ABS light turned on now bike won't start

[LS24]

4 hours ago, VocalNeal said:

 

 

I'm only familiar with leakdown tests on 2-strokes as that is how one checks the crankcase seals. Compression test should be good enough to check piston sealing.

 

The only reason i can see for a leakdown test on 4-strokes is that some have auto decompression systems to make starting easier, which makes accurate compression tests difficult. 

 How would you know if it was rings or valves allowing the pressure to escape from the chamber if you only did a compression test? A leak down test is a more thorough examination. A quick search shows this. https://dannysengineportal.com/cylinder-leak-down-test-findings-what-are-the-results-telling-you/

 

TL;DR but the photos seem to show the important stuff and it is quicker than me typing it.

[Kwasaki]

6 minutes ago, LS24 said:

 How would you know if it was rings or valves allowing the pressure to escape from the chamber if you only did a compression test? A leak down test is a more thorough examination. A quick search shows this. https://dannysengineportal.com/cylinder-leak-down-test-findings-what-are-the-results-telling-you/

 

TL;DR but the photos seem to show the important stuff and it is quicker than me typing it.

Both are just the same thing in reverse not that important unless your into a race machine.

 

On the Z650 a quick compression test is good enough if that all the the Kwacka workshop can do. 

[Kawazaki650R]

29 minutes ago, LS24 said:

 How would you know if it was rings or valves allowing the pressure to escape from the chamber if you only did a compression test? A leak down test is a more thorough examination. A quick search shows this. https://dannysengineportal.com/cylinder-leak-down-test-findings-what-are-the-results-telling-you/

 

TL;DR but the photos seem to show the important stuff and it is quicker than me typing it.

If a. Compression tests turn up normal there's still chance for a leak down test to show abnormalities? 

 

I've documented current oil levels and will keep a close check the next few weeks. 

[Kwasaki]

4 minutes ago, Kawazaki650R said:

If a. Compression tests turn up normal there's still chance for a leak down test to show abnormalities? 

 

I've documented current oil levels and will keep a close check the next few weeks. 

Well a leak down test probably  would it's not a new engine is it. 

[LS24]

4 hours ago, Kawazaki650R said:

Compression test within spec. 1295-1948. 

 

Should I ask them to check the Ecu or something else? Otherwise I'll just replace the spark plugs and change oil and keep a close look at oil levels for the next few weeks. 

Is 1295 for one cylinder and 1948 for the other? Or is one result wet and one dry? Generally you don't want to see more than 10-15% difference per cylinder when tested the same way.

 

 

 

 

20 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

Both are just the same thing in reverse not that important unless your into a race machine.

 

On the Z650 a quick compression test is good enough if that all the the Kwacka workshop can do. 

I respectfully disagree. A compression test might hide a lot of issues depending on how fast the crank is turned on an engine with a leaky valve or cracked head. Reason being that the short duration of compression time in a compression test may not leave enough time for the escape of enough gas in a short space of time. . A leak down test is just as simple to set up for in a workshop and is far more accurate.
 

 

Didn't the OP say they are getting coolant issues and oil issues? What better way to eliminate a whole bunch of issues than by doing a 10 minutes leakdown test. Long rides and getting hotter then fluids start to disappear? Hmmm..
 

 

And I'm not sure what you mean by "the same thing in reverse". A leak down test is usually performed by screwing in a fitting into the spark plug thread and then pressurising the cylinder when the valves are fully closed on that cylinder. A compression test has a gauge screwed or pressed into the plug thread and the pressure recorded as the engine is cranked.

1 minute ago, Kawazaki650R said:

If a. Compression tests turn up normal there's still chance for a leak down test to show abnormalities? 

 

I've documented current oil levels and will keep a close check the next few weeks. 

But Just ride it for now and monitor it as you said. Don't lose sleep over it. Also start to monitor the colour at the exit of your exhaust pipe.  Maybe take a photo after each ride. Remember if it was a short ride or a long ride. Things like that. I'm only sayign this to help you educate yourself. If you see blackis or grimy pipe end after a long ride that coinsides with oil reduction, you get a reasonable understanding of what is going on.

Also read that page I linked to before. I'm sure you will pick up plenty even thought it is for cars.

[Kwasaki]

9 minutes ago, LS24 said:

Is 1295 for one cylinder and 1948 for the other? Or is one result wet and one dry? Generally you don't want to see more than 10-15% difference per cylinder when tested the same way.

 

 

 

 

I respectfully disagree. A compression test might hide a lot of issues depending on how fast the crank is turned on an engine with a leaky valve or cracked head. Reason being that the short duration of compression time in a compression test may not leave enough time for the escape of enough gas in a short space of time. . A leak down test is just as simple to set up for in a workshop and is far more accurate.
 

 

Didn't the OP say they are getting coolant issues and oil issues? What better way to eliminate a whole bunch of issues than by doing a 10 minutes leakdown test. Long rides and getting hotter then fluids start to disappear? Hmmm..
 

 

And I'm not sure what you mean by "the same thing in reverse". A leak down test is usually performed by screwing in a fitting into the spark plug thread and then pressurising the cylinder when the valves are fully closed on that cylinder. A compression test has a gauge screwed or pressed into the plug thread and the pressure recorded as the engine is cranked.

But Just ride it for now and monitor it as you said. Don't lose sleep over it. Also start to monitor the colour at the exit of your exhaust pipe.  Maybe take a photo after each ride. Remember if it was a short ride or a long ride. Things like that. I'm only sayign this to help you educate yourself. If you see blackis or grimy pipe end after a long ride that coinsides with oil reduction, you get a reasonable understanding of what is going on.

Also read that page I linked to before. I'm sure you will pick up plenty even thought it is for cars.

I don't thinks there is much wrong with his bike he should just ride it. 

 

What kilos it's done would help on condition of engine seatings etc. 

 

If he wants the engine split and checked out depending what they find its around 15,000baht in costs but he would get more or less a new engine.  

[Kawazaki650R]

39 minutes ago, LS24 said:

Is 1295 for one cylinder and 1948 for the other? Or is one result wet and one dry? Generally you don't want to see more than 10-15% difference per cylinder when tested the same way.

 

 

 

 

I respectfully disagree. A compression test might hide a lot of issues depending on how fast the crank is turned on an engine with a leaky valve or cracked head. Reason being that the short duration of compression time in a compression test may not leave enough time for the escape of enough gas in a short space of time. . A leak down test is just as simple to set up for in a workshop and is far more accurate.
 

 

Didn't the OP say they are getting coolant issues and oil issues? What better way to eliminate a whole bunch of issues than by doing a 10 minutes leakdown test. Long rides and getting hotter then fluids start to disappear? Hmmm..
 

 

And I'm not sure what you mean by "the same thing in reverse". A leak down test is usually performed by screwing in a fitting into the spark plug thread and then pressurising the cylinder when the valves are fully closed on that cylinder. A compression test has a gauge screwed or pressed into the plug thread and the pressure recorded as the engine is cranked.

But Just ride it for now and monitor it as you said. Don't lose sleep over it. Also start to monitor the colour at the exit of your exhaust pipe.  Maybe take a photo after each ride. Remember if it was a short ride or a long ride. Things like that. I'm only sayign this to help you educate yourself. If you see blackis or grimy pipe end after a long ride that coinsides with oil reduction, you get a reasonable understanding of what is going on.

Also read that page I linked to before. I'm sure you will pick up plenty even thought it is for cars.

I did have weird coolant issues like 6 months before nothing now. Had various weird issues since I've owned it but only once or twice. Guess it's a ghost bike so to speak... 

 

 

I'm not mechanically inclined as you might have guessed so I'm not sure what kawasaki meant by the numbers but they said no problem. 

 

I've had oil leaks before but we changed all the gaskets and no more "external leaks" anymore at least. 

 

Bike runs fine without any wierd sounds in general. Only slight problem is it's harder to start when hot. Old battery died on me. Bought new one. Much better but still harder to start than cold. 

 

But it seems to drink oil. 

[xtrnuno41]

Rectifier not working proper anymore, especially when getting hot?

No charging of battery, weird voltages running in system?

[transam]

2 minutes ago, xtrnuno41 said:

Rectifier not working proper anymore, especially when getting hot?

No charging of battery, weird voltages running in system?

Different heat range of plugs, more like. Did the OP buy plugs on Lazada...?    ????

[Kwasaki]

4 minutes ago, xtrnuno41 said:

Rectifier not working proper anymore, especially when getting hot?

No charging of battery, weird voltages running in system?

Computer plug in will show a rectifier fault and other electronic faults if the Kwackas dealer are capable of doing the analysis properly and correct the faults if any. 

 

Been there done it got the T shirt with my Versys 650 I had. 

[xtrnuno41]

7 minutes ago, transam said:

Different heat range of plugs, more like. Did the OP buy plugs on Lazada...?    ????

My Bking had once a call back from factory to change rectifier. I didnt had any problems with the old one, but changed it. Later on got problems and changed battery. The battery was on age. I could start when cold, but when i had drove it and all was hot, nada, So short cutting in battery when getting hot? Or rectifier, but that one was new?

It worked good again after replacement battery.

However later on, got another call back from company, again to change rectifier.

I called them and yes my first replacement was again questionable and therefor again change. Old battery more vulnerable for it?

However never had popping up warning lights.

As I drove it too less, i decided to sell it.

 Marvelous bike, sometimes i regret

[Kwasaki]

14 hours ago, xtrnuno41 said:

My Bking had once a call back from factory to change rectifier. I didnt had any problems with the old one, but changed it. Later on got problems and changed battery. The battery was on age. I could start when cold, but when i had drove it and all was hot, nada, So short cutting in battery when getting hot? Or rectifier, but that one was new?

It worked good again after replacement battery.

However later on, got another call back from company, again to change rectifier.

I called them and yes my first replacement was again questionable and therefor again change. Old battery more vulnerable for it?

However never had popping up warning lights.

As I drove it too less, i decided to sell it.

 Marvelous bike, sometimes i regret

Yes some rectifiers on OEM new bikes can be trouble and worth the replacement, on my old Blade when got her fired up after 6•5 years not running the rectifier voltage readings were not good. 

 

I sorced one compatible for my Blade from England who supplies all advanced aftermarket  electronic part's to race teams and public as a whole. 

Got a starter relay from them to. 

Not cheap but superior to Honda OEM parts. 

[Kwasaki]

15 hours ago, transam said:

Different heat range of plugs, more like. Did the OP buy plugs on Lazada...?    ????

Better he bought from Kwackas the saving is not worth the risk.

He would get a genuine iridium plug.

Edited May 16, 2023 by Kwasaki

[Kawazaki650R]

1 hour ago, Kwasaki said:

Better he bought from Kwackas the saving is not worth the risk.

He would get a genuine iridium plug.

From kawa as per recommendations ????????

[LS24]

16 hours ago, xtrnuno41 said:

My Bking had once a call back from factory to change rectifier. I didnt had any problems with the old one, but changed it. Later on got problems and changed battery. The battery was on age. I could start when cold, but when i had drove it and all was hot, nada, So short cutting in battery when getting hot? Or rectifier, but that one was new?

It worked good again after replacement battery.

However later on, got another call back from company, again to change rectifier.

I called them and yes my first replacement was again questionable and therefor again change. Old battery more vulnerable for it?

However never had popping up warning lights.

As I drove it too less, i decided to sell it.

 Marvelous bike, sometimes i regret

Suzuki had several years of models with dodgy rectifier/regulators. Have a look on a Suzuki motorcycle recall register and you will see years of GSXRs, Busas, SVs, V Stroms and by the sound of it, your B King, too.

[Kwasaki]

21 minutes ago, LS24 said:

Suzuki had several years of models with dodgy rectifier/regulators. Have a look on a Suzuki motorcycle recall register and you will see years of GSXRs, Busas, SVs, V Stroms and by the sound of it, your B King, too.

Faults with a bad batch of units I guess. 

Kawasaki had a batch problem with potential valve failures.

The Bandit 1200 I had in UK was one of favorite bikes, never missed beat. 

[CharlieH]

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