than what most people would think is tolerable.

But for our purposes, we can choose CM in the winter months:

In Chiang Mai in the winter months, The COLD Season, during some years, the temperature can get quite cold for up to two months. And, when the temperature is this cool, most people in Thailand would not be able to accept having the compressors of their ACs running, and further cooling down the room/house. (In order to achieve dehumidification, the AC compressor MUST be running. And, running the compressor will cool the already cold room. Therefore, not acceptable for most users in the winter months, unless the Cool Season is especially warm.)

Now, concerning the inverter-ACs and non-inverter ACs:

a. The Dry Mode on inverter ACs will cause the compressor to run slowly, providing dehumidification.

b. The Dry Mode on the non-inverter ACs, will cause the compressor to cycle ON and OFF. The sound of the compressor going from OFF mode to full ON mode can be very disconcerting. And, this is just one more reason not to choose this type of AC.

There is always the option to use a dehumidifier with an AC that is operating.

If you use a dehumidifier, the dehumidifier will produce dehumidification plus heat. And, in winter months during the Cool Season, this added heat output can help to warm the room while the Dry Mode of the AC is operating.

If you live in the mountains of Thailand, then during the Cool Season the temps will dip to what is typical in northern Taiwan. And, if you are there, then I would suggest that you use both a dehumidifier and also an inverter-AC running simultaneously, if you wish to lower the humidity to below 40 or 50 percent.

Obviously, all of the above applies ONLY if you have made the effort to seal the cracks around doors and windows of your room/house using a caulking gun, or methods.

Forgive me but I am straining to understand. Chiang Mai in the winter months has very low humidity, why on earth would you be running the aircon air dry? In the upcoming wet season it can be very hot and humid and I will be running mine as it does work without making it to cool.

The dry mode does not gorce the aircon to run slowly. That will be up to the programme in the PLC or whatever controller it used.

Of course the DOL compressor will cycle on and off just as in its cooling mode. I have old DOL aircons upstairs and I have to strain to hear the compressors cycling. but then I had concrete plinths built into the wall. So I don't get any noise.

Again why would you use a dehumidifier in the cool season. I've been here 35 years and I have never had the need for dehumidifiers in the cool season.

GammaGlobulin · April 25

12 minutes ago, Dellboy218 said:

Forgive me but I am straining to understand. Chiang Mai in the winter months has very low humidity, why on earth would you be running the aircon air dry? In the upcoming wet season it can be very hot and humid and I will be running mine as it does work without making it to cool.

The dry mode does not gorce the aircon to run slowly. That will be up to the programme in the PLC or whatever controller it used.

Of course the DOL compressor will cycle on and off just as in its cooling mode. I have old DOL aircons upstairs and I have to strain to hear the compressors cycling. but then I had concrete plinths built into the wall. So I don't get any noise.

Again why would you use a dehumidifier in the cool season. I've been here 35 years and I have never had the need for dehumidifiers in the cool season.

I just hope you will not pull a gut straining yourself.

But, here is data for December and other months in Chiang Mai, showing Relative Humidity.

As I say, in Chiang Mai, the humidity is quite high during the Cool Season and the Raining Season.

It is only during the HOT Season that the RH actually dips appreciably.

https://wanderlog.com/weather/19/12/chiang-mai-weather-in-december#:~:text=How humid is it in,humid in March at 45%.

During the winter months, mold often forms on leather products and on bathroom tile, due to high humidity in the cool season in Thailand.

So, if you visit during these months, you can sometimes expect this to be the case.

Edited April 25 by GammaGlobulin

VocalNeal · April 25

2 hours ago, VocalNeal said:

Inverter:- An electrical/electronic device for converting AC into DC. The DC is easier/used to allow for modulation of the compressor speed. A smaller capacity air condioner unit cannot modulate down if it is running at maximum heat load.

Just realized I made a gaff in my explanation. The controls obviously TRANSFORM the AC to DC to power the control circuits and then the INVERTER converts the DC back to AC to run the compressor.

My wife just showed me a new thing where the air conditioner runs on solar. I said good except we only use ours at night. She looked a bit confused.

GammaGlobulin · April 25

18 minutes ago, Dellboy218 said:

The dry mode does not gorce the aircon to run slowly.

FALSE:

Dellboy218 · April 25

3 minutes ago, GammaGlobulin said:

FALSE:

FALSE

The dry mode does not gorce the aircon to run slowly. That will be up to the programme in the PLC or whatever controller it used.

I Also said it was up to the controlling device that was used. It is that that sets the working conditions.

You can bring all the graphs you want but ask how many people run an aircon or dehumidifier in the winter months. When it's cool it is not noticeable. In the hot summer months it certainly is.

Perhaps you should contact all the aircon makers and tell them their air dry mode is meaningless! I have always found it to be very effective. Perhaps you should try it.

I have lived in this same house for 35 years and have never had mold on anything. I also have a house the other side of Ubon, I don't remember mold there either. Perhaps if one lived in the forest your copy and paste might be true.

GammaGlobulin · April 25

2 minutes ago, Dellboy218 said:

You can bring all the graphs you want but ask how many people run an aircon or dehumidifier in the winter months.

a. You are now saying that graphs of valid data are not informative to this discussion?

b. You are implying that there are not many people in Thailand and elsewhere in Asia who run dehumidifiers in the winter months?

Truly?

Dellboy218 · April 25

5 minutes ago, GammaGlobulin said:

a. You are now saying that graphs of valid data are not informative to this discussion?

b. You are implying that there are not many people in Thailand and elsewhere in Asia who run dehumidifiers in the winter months?

Truly?

FALSE

I believe I was talking about me. Did I mention any one else?

What you did say was that the airdry function found on just about every aircon is meaningless.

Now perhaps you can bring graphs and reviews to to prove your hypothesis.

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