Most Interesting Places In Issan To Live?

[canadiangirl]

Hey guys,

I might be coming to Issan to do some research and writing. Does anyone have a particular corner of Issan to recommend as being interesting, or a good place to get the "flavor" of Issan? I realize it's a big place.

This is a bit of a mish-mash of things I'm interested in:

- the cycle of the rice harvest, and other important crops

- the economic impact of money sent home by people working in Bangkok, wealthier parts of Thailand and abroad

- morlam, and other forms of local music and arts

- country monasteries, the role of monasteries in educating the young, religion in the daily lives of people

- schools, how good are they? what do kids learn?

- variations in local culture (I know some bits have Khmer influences, some bits Laos influences, etc)

Nothing too formal (I don't like studying people like moths under a magnifying glass) -- mostly just hanging around and talking to people. I'd be coming for several months.

Thank you in advance for any advice.

[macb]

You would probably be best starting at the Top of Issan and moving around ie North South East and West

If you look at my Buriram Topic you will find some useful links I have posted there

[ronthompson]

Macb very well may be right but I believe starting in Buriram, one of the many villages in the area would supply you a wealth of information. Must admit however I live in the area I am very fond of the place and people.

[mailman]

You might want to start by looking at this web site: http://www.pirasudham.com/home.shtml

Pira Sudham has written many good books about the people of Isaan and way of life, written in English.

Send him an email. Good luck.

[Thaddeus]

That's one way to do it Mac, but here's another suggestion.

Pick one city, based on my location I would recommend Buriram, Surin or Khorat because I know them all well. Spend a few weeks in rented accommodation inside the city, you won't get much experience of farming but you will learn much about education, medical facilities and the role of the temples.

Then move out to one of the smaller surrounding towns for a while and repeat the process.

If you are still up for it, try a small village on the outskirts of the town. There you will learn much about farming, and survival.

Moving from one area of Isaan to another will teach you about the differences between the various provinces, which to be honest are not vast in number. Choosing one location and experiencing the difference between city, town and village life will teach you so much more.

[canadiangirl]

That's one way to do it Mac, but here's another suggestion.

Pick one city, based on my location I would recommend Buriram, Surin or Khorat because I know them all well. Spend a few weeks in rented accommodation inside the city, you won't get much experience of farming but you will learn much about education, medical facilities and the role of the temples.

Then move out to one of the smaller surrounding towns for a while and repeat the process.

If you are still up for it, try a small village on the outskirts of the town. There you will learn much about farming, and survival.

Moving from one area of Isaan to another will teach you about the differences between the various provinces, which to be honest are not vast in number. Choosing one location and experiencing the difference between city, town and village life will teach you so much more.

Thanks Thaddeus! This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping for. Is it relatively easy for a farang to rent accomodation in Burinam, Surin or Khorat?

Your suggestions sound like really good ideas. Thank you.

[canadiangirl]

Macb very well may be right but I believe starting in Buriram, one of the many villages in the area would supply you a wealth of information. Must admit however I live in the area I am very fond of the place and people.

Thanks for the info ronthompson! May I ask what you like about it? (Maybe it will give me some ideas! )

[mackayae]

Loie

Roi-et (good rice farming)

Chaiyaphum (good rice farming)

I would stay away from the larger towns. Forget Korat city, they don't even speak pasa isaan there.

[Aujuba]

Korat is the gateway to the northeast but if you really want to see the northeast move out away from it. Issan is a very wide area. When you are away from the KFCs, McDonald's and 7 Elevens surrounded by rice fields, you're there.

[my friend I]

If you try a town on the Mehkong you can see "the economic impact" of doing business with Laos

[farangconnection]

I would sugest Kong Chiam on the Mehkong. As well as being one of the most beautiful towns around, it is full of budget guest houses, and if you really want somewhere swank, the Toshang resort in Kong Chiam is one of the nicest hotels in Eastern Thailand. You are right in the center of all the National Parks. For more info please go to my web-site.

[Thaddeus]

Is it relatively easy for a farang to rent accomodation in Burinam, Surin or Khorat?

It's easy to find accommodation in any of the main cities in Isaan (I do agree with the others comments about Khorat though) and even the smaller towns, quite a few will have some sort of 'Resort' ..... local knowledge will be required though.

It's when you want to spend any length of time out in the boonies that you will really need some help from a forum member, either someone who knows of a small house for short term rent, or someone who has enough space to accommodate you themselves without getting in your way too much, and vice versa.

Many members in here can make recommendations about good places to stay and points of interest in the major conurbations, even in provinces where they don't actually live as quite a few of us are very well- travelled throughout the entire region. But when you want to wander outside of civilisation for a while, you will need good, in-depth, local knowledge. There is plenty of that in here, but you will need to decide where you want to try well before you travel.

[thedi]

I would suggest that you try to stay in small places, Amphors instead of Changwats.

You may try any Amphor to begin with, where there is a hotel or guest house. In Korat Phimai would be a possibility. In Khon Kaen Ban Phai. But there are many others. Not every Amphor has a hotel, but many have.

I would suggest a motorbike to get around. With public transport you always have the problem that you have to say where you want to go to. You can not buy a ticket to 'just look around'.

I assume you are quite fluent in Thai. Otherwise you would need an interpretor.

Like everywhere in Thailand you will find at least a noodle shop in every village. This is a good starting point to get into contact with the locals: eat or drink something in the local food stalls. With your own motorbike you can go to the smallest and most remote village to drink a coke. You will not have problems to met the people

In some villages are Home Stay programs (in Thai 'hom sa-tey'). This is organized from the government. You can stay with a Thai family, eat with them, and in the morning they will even show you how to put rice in the bowls of the passing monks. If you book this through the government channels, it is rather expensive. But if you find out where such villages are (hint: Thai tourist attractions), you can go there on your own. Houses which accept guests are clearly marked with a sign 'Home Stay'. In our village this sings are made of a piece of wood, the writing is in a white color. Once you stand in front of their house, the prices are negotiable and should be much cheaper than through the official channels (where other parties seem to take most of the profits).

I am sure, you will enjoy Isarn.

Regards Thedi

[canadiangirl]

Thank you to everyone for posting such great replies! Your suggestions are very helpful, thank you. :-)

[citizen33]

Thank you to everyone for posting such great replies! Your suggestions are very helpful, thank you. :-)

The suggestions that you already have seem good, especially the one to sample city, town and village. I wondered if there is a formal academic dimension to your trip? If so, it might be worth thinking about establishing communication with academics at one of the regional universities, many of whom like to receive Western visitors. The Research Institute of Northeastern Art and Culture at Mahasarakham University might be a possibility. There are academics at both Khon Kaen and MSU who have studied the impact of external influences (employment-based migration and inter-cultural marriages) on traditional Isaan culture. The heartland provinces of Khon Kaen, Maha Sarakham, Kalasin and Roi Et would be good for observing the cycle of the rice harvests. Ubon also has a growing university and interests in the sub-Mekong region and its cultures. If you go too far south, into the territory of some of our regular posters, Khymer influences become more important and I think you would be better concentrating on Lao areas - just one more opinion. As observed above, very few ordinary people in these areas speak English - though most academics do to some extent,

[XiengHai]

Loie

Roi-et (good rice farming)

Chaiyaphum (good rice farming)

I would stay away from the larger towns. Forget Korat city, they don't even speak pasa isaan there.

Loie is a great place to start,

visit the famous "Stupa of Love between 2 nations" placed there in the 16th century by King Chakraphat (Ayuthaya) and King Setthaya (Lanxang)

there u will get a sense of the region before all this nationlism came about in most recent history

just take a boat down the Mekong, and u will get a sense of the connection of Isaan ppl and where they came from, u will see the distinction very clear, and why they talk the way they talk, think the way they think, and see where this culture came from.

visit NongKhai, if u get the chance cross over to Vientiane

visit Nakorn Panom, and cross over to Thakhet

u will see the ppl are not different at all, from Nakorn Panom start heading west to Kon Kean and visit the temple memorial of Phraya Niran, a great Cheiftian of the Isaan ppl in the 19th century, during the war of independence of Isaan from Siam. of course we know the outcome, Isaan is apart of Siam/Thailand today.

but as someone said, the heart of cultural traditions of Isaan is along the Mekong, and thus spread Westard. the closer u get to Bangkok, the more u will see the influence of Bangkok, Isaan was named Isaan on the basis that it is Northeast (meaning of Isaan in sanskrit) of Bangkok.

if u visit the southern cities, u will get the sense of the Khmer influence in Thailand

[gstallones]

Hey guys,

I might be coming to Issan to do some research and writing. Does anyone have a particular corner of Issan to recommend as being interesting, or a good place to get the "flavor" of Issan? I realize it's a big place.

This is a bit of a mish-mash of things I'm interested in:

- the cycle of the rice harvest, and other important crops

- the economic impact of money sent home by people working in Bangkok, wealthier parts of Thailand and abroad

- morlam, and other forms of local music and arts

- country monasteries, the role of monasteries in educating the young, religion in the daily lives of people

- schools, how good are they? what do kids learn?

- variations in local culture (I know some bits have Khmer influences, some bits Laos influences, etc)

Nothing too formal (I don't like studying people like moths under a magnifying glass) -- mostly just hanging around and talking to people. I'd be coming for several months.

Thank you in advance for any advice.

[canadiangirl]

Thank you again to everyone for these excellent replies! You've given me many, many good ideas. Hopefully I might have the chance to buy some of you a beer or two in Issan if my plan works out!

I hope this isn't too ignorant an question: would central thai be good enough to get around, or do many people speak only Issan or another dialect?

thank you!

[phibunmike]

Thank you again to everyone for these excellent replies! You've given me many, many good ideas. Hopefully I might have the chance to buy some of you a beer or two in Issan if my plan works out!

I hope this isn't too ignorant an question: would central thai be good enough to get around, or do many people speak only Issan or another dialect?

thank you!

To add to the many helpful suggestions you have already received:

Of course, I will promote Ubon Ratchathani, as it is my home changwat. But actually to see the rice, temples, etc., you can go anywhere in Isaan. Surin will give you a more divers sample of different influences (Khmer, Suay, etc.); however around Surin and Buriram (and also Udon Thani) you will also find much greater farang influence than some other areas. In my little corner of Isaan we are still fairly rare and I like that. For me, Khorat is simply too big and urban - but these things are subjective.

I agree that Khong Chiam is nice, personally I find that the Mekong has a magical draw to it and love to spend time nearby. You can also explore Laos from there and thus compare Isaan with their cousins across the river.

Most Isaan people understand Thai - but you often won't understand what the villagers say back to you (well, that is my experience, anyway). I have most success speaking with young children, who not only learn Thai at school, but also understand the concept of "not understanding". One little girl in our village has delighted me by sitting with me, pointing to objects, then putting her hand to her ear to signal that I should say the word for the object. We have spent ages playing this game. I in turn teach her the English word.

I am sure you will have a wonderful experience in Isaan, enjoy it!

[Thaddeus]

I hope this isn't too ignorant an question: would central thai be good enough to get around, or do many people speak only Issan or another dialect?

Central Thai will be fine almost anywhere, you may have a problem with the old folks in the rural areas but even then there will be someone there who will understand you.

[roietjimmy]

- the cycle of the rice harvest, and other important crops

- the economic impact of money sent home by people working in Bangkok, wealthier parts of Thailand and abroad

- morlam, and other forms of local music and arts

To get the most out of your visit re the above, make sure you plan to stay November through January. This will allow you to obsereve and participate in the rice harvest and related festivites. Lots of Morlam concerts and many people who work outside Isaan return home for harvest season.

[Maigo6]

- the cycle of the rice harvest, and other important crops

- the economic impact of money sent home by people working in Bangkok, wealthier parts of Thailand and abroad

- morlam, and other forms of local music and arts

To get the most out of your visit re the above, make sure you plan to stay November through January. This will allow you to obsereve and participate in the rice harvest and related festivites. Lots of Morlam concerts and many people who work outside Isaan return home for harvest season.

And its cooler!

[mackayae]

I would suggest that you try to stay in small places, Amphors instead of Changwats.

Amphurs are subdivisions of a changwat. Amphur Mueang being the city.

For example, Changwat Khon Kaen has 20 amphurs and 9 subamphurs. The city of Khon Kaen is located in Amphur Mueang Khon Kaen. The city of Khon Kaen is sometimes referred to as the capitol of Isaan. Khon Kaen University, arguably the best university in Isaan, is located in Khon Kaen city. Maybe that's a good place to start.

[Khun Bob]

I stayed in Khon Kaen for 3 months as I wanted to get a flavour of isaan - it is quite easy and reasonably priced to get accomodation, plus there is good transport links to all other parts of isaan. To get out in to the country side i just went to the non air con bus station (bor kor saw) and took a ride in a songthiew to where ever it was going and saw some of the local villages - if you speak central thai you will get by.

Plus the University there is great and if you get to know some of the people there may open other doors - may be an idea to contact them before you go with a proposal of you work and they may want to have a collaboration on work with you toward a publication ! Its not difficult to get an article published in a conference. Plus you could also start blogging your experiences - take lots of photos and videos - would be great stuff for a website.

If you go along to some of the village schools and talk to them you may be able to give some advice to the teachers on english or even help a bit with some of the lessons (work permits aside) - this will open doors as well as you will be asked along to family meals and other events.

At Loy Kratong and Thai New Year there will be lots of entertainment - you should see morlam, morlam sing, likkae, and maybe some look thung. Plus there will be story telling.

I considered getting an apartment in KK Uni as it is a lovely campus, has alot of facilities, Thai students are very helpful, and you dont look so out of place there (they think you are a teacher or a foreign student, rather then a tourist) - but I didnt stay there - I stayed more centrally in KK. I havent been to that many places in isaan, but have to say the variety, quality and value of street food in KK is best I have experienced in Thailand.

I think most people will have a favorite place in isaan and will vouch for that. I guess best advice is to pick a place that is easier to start off with till you get the ropes then go further afield.

[canadiangirl]

Thank you to everyone for posting such great replies! Your suggestions are very helpful, thank you. :-)

The suggestions that you already have seem good, especially the one to sample city, town and village. I wondered if there is a formal academic dimension to your trip? If so, it might be worth thinking about establishing communication with academics at one of the regional universities, many of whom like to receive Western visitors. The Research Institute of Northeastern Art and Culture at Mahasarakham University might be a possibility. There are academics at both Khon Kaen and MSU who have studied the impact of external influences (employment-based migration and inter-cultural marriages) on traditional Isaan culture. The heartland provinces of Khon Kaen, Maha Sarakham, Kalasin and Roi Et would be good for observing the cycle of the rice harvests. Ubon also has a growing university and interests in the sub-Mekong region and its cultures. If you go too far south, into the territory of some of our regular posters, Khymer influences become more important and I think you would be better concentrating on Lao areas - just one more opinion. As observed above, very few ordinary people in these areas speak English - though most academics do to some extent,

Citizen33, these are great suggestions, I would have not have thought of these ideas. If do manage to come down to Issan, I will definitely check check these out.

Thank you so much!

[canadiangirl]

- the cycle of the rice harvest, and other important crops

- the economic impact of money sent home by people working in Bangkok, wealthier parts of Thailand and abroad

- morlam, and other forms of local music and arts

To get the most out of your visit re the above, make sure you plan to stay November through January. This will allow you to obsereve and participate in the rice harvest and related festivites. Lots of Morlam concerts and many people who work outside Isaan return home for harvest season.

Ah, thanks for the heads up. I was actually meaning to look into when harvest season was, so i didn't just arrive when everything was over! Thanks for telling me.

[canadiangirl]

Hey guys,

I'm trying to reply to as many of you personally as I can, but I never expected to get this many great replies, so I just want to say a great big thank you to all of you in the meantime! There's a ton of great info here.

I hope this isn't too mushy and sentimental but it's really heartwarming to see a good number of farang who feel proud and love the place that they live.

My own grandmother lived and farmed and hunted on the land, so I have a feeling that Issan might be the kind of place that she would like, so that's part of the reason I want to go see it.

[phibunmike]

- the cycle of the rice harvest, and other important crops

- the economic impact of money sent home by people working in Bangkok, wealthier parts of Thailand and abroad

- morlam, and other forms of local music and arts

To get the most out of your visit re the above, make sure you plan to stay November through January. This will allow you to obsereve and participate in the rice harvest and related festivites. Lots of Morlam concerts and many people who work outside Isaan return home for harvest season.

Ah, thanks for the heads up. I was actually meaning to look into when harvest season was, so i didn't just arrive when everything was over! Thanks for telling me.

I think November might be a little late for the harvest, no? Last year we harvested in October.

I certainly think catching Loy Krathong is a great idea.

Following up on citizen33's ideas about universities, if you do come to Ubon I can put you in touch with a couple of university lecturers (professors to North Americans) who are farang but who hopefully could introduce you to others more in your fields of interest.

[macb]

Apart from the actual town life it seems to me that you need to spend some time actually in a village to appreciate day to day life : (And the tale about Cockerels starting at dawn is not true in my village they think dawn is 2 am 3 am 4 am and so on mmmmmmmmmmm)

Also read my Topic on village life some good input there, but not the same as experiencing it in reality

[Martin]

I only know Khon Kaen and Udon and the area between, but you would get all you are looking for by basing yourself in and among the students at Khon Kaen University.

On the southern edge of the campus (between the campus and the road from the centre of the city to the Airport) there is all you would need---accommodation that fits students' budgets, motor bike hire, foodstalls and, above all, students whose 'brains you can pick'.

On campus there is a branch of AUA and a whole corridor of staffrooms inhabited by farangs who teach English.

In the next building (H6, I think---anyway it is the only single-storey in the group of Humanities and Social Studies buildings) there is a branch of the "Wellbeing in Developing Countries" project.

That is headquartered at Bath University in the UK, but has branches in four countries, one of which is Thailand. From time to time there are postgrad students over from Bath, studying things like village-to-city migration flows.

I have just done a retiree's MA on "Return of the Village Daughters from the West" about aspects of possible reverse migrations to come, and am starting on a study of the potential of KKU to host Western students for studies of a few weeks duration up to three years of undergrad and postgrad degrees. I would appreciate the opportunity to 'debrief' you at the end of your stay, if you come to Khon Kaen, even though you aren't going to be an enrolled student.

I'll send you a PM with my e-mail address.

PS Mac is exactly right about the cockerels.

They are most useful for those who have to get up to start their day early.

The 2am one wakes those who have to go to the wholesale market in the city to bring things to the Amphur market, the 3am one wakes those who.... and so on.

I'll be darned if I can tell the voice of one from the other, but my ears weren't trained in childhood in an Isaan village.

If you can, get yourself a copy of "A Child of the North East" by K. Boontawee (1976) and of "The Thai Village Economy in the Past" by Chatthip Nartsupha (1999). They will give you ideas of what to look for, and how to interpret what you see (and hear), in the villages.