Interested in buying an entry Road/Hybrid Bike

[h90]

To be honest, the best advice is to try each one that you like out, and go with the one that you feel most comfortable on. Most shops will let you test ride around the car park, so you can get a feel for the bike before you purchase, the most important thing is getting one that fits you right and is comfortable.

Couple of things to look for if going for a road bike, try to find one with a carbon fork, it will be more forgiving over rough surfaces, and your hands will thank you for it, try to get at least 25mm tyres on it, you can run lower pressure than the usual 23mm tyres and it will be more comfortable and they also have a lower rolling resistance, so you'll be faster ;-)

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Instead of a carbon fork, I would look for steel fork or bike. Cheaper and more forgiving than carbon and less likely to get problems.

But of course more heavy....

Not if it's a Colnago Master, but then you're paying 100k just for the frame and fork ;-)

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I just wanted to write no way that steel can be as light as carbon......good that I didn't.

1.85 kg for this steel frame..

it makes me nervous....itching in my fingers.....I need to have a word with Santa Claus.....

[moonoi]

To be honest, the best advice is to try each one that you like out, and go with the one that you feel most comfortable on. Most shops will let you test ride around the car park, so you can get a feel for the bike before you purchase, the most important thing is getting one that fits you right and is comfortable.

Couple of things to look for if going for a road bike, try to find one with a carbon fork, it will be more forgiving over rough surfaces, and your hands will thank you for it, try to get at least 25mm tyres on it, you can run lower pressure than the usual 23mm tyres and it will be more comfortable and they also have a lower rolling resistance, so you'll be faster ;-)

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Instead of a carbon fork, I would look for steel fork or bike. Cheaper and more forgiving than carbon and less likely to get problems.

But of course more heavy....

Not if it's a Colnago Master, but then you're paying 100k just for the frame and fork ;-)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just wanted to write no way that steel can be as light as carbon......good that I didn't.

1.85 kg for this steel frame..

it makes me nervous....itching in my fingers.....I need to have a word with Santa Claus.....

It is beautiful, and handmade in Italy too. Very hard to keep the credit card in the pocket, especially as they have one on display in the bike shop in my office building.....

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[MaeJoMTB]

And it had cheap bontrager parts. Really EVERYTHING labeled Bontrager on my bike makes problems.

Hubs leak oil and turn difficult.

All screws from Bontrager rust, even the bike didn't get wet ever. I wouldn't buy Trek with Bontrager again.

And yet

My Trek 4300 MTB, 8 years old, still works fine.

Sure a few bolts with a bit of rust, and needed new parts now and again.

But it's done 1,000s of Kms and still manages the Doi Suthep Hill climb twice a week.

Gotta have a carbon fork on a road bike ..........

h90 is living in the past.

In fact, almost all new road bikes have carbon forks ....... apart from the cheap Chinese no name bikes.

[h90]

And it had cheap bontrager parts. Really EVERYTHING labeled Bontrager on my bike makes problems.

Hubs leak oil and turn difficult.

All screws from Bontrager rust, even the bike didn't get wet ever. I wouldn't buy Trek with Bontrager again.

And yet

My Trek 4300 MTB, 8 years old, still works fine.

Sure a few bolts with a bit of rust, and needed new parts now and again.

But it's done 1,000s of Kms and still manages the Doi Suthep Hill climb twice a week.

Gotta have a carbon fork on a road bike ..........

h90 is living in the past.

In fact, almost all new road bikes have carbon forks ....... apart from the cheap Chinese no name bikes.

steel frame:

I admit I am a Dinosaur, but a couple of companies start again to produce good steel frames as the are the most comfortable. But usually heavier. Titanium would be also good but not my price level....

Well all the Bontrager on my Trek are below that I would expect from a 10.000 Baht BigC bike. But the frame is OK, the Shimano parts are excellent and the no name brakes are also excellent. So the complete deal was OK....Well Trek and Bontrager is Chinese (ROC and not PRC but still China) and the difference to Italian made shows everywhere (but also in the price).

[h90]

To be honest, the best advice is to try each one that you like out, and go with the one that you feel most comfortable on. Most shops will let you test ride around the car park, so you can get a feel for the bike before you purchase, the most important thing is getting one that fits you right and is comfortable.

Couple of things to look for if going for a road bike, try to find one with a carbon fork, it will be more forgiving over rough surfaces, and your hands will thank you for it, try to get at least 25mm tyres on it, you can run lower pressure than the usual 23mm tyres and it will be more comfortable and they also have a lower rolling resistance, so you'll be faster ;-)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Instead of a carbon fork, I would look for steel fork or bike. Cheaper and more forgiving than carbon and less likely to get problems.

But of course more heavy....

Not if it's a Colnago Master, but then you're paying 100k just for the frame and fork ;-)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just wanted to write no way that steel can be as light as carbon......good that I didn't.

1.85 kg for this steel frame..

it makes me nervous....itching in my fingers.....I need to have a word with Santa Claus.....

It is beautiful, and handmade in Italy too. Very hard to keep the credit card in the pocket, especially as they have one on display in the bike shop in my office building.....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Please DO NOT tell me where this building is

[moonoi]

Please DO NOT tell me where this building is

Opposite side of Lumphini Park from Probike :-p Sportbicycle is the shop ;-) hehe

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[CNXBKKMAN]

As a novice your chances of finding a bike that you will be happy with a year from now, if you keep riding, is very slim in my experience and opinion. I learned a lot by upgrading one piece of the bike at a time as I developed my fitness and interest.

I eventually switched from mountain bike to road bike as my interests changed. I used to be happy with 15km - 20km but now it is more like 55km to 100km. Like me your needs may change with time so just take the advice given and get out there on the road and enjoy yourself while staying fit.

I have had great luck with Trek and think I get more bang for my buck with Trek but it is also the main brand at my local bike shop and I prefer to go with the flow. Have fun with your new bike and let us know what you get.

I think it depends a little on your expectations. My friends are sick of this story, but I'll repeat it for the rest of you all...

A couple of years back Hari Raya came round (as it does every year) and I didn't fancy a five day weekend with nothing to do but drink, so I walked down to my local bike shop. They were quite busy, so I browsed for a while, looking at the price tags. The last bike I'd bought had been in Taiwan, with as detailed a spec as my Chinese would cope with: Bicycle. Very cheap. So I reckoned I'd be out of pocket by two or three times that - maybe 10,000 baht. Anyway, you can imagine me, browsing this bike shop, wincing and sucking my teeth with every bike I looked at.

"Can I help you, sir"

"No, it seems 'I've come to the wrong shop..." and I walked out.

Anyway, it was a long walk home, and a five-day weekend, so I went back in.

"What's the cheapest bike you;ve got?"

And I walked out with a Mondraker Ventura Pro for about 30,000 baht. It's a mountain bike, so it copes pretty well with the pot-holes and the tree roots, and I can ride on the construction roads and the building sites. As you say, VF, I'd like something more roadey, but it's done me well this last couple of years, and it's by far the most sophisticated bike I've ever ridden. The indexed thumb shifters were like Christmas at Ramadan. I couldn't believe that with disc brakes, you can stop in wet weather.

I reckon err on the side of robust comfort rather than speed and distance. If you are happy riding 20 km a week and want to go further and faster, you'll upgrade, but if you find your bike uncomfortable and fragile, you won't ride it at all.

SC

Anyone new to cycling who has a MTB and wants something more "roadey" first thing to do is buy some road tyres for your MTB. 26.x1.5 or 1.4 . Whatever wheel size you may have 26 , 27.5, 29 etc. Maybe 600 baht a tyre? You can still use your fat inner tubes if you like.

First thing you will notice the bike will ride easier, steering will be faster. You can ride further. Stick a rack on the back and 1000 baht for a pair of cheap vincita panniers and you can tour thailand. Pop the fat tyres back on when you fancy more off road rides or a plusher ride.

The road tyres will work offroad too but will be more bumpy. Totally fine when its dry.

[CNXBKKMAN]

http://saengthongshop.weloveshopping.com/template/e3/showproduct.php?pid=27223639&shopid=319083

Selling off 2015 year model. A bargain.

They are also on Facebook, & reply to pms very quickly.

Thats a good bike and a good share. Loads of them about in Chiang Mai.

[moonoi]

As a novice your chances of finding a bike that you will be happy with a year from now, if you keep riding, is very slim in my experience and opinion. I learned a lot by upgrading one piece of the bike at a time as I developed my fitness and interest.

I eventually switched from mountain bike to road bike as my interests changed. I used to be happy with 15km - 20km but now it is more like 55km to 100km. Like me your needs may change with time so just take the advice given and get out there on the road and enjoy yourself while staying fit.

I have had great luck with Trek and think I get more bang for my buck with Trek but it is also the main brand at my local bike shop and I prefer to go with the flow. Have fun with your new bike and let us know what you get.

I think it depends a little on your expectations. My friends are sick of this story, but I'll repeat it for the rest of you all...

A couple of years back Hari Raya came round (as it does every year) and I didn't fancy a five day weekend with nothing to do but drink, so I walked down to my local bike shop. They were quite busy, so I browsed for a while, looking at the price tags. The last bike I'd bought had been in Taiwan, with as detailed a spec as my Chinese would cope with: Bicycle. Very cheap. So I reckoned I'd be out of pocket by two or three times that - maybe 10,000 baht. Anyway, you can imagine me, browsing this bike shop, wincing and sucking my teeth with every bike I looked at.

"Can I help you, sir"

"No, it seems 'I've come to the wrong shop..." and I walked out.

Anyway, it was a long walk home, and a five-day weekend, so I went back in.

"What's the cheapest bike you;ve got?"

And I walked out with a Mondraker Ventura Pro for about 30,000 baht. It's a mountain bike, so it copes pretty well with the pot-holes and the tree roots, and I can ride on the construction roads and the building sites. As you say, VF, I'd like something more roadey, but it's done me well this last couple of years, and it's by far the most sophisticated bike I've ever ridden. The indexed thumb shifters were like Christmas at Ramadan. I couldn't believe that with disc brakes, you can stop in wet weather.

I reckon err on the side of robust comfort rather than speed and distance. If you are happy riding 20 km a week and want to go further and faster, you'll upgrade, but if you find your bike uncomfortable and fragile, you won't ride it at all.

SC

Anyone new to cycling who has a MTB and wants something more "roadey" first thing to do is buy some road tyres for your MTB. 26.x1.5 or 1.4 . Whatever wheel size you may have 26 , 27.5, 29 etc. Maybe 600 baht a tyre? You can still use your fat inner tubes if you like.

First thing you will notice the bike will ride easier, steering will be faster. You can ride further. Stick a rack on the back and 1000 baht for a pair of cheap vincita panniers and you can tour thailand. Pop the fat tyres back on when you fancy more off road rides or a plusher ride.

The road tyres will work offroad too but will be more bumpy. Totally fine when its dry.

For 29er the Panaracer Ribmo tyre is perfect in 35mm version, retains the plushness of the mtb tyre but with less rolling resistance. I did that when I wanted to do the Ayudthaya 200km Audax, which has to be self supported, and slapped a top peak seat post mounted rack on the back of my XC Mtb.

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[CNXBKKMAN]

And it had cheap bontrager parts. Really EVERYTHING labeled Bontrager on my bike makes problems.

Hubs leak oil and turn difficult.

All screws from Bontrager rust, even the bike didn't get wet ever. I wouldn't buy Trek with Bontrager again.

And yet

My Trek 4300 MTB, 8 years old, still works fine.

Sure a few bolts with a bit of rust, and needed new parts now and again.

But it's done 1,000s of Kms and still manages the Doi Suthep Hill climb twice a week.

Gotta have a carbon fork on a road bike ..........

h90 is living in the past.

In fact, almost all new road bikes have carbon forks ....... apart from the cheap Chinese no name bikes.

steel frame:

I admit I am a Dinosaur, but a couple of companies start again to produce good steel frames as the are the most comfortable. But usually heavier. Titanium would be also good but not my price level....

Well all the Bontrager on my Trek are below that I would expect from a 10.000 Baht BigC bike. But the frame is OK, the Shimano parts are excellent and the no name brakes are also excellent. So the complete deal was OK....Well Trek and Bontrager is Chinese (ROC and not PRC but still China) and the difference to Italian made shows everywhere (but also in the price).

Carbon forks can be a nice feature and add to the comfort. I like them but they are less durable to knocks and falls. I have carbon forks on my specialized tricross. 1000's of miles, off road too. The bike is 6 years old, the forks seem ok but i don't have faith in them like i would some nice steel forks. Its always in the back of my mind whizzing down doi suthip. They give a very nice ride though together with 32mm tyres.

I like steel forks, i have 4130 cromo forks on other bikes and have no intentions to replace them. I remember buying my first 531 tubed tourer in 1989. The ride with 531 forks was amazing as i cycled it home from the shop.

[moonoi]

And it had cheap bontrager parts. Really EVERYTHING labeled Bontrager on my bike makes problems.

Hubs leak oil and turn difficult.

All screws from Bontrager rust, even the bike didn't get wet ever. I wouldn't buy Trek with Bontrager again.

And yet

My Trek 4300 MTB, 8 years old, still works fine.

Sure a few bolts with a bit of rust, and needed new parts now and again.

But it's done 1,000s of Kms and still manages the Doi Suthep Hill climb twice a week.

Gotta have a carbon fork on a road bike ..........

h90 is living in the past.

In fact, almost all new road bikes have carbon forks ....... apart from the cheap Chinese no name bikes.

steel frame:

I admit I am a Dinosaur, but a couple of companies start again to produce good steel frames as the are the most comfortable. But usually heavier. Titanium would be also good but not my price level....

Well all the Bontrager on my Trek are below that I would expect from a 10.000 Baht BigC bike. But the frame is OK, the Shimano parts are excellent and the no name brakes are also excellent. So the complete deal was OK....Well Trek and Bontrager is Chinese (ROC and not PRC but still China) and the difference to Italian made shows everywhere (but also in the price).

Carbon forks can be a nice feature and add to the comfort. I like them but they are less durable to knocks and falls. I have carbon forks on my specialized tricross. 1000's of miles, off road too. The bike is 6 years old, the forks seem ok but i don't have faith in them like i would some nice steel forks. Its always in the back of my mind whizzing down doi suthip. They give a very nice ride though together with 32mm tyres.

I like steel forks, i have 4130 cromo forks on other bikes and have no intentions to replace them. I remember buying my first 531 tubed tourer in 1989. The ride with 531 forks was amazing as i cycled it home from the shop.

Take a look at this then, you should have more faith with carbon :-)

And the same test for steel

[moonoi]

And Pinarello testing their fork to destruction is pretty cool to watch as well

Btw anyone know why quotes seem to be screwed up recently?

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[MESmith]

Btw anyone know why quotes seem to be screwed up recently?

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Usually "operator" error

[moonoi]

Btw anyone know why quotes seem to be screwed up recently?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Usually "operator" error

Let's see I press quote in Tapatalk, type my response, normally it's fine but recently of there are multiple quotes it messes up. I've noticed this across the board as well, so it's not just me :-)

EDIT: did the same thing again, this time the quote works properly, how odd! Anyway not important, back to bikes ;-)

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[h90]

And it had cheap bontrager parts. Really EVERYTHING labeled Bontrager on my bike makes problems.

Hubs leak oil and turn difficult.

All screws from Bontrager rust, even the bike didn't get wet ever. I wouldn't buy Trek with Bontrager again.

And yet

My Trek 4300 MTB, 8 years old, still works fine.

Sure a few bolts with a bit of rust, and needed new parts now and again.

But it's done 1,000s of Kms and still manages the Doi Suthep Hill climb twice a week.

Gotta have a carbon fork on a road bike ..........

h90 is living in the past.

In fact, almost all new road bikes have carbon forks ....... apart from the cheap Chinese no name bikes.

steel frame:

I admit I am a Dinosaur, but a couple of companies start again to produce good steel frames as the are the most comfortable. But usually heavier. Titanium would be also good but not my price level....

Well all the Bontrager on my Trek are below that I would expect from a 10.000 Baht BigC bike. But the frame is OK, the Shimano parts are excellent and the no name brakes are also excellent. So the complete deal was OK....Well Trek and Bontrager is Chinese (ROC and not PRC but still China) and the difference to Italian made shows everywhere (but also in the price).

Carbon forks can be a nice feature and add to the comfort. I like them but they are less durable to knocks and falls. I have carbon forks on my specialized tricross. 1000's of miles, off road too. The bike is 6 years old, the forks seem ok but i don't have faith in them like i would some nice steel forks. Its always in the back of my mind whizzing down doi suthip. They give a very nice ride though together with 32mm tyres.

I like steel forks, i have 4130 cromo forks on other bikes and have no intentions to replace them. I remember buying my first 531 tubed tourer in 1989. The ride with 531 forks was amazing as i cycled it home from the shop.

I had once at very high speed downhill on the street bike a huge stone on the street. In a narrow turn. Somehow I could get the bike straight got full over the stone, and could complete the turn (tubular tire). Rim was a bent inwards badly but held. Don't know what a carbon would have done. I could even ride home (I think without air and the brakes open). Even if the carbon would hold I would be afraid and go slower.

[h90]

And it had cheap bontrager parts. Really EVERYTHING labeled Bontrager on my bike makes problems.

Hubs leak oil and turn difficult.

All screws from Bontrager rust, even the bike didn't get wet ever. I wouldn't buy Trek with Bontrager again.

And yet

My Trek 4300 MTB, 8 years old, still works fine.

Sure a few bolts with a bit of rust, and needed new parts now and again.

But it's done 1,000s of Kms and still manages the Doi Suthep Hill climb twice a week.

Gotta have a carbon fork on a road bike ..........

h90 is living in the past.

In fact, almost all new road bikes have carbon forks ....... apart from the cheap Chinese no name bikes.

steel frame:

I admit I am a Dinosaur, but a couple of companies start again to produce good steel frames as the are the most comfortable. But usually heavier. Titanium would be also good but not my price level....

Well all the Bontrager on my Trek are below that I would expect from a 10.000 Baht BigC bike. But the frame is OK, the Shimano parts are excellent and the no name brakes are also excellent. So the complete deal was OK....Well Trek and Bontrager is Chinese (ROC and not PRC but still China) and the difference to Italian made shows everywhere (but also in the price).

Carbon forks can be a nice feature and add to the comfort. I like them but they are less durable to knocks and falls. I have carbon forks on my specialized tricross. 1000's of miles, off road too. The bike is 6 years old, the forks seem ok but i don't have faith in them like i would some nice steel forks. Its always in the back of my mind whizzing down doi suthip. They give a very nice ride though together with 32mm tyres.

I like steel forks, i have 4130 cromo forks on other bikes and have no intentions to replace them. I remember buying my first 531 tubed tourer in 1989. The ride with 531 forks was amazing as i cycled it home from the shop.

Take a look at this then, you should have more faith with carbon :-)

And the same test for steel

Don't confuse us Dinosaurs with facts, we don't want to evolve to mammals like you

[MaeJoMTB]

Carbon forks can be a nice feature and add to the comfort. I like them but they are less durable to knocks and falls. I have carbon forks on my specialized tricross. 1000's of miles, off road too. The bike is 6 years old, the forks seem ok but i don't have faith in them like i would some nice steel forks. Its always in the back of my mind whizzing down doi suthip. They give a very nice ride though together with 32mm tyres.

Downhill

Suthep ain't all that fast ..... 55Km/hr is about top.

Now the road behind MaeJo reservoir from the temple ..... 67Km/hr on my MTB ........ that's steep!

Not really doing much fast downhill on the Road bike yet, lacking confidence, whole bike is too insubstantial, rim brakes aren't good, too bumpy and I'm not that confident of the grip of 25mm tires on the bends.

Uphill

But cycling up the hill on the road bike, fantastic, hoping to reduce from my current 50 mins to under 45 mins in the next month or two.

I just need a lower gear cassette, it came with 11-28, and I need 11-32 for that last 250m uphill.

[moonoi]

Carbon forks can be a nice feature and add to the comfort. I like them but they are less durable to knocks and falls. I have carbon forks on my specialized tricross. 1000's of miles, off road too. The bike is 6 years old, the forks seem ok but i don't have faith in them like i would some nice steel forks. Its always in the back of my mind whizzing down doi suthip. They give a very nice ride though together with 32mm tyres.

Downhill

Suthep ain't all that fast ..... 55Km/hr is about top.

Now the road behind MaeJo reservoir from the temple ..... 67Km/hr on my MTB ........ that's steep!

Not really doing much fast downhill on the Road bike yet, lacking confidence, whole bike is too insubstantial, rim brakes aren't good, too bumpy and I'm not that confident of the grip of 25mm tires on the bends.

Uphill

But cycling up the hill on the road bike, fantastic, hoping to reduce from my current 50 mins to under 45 mins in the next month or two.

I just need a lower gear cassette, it came with 11-28, and I need 11-32 for that last 250m uphill.

I suspect the problem you are having on your road bike is simply that you are going beyond the Trek 1.1's capabilities when descending. You should probably consider to upgrade it. You can upgrade the brakes easily and relatively inexpensively too, along with the wheels (but I'd do the brakes first, would recommend going for Ultegra brakes, as they have the best cost/performance ratio, but you won't go wrong with 105 either). Having effective brakes you can trust will transform your confidence. The other thing to change is the tyres, if you haven't already, I'd recommend Michelin Pro 4 Service Course or Continental Grand Prix II both have outstanding grip in wet or dry, Michelins edge the Contis for outright grip, but the Contis are more durable.

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[h90]

Carbon forks can be a nice feature and add to the comfort. I like them but they are less durable to knocks and falls. I have carbon forks on my specialized tricross. 1000's of miles, off road too. The bike is 6 years old, the forks seem ok but i don't have faith in them like i would some nice steel forks. Its always in the back of my mind whizzing down doi suthip. They give a very nice ride though together with 32mm tyres.

Downhill

Suthep ain't all that fast ..... 55Km/hr is about top.

Now the road behind MaeJo reservoir from the temple ..... 67Km/hr on my MTB ........ that's steep!

Not really doing much fast downhill on the Road bike yet, lacking confidence, whole bike is too insubstantial, rim brakes aren't good, too bumpy and I'm not that confident of the grip of 25mm tires on the bends.

Uphill

But cycling up the hill on the road bike, fantastic, hoping to reduce from my current 50 mins to under 45 mins in the next month or two.

I just need a lower gear cassette, it came with 11-28, and I need 11-32 for that last 250m uphill.

I suspect the problem you are having on your road bike is simply that you are going beyond the Trek 1.1's capabilities when descending. You should probably consider to upgrade it. You can upgrade the brakes easily and relatively inexpensively too, along with the wheels (but I'd do the brakes first, would recommend going for Ultegra brakes, as they have the best cost/performance ratio, but you won't go wrong with 105 either). Having effective brakes you can trust will transform your confidence. The other thing to change is the tyres, if you haven't already, I'd recommend Michelin Pro 4 Service Course or Continental Grand Prix II both have outstanding grip in wet or dry, Michelins edge the Contis for outright grip, but the Contis are more durable.

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I think the brakes themself aren't so important but the brake pad (that what touch the rim) must be good and set right.

Frames differ a lot....my old Bianci and Musil (spelling) frames started to shake at high speed, but felt safe if you could block the shake with the knees.

The Trek doesn't seem to shake but doesn't feel safe, specially in turns....or maybe I just need more km on it.

[moonoi]

Carbon forks can be a nice feature and add to the comfort. I like them but they are less durable to knocks and falls. I have carbon forks on my specialized tricross. 1000's of miles, off road too. The bike is 6 years old, the forks seem ok but i don't have faith in them like i would some nice steel forks. Its always in the back of my mind whizzing down doi suthip. They give a very nice ride though together with 32mm tyres.

Downhill

Suthep ain't all that fast ..... 55Km/hr is about top.

Now the road behind MaeJo reservoir from the temple ..... 67Km/hr on my MTB ........ that's steep!

Not really doing much fast downhill on the Road bike yet, lacking confidence, whole bike is too insubstantial, rim brakes aren't good, too bumpy and I'm not that confident of the grip of 25mm tires on the bends.

Uphill

But cycling up the hill on the road bike, fantastic, hoping to reduce from my current 50 mins to under 45 mins in the next month or two.

I just need a lower gear cassette, it came with 11-28, and I need 11-32 for that last 250m uphill.

I suspect the problem you are having on your road bike is simply that you are going beyond the Trek 1.1's capabilities when descending. You should probably consider to upgrade it. You can upgrade the brakes easily and relatively inexpensively too, along with the wheels (but I'd do the brakes first, would recommend going for Ultegra brakes, as they have the best cost/performance ratio, but you won't go wrong with 105 either). Having effective brakes you can trust will transform your confidence. The other thing to change is the tyres, if you haven't already, I'd recommend Michelin Pro 4 Service Course or Continental Grand Prix II both have outstanding grip in wet or dry, Michelins edge the Contis for outright grip, but the Contis are more durable.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think the brakes themself aren't so important but the brake pad (that what touch the rim) must be good and set right.

Frames differ a lot....my old Bianci and Musil (spelling) frames started to shake at high speed, but felt safe if you could block the shake with the knees.

The Trek doesn't seem to shake but doesn't feel safe, specially in turns....or maybe I just need more km on it.

Understand, but having been there and done it, I can tell you that there is a phenomenal amount of difference in the power and modulation of entry level no brand brakes (normally made by Tektro) and the branded series brakes from Campagnolo, SRAM and Shimano. Obviously when you buy new brakes, they also come with new pads.

My Giant TCR Advanced SL corners like its on rails and is very confidence inspiring even at speed, you just have to be careful in turn in, as the short wheelbase means it is very fast to drop in to the corner and change direction.

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[GarryP]

To be honest, the best advice is to try each one that you like out, and go with the one that you feel most comfortable on. Most shops will let you test ride around the car park, so you can get a feel for the bike before you purchase, the most important thing is getting one that fits you right and is comfortable.

Couple of things to look for if going for a road bike, try to find one with a carbon fork, it will be more forgiving over rough surfaces, and your hands will thank you for it, try to get at least 25mm tyres on it, you can run lower pressure than the usual 23mm tyres and it will be more comfortable and they also have a lower rolling resistance, so you'll be faster ;-)

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Instead of a carbon fork, I would look for steel fork or bike. Cheaper and more forgiving than carbon and less likely to get problems.

But of course more heavy....

Not if it's a Colnago Master, but then you're paying 100k just for the frame and fork ;-)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just wanted to write no way that steel can be as light as carbon......good that I didn't.

1.85 kg for this steel frame..

it makes me nervous....itching in my fingers.....I need to have a word with Santa Claus.....

It is beautiful, and handmade in Italy too. Very hard to keep the credit card in the pocket, especially as they have one on display in the bike shop in my office building.....

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I pop into that shop from time to time on the way back to my office building, after lunch at the pink tent. The service looks great and some of the bikes are fantastic (but out of my price range), but I don't really care for the Specialized hybrids they have. I compared many different models in the same price range of many different brands and in the Baht 30,000 bracket, Specialized hybrid specs were lower than most of the main competitors.

The particular bikes you are talking about though look great. But I will continue just to look.

[h90]

Carbon forks can be a nice feature and add to the comfort. I like them but they are less durable to knocks and falls. I have carbon forks on my specialized tricross. 1000's of miles, off road too. The bike is 6 years old, the forks seem ok but i don't have faith in them like i would some nice steel forks. Its always in the back of my mind whizzing down doi suthip. They give a very nice ride though together with 32mm tyres.

Downhill

Suthep ain't all that fast ..... 55Km/hr is about top.

Now the road behind MaeJo reservoir from the temple ..... 67Km/hr on my MTB ........ that's steep!

Not really doing much fast downhill on the Road bike yet, lacking confidence, whole bike is too insubstantial, rim brakes aren't good, too bumpy and I'm not that confident of the grip of 25mm tires on the bends.

Uphill

But cycling up the hill on the road bike, fantastic, hoping to reduce from my current 50 mins to under 45 mins in the next month or two.

I just need a lower gear cassette, it came with 11-28, and I need 11-32 for that last 250m uphill.

I suspect the problem you are having on your road bike is simply that you are going beyond the Trek 1.1's capabilities when descending. You should probably consider to upgrade it. You can upgrade the brakes easily and relatively inexpensively too, along with the wheels (but I'd do the brakes first, would recommend going for Ultegra brakes, as they have the best cost/performance ratio, but you won't go wrong with 105 either). Having effective brakes you can trust will transform your confidence. The other thing to change is the tyres, if you haven't already, I'd recommend Michelin Pro 4 Service Course or Continental Grand Prix II both have outstanding grip in wet or dry, Michelins edge the Contis for outright grip, but the Contis are more durable.

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I think the brakes themself aren't so important but the brake pad (that what touch the rim) must be good and set right.

Frames differ a lot....my old Bianci and Musil (spelling) frames started to shake at high speed, but felt safe if you could block the shake with the knees.

The Trek doesn't seem to shake but doesn't feel safe, specially in turns....or maybe I just need more km on it.

Understand, but having been there and done it, I can tell you that there is a phenomenal amount of difference in the power and modulation of entry level no brand brakes (normally made by Tektro) and the branded series brakes from Campagnolo, SRAM and Shimano. Obviously when you buy new brakes, they also come with new pads.

My Giant TCR Advanced SL corners like its on rails and is very confidence inspiring even at speed, you just have to be careful in turn in, as the short wheelbase means it is very fast to drop in to the corner and change direction.

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Had some cheaper brakes in the past and they had the same geometry as the expensive one, just more heavy. (Well I don't mean the ultra bottom cheap one).

Just they come with a bad pad, if you swap it, you don't feel much difference, and I used them in the alps. I think to be on the save side something like Shimano 105 is both cheap and good. Of course also a problem is when the pads start to overheat if you are heavy. With backpack, so say 75 kg total, I got the pads smoking once in relative cool and wet weather.

My old bike start to get resonating (spelling???) vibrations somewhere at 80-90 km/h. But if you look the knees on the top tube, they kept stable. Didn't had the chance to go that fast in the south, yet. But the trek feels complete different so I doubt it has the same problem.

[CNXBKKMAN]

Thanks for those videos moonoi. I have seen videos like that before but what happens when the forks are 6 years old and have been baked under the tropical sun? My forks have an alloy crown with carbon legs glued onto the crown. This is the bit that may fail? Have I had a good innings with these forks. Best to get a fresh bike or forks? If the forks were steel I wouldn't worry about UV damage or glue deteriorating.

[bobfish]

Downhill

Suthep ain't all that fast ..... 55Km/hr is about top.

Now the road behind MaeJo reservoir from the temple ..... 67Km/hr on my MTB ........ that's steep!

Not really doing much fast downhill on the Road bike yet, lacking confidence, whole bike is too insubstantial, rim brakes aren't good, too bumpy and I'm not that confident of the grip of 25mm tires on the bends.

"Not really doing much fast downhill on the Road bike yet"

Strava shows some guys pulling 90+ on Suthep... Madmen! My top there is around 70 [ish!! - well nearly ]

But, I blew a front tyre last year after hitting a golf ball sized rock at about 40. Survived, but only just, so I'm much warier now of going fast on narrow clinchers.

Back to the OP' s question: Nothing wrong with the Trek 1.1 for road. My preference: I'd get a hardtail 29er and for road throw on some Ribmos like Moonoi suggested. That way the bike has a larger range of options for riding than a hybrid. Bolt a rack on and you can use it as a beer fetching device. Last tip: cans, not bottles. Cheers!

[MESmith]

+1 for 29er with road tyres.

Hope all those quoting top speeds are using speedometer, not mobile phone gps

[StreetCowboy]

+1 for 29er with road tyres.

Hope all those quoting top speeds are using speedometer, not mobile phone gps

Do you think that there's much difference?

I know the GPS estimates are a bit grainey.

I think it would be worth avoiding the front suspension if you want to go quickly on the road.

I've burst the little switch that lets me lock the suspension out, and I reckon I suffer a bit from wasted energy riding with the suspension unlocked. Also, the riding position is less aggressive because the handlebars are higher, with the forks not compressed.

SC

[MESmith]

+1 for 29er with road tyres.

Hope all those quoting top speeds are using speedometer, not mobile phone gps

Do you think that there's much difference?

I know the GPS estimates are a bit grainey.

I think it would be worth avoiding the front suspension if you want to go quickly on the road.

I've burst the little switch that lets me lock the suspension out, and I reckon I suffer a bit from wasted energy riding with the suspension unlocked. Also, the riding position is less aggressive because the handlebars are higher, with the forks not compressed.

SC

Depends on the quality of gps fix. Can get some way out readings which are obviously wrong, so why not some believable high readings. Look at the gps plot - sometimes you're way off the road etc.

I lock the front suspension on roads, except on descents where I know there are pot holes. Very comfortable on long rides. I do a mix of offroad & on road, so it means I only need 1 bike.

[h90]

Thanks for those videos moonoi. I have seen videos like that before but what happens when the forks are 6 years old and have been baked under the tropical sun? My forks have an alloy crown with carbon legs glued onto the crown. This is the bit that may fail? Have I had a good innings with these forks. Best to get a fresh bike or forks? If the forks were steel I wouldn't worry about UV damage or glue deteriorating.

Also falling 200 times on stone, and get small damaged on the surface. I would worry that these cracks on the surface would grow over time..

My steel frame got over time, lots of tiny brown spots from rust grow under the chrome. That would also make me worry if run the fork at 120 down the hill....

I guess best for long term would be titanium but not my price segment....

[StreetCowboy]

+1 for 29er with road tyres.

Hope all those quoting top speeds are using speedometer, not mobile phone gps

Do you think that there's much difference?

I know the GPS estimates are a bit grainey.

I think it would be worth avoiding the front suspension if you want to go quickly on the road.

I've burst the little switch that lets me lock the suspension out, and I reckon I suffer a bit from wasted energy riding with the suspension unlocked. Also, the riding position is less aggressive because the handlebars are higher, with the forks not compressed.

SC

Depends on the quality of gps fix. Can get some way out readings which are obviously wrong, so why not some believable high readings. Look at the gps plot - sometimes you're way off the road etc.

I lock the front suspension on roads, except on descents where I know there are pot holes. Very comfortable on long rides. I do a mix of offroad & on road, so it means I only need 1 bike.

I think the gps speed is reasonably accurate. It depends on the smoothing algorithm for the calculations; I'm more sceptical about the height estimates. But you do get some bogus results in the covered car parks, with the GPS data dotting about all over the place. Coming out of the office I normally ride through the multi-storey to the exit before I start my tracking.

I used to always have the sspension locked down, but it tended to "creep" out again.

I'm also tempted to go for drop handle bars on my next bike, just for the variety of hand positions - I get slightly sore thumbs with the flat bars. Or maybe try to get something with a bit more backward curve on it...

SC

[MaeJoMTB]

+1 for 29er with road tyres.

Hope all those quoting top speeds are using speedometer, not mobile phone gps

Do you think that there's much difference?

I know the GPS estimates are a bit grainey.

I think it would be worth avoiding the front suspension if you want to go quickly on the road.

I've burst the little switch that lets me lock the suspension out, and I reckon I suffer a bit from wasted energy riding with the suspension unlocked. Also, the riding position is less aggressive because the handlebars are higher, with the forks not compressed.

SC

Depends on the quality of gps fix. Can get some way out readings which are obviously wrong, so why not some believable high readings. Look at the gps plot - sometimes you're way off the road etc.

I lock the front suspension on roads, except on descents where I know there are pot holes. Very comfortable on long rides. I do a mix of offroad & on road, so it means I only need 1 bike.

I think the gps speed is reasonably accurate. It depends on the smoothing algorithm for the calculations; I'm more sceptical about the height estimates. But you do get some bogus results in the covered car parks, with the GPS data dotting about all over the place. Coming out of the office I normally ride through the multi-storey to the exit before I start my tracking.

I used to always have the sspension locked down, but it tended to "creep" out again.

I'm also tempted to go for drop handle bars on my next bike, just for the variety of hand positions - I get slightly sore thumbs with the flat bars. Or maybe try to get something with a bit more backward curve on it...

SC

I have a speedo on each of my newer bikes and a GPS.

The GPS is just plain wrong, speed lags way behind your real speed, distance up hills is way out.

From CM Zoo to Wat Doi Suthep, GPS measures 10.2Km, both speedos read 11.1Km

On the flat GPS and speedos are the same. But speed measurement is still laggy on the GPS.

You can buy a Sunding speedo for 250bht on Lazada, works perfectly, but don't get it wet!

http://www.lazada.co.th/sunding-491828.html

Front suspension

You only need to lock it when going up steep hills, and only if you have soft suspension.