Hydroponic Farming

[Scoop1]

Hi all, they look sensational rice, the tomato dry matter content is great, and it could even be improved a little more along with the taste, by raising the Nutrient to EC 3.0 - 3.5 when you have lots of good fruit set, but don't forget Part C stays at the dilution rate of 1-100, if you do that you will not need to use Part D, because excessive levels of Potassium will cause antagonism with the Calcium and you will end up with BER { blossom end rot } as you already know,

Cheers

Scoop

Ps - Very impressive plants rice !!!

[rice555]

Hello All, Scoop, I'm really happy with the nutes, the weather has been

something else this year, should have gone by last years time frame.

I'm using the part A to D, but was only doing EC 2.10.

Had some BER on the Indigo Apples, but only on some plants, none on

the Pink Berkley Tie Dye. And latter to an unidentified tom, which I'll post

a pic of one of it's clusters. The first 2 fruit formed and the weather went

tits up and after rain and cold, the last 3 started growing and one blossom

never made it.

A sliced IA and a PBTD on the scale.

If your saying 3.0-3.5 EC, these are OP's? What about Hyb. Mex Chilies EC

at blossom or fruit set?????

rice555 Thanks!!!

[Scoop1]

Hi all, Rice, use EC 3.0 after you have good fruit set, and then raise it to EC 3.5 when you have a good fruit loading and the fruit is expanding, if you use this type of water stress manipulation on chilli's you can make them a little hotter, as for Part D , don't use it unless you see early signs of a potassium deficiency, at EC 3.0 you will have 438 ppm of potassium and at EC 3.5 you will have 511 ppm of potassium so you should not need Part D, it does not matter whether they are hybrids or heirlooms.

Cheers

Scoop

[rice555]

Hello All, Scoop I will try the higher EC-Part D out on some plants in a

few months, what am I looking for at EC of the leachate?

The first toms I grew in LOS hydroponicly was a 250g Black Krim and

a 300g Beefsteak.

This year with saved seeds from last year with the the new nute formula

I have exceeded last season in amount and size of fruit, I'm a happy

camper.

I wish I could figure out what the red tom is??? It's with my PBTD's and

I don't remember any other tom seed started besides Black Cherry which

we know it's not, nor IE or PBTD, must be having a senior moment.

The red one is a good performer anyways, and are good size. The red on

the scale shows some sun scald as I thought it was a PBTD so left it a

little exposed to the sun, this is one of the larger ones.

The rest of the pic's are self explanatory.

rice555

[rice555]

Hi all, Rice, use EC 3.0 after you have good fruit set, and then raise it to EC 3.5 when you have a good fruit loading and the fruit is expanding, if you use this type of water stress manipulation on chilli's you can make them a little hotter, as for Part D , don't use it unless you see early signs of a potassium deficiency, at EC 3.0 you will have 438 ppm of potassium and at EC 3.5 you will have 511 ppm of potassium so you should not need Part D, it does not matter whether they are hybrids or heirlooms.

Cheers

Scoop

Hello All, Scoop I need clarification on the EC 3./3.5 and the part C.

I need to use as much A & B to get EC 3./3.5 and then only add

part C 1 to 100.???

So when I mix up my working stock, for the size container I mix up

1.5L of A & B to get EC 3., I should only use .5L of C??

I maybe just having a senior moment and need to watch a movie

instead of trying to think, or could be that it's cold again here, 23C.

rice555

[Scoop1]

Hi Rice, you need to buy a calculator, haha, here we go,

Tomato Formula

EC - 2.5 = Dilution Rate of 1-100, = 100ml of Part A and 100ml of Part B in 10 litres of water

EC - 3.0 = Dilution Rate of 1- 83, = 120ml of Part A and 100ml of Part B in 10 litres of water

EC - 3.5 = Dilution Rate of 1- 71, = 140ml of Part A and 100ml of Part B in 10 litres of water

EC - 4.0 = Dilution Rate of 1- 62, = 160ml of Part A and 100ml of Part B in 10 litres of water

EC - 4.5 = Dilution Rate of 1- 55, = 180ml of Part A and 180ml of Part B in 10 litres of water

Ok, now with the Part C it stays at Dilution Rate of 1-100 = 100ml of Part C in 10 litres of water when you go over EC 2.5, when you go under EC 2.5 then you use it at equal amounts with Part A and Part B

If you don't understand something, let me know!!

Hope that helps you understand how it works

Cheers

Scoop

[Scoop1]

Hello All, Scoop I will try the higher EC-Part D out on some plants in a

few months, what am I looking for at EC of the leachate?

The first toms I grew in LOS hydroponicly was a 250g Black Krim and

a 300g Beefsteak.

This year with saved seeds from last year with the the new nute formula

I have exceeded last season in amount and size of fruit, I'm a happy

camper.

I wish I could figure out what the red tom is??? It's with my PBTD's and

I don't remember any other tom seed started besides Black Cherry which

we know it's not, nor IE or PBTD, must be having a senior moment.

The red one is a good performer anyways, and are good size. The red on

the scale shows some sun scald as I thought it was a PBTD so left it a

little exposed to the sun, this is one of the larger ones.

The rest of the pic's are self explanatory.

rice555

Woww, they are Class A Tomatoes Rice, well done

Scoop

[rice555]

Hello All, Scoop I will try the higher EC-Part D out on some plants in a

few months, what am I looking for at EC of the leachate?

The first toms I grew in LOS hydroponicly was a 250g Black Krim and

a 300g Beefsteak.

This year with saved seeds from last year with the the new nute formula

I have exceeded last season in amount and size of fruit, I'm a happy

camper.

I wish I could figure out what the red tom is??? It's with my PBTD's and

I don't remember any other tom seed started besides Black Cherry which

we know it's not, nor IE or PBTD, must be having a senior moment.

The red one is a good performer anyways, and are good size. The red on

the scale shows some sun scald as I thought it was a PBTD so left it a

little exposed to the sun, this is one of the larger ones.

The rest of the pic's are self explanatory.

rice555

Woww, they are Class A Tomatoes Rice, well done

Scoop

Thanks Scoop, I got messed up with 100%, all is well now as it was

just a brain fart.

Will start the EC 3. on some fruiting toms and see and then bump it

up to EC 3.5 if all looks.

thanks Again.

rice555

[Scoop1]

Hi Rice, don't be afraid to take it up to EC 4.0 and EC 4.5

Cheers

Scoop

[rice555]

Hello All, that's means I need another bag of calcium nitrate Scoop and I need

to mix 4 X 10L batch instead of 2 X, or Ill be using the scale every few days if I

go to 4.-4.5 EC. My US seed money is now going to 25Kg bags of chems

I'm getting some more plants going now and starting to set things up ahead of

time so I'll just need to transplant and it's off to the races.

Out under the shade of the mango tree, I got most done, just a few more trays

to go. I trying a new Th. sweet pepper, showing before everything but the cucks.

As usual my monthly Ag mag is of much interest to me and dirt and hydro are

covered, and it's the leading stories, not short back page article.

May have to dust off my 500L tank and leave the barrel behind now.

rice555

[Scoop1]

That all sounds good rice, if your worried about it just take it to EC 3.0 then bump it up after two weeks to 3.5 and then to 4.0 two weeks later, and see how it goes, I am trying to get a photo for you to show you what it looks like.

Cheers

Scoop

[rice555]

Hello All, Scoop, it's time to cull most of the plants. The past 3 days of high heat

and the output is not wort the input. Fruit size is down by 1/3-1/2 of previous.

My new plants are about 40 days till the can be T-P, will get my coir in order for

bag filling.

With the EC 3.0, it was ascot in the arm for some of the tom's and chillies, but

the plants got a poor start.

Here's some pic's of the unknown red tom and some of the PBTD's really are

a beautiful and flavorful tom. The pic's of the PBTD are the same 2, just the top

to show the color off.

rice555

[Scoop1]

Hi all, rice, the fruit looks very impressive but the fungus would have caused big problems, when you grow with the double truss system that I use, the leaves are of paramount importance, if I loose a couple of leaves off a plant it makes a huge difference in fruit size, so I am very cautious with pest and disease pressure and have a spray program to combat the fungus.

Cheers

Scoop

Ps - those last two pics look very very similar to a "Tigerella"

[CLW]

Reading your posts here I assume it's not a good time to grow tomatoes right now. What will happen if I do it anyway?

Culture would be in the greenhouse in hydroponics.

[rice555]

Hello All, CLW, do you mean starting plants? I'm doing a few of the

Chadwick Cherries that I got the 2 dropped fruit at the Korat Ag Show.

2 seed in each cup and seem to be doing OK, we've been at 99-102 the

last 5 days, these are in the shade of a mango tree.

But if your growing tom's, the high can slow things down and also effect

the size of the fruit, it's just my poor growing technique.

rice555

[CLW]

Thanks rice, yes I meant starting to grow them now.

Okay, as it not appears to be impossible, I will give it a try.

[Asernume]

Sorry to ask again, but don't any of you use beneficial bacteria as prevention against pythium ?

Where can I buy this in Thailand ?

[CLW]

Sorry to ask again, but don't any of you use beneficial bacteria as prevention against pythium ?

Where can I buy this in Thailand ?

Which bacteria you have in mind?

Beside that I read that a milk/water solution 1:10 could be also used.

Anyone has experience with that?

[Asernume]

Which bacteria you have in mind?

Beside that I read that a milk/water solution 1:10 could be also used.

Anyone has experience with that?

Nothing specific, as I am not sure we will have that much choice in Thailand, but some kind of beneficial bacteria that would be good against pythium (good point if it doesn't smell too bad!).

Never heard about the milk thing.

http://www.botanicare.com/Hydroguard-P194C4.aspx

This is what I am using right now, but it has to be imported so it ends up to be very expensive.

[CLW]

Which bacteria you have in mind?

Beside that I read that a milk/water solution 1:10 could be also used.

Anyone has experience with that?

Nothing specific, as I am not sure we will have that much choice in Thailand, but some kind of beneficial bacteria that would be good against pythium (good point if it doesn't smell too bad!).

Never heard about the milk thing.

http://www.botanicare.com/Hydroguard-P194C4.aspx

This is what I am using right now, but it has to be imported so it ends up to be very expensive.

Your link directs me only to the main page.

What I know that Bacillus subtillis and Trichoderma harzianum are available here. A saw an advert in the Agricultural Magazine.

[Asernume]

I think thaigreenagro.com could have what I need but their website is kind of awful and only in Thai, I'll have to ask my girlfriend to give them a call

I found 2 other websites in this intense Google afternoon session, maybe it will be of interest to some of you :

http://tbrcnetwork.org/index.php

http://www.ladda.com/English/product.php?Product_Type1=1&Product_Type2=3

CLW : Their product uses Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens, I think it's kind of similar to Bacillus Subtilis.

[CLW]

Thaigreenagro, I think that is the company from the advert

[Asernume]

Thaigreenagro say that their products are not for hydroponics.

However they do have both Trichoderma and Bacillus Subtilis.

They indicated that we can buy from them on lazada http://www.lazada.co.th/thaigreen-shop/ which is convenient.

Since it's not expensive I will give a try to one of those product in powder form and see what happens when it's mixed.

[CLW]

Sorry, I got it wrong.

The company I meant is Applied Biochemical Thailand.

For Thaigreenagro, did they explain why it can't be used in hydroponics?

Maybe they thought you'll put it in the nutrient solution...

I'm using Bt and Neem against insects in hydroponics with success and no negative effects.

[Asernume]

I was not the one on the phone with them so I couldn't ask, but I think it might be because the product is not soluble enough or maybe because it can't stay in solution for long enough.

Thanks a lot for appliedchemthai.com it seems to be the most interesting website so far, I will try to contact them soon to know what they think of their products for hydroponic use.

[rice555]

I was not the one on the phone with them so I couldn't ask, but I think it might be because the product is not soluble enough or maybe because it can't stay in solution for long enough.

Thanks a lot for appliedchemthai.com it seems to be the most interesting website so far, I will try to contact them soon to know what they think of their products for hydroponic use.

What type of system are you running? I haven't ran into a problem with pithium in run to waste

here in LOS in 16 years.

rice555

[CLW]

I'm planning a setup for a hydroponic system.

Non-recovery, coconut coir, in pots, chilli and peppers.

I read that 1 emitter with 0,5 gph per pot is sufficient. Is that correct?

[rice555]

I'm planning a setup for a hydroponic system.

Non-recovery, coconut coir, in pots, chilli and peppers.

I read that 1 emitter with 0,5 gph per pot is sufficient. Is that correct?

If you are using a timer & pump, you could use any size and

adjust the timer as needed.

gph droppers in LOS??? Super Products maks drippers and

PC drippers that you can take apart and clean if they clog.

Most of the drip stakes have a builtin metering labyrinth on top

where the tubbing slips on the stake which can be used by it's

self.

rice555

[CLW]

I'm planning a setup for a hydroponic system.

Non-recovery, coconut coir, in pots, chilli and peppers.

I read that 1 emitter with 0,5 gph per pot is sufficient. Is that correct?

If you are using a timer & pump, you could use any size and

adjust the timer as needed.

gph droppers in LOS??? Super Products maks drippers and

PC drippers that you can take apart and clean if they clog.

Most of the drip stakes have a builtin metering labyrinth on top

where the tubbing slips on the stake which can be used by it's

self.

rice555

Great, thanks! I put the Gph just as reference, didn't convert to L/h

[rice555]

Here's the stakes, the top pic shows the input side on top and

the labyrinth before it exits the stake, and the second pic is both

sides of the full stakes.

Is there any special reason to use pot/buckets over poly bags which

a majority of hydro growers use? I have found that the bags last a

season in full sun sitting on my driveway.

If you are going to use any pump over a large auarium pump, you'll

need a better timer than the HomePro digital or wheel/push pin timer.

Some of the home/yard irrigation timers have GDI so you can set up

your irrigation cycles and change as needed, something I've been

wanting as I'm not a day person, so my hand irrigation is not good.

rice555