Electric Vehicles in Thailand

[transam]

5 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

 

Unheard of for an ICE car to have a warranty that long.

Engines can be rebuilt after warranty, longevity depends on the owner, and servicing, hence a shorter warranty.

EV battery 8 years, owner is not involved, that is the manufacturers' deadline, if mileage is involved, it could be 4 years, and a big payout..😱

[Yellowtail]

2 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

 

It happens very rarely.

 

ICE always fail, they have 100 times more moving parts.

 

Do you think a replacement battery in 10 years will be expensive? I don't think it's likely until 20 years, but that's just my opinion.

But for a few flat tires, I have not any kind of engine failure with an ICEV since the early '80s when I blew the rear main in a 350 chevy driving home drunk full throttle in second gear. Bought a rebuilt long block for ~$600. 

 

I did have to replace a clutch in the mid '90s. ~$50 and a half a day. 

 

I did have an electronics issue with one of the Isuzus where a fuse would blew and it would only go about 40kph, that was fixed under warranty.

 

I drove 60-80,000km per year here for 29 years until I retired. Again, only ever stuck with flats a few times.

[transam]

12 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

Haval (per the salesman at the auto show) said the battery warranty was 8 years, 70% and (I think) 150,000km

90,000 miles, not very good, is it.........😏

My Toyota, the timing belt replacement was at 90,000 miles........

[Yellowtail]

14 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

 

Unheard of for an ICE car to have a warranty that long.

Not in Thailand perhaps, but in the US:  Kia, Mitsubishi, Hyundai, and Genesis (Hyundai's luxury brand) all offer powertrain warranties that last 10 years or 100,000 miles. Each of these auto brands also come with 5-year/60,000-mile bumper-to-bumper warranties.

 

160,000km & 10 years is better than 150,000km & 8 years. 

[Yellowtail]

5 minutes ago, transam said:

90,000 miles, not very good, is it.........😏

My Toyota, the timing belt replacement was at 90,000 miles........

I changed the timing belt in my sister's '87 Toyota FX16 when it was due, it looked like new. 

[transam]

2 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

I changed the timing belt in my sister's '87 Toyota FX16 when it was due, it looked like new. 

Could be, I suppose the mileage date replacement is to cover themselves, they don't know how the engine will be used...🤗

[GroveHillWanderer]

6 hours ago, transam said:

Can ICE rides have a lithium 12 volt battery...?

Apparently yes, although it may be dependent on model/make. Reading various sources it seems not all ICE vehicles will accept a lithium-based 12V battery but some will. 

 

See for instance, the discussion on the link below. 

 

Replaced my Evora’s battery with Antigravity’s T6 lithium battery

[KhunLA]

1 hour ago, marino28 said:

One important consideration when buying a car is also the price you can get when you resell it.

 

A 10-year-old pickup still has a decent resale value.

 

An electric car, considering the degradation of the battery and the rapid advancement in technology, will probably be worth close to 0. 

 

P.S. I am not against electric cars and plan to buy one myself in the future as a second car, but math is math.

I wonder what the ICEV will be worth in 2034, with the ongoing tech improvements, cheaper batteries and price wars of EV.   if lucky, same petrol prices in 2034, doubtful as may be a niche market then.   

 

Who would be buying, as it's a hard sell now, especially if you are one to keep your vehicle 10-20 years.   Only those that can't charge at home, or impatiently on the road all the time are avoiding EV.

 

Degradation is minimal, as I calculated <4% over our 8 yr warranty period, based on 1 yr use & degradation.

Edited April 11 by KhunLA

[Yellowtail]

7 minutes ago, GroveHillWanderer said:

Apparently yes, although it may be dependent on model/make. Reading various sources it seems not all ICE vehicles will accept a lithium-based 12V battery but some will. 

 

See for instance, the discussion on the link below. 

 

Replaced my Evora’s battery with Antigravity’s T6 lithium battery

What would be the point? Lead acid batteries are cheaper, do the job perfectly and are almost 100% recycled.

 

 

[ExpatOilWorker]

17 minutes ago, KhunLA said:

I wonder what the ICEV will be worth in 2034, with the ongoing tech improvements, cheaper batteries and price wars of EV.   if lucky, same petrol prices in 2034, doubtful as may be a niche market then.   

 

Who would be buying, as it's a hard sell now, especially if you are one to keep your vehicle 10-20 years.   Only those that can't charge at home, or impatiently on the road all the time are avoiding EV.

 

Degradation is minimal, as I calculated <4% over our 8 yr warranty period, based on 1 yr use & degradation.

Regulations are also favoring EVs. Starting 2025 diesel cars are not allowed in Paris, Mexico City, Madrid and Athens. Already some older diesel cars have to pay an emissions tax to enter London. 

That said, I sincerely doubt that will ever happen to Bangkok. 

[josephbloggs]

1 hour ago, transam said:

My ageing iPhone 6 Plus says battery is 100%.....🤭

 

Are you just being obtuse for the sake of it or are you really that dense?

Your iPhone 6 will charge to 100% of it's current capacity which may, or may not, be significantly degraded from when you bought it, depending on many factors.

The SoH of a battery is scientifically measurable. It is the difference between the capacity of the battery at its current state vs when it was new. It is not what your readout says on your iPhone as that tells you the state of charge based on its current capacity, not its historical one.
 

Benefit of the doubt: being obtuse and annoying. Probably more realistic: dense (and I'm not talking about the battery).

You should definitely stick to diesels and the almighty Suzuki Celeriac, I think the technology in an EV is beyond you.
 

[josephbloggs]

1 hour ago, transam said:

I sold my Toyota diesel 3.0 4x4 Auto at 11.5 years old, still went like rocket and didn't burn oil. 🤗

Went like a rocket. 😂😂😂😂😂😂

Oh my......

 

[Bandersnatch]

7 hours ago, In the jungle said:

.....and the toxic mess that is its battery.

You clearly don’t understand the concept of toxicity.

 

If you never had heavy metal poisoning I suggest you try licking your Lead Acid battery, I’m sure you’ll find it an edifying experience.

 

[transam]

4 minutes ago, josephbloggs said:

Are you just being obtuse for the sake of it or are you really that dense?

Your iPhone 6 will charge to 100% of it's current capacity which may, or may not, be significantly degraded from when you bought it, depending on many factors.

The SoH of a battery is scientifically measurable. It is the difference between the capacity of the battery at its current state vs when it was new. It is not what your readout says on your iPhone as that tells you the state of charge based on its current capacity, not its historical one.
 

Benefit of the doubt: being obtuse and annoying. Probably more realistic: dense (and I'm not talking about the battery).

You should definitely stick to diesels and the almighty Suzuki Celeriac, I think the technology in an EV is beyond you.
 

Eeeeer, I seem to have struck a nerve. Calm down, it's only a motoring thread, chap, with views from different angles.......🤭

As for dense...........😂

[josephbloggs]

1 hour ago, transam said:

IMy thoughts are a 10 year old EV battery could fail at any time, it is fact that EV batteries do fail, businesses have started up to replace them. It would be a risky purchase, unless giveaway price...🤗

Yes, things can fail in any type of equipment. Time will tell how reliable EVs are long term, but current trends show them as more reliable as ICEVs as they are much simpler, more efficient machines with far fewer moving parts. Just think, you put a litre of fuel in an ICE. It needs to be mixed with oxygen, burned at precisely the right millisecond in a chamber that has pistons going up and down thousands of times a minute, a camshaft moving valves open and closed hundreds of times a second, you need fuel pumps to get the fuel in at the right time, injectors to spray it, oil pumps to lubricate the whole system otherwise it will seize, you need cooling systems to stop the whole thing from overheating, you need exhaust systems to extract the poisonous gasses, catalytic converters to try to remove some of the more noxious stuff, a gear box to deliver it. All that to make an axle go round and round, and you have lost maybe 70% (or more) of the potential of the fuel you put in.

An EV you put electrons in a battery, that is fed to a motor which spins an axle. Much less to go wrong and so much more efficient.

Oh, and guess what, businesses have sprung up to replace faulty ICEV parts. They are called garages, not sure if you've noticed them.

 

 

 

[josephbloggs]

15 minutes ago, transam said:

Eeeeer, I seem to have struck a nerve. Calm down, it's only a motoring thread, chap, with views from different angles.......🤭

As for dense...........😂

Nope, no nerves struck, but let's be clear - you are not posting views, you are posting nonsense, that's why I have to pull you up.

Different views are welcome, just say you have tried one and you didn't like it and I think everyone would be happy with that. Just don't make stuff up - it's an easy rule to follow really.

[transam]

1 minute ago, josephbloggs said:

Yes, things can fail in any type of equipment. Time will tell how reliable EVs are long term, but current trends show them as more reliable as ICEVs as they are much simpler, more efficient machines with far fewer moving parts. Just think, you put a litre of fuel in an ICE. It needs to be mixed with oxygen, burned at precisely the right millisecond in a chamber that has pistons going up and down thousands of times a minute, a camshaft moving valves open and closed hundreds of times a second, you need fuel pumps to get the fuel in at the right time, injectors to spray it, oil pumps to lubricate the whole system otherwise it will seize, you need cooling systems to stop the whole thing from overheating, you need exhaust systems to extract the poisonous gasses, catalytic converters to try to remove some of the more noxious stuff, a gear box to deliver it. All that to make an axle go round and round, and you have lost maybe 70% (or more) of the potential of the fuel you put in.

An EV you put electrons in a battery, that is fed to a motor which spins an axle. Much less to go wrong and so much more efficient.

Oh, and guess what, businesses have sprung up to replace faulty ICEV parts. They are called garages, not sure if you've noticed them.

 

 

 

Does an alternator or starter motor ever fail...? Of course, they do.

 

I really don't know why you have written that lot, I have been fiddling with engines most of my life........

[transam]

2 minutes ago, josephbloggs said:

Nope, no nerves struck, but let's be clear - you are not posting views, you are posting nonsense, that's why I have to pull you up.

Different views are welcome, just say you have tried one and you didn't like it and I think everyone would be happy with that. Just don't make stuff up - it's an easy rule to follow really.

You remind me of finding a screw loose.....🤗

You just don't like opinions, resort to slagging off, but, never mind, not serious yet......😉

[GroveHillWanderer]

1 hour ago, Yellowtail said:

What would be the point? Lead acid batteries are cheaper, do the job perfectly and are almost 100% recycled.

The issue being addressed wasn't what the point was. The question from Transam was:

 

7 hours ago, transam said:

Can ICE rides have a lithium 12 volt battery...?

 

Nothing more, nothing less.

[Pib]

7 hours ago, Andrew Dwyer said:

Actually mine uses a Lithium Iron Battery 

( lithium ferro phosphate )

 

 

The BYD Seal and I think the Dolphin do use a LFP 12V battery; however, the BYD Atto uses a 12V no maintenance "lead acid" battery.  See the picture at the bottom from my Atto 3.   There are youtube videos showing where some people have swapped out the lead acid battery for an LFP battery.   And no the "L" on the end of the part number below does not mean a Lithium type battery....it just relates to battery terminal orientation....many battery part numbers come with a L or R as part of the part number to designate positive/negative terminal orientation.   

 

My Atto 3 Battery....lead acid

 

 

Edited April 11 by Pib

[BKKBike09]

3 hours ago, ExpatOilWorker said:

What is happening here?

Is BYD subsidizing electricity and if so why? What is in it for BYD to hand cash back to existing customers?

Bundle "free" electricity as a sale promotion on a new car makes sense, but not after the deal is done.

I don't recall BMW ever gave me a jerrycan full of fuel!!!

 

Marketing? Building brand value and loyalty? I doubt it's costing them anything. In fact, they're probably going to make some money because I suspect the electricity costs them less than THB 4, and some BYD owners who might otherwise go to PTT or wherever might take the time and effort to go and use a Rever charger to save a massive 50 baht or whatever. The same folk who won't pay THB 40 to use the tollway.

 

When I renewed my ICE insurance last year Bangkok Insurance 'gave' me THB 2000 in PTT fuel vouchers. 

 

 

 

[Pib]

13 hours ago, ExpatOilWorker said:

Right, so if the car is consuming 1.3 kWh for propulsion (10 km @ 7 km/kWh) and the AC is separately using 1 kWh, then the overall mileage for EVs drops significantly in hot weather and slow moving Bangkok city traffic, similarly to the case of extreme cold weather and highway speed.

@Pib probably has the number, but just like ICE, EVs certainly also have a 20-80 km/h sweet spot in terms of fuel efficiency. 

 

The amount of KW being used at any point in time on the EV display represents all power traction battery usage occurring at that time....like if driving along with the A/C turned on and say just for discussion it showed around 13KW being used. In my BYD Atto assuming the car has already cooled down inside and it's a HOT day like today being around 37-39C around 1.5KW of that 13KW power usage would be from the A/C usage.  That works out to around 11 to 12% of the power being used....which also means if you could stand to drive without an A/C in 37-39C weather then your EV could probably get 11 to 12% more range. 

 

Now some BYD vehicle owners out there might ask, "Pib, how do you know its1.5KW since the EV KW real time usage only displays to whole number....does "not" reflect to a decimal point while driving....like 1.5, 14.2, 13.8KW, etc?"   

 

Well, it because I have used OBD2 data (i.e., an OBD2 dongle with a OBD2 app) while driving along which does provide readouts to 1 or 2 decimal points depending on the parameter being measured   For example, the Percent of Charge remaining only reflects whole numbers from 0 to 100% on the EV display but in OBD2 data it reflects to one decimal point....example: 95% displayed on the EV could be anything between 94.5% to 95.4%........40% could be anything from 39.5 to 40.4%.....etc....it just how BYD rounds the charge percentage.   And for a 100% charge percentage as soon as the charge drops to 99.4% in the OBD2 data the EV display will drop to 99% (but anything from 99.5 to 100% the EV still shows 100%)....kinda explains why going from 100% to 99% generally happens faster than from 99 to 98%, 50 to 49%, etc.  So, when you are watching your EV display the very second the charge percentage drops to say 80% you really have 80.4%, when it drops to 40 your really have 40.4%, etc.   

 

And when you are charging the EV at home like on the wall charger when say the charge percentage shows 90% it can be anything from 89.5% to 90.4% in the OBD2 data....so, the very moment the display charges to 90% you really have 89.5% charge per OBD2 data which displays to one decimal point regarding charge percentage.

 

Now for "real time" KW usage (repeat, real time usage) the OBD2 data displays to two decimal points....like 14.12KW, 12.89KW, etc.  So, when just setting at a red light at a dead stop with the A/C running if the EV displays say 1KW it could actually be using 1.00 to 1.99KW....if displaying 2KW it could actually be using 2.00 to 2.99KW, etc., and if the EV displays 0KW that does not mean you are not using any power as your A/C continues to hum along....it just means the A/C is using 0.99KW or less.    Basically, for real time KW usage it "rounds-down" to a whole number....ex: 0.99 or 0.50KW would round down to 0KW.......1.01 or 1.99KW would round down to 1KW.  For real time usage it just the way my Atto rounds and displays numbers....I expect other BYD models do it the same way....BYD rounds differently for certain parameters. 

 

Now, where the displays shows your KW usage "over the Past 50Km" extrapolated to represent KW/100Km that does display on the EV to the first decimal point like 12.6KW, 15.1KW, etc.

 

Anyway, it just so happens today I did around 150Km of driving over approx 2.5hrs...visited the MIL...the ambient temp was in the 37 to 39C ballpark....A/C set to 22C....at a stop light while my EV display would show 1KW being used, my OBD2 data shows around 1.5 to 1.8KW really being used.....even if I squeaked up to 1.99KW usage on OB2 data by lowering the temp a little the EV display would still show 1KW...but as soon as I hit 2.0KW the EV display would change to 2KW.    And when starting the A/C in the "MAX" mode where the A/C goes balls to the wall at 18C to quickly cool the car down the A/C can pull approx 3.25KW but as soon as it gets things cooled down somewhat it shifts to Auto mode and say to 22C then the KW usage will drop below 2KW....maybe go down close to or even below 1KW...a lot depends on just how hot the inside of the car is. 

 

 A few months ago when it was a lot cooler....more like around 30C everyday...with my A/C set to 22C at stop light the EV display would sometimes drop to 0KW....but as already mentioned I was still using power but it was just 0.99KW or less real world but the way the EV rounded down "real time" KW usage it makes it look like you are using less or very little power.   In closing and just to repeat although the "real time usage" which is changing/updating a couple times per second when it comes to actual consumption being reported like on the Past 50Km usage, total consumption since owning the car, etc., that is still being reporting to you to the first decimal point like 12.7Km, etc.

 

Yeap, OBD2 data will give a person more detailed KW usage....to the 1st or 2nd decimal point depending on what is being measured.  I got some info on battery temperature also but will leave that for another post.

 

 

Edited April 11 by Pib

[JBChiangRai]

15 minutes ago, Pib said:

 

The amount of KW being used at any point in time on the EV display represents all power traction battery usage occurring at that time....like if driving along with the A/C turned on and say just for discussion it showed around 13KW being used. In my BYD Atto assuming the car has already cooled down inside and it's a HOT day like today being around 37-39C around 1.5KW of that 13KW power usage would be from the A/C usage.  That works out to around 11 to 12% of the power being used....which also means if you could stand to drive without an A/C in 37-39C weather then your EV could probably get 11 to 12% more range. 

 

Now some BYD vehicle owners out there might ask, "Pib, how do you know its1.5KW since the EV KW real time usage only displays to whole number....does "not" reflect to a decimal point while driving....like 1.5, 14.2, 13.8KW, etc?"   

 

Well, it because I have used OBD2 data (i.e., an OBD2 dongle with a OBD2 app) while driving along which does provide readouts to 1 or 2 decimal points depending on the parameter being measured   For example, the Percent of Charge remaining only reflects whole numbers from 0 to 100% on the EV display but in OBD2 data it reflects to one decimal point....example: 95% displayed on the EV could be anything between 94.5% to 95.4%........40% could be anything from 39.5 to 40.4%.....etc....it just how BYD rounds the charge percentage.   And for a 100% charge percentage as soon as the charge drops to 99.4% in the OBD2 data the EV display will drop to 99% (but anything from 99.5 to 100% the EV still shows 100%)....kinda explains why going from 100% to 99% generally happens faster than from 99 to 98%, 50 to 49%, etc.  So, when you are watching your EV display the very second the charge percentage drops to say 80% you really have 80.4%, when it drops to 40 your really have 40.4%, etc.   

 

And when you are charging the EV at home like on the wall charger when say the charge percentage shows 90% it can be anything from 89.5% to 90.4% in the OBD2 data....so, the very moment the display charges to 90% you really have 89.5% charge per OBD2 data which displays to one decimal point regarding charge percentage.

 

Now for "real time" KW usage (repeat, real time usage) the OBD2 data displays to two decimal points....like 14.12KW, 12.89KW, etc.  So, when just setting at a red light at a dead stop with the A/C running if the EV displays say 1KW it could actually be using 1.00 to 1.99KW....if displaying 2KW it could actually be using 2.00 to 2.99KW, etc., and if the EV displays 0KW that does not mean you are not using any power as your A/C continues to hum along....it just means the A/C is using 0.99KW or less.    Basically, for real time KW usage it "rounds-down" to a whole number....ex: 0.99 or 0.50KW would round down to 0KW.......1.01 or 1.99KW would round down to 1KW.  For real time usage it just the way my Atto rounds and displays numbers....I expect other BYD models do it the same way....BYD rounds differently for certain parameters. 

 

Now, where the displays shows your KW usage "over the Past 50Km" extrapolated to represent KW/100Km that does display on the EV to the first decimal point like 12.6KW, 15.1KW, etc.

 

Anyway, it just so happens today I did around 150Km of driving over approx 2.5hrs...visited the MIL...the ambient temp was in the 37 to 39C ballpark....A/C set to 22C....at a stop light the while my EV display would show 1KW being used, but my OBD2 data shows around 1.5 to 1.8KW really being used.....even if I squeaked up to 1.99KW usage on OB2 data by lowering the temp a little the EV display would still show 1KW...but as soon as I hit 2.0KW the EV display would change to 2KW.    And when starting the A/C in the "MAX" mode where the A/C goes balls to the wall at 18C to quickly cool the car down the A/C can pull approx 3.25KW but as soon as it gets things cooled down somewhat it shifts to Auto mode and say to 22C then the KW usage will drop below 2KW....maybe go down close to or even below 1KW...a lot depends on just how hot the inside of the car is. 

 

 A few months ago when it was a lot cooler....more like around 30C everyday...with my A/C set to 22C at stop light the EV display would sometimes drop to 0KW....but as already mentioned I was still using power but it was just 0.99KW or less real world but the way the EV rounded down "real time" KW usage it makes it look like you are using less or very little power.   In closing and just to repeat although the "real time usage" which is changing/updating a couple times per second when it comes to actual consumption being reported like on the Past 50Km usage, total consumption since owning the car, etc., that is still being reporting to you to the first decimal point like 12.7Km, etc.

 

Yeap, OBD2 data will give a person more detailed KW usage....to the 1st or 2nd decimal point depending on what is being measured.  I got some info on battery temperature also but will leave that for another post.

 

 

Does your OBD device give you battery SoH?

[Pib]

10 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

Does your OBD device give you battery SoH?

No....or at least I haven't seen it anywhere. 

[Pib]

 

 

50 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

Does your OBD device give you battery SoH?

 

40 minutes ago, Pib said:

No....or at least I haven't seen it anywhere. 

 

Although it doesn't display SoH it's not hard to determine SoH.  You basically discharge the EV down to a very low percentage...the closer to zero percent the better....to zero would be the best.  If not discharging all the way to zero...say only to 1 or 2% left then be sure to apply a correction factor in the test for that remaining 1 to 2%.   Then using the power meter on your wall charger (either built-in meter or an external one you can add for just a couple hundred baht) to measure how many KWH input to the battery corrected for charging loss (charging loss is 9% between my wall charger and my Atto battery) and knowing my Atto battery KWH size I can determine SoH. A person can use the Accumulated Charge Energy OBD2 data for more accurate measurements which I did. 

 

I did a SoH check using this method a few months ago when the Atto had around 7,000Km on it and the SoH was 100%.   I started the test from only 2% charge, determined (i.e., a best estimate) on how many KWH charge that 2% represented based on distance efficiency of the 98 to 99%....then measured the amount of KWH to charge to 100% corrected for charging loss, and a little more math...when the calculating dust settled it showed I had a 100% SoH.   But as mentioned the Atto only had 7,000 Km and a few months under its belt...not really long enough to experience much of any battery degradation.

 

Tesla SoH test basically does it this way by first completely discharging the battery, measuring many KWH it takes to charge back to 100%, and then comparing that to the battery size....then it gives you a SoH readout based purely on it's OBD2 data.   But before it reached the point of being able to provide an updated SoH a complete discharge and recharge had to occur.    Youtubes indicate that test can take around 24 hours (or longer) on a Tesla.  Best to start the test from a low charge point to minimize the amount of time to fully discharge the battery for a person who drives a Tesla.

 

 

 

[vinny41]

7 hours ago, KhunLA said:

I wonder what the ICEV will be worth in 2034, with the ongoing tech improvements, cheaper batteries and price wars of EV.   if lucky, same petrol prices in 2034, doubtful as may be a niche market then.   

 

Who would be buying, as it's a hard sell now, especially if you are one to keep your vehicle 10-20 years.   Only those that can't charge at home, or impatiently on the road all the time are avoiding EV.

 

Degradation is minimal, as I calculated <4% over our 8 yr warranty period, based on 1 yr use & degradation.

Sales figures indicated it's a easy sell for ICEV

In 2022 pickup trucks accounted for 45.7% of all vehicles sold in Thailand.

and not many mainstream EV pickup trucks in Thailand

The stats show plenty of people buying ICEV in Thailand compared to EV

Total number of ICEV sales for 2024 R.Y.1 Private passenger car is 95,960

Total number of EV sales for 2024 R.Y.1 Private passenger car is 8,636

https://autolifethailand.tv/ev-register-march-2024-thailand/

ICEV value in 2034 will largely depend on availability if more people looking to purchase than numbers available price will increase 

If we want to look at niche market car buyers in Thailand this forum represents a niche market with approx 300,000 western expats living in Thailand

https://aseannow.com/topic/1320653-how-many-foreigners-living-in-thailand/

and the number of registered R.Y.1 cars in Thailand 11,949,739 as of March 2024

 

[KhunLA]

2 hours ago, vinny41 said:

Sales figures indicated it's a easy sell for ICEV

In 2022 pickup trucks accounted for 45.7% of all vehicles sold in Thailand.

and not many mainstream EV pickup trucks in Thailand

The stats show plenty of people buying ICEV in Thailand compared to EV

Total number of ICEV sales for 2024 R.Y.1 Private passenger car is 95,960

Total number of EV sales for 2024 R.Y.1 Private passenger car is 8,636

https://autolifethailand.tv/ev-register-march-2024-thailand/

ICEV value in 2034 will largely depend on availability if more people looking to purchase than numbers available price will increase 

If we want to look at niche market car buyers in Thailand this forum represents a niche market with approx 300,000 western expats living in Thailand

https://aseannow.com/topic/1320653-how-many-foreigners-living-in-thailand/

and the number of registered R.Y.1 cars in Thailand 11,949,739 as of March 2024

 

For now 

 

Pick ups are a whole different story.  They'll be around for a while, and sadly, diesel driven.   They don't seem to be in a hurry to put out an economically priced pickup.  Catering to the mine's bigger crowd with huge price tags.

Edited April 11 by KhunLA

[HighPriority]

By 2034 petrol costs will be a multiple of todays price.

Ice heads will be allowed to keep their chariots but they won’t be able to afford to run them.

[ExpatOilWorker]

Good read.

 

Final sales may land at only half of the 53,000 cars booked at the Bangkok International Motor Show.

The price war is not going to end very soon," said Naruedom Mujjalinkool at Krungsri Securities.

https://asia.nikkei.com/Business/Automobiles/Thai-car-production-faces-tough-year-despite-rising-EV-bookings

[BKKBike09]

3 hours ago, HighPriority said:

By 2034 petrol costs will be a multiple of todays price.

Ice heads will be allowed to keep their chariots but they won’t be able to afford to run them.

You can bet that governments will start to tax EV users more aggressively to make up for lost fuel taxes.

 

The advance of tech will make things like road use pricing much easier to implement. 

 

As EV adoption ticks up, the subsidised incentives to own are going to evaporate faster than water on a Bangkok pavement in April (bringing this back to EVs in Thailand).