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Posted
Torque figures are for clean unlubricated threads ...lubricating the threads basically increases the tension on the bolts/studs.

 

As you say ...if you don't know any better grease is preferable to oil...

 

But keep it up ...your tales pass away the time whilst MrsJ cooks the breakfast ...

 

As is obvious I’m only an interested amateur, but I enjoy learning.

I’m not even sure the bolts are not supposed to be changed sometimes. Maybe my guy agrees and has a gleaming torque wrench he won in a competition.

But as my graduate engineer friend said as I tried to analyze things he said "just let the guy get on with his job."

 

Enjoy your brek.

My wife got back from hospital night shift 8.30.

She also offered to cook a breakfast as I was a good boy last week, but a hot breakfast minutes after I wake up? Yuk.

I’ll stick with my liquidised ice cold blender full of bananas, milk and nut muesli at a civilized hour.

 

 

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Posted
Did you have the head skimmed?  

 

 

This was the head and block face condition he sent pics of when he opened it.

I ran Past the next day, and both of those faces were gleaming......but I can’t be sure that the head had the full skim or not.

I had mentioned a skim by miming when I first described him the car problem and he nodded as in "can do" but said he wanted to check other stuff first like the water pump before thinking about the head.

When I delivered the car after a 25 minute drive......and btw it was at a normal temperature......e first thing he did was feel the top hose.

 

These things all increased my confidence in him

 

IMG_7594.thumb.JPG.c8a04e99c68a995ec47519b5f93edfb9.JPG&key=a41defa9489d5a5abf94f878fcc3241d54af5ecff13772feebfedd16f4c32a4c

 

IMG_7595.JPG.46c99b43f613be000376d29a14d17ac7.JPG&key=9d370d00c6798e10617aa3a5ee3399556e32012bf5d79671fcae518d9193e8a3

 

 

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Posted
You can see by a few exhaust valve colours that something was going on...Would like to have seen the head gasket..


I’ll get a photo for u soon Transsm.
Interested what u mean about the valve colours.
Also wonder what was used to decalcify the coolant channels as they looked clean when I last went


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  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, cheeryble said:

 


I’ll get a photo for u soon Transsm.
Interested what u mean about the valve colours.
Also wonder what was used to decalcify the coolant channels as they looked clean when I last went


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Looks like the engine did not have antifreeze/corrosion inhibitor, which is the reason for your woes..

Posted
You can see by a few exhaust valve colours that something was going on...Would like to have seen the head gasket..

IMG_7620.JPG
IMG_7619.JPG

I asked about a head skim he said they only took a mm or less off.
The engine's just been hoisted back in. It looks lovely and clean.
Finish tomorrow evening maybe
IMG_7618.JPG



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  • Like 1
Posted

My wife got a call yesterday they found something corroded and needed 1800 baht for the part.

What is this part ti. Don’t recognize.

 

IMG_7627.thumb.JPG.1f3a014be738b2f5d20b57380a1296c8.JPG

Call just now he said the engine is ready, they wjust working on the brakes, which is something I knew needed doing.

Crossed fingers

 

 

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Posted
3 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

My wife got a call yesterday they found something broken and corroded and needed 1800 baht for the part.

What is this part ti. Don’t recognize.

 

IMG_7627.JPG

Call just now he said the engine is ready, that just working on the brakes, which is something I knew needed doing.

Crossed fingers

 

 

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Does the ride have a heater...?

Posted

I was thinking before 'but how can the brake cylinder corrode when it contains a type of oil'?

 

Turns out it was something else a similar shape which contained water or coolant depending on the year.i dunno what it is it was tucked away behind a little panel on the inlet side under the manifold.

I’m thinking it carries coolant to warm control for the injection like an automatic choke or warm something else

As for the brake cylinder that was also replaced. He told me to feel inside it. There was a very small area of the slightest roughness.

"Feel it?." He asked. Yes. Well that’s enough to cause the problem.

 

Clutch now feels just fine with the proper cable in.

 

The engine looks and feels good.

 

 

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Posted
20 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

I was thinking before 'but how can the brake cylinder corrode when it contains a type of oil'?

 

Turns out it was something else a similar shape which contained water or coolant depending on the year.i dunno what it is it was tucked away behind a little panel on the inlet side under the manifold.

I’m thinking it carries coolant to warm control for the injection like an automatic choke or warm something else

As for the brake cylinder that was also replaced. He told me to feel inside it. There was a very small area of the slightest roughness.

"Feel it?." He asked. Yes. Well that’s enough to cause the problem.

 

Clutch now feels just fine with the proper cable in.

 

The engine looks and feels good.

 

 

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I was right then, was to do with the choke....

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, transam said:

I was right then, was to do with the choke....

Mazda Lantis has a similar thing ..speeds the engine up when cold

  • Like 1
Posted
Have you thought of setting it on fire and just collecting the insurance money?

Lol reminds me when I asked my father what he thought about the old ‘64 Buick Riviera I brought home,, “Jack up the alternator and put a new car around it and you’ve got something”.
  • Like 2
Posted
30 minutes ago, KMartinHandyman said:


Lol reminds me when I asked my father what he thought about the old ‘64 Buick Riviera I brought home,, “Jack up the alternator and put a new car around it and you’ve got something”.

I would like one now......

 

buik2.jpg.31bffb5d51f496780c0956039c7be72c.jpg

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

It is just a water pipe junction. It has corroded because of lack of coolant or incorrect coolant usage and being filled with tap water.

The correct coolant is non silicate phosphate based.

Edited by stubuzz
  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/5/2019 at 9:13 AM, cheeryble said:

On yesterdays; trial with the rad cap off at idle it took many minutes before a very little overflow then a few seconds of some modest gushing which stopped quickly and didn't happen any longer. 

 

That's pretty normal when the 'stat opens.

  • Like 1
Posted

Cheeryble, you were right, you had metioned me here (p49) ........................ but, I wasn't here lol. I hadn't seen this thread.

 

This looks like there could have been a slight water leak. I looked carefully in that area, the clue being that the inlet valves and plug are darker on that cylinder.

 

 

imageproxy.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/21/2019 at 5:32 AM, transam said:

You can see by a few exhaust valve colours that something was going on...Would like to have seen the head gasket..

It was still on the head in the 1st pic. ????

Posted

It was interesting to learn the final outcome of the clutch problem - would have been good in the original thread though. Do I understand correctly that you did have the cable replaced, but they fitted the wrong cable ....... and that it was this one then got heat damaged?

 

Overall it seems these guys do great work, despite their working conditions. What a pity they can't be put in a nice new, air conned workshop with ramps/hoists, etc.

Posted (edited)
10 minutes ago, Lancashirelad said:

It was still on the head in the 1st pic. ????

IMG_7619.thumb.JPG.290070174a4966b318a0ba2b1e76b2d9.JPGIMG_7620.thumb.JPG.24461f4338083ce5f239eec70b34e609.JPGAs it had been 2 or 3 days I checked the coolant levels. Top up tank OK. Rad cap coolant was clean and full.

Edited by cheeryble
Posted

Yes I saw those thanks. Transam said he would have liked to see the gasket, but you could see the possible problem in the 1st pic when the gasket was still stuck to the head.

 

  • Like 1

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