Morakot Posted July 17 Posted July 17 (edited) Could some metal worker/ welder please advise me? I had an old sliding gate replaced with a new one. The company suggested to weld a new bottom rail on top of the old rail, which I thought was a reasonable idea. However I assumed they would do a continuous seam, welding these two rails together and not just tack them. The top of the new rail is now slightly more than one inch (2.54 cm) above floor level and the tacks in the centre are about 30 cm apart and at side about 5 cm apart. Most tacks appear to be done from either one or the other side. Will this be sufficiently durable for a modern car to drive over it twice a day? Pictures below for further details of the fabrication. Edited July 17 by Morakot
Popular Post stubuzz Posted July 17 Popular Post Posted July 17 (edited) 38 minutes ago, Morakot said: Will this be sufficiently durable for a modern car to drive over it twice a day? No. This will fail. Welded 1 inch in every 4 would be ideal in the areas to be driven over. Edit. Is that stainless? If so, not a great idea to weld dissimilar metals without the correct filler rod, which, i am sure they did not use. Edited July 17 by stubuzz 2 2
stubuzz Posted July 17 Posted July 17 41 minutes ago, Morakot said: The company suggested to weld a new bottom rail on top of the old rail, which I thought was a reasonable idea. However I assumed they would do a continuous seam, welding these two rails together and not just tack them. To save them time and work. 1
Alan alpine Posted July 18 Posted July 18 12 hours ago, stubuzz said: No. This will fail. Welded 1 inch in every 4 would be ideal in the areas to be driven over. Edit. Is that stainless? If so, not a great idea to weld dissimilar metals without the correct filler rod, which, i am sure they did not use. Agree 12 hours ago, stubuzz said: No. This will fail. Welded 1 inch in every 4 would be ideal in the areas to be driven over. Edit. Is that stainless? If so, not a great idea to weld dissimilar metals without the correct filler rod, which, i am sure they did not use. Agree with you on that 2
sometimewoodworker Posted July 18 Posted July 18 14 hours ago, stubuzz said: Edit. Is that stainless? If so, not a great idea to weld dissimilar metals without the correct filler rod, which, i am sure they did not use. I have no idea why you make that assumption. Multiple filler rods are widely available 15 hours ago, Morakot said: However I assumed they would do a continuous seam Incorrect assumption. It would not have been a good job if the did 15 hours ago, Morakot said: Will this be sufficiently durable for a modern car to drive over it twice a day? No. The tacks are poorly attached on many of the pictures. They should have been followed by proper short welds generally tacks are just to prevent movement until the correct weld is performed
AgMech Cowboy Posted July 18 Posted July 18 16 hours ago, stubuzz said: Is that stainless? If so, not a great idea to weld dissimilar metals without the correct filler rod, which, i am sure they did not use. I think you're right, which is why they just tack welded it instead of a full bead. It looks to me the wrong metal and possible the wrong amperage, too. I've no solution (I don't know any welders in Thailand anymore) for your problem, but I see it as a problem just as stubuzz did.
Morakot Posted July 18 Author Posted July 18 21 hours ago, stubuzz said: Is that stainless? If so, not a great idea to weld dissimilar metals without the correct filler rod Presumably it is stainless. The gate frame is 304. No idea if they used the correct filler.
Morakot Posted July 18 Author Posted July 18 6 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said: Incorrect assumption. It would not have been a good job if the did My knowledge of welding is having watched a few YouTube videos 'For entertainment purposes only'. 😆 Why would a continuous weld be not good here?
Morakot Posted July 18 Author Posted July 18 (edited) The good news my friends --as I've only paid for material up front-- they are coming back to complete the job! Edited July 18 by Morakot 1
sometimewoodworker Posted July 18 Posted July 18 4 hours ago, Morakot said: My knowledge of welding is having watched a few YouTube videos 'For entertainment purposes only'. 😆 Why would a continuous weld be not good here? The problem with a continuous weld is the serious amount of heat that will be transferred and that will warp the rods, that combined with the fact that there is no benefit in having a 250,000 PSI weld if all you need is a 5,000 PSI weld 1
sometimewoodworker Posted July 18 Posted July 18 3 hours ago, itsari said: Better to take up the old rail and cement in the new rail. There is no guarantee that doing that will a better result, or even one half as good.
itsari Posted July 18 Posted July 18 4 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said: There is no guarantee that doing that will a better result, or even one half as good. Far better result if the gate is sliding low as possible.
Ralf001 Posted July 18 Posted July 18 Yeah as many have said... those tacks no good. If it were me I would stich weld 30/150/30/150/30/150/ etc etc.
rocketboy2 Posted July 20 Posted July 20 Get the lazy sods back and tell them to finish the job off. Not hard to do for them.
thaibeachlovers Posted July 21 Posted July 21 On 7/18/2024 at 1:24 AM, Morakot said: I had an old sliding gate replaced with a new one. The company suggested to weld a new bottom rail on top of the old rail, which I thought was a reasonable idea. However I assumed they would do a continuous seam, welding these two rails together and not just tack them. The top of the new rail is now slightly more than one inch (2.54 cm) above floor level and the tacks in the centre are about 30 cm apart and at side about 5 cm apart. Most tacks appear to be done from either one or the other side. Will this be sufficiently durable for a modern car to drive over it twice a day? However I assumed they would do a continuous seam, welding these two rails together and not just tack them. IMO not good practice to do a continuous weld that long. Has to be proper welds though, not just tacks. Will this be sufficiently durable for a modern car to drive over it twice a day? If it was my gate I'd put wood strips slightly higher than the rail either side to take the car weight. Secured to the floor of course.
thaibeachlovers Posted July 21 Posted July 21 On 7/18/2024 at 1:24 AM, Morakot said: I had an old sliding gate replaced with a new one. The company suggested to weld a new bottom rail on top of the old rail, which I thought was a reasonable idea. However I assumed they would do a continuous seam, welding these two rails together and not just tack them. The top of the new rail is now slightly more than one inch (2.54 cm) above floor level and the tacks in the centre are about 30 cm apart and at side about 5 cm apart. Most tacks appear to be done from either one or the other side. Will this be sufficiently durable for a modern car to drive over it twice a day? However I assumed they would do a continuous seam, welding these two rails together and not just tack them. IMO not good practice to do a continuous weld that long. Has to be proper welds though, not just tacks. Will this be sufficiently durable for a modern car to drive over it twice a day? If it was my gate I'd put wood strips slightly higher than the rail either side to take the car weight. Secured to the floor of course.
thaibeachlovers Posted July 21 Posted July 21 27 minutes ago, rocketboy2 said: Get the lazy sods back and tell them to finish the job off. Not hard to do for them. Someone didn't read all the posts! 1
thaibeachlovers Posted July 21 Posted July 21 (edited) On 7/18/2024 at 6:11 PM, AgMech Cowboy said: I think you're right, which is why they just tack welded it instead of a full bead. It looks to me the wrong metal and possible the wrong amperage, too. I've no solution (I don't know any welders in Thailand anymore) for your problem, but I see it as a problem just as stubuzz did. My wife got a company to put a new gate on the carport. It fell off the next day as they didn't clean the steel and the tack weld on the hinge fell off. Luckily I can weld, so she borrowed a welder and I re did all the welds properly. Not sure if DIY is the solution to the OP's problem. Does take a while to learn to weld properly. Edited July 21 by thaibeachlovers 1
rocketboy2 Posted July 21 Posted July 21 You can tell the people who did welding for a living and those who are DIY experts. Good day. 1
Dante99 Posted July 21 Posted July 21 19 minutes ago, thaibeachlovers said: If it was my gate I'd put wood strips slightly higher than the rail either side to take the car weight. Secured to the floor of course. Not necessary. Really quite overboard. Rail installed for 35 years no problem. Typical installation. 1
DrukenMallardy Posted July 22 Posted July 22 your contractors clearly don't know how to weld.......... might as well just pick up a cheap MIG machine and do it yourself. https://www.lazada.co.th/products/kovet-3-migmaalift-tig-mig-160s-1-i5000222243.html?spm=a2o4m.searchlist.list.28.15447a24rZTywy
sometimewoodworker Posted July 23 Posted July 23 On 7/22/2024 at 11:41 AM, DrukenMallardy said: might as well just pick up a cheap MIG machine and do it yourself. You need TIG for most SS welding, though gas MIG is certainly possible but stick is rather difficult
DrukenMallardy Posted August 19 Posted August 19 gas MIG is pretty convenient these days for stainelss steel. just use flux-core wire with gas, pretty cheap these days too. https://www.lazada.co.th/products/mig-kovet-e308lt1-1-08-mm-1-kg-i4778906838-s19721474636.html?from_gmc=1&fl_tag=1&exlaz=d_1:mm_267901075_123352851_2082402906::12:21408809930!163930583436!!!aud-2190252777243:pla-2296299443258!c!2296299443258!19721474636!533636006!!!Cj0KCQjwt4a2BhD6ARIsALgH7DrG6-i8ku8rcontXaXn_H4C45oN9pa55_M576zLoQoQh0odv0k-qoEaAs6YEALw_wcB!0AAAAADxEOcb9CGkyR4O2BUztyeWaZyNYO&is_monet=1&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt4a2BhD6ARIsALgH7DrG6-i8ku8rcontXaXn_H4C45oN9pa55_M576zLoQoQh0odv0k-qoEaAs6YEALw_wcB
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