Ceiling fan speed switch chain broken

[steveolevi]

Just tried to switch the ceiling fan to a lower speed and the chain came out of the housing! there is a light kit beneath the fan motor and on inspection I can see that there is indeed a very small plastic switch that the chain goes into inside the wire housing beneath the motor. The switch is an odd shape something resembling a tape measure with the chain coming out where the tape would come out. The plastic switch extends through the housing to the outside and there a metal threaded cowl screws on and the chain droops through this for the operator to pull.

I cannot attach the severed chain to the switch because it broke inside the switch. I can remove the switch in order to replace it but where in Chiang Mai am I going to find a new switch??

What other options? I thought about shorting the wires inside the switch, but then it will always be on high. Another option would be to install a rheostat type switch at the wall controling juice to the fan, but what about the light kit beneath the fan motor?

[sirchai]

What about buying a new one? Ain't expensive at all. -

Edited April 18, 2014 by sirchai

[wayned]

Home Pro has them I've replaced many on my 7 ceiling fans over the past 15 years. Turn off the power to the fan. Gain access toi the switch. The wires are pressure latched into the switch so you will neeed a instrument to insert into the socket to release the pressure, I use a jewler's screwdriver. Remove the old switch and reverse the process. Easy!

Edited April 18, 2014 by wayned

[RichCor]

Are you any good at rewiring electrical appliances, or replacing things like internal switches?

If so, then find the Make/Model and look up the manufacturer online. Or look at the part and search for a part no. then order online.

Was it purely an ON/OFF switch (that can be retrofitted with another ON/OFF switch), or a combo OFF/LOW/MED/HI Speed switch?

[PETERTHEEATER]

Talk about coincidence; two of my fan chains broke yesterday and both inside the switch operating mechanism (OM), I found the website on line and the Part Number of the Switch and e-mailed them for spares and cost but no response even though their website is in Thai and English.

So, I removed the cup at the base of the fan (three screws) for access (POWER OFF AT THE BOARD), unscrewed the ferrule to be be able to pull the switch assembly down and with a small screwdriver released the two plastic tabs securing the operating mechanism to the switch. The chain operated part comes off as a separate module.

Taking that to the workbench you will see that a square section shaft protrudes from the OM it is this that engages the switch contact module. The OM has a cover locked by two plastic tabs and I removed this carefully using a small screwdriver to reveal a torsion spring and one-way ratchet to which was clipped the (now) broken section of chain. Used needle nose pliers to unclip the chain and feed in a new chain (from Home Pro).

The trick bit is that for the one way ratchet to get a full throw, before reassembly you need to hold the torsion spring in position and wind the chain to the left from 3 o'clock as it enters the OM around the spring to the 7 o'clock position and then replace the cover ensuring that the leg at each end of the spring is held by the plastic tabs, one on the OM cover and one on the OM base. Once the cover is on check the OM operation by pulling gently on the chain when the switch should click around once and lock. It would have been helpful if the exit ferrule was a curved tube. As it is now the angle of the chain as it exits horizontally from the ferrule is too acute and each pull of the switch chain results in stress on the same part of the chain.

Reattach the OM to the switch inside the fan.

Word of caution. When removing the OM from the Switch, keep the Switch facing upwards in case the actual spring contacts fall out.

I now have another fan which is more of a challenge because it also has a four lamp cluster and the switch mechanism is slightly different.

[NanLaew]

I moved into an older house several years ago that had several of these fan speed and light switches that were broken. I bought replacement switches in the US as they weren't available anywhere in Thailand at the time. Not sure if they are available locally now.

[sirchai]

Home Pro has them I've replaced many on my 7 ceiling fans over the past 15 years. Turn off the power to the fan. Gain access toi the switch. The wires are pressure latched into the switch so you will neeed a instrument to insert into the socket to release the pressure, I use a jewler's screwdriver. Remove the old switch and reverse the process. Easy!

And don't forget to let your wife check, if the electricity is really off. If she's not flattered, then it's still hot.

Edited April 18, 2014 by sirchai

[sirchai]

I moved into an older house several years ago that had several of these fan speed and light switches that were broken. I bought replacement switches in the US as they weren't available anywhere in Thailand at the time. Not sure if they are available locally now.

Hope you didn't fly to the US just because of them. Well, there're people and people. You never know.

[Crossy]

Great stuff chaps, how about some photos next time it breaks

Meanwhile, be aware that these switches often contain what is known in engineering circles as a "ping f--kit", it goes "ping" and you say "f--kit"

That would be "ping frikit" of course

[PETERTHEEATER]

According to Post 3 Home Pro stocked spare switches but my branch had only the chains. Since it is usually the chain inside the Operating Mechanism that breaks it is not too difficult to repair. To avoid disconnecting the wiring I did mine in situ so you need a trusty set of steps and a headlight.

I will take pics when I tackle the fan/light combo.

Unsuprisingly the actual Switch/Ratchet combo are made in China although the Fan Assembly as a unit are made in Thailand.

[Saradoc1972]

A rheostat is the last thing you want to try here. That is a sliding resistance switch that is not going to cut it here.

With normal ventilators, the speed is regulated by a switch that will connect or disconnect several portions of the coil turning the static magnets in the rotor.

I.e. the motor consists of two or three coils that are actuated independently like:

- one third of the coil gets electricity if the switch is in that position for "low",

- that portion is switched off and the other two thirds of the coils are switched on for "medium"

- both parts of the coils are switched on when the switch connects both "out" contacs in this example for "full power"

A rheostat might work on its higher settings but you'd need a big one as it will obviously turn the the current through it's resistor into heat.

On lower settings, the current remaining to to create the electric field used to rotate the motor might not suffice to get it started, so it would emitt a low humming noise until it smokes off.

Or the rheostat smokes off to protect the ventilator. In any case, don't try it for safety reasons.

There are switches on the market, mostly wall mounted, that will regulated the motor's power by means of pulse-width-modulation, obviously much more expensive than rheostats.

(I've got one spare and you could have it for free, but I suppose you're not in Germany). Those will mostly be part of an in-wall installation. with a couple of extra wires to get the current from the ventilator and back into it after the lighting part.

In the end, if you cannot replace the switch inside the casing, you'd have to wiggle your way back up through the pole the ventilatior is fastened with to the ceiling with several wires and lead those along the ceiling to a convenient location one the wall.

Cut to the chase: buy a new one, end of story.

They tend to last only some three years anyway before they get noisy unless they are expensive ones.Westinghouse makes nice heavy ones, should set you back 150 $ or something.

[peterb17]

If you rent the house- get the landlord to fix it.

Otherwise a new fan costs very little- if you buy from one of the big stores they will come along and install it. Maybe one with a remote is a good idea.

I cannot quite get to grips with trying to repair old electrical goods( ps always give away any old unwanted equipment / furniture - anything- there will be a family who appreciate it and can probably get it fixed very easily)

[shaurene]

There must be a little Thai repair shop there some where. The will charge you about 100bt.

[jacko45k]

What about buying a new one? Ain't expensive at all. -

Yes, I suggest one with a remote.

[ronthai]

You broke, you pay NEW

[kaveh]

you can easily use a "light dimmer" as a "ready-to-use-rheostat" and change the fan speed. don't drop the current to much for a ac motor, it coz a noise in rotators

only consider the power/current factors, or simply wattage and/or amperage (that I think it should be below 700w for a regular fan)

you probably know how to attach it:

ac(live)----------- dimmer ----------------- fan

ac(null)------------------------------------------|