Ground Clearance And Lay Turf (Grass)

[CharlieH]

Anyone know of a shop/team that can clear some ground and lay Grass turf ? (Phetchabun area)

[nam-thip]

Not an easy one in your area but i'd raise the same question to a groundsman at the nearest golf course or find a garden centre that sells turf and DIY the job.

Here is some information from a forum post that i saved which might help.

I'm not an expert on lawns, and I hope that others here can give you some more details on the varieties that are available, but here's my take, based on growing ya-malaysia and ya-manila.

Ya Manila is the most common and cheapest, but more difficult to keep looking good long term, and a perfectionist may not like the way it grows slightly "clumpy" as it grows out and looks bad for a couple of days after mowing. Ya Nippun I've had no direct experience with but was just recently told by a friend that it is better and less maintenance long term and highly worth the little extra price. Ya Malaysia is my favorite, I really like the tropical look and greener color, and easiest to take care of, can take shade, most pests and ants don't go there. Some people say it can't take sun, but I believe that being a broadleaf it transpires and drys out faster and depends on adequate watering. It squeezes out most weeds and can be planted with plugs (4"-6" squares) or solid sod. I plugged some on about 18" centers into a Ya Manila lawn and the Ya Malaysia completely took over in six months, I just plugged some more two months ago and it is in process of taking over a new area. I'm doing this because my trees are growing and shading more of the yard, so I think the ya malaysia will do better with the shade.

The ya manila is soft and fine to play on, but I think the ya malaysia is softer and has a cooler feel. Both are fine and my family and pets really enjoy the lawn to look at and to play or relax on. Mow high for healthier grass, and mow frequently so as to not take off more than a third of the blade. I set my mower on the highest wheel setting, about 3 inches. I mow religiously once a week. I fertilize every 6 weeks to 2 months and alternate with urea, ammonium sulphate and 15-15-15. I would just use the 3X15 every time as I think it gets better results, but it is more expensive. This is contrary to what many people say that grass only needs nitrogen. It surely uses more nitrogen, but I don't buy that it only needs N fertilizer based on my experience. An alternative to pui chemi is manure, but it has to be finely ground to sift into a tight thatch, otherwise it will sit on top. Spray of manure or compost tea would be good if available. Preparation before planting is everything. Adequate soil organic matter incorporation and loamy soil texture base is all-important. Poorly prepared soil bed and clay base will have grass looking good for awhile but will begin decline soon and be impossible to maintain well in dry season. The only lawn that I've seen here that is not on a fertilization schedule and looks like it is, was planted on a deep topsoil base and not the native soil or construction fill. This is the key, without good soil base you will have an uphill battle to keep it looking good. And of course an irrigation program essential. Planting now through the colder months will be a challenge to get good fast growth. The hot dry season March - April will see good growth of you water frequently. The easiest time to get good establishment of your lawn is to plant in May at the beginning of the rainy season. Even then you need to water if there are extended dry periods (more than 2 or 3 days).

Pest and disease control are to be considered. I know some people who don't do anything and their lawns look reasonably good. I had grubs feeding on the roots of the ya manila which caused dead patches. I watched the birds feeding in mass and hoped that they would control the pest, but after a month or so the bugs were winning and the grass was looking worse, so I started a regular 'least toxic' pesticide application program with bifenthrin and immidacloprid.

Now the grass is back looking very healthy.

[CharlieH]

Not an easy one in your area but i'd raise the same question to a groundsman at the nearest golf course or find a garden centre that sells turf and DIY the job.

Here is some information from a forum post that i saved which might help.

I'm not an expert on lawns, and I hope that others here can give you some more details on the varieties that are available, but here's my take, based on growing ya-malaysia and ya-manila.

Ya Manila is the most common and cheapest, but more difficult to keep looking good long term, and a perfectionist may not like the way it grows slightly "clumpy" as it grows out and looks bad for a couple of days after mowing. Ya Nippun I've had no direct experience with but was just recently told by a friend that it is better and less maintenance long term and highly worth the little extra price. Ya Malaysia is my favorite, I really like the tropical look and greener color, and easiest to take care of, can take shade, most pests and ants don't go there. Some people say it can't take sun, but I believe that being a broadleaf it transpires and drys out faster and depends on adequate watering. It squeezes out most weeds and can be planted with plugs (4"-6" squares) or solid sod. I plugged some on about 18" centers into a Ya Manila lawn and the Ya Malaysia completely took over in six months, I just plugged some more two months ago and it is in process of taking over a new area. I'm doing this because my trees are growing and shading more of the yard, so I think the ya malaysia will do better with the shade.

The ya manila is soft and fine to play on, but I think the ya malaysia is softer and has a cooler feel. Both are fine and my family and pets really enjoy the lawn to look at and to play or relax on. Mow high for healthier grass, and mow frequently so as to not take off more than a third of the blade. I set my mower on the highest wheel setting, about 3 inches. I mow religiously once a week. I fertilize every 6 weeks to 2 months and alternate with urea, ammonium sulphate and 15-15-15. I would just use the 3X15 every time as I think it gets better results, but it is more expensive. This is contrary to what many people say that grass only needs nitrogen. It surely uses more nitrogen, but I don't buy that it only needs N fertilizer based on my experience. An alternative to pui chemi is manure, but it has to be finely ground to sift into a tight thatch, otherwise it will sit on top. Spray of manure or compost tea would be good if available. Preparation before planting is everything. Adequate soil organic matter incorporation and loamy soil texture base is all-important. Poorly prepared soil bed and clay base will have grass looking good for awhile but will begin decline soon and be impossible to maintain well in dry season. The only lawn that I've seen here that is not on a fertilization schedule and looks like it is, was planted on a deep topsoil base and not the native soil or construction fill. This is the key, without good soil base you will have an uphill battle to keep it looking good. And of course an irrigation program essential. Planting now through the colder months will be a challenge to get good fast growth. The hot dry season March - April will see good growth of you water frequently. The easiest time to get good establishment of your lawn is to plant in May at the beginning of the rainy season. Even then you need to water if there are extended dry periods (more than 2 or 3 days).

Pest and disease control are to be considered. I know some people who don't do anything and their lawns look reasonably good. I had grubs feeding on the roots of the ya manila which caused dead patches. I watched the birds feeding in mass and hoped that they would control the pest, but after a month or so the bugs were winning and the grass was looking worse, so I started a regular 'least toxic' pesticide application program with bifenthrin and immidacloprid.

Now the grass is back looking very healthy.

Thanks for your input and taking the time to reply.