Suburban City Farang Moving To Rural Isaan

[cm-happy]

I currently live in suburban Chiang Mai.

My typical day life style is usually to stay at home.

reading, playing with internet, watching DVDs, tending to house and gardens

Not a big party animal but also enjoy the abiltiy to go out clubbing once in a while.

Am giving some thought to moving to rural Isaan, Yasothon specifically to a tiny rice farming village(my b/f's home village). The village is about 25 K from the provincial capitol.

We have a house there, but would requite some changes to include farang ammenities. Have stayed there many times, but without any books, papers, dvds to watch so was quite boring for me.

Given my typical life style as per above, do you think a successful transition could be made?

Some of my concerns are available health, dental care and required periodic visit to immigration for 90 day reports and extension of retirement visa.

Does anyone have first hand knowledge of Yasothan hospitals, and if there is an immigration office there, if not where would be the closest?

Is there anything about living full time in rural Isaan that I should know about?

I'm not sure if I would sell my house here in CM before actually moving there full time, Don't want to burn my bridges behind me, should full time life there be untennable.

Motivation for considering this action is b/f has just returned from his usual 2 week visit with his family.

Many of the local farmers, want to sell their farms. They are heavily in debt and borrowed heavily using their farms as security to banks. It's now time for them to repay and they cannot and are afraid of the bank forclosing on their farms. They are wanting to sell at quite cheap price rather than see farm forclosed.

If I were to follow through, would get about 10 to 12 Rai of farm land. Would not plan on turning into rice farmer, but rather plant rubber trees and harvest the latex sap or an alternative crop. The business would be in b/f's name so not to jepardize my retirement visa. The b/f already has 3 rai of land there that was bought for him to save his family from financial ruin. The village now has plenty of water thanks to an irrigation system installed by the Taksin regime. Could hire local experienced farmers to end to the farm(s) since niether I nor b/f are experienced in farming or methods.

Thoughts, suggestions? Long term Isaan guys only please.

[toptuan]

Does five years qualify as "long term," or are you looking for some advice with decades of experience behind it? I've got a few points to contribute but don't want to wade in too deep.

[cm-happy]

Does five years qualify as "long term," or are you looking for some advice with decades of experience behind it? I've got a few points to contribute but don't want to wade in too deep.

Five years is fine! Not really need to hear from guys with decades there, although their input would be very welcome. Just a few years experience of living in Isaan would be fine.

[toptuan]

One question I would first ask: In your home country, did you live in the city or the country?

Second question: If you ever lived in the country, did you like it? Especially the quiet, living closer to nature, greater sense of independence, simple lifestyles and grounded values of country folk?

[yorkman]

My typical day life style is usually to stay at home.

reading, playing with internet, watching DVDs, tending to house and gardens

Not a big party animal but also enjoy the abiltiy to go out clubbing once in a while.

Well you can still do all that, although you would need to travel for the clubbing. As a partial substitute you will get the village parties though

Is there anything about living full time in rural Isaan that I should know about?

Well obviously you cannot just nip out to a local supermarket if you have any farang food needs, for example. A bit of forward planning will get around that one

Many of the local farmers, want to sell their farms. They are heavily in debt and borrowed heavily using their farms as security to banks. It's now time for them to repay and they cannot and are afraid of the bank forclosing on their farms. They are wanting to sell at quite cheap price rather than see farm forclosed.

It's almost off topic, but be really really careful about this. There have been cases where the debt was not settled directly with the bank

If I were to follow through, would get about 10 to 12 Rai of farm land. Would not plan on turning into rice farmer, but rather plant rubber trees and harvest the latex sap or an alternative crop. The business would be in b/f's name so not to jepardize my retirement visa. The b/f already has 3 rai of land there that was bought for him to save his family from financial ruin. The village now has plenty of water thanks to an irrigation system installed by the Taksin regime. Could hire local experienced farmers to end to the farm(s) since niether I nor b/f are experienced in farming or methods.

Ask this in the Farming Forum?? I presume it is to make some money?

I suppose the only other thing is it can be quiet, very quiet, Some people seem to like the "buzz" of a city. Is that you?

[bkkperson]

I haven't got 5 years experience infact i havent got any experience but my wife lives in the middle of no-where village not even a 7-11 within 20km's but i have been up their several times and while its a big old change from the city life it's kinda nice and im sure if i had the tinternet, UBC and a few 5inch thick books id be quite happy to give it ago...like you said your not gonna sell your CM house so you might aswell haved a look for a few months

[cm-happy]

One question I would first ask: In your home country, did you live in the city or the country?

Second question: If you ever lived in the country, did you like it? Especially the quiet, living closer to nature, greater sense of independence, simple lifestyles and grounded values of country folk?

In home country also lived in suburbs. 1.5 hour drive to NYC(rarely went. Too much hasle getting into and out of the city) and 1.5 hour drive to Phildelphia( went there often on weekends, great restaurants).

Where I am now, Mae Rim is as country as I've ever lived. still just 45 minute drive into CM. Chicken crowing, dogs barking, bug noises all night.

One poster did mention about hopping off to supermarket for farang food. Maybe can do mail order from Eurogourmet or the other new TV sponsor, sorry forgot their name. Or make monthly trip to KK to stock up.

I know is wrong forum for farming question. Don't really care if profitable or not, as long as I break even.

Another poster's comment about bank lien being cleared is well taken.

[Gary A]

You'll just have to give it a try. Five years ago, if someone had told me that I would be living out in the boonies today, I would have told them they were insane. By boonies, it is 30 kilometers to the nearest 7-11 and 145 kilometers to the nearest super store. At this point in my life, I can't imagine EVER going back to the farang ghettos. I'm content for the first time in my life.

[toptuan]

It was obvious to see where I was going with my previous questions, and other posters took up the train of thought (thanks). If you enjoyed country life in the USA, you're predestined to enjoy it here; all the basic factors are much the same. One thing I enjoyed (lived in the country in the USA), was the greater sense of independence and self reliance.

For example...

Can you cope with not seeing a farang for weeks, perhaps a month at a time?

Could you cope with a sudden interruption in your water supply? (I'm currently in the middle of a 3-day water cut-off); erratic utility services--not uncommon in the boonies.

Do you enjoy do-it-yourself fix-it projects? There isn't a plumber in our entire province (that I know of, and that my Thai friends know of). Have to do all my own plumbing, and regularly fix my own house electrical problems.

Can you endure long stretches without first-rate cinemas, western-style concerts, discos, higher quality western restaurants, etc. unless you have to drive long distances to get there? One thing I must say...when you've been holed up for a while (contentedly, in my case), the bright lights are a special treat. The best vacation I've had, ever, was 10-days in downtown Hong Kong a couple years ago. Like a different planet from my rural Isaan home village.

Some things to consider... all a part of country living no matter where you live in this world.

[MarcoH]

One question I would first ask: In your home country, did you live in the city or the country?

Second question: If you ever lived in the country, did you like it? Especially the quiet, living closer to nature, greater sense of independence, simple lifestyles and grounded values of country folk?

In home country also lived in suburbs. 1.5 hour drive to NYC(rarely went. Too much hasle getting into and out of the city) and 1.5 hour drive to Phildelphia( went there often on weekends, great restaurants).

Where I am now, Mae Rim is as country as I've ever lived. still just 45 minute drive into CM. Chicken crowing, dogs barking, bug noises all night.

One poster did mention about hopping off to supermarket for farang food. Maybe can do mail order from Eurogourmet or the other new TV sponsor, sorry forgot their name. Or make monthly trip to KK to stock up.

I know is wrong forum for farming question. Don't really care if profitable or not, as long as I break even.

Another poster's comment about bank lien being cleared is well taken.

Well, living half way from Ubon to Yaso 10yrs now, i can say that it's need some adjustment's from the person.

First what will happen to you is thai invation,, one's you moved there, IF you like that your house is full of thais every night and later 60% of them want to borrow your money then it's ok.

IF you need privacy, then you have to make sure that your GF will understand that and will not start to entertain whole village with your money, this how ever will create some problems in the begining as thais are very social in here and do not tend to understand why farang dont like get mau every night.

I had one friend living close by Yaso and he end up to looking too much wiskey bottle and finally after few yrs doing that is back to his home country now and try to get back to his feet...

Yaso it self is lively town, lot of activities day time but evening seems to be quiet and not so much bar sceen looking for.

take a tour few weeks to few month's, then you get a hint how the life is there.

for my self's i have enjoyed every day more or less,, ofcourse time to time one get pisst for thai style, but im sure that happens to all of us, where ever one lives.

[cm-happy]

Thanks much for your input Toptuan and Marcoh and all the others as well.

CM-Happy maybe Yasothon-happy some day?

[bergen]

Thanks much for your input Toptuan and Marcoh and all the others as well.

CM-Happy maybe Yasothon-happy some day?

You can have the life you want in Isaan!

Don't know too much about Yaso, but as regarding health/dental care, there are good privat hospitals in Ubon -100k/1 hr away

Immigration office in Mukdahan, and bridge to Laos for visa runs is 120k away.

As you are already accustomed to rural Thailand, there is not much to beware of in Isaan.

Internet and UBC tv are available where ever you have electricity.

Good selection of dvd's, books, and all ammenities in Ubon, and the variety of farang food, both in restaurants and supermarkets are improving all the time.

Buy land if it's a bargain, - and if you have baht to spare. Can keep you occupied today, and be a future investment for your Thai family.

Regarding privacy and family invasion, sort this out with your bf (and his family), before moving, so everyone know the new rules.

I see little risks involved, and should any problems happend, you still have your house in CM.

Give it a try, and you might be Isaan-happy!

Bets of luck!

[ozzydom]

cm-happy, All you can do is give it a go, you will either love it or hate it. If after a reasonable time you find you are only there for family reasons and are not really happy in yourself, then go back to C-M as the pressure on your relationship will be terrible.

BUT, if you take an active interest in the goings on and Later on find that you are enjoying the adventure,then its time to take care of your personal needs.

Either build a small sanctum or do some renovations to give yourself some privacy and creature comforts, Get yourself a Satellite TV system and Internet facility so that your only a click away from World and Local news and access to friends and relations ,Then enjoy your newfound lifestyle.

Even the necessary trips to buy western foodstuffs and do your visa are adventures when you get the chance to see new things and people,shopping, eat out etc.

If you cant hack it, dont be down on yourself as its not everyones "cup of tea " but like Gary said you may be one of the lucky ones and find you wouldnt want to be any where else.

ozzy

[Gimbo]

One question I would first ask: In your home country, did you live in the city or the country?

Second question: If you ever lived in the country, did you like it? Especially the quiet, living closer to nature, greater sense of independence, simple lifestyles and grounded values of country folk?

In home country also lived in suburbs. 1.5 hour drive to NYC(rarely went. Too much hasle getting into and out of the city) and 1.5 hour drive to Phildelphia( went there often on weekends, great restaurants).

Where I am now, Mae Rim is as country as I've ever lived. still just 45 minute drive into CM. Chicken crowing, dogs barking, bug noises all night.

One poster did mention about hopping off to supermarket for farang food. Maybe can do mail order from Eurogourmet or the other new TV sponsor, sorry forgot their name. Or make monthly trip to KK to stock up.

I know is wrong forum for farming question. Don't really care if profitable or not, as long as I break even.

Another poster's comment about bank lien being cleared is well taken.

Well, living half way from Ubon to Yaso 10yrs now, i can say that it's need some adjustment's from the person.

First what will happen to you is thai invation,, one's you moved there, IF you like that your house is full of thais every night and later 60% of them want to borrow your money then it's ok.

IF you need privacy, then you have to make sure that your GF will understand that and will not start to entertain whole village with your money, this how ever will create some problems in the begining as thais are very social in here and do not tend to understand why farang dont like get mau every night.

I had one friend living close by Yaso and he end up to looking too much wiskey bottle and finally after few yrs doing that is back to his home country now and try to get back to his feet...

Yaso it self is lively town, lot of activities day time but evening seems to be quiet and not so much bar sceen looking for.

take a tour few weeks to few month's, then you get a hint how the life is there.

for my self's i have enjoyed every day more or less,, ofcourse time to time one get pisst for thai style, but im sure that happens to all of us, where ever one lives.

Strange...I dont recognize any of this. But then I dont have 5 years expericnce living in Isaan yet, so maybe that will come later. Actually, after 6 months I am starting to wonder where all the money grabbing, scheeming , lazy, just want to drink up all my booze and beer are. I have yet to see them.

Well, sooner or later they'll turn up, but then I will just build a wall to hide behind like so many else. Meanwhile I enjoy it here. May get the odd bout of cabin fever, but with internet and UBC I am okay, plus, yes the adventure it is going to a town, end shop for groceries....who'd think that would be such a high light.

Well, have not got five years, and still in my Isaan honeymoon period, so i'll shut my trap now. Good luck OP, whatever you decide

[yorkman]

Strange...I dont recognize any of this. But then I dont have 5 years expericnce living in Isaan yet, so maybe that will come later. Actually, after 6 months I am starting to wonder where all the money grabbing, scheeming , lazy, just want to drink up all my booze and beer are. I have yet to see them...............

...........

Well, have not got five years, and still in my Isaan honeymoon period, so i'll shut my trap now. Good luck OP, whatever you decide

I have 12 years in Issan Gimbo, and I have yet to see them

'tis amazing internet wisdom eh?

People who have these lives do exist, it cannot be denied. But publishing bad luck (people make their own luck) stories is a far more popular activity than publishing positive experiences.

And then you get the Bangkok/Pattaya "experts" who barely move from a bar stool; Issan is horrible, they are all whisky drinkers and gamble away the money they have, they don't know how to vote and are bought off, and all their daughters are ignorant farm girls, whose only desire is to go South and service their every need.

I dunno

Back on topic. As suggested Cm-happy, just try a short stint with your farang needs easily taken care of, and decide

[TheExpat]

I think that there are several things that you will find up country in a village.

Thais that stare at you like you are from outer space. They will want to talk to you and may come up up and paw you. They will yell to you from a 100 yards away in a drunken state. Drunk Thai people that have no social skills or thoughts about the world beyond the moo bahn they live in. Thais that are not open minded and think they know better than you about anything and everything. Thais that should never have been issued a drivers license.

Expats that will try not to look at you and will avoid you at all costs. Drunk expats with no social skills or thoughts beyond the moo bahn they live in. Arrogant expats that are not open minded and think they know better than you about anything and everything. They have become Issan Thais in their own minds.

There are a few Thais that I met there that impressed me, but for the most part I mostly felt that they were not ready for the white man to be around. Just this week I was talking to a friend of mine that has a German restaurant there and he said that he thinks it will take about 5 to 10 years more for the Thais to be able to accept farangs living among them.

The truth is that I met a lot of awesome expats in my up country stay. I enjoyed talking with them and heard some great stories and had some great times going out with them. I formed some friendhsips that have stood the test of time. Even though I have left Isaan, I still get phone calls and emails everyday from many farang friends that I met there. When I visit, we all get together for lunch and a chat.

On the other hand, there was always a group of expats that were buttholes. The ones that would not speak to me or look at me even if I was in the same checkout line as them at Macro. Ones that would not even respond back when I greeted them. I found that to be strange. I think it was because they could not fit in in their homeland and can't even handle the interaction with a farang here.

The other thing that I missed was the availability of Western food, ingredients for making Western food, and Western entertainment such as English TV, radio and English movie in the theatres.

The internet service was always <deleted>. They could never get it right and I always felt that dial up would have run quicker than the over priced broad band that I had. Martin from the FC could agree with that. I remember him being frustrated with his maxnet and even posting about it here. I think he told me he was paying 5000 baht a month for the service.......if you can call internet service upcountry service in the first place.

The other complaint I had was that the Thais had a great sales talk about EVERYTHING, but the follow up service was down the toilet. They never lived up to their word on ANYTHING. Once I had to show up at the UBC office with a sign in Thai and English that said their service sucked. They had not come out for 3 weeks to fix a problem and once I showed up with the sign, they arrived in 10 minutes!!!

For those that I have offended, remember that I am stating what I observed. it is my expoerience and may not have been yours!!

Edited January 20, 2008 by TheExpat

[TheExpat]

CM is lovely and I have thought nto live there myself. They have everything a farang could ever want. Rent in Isaan, don't buy. It will be easier when you move back to CM!

[ozzydom]

TheExpat, As I said previously ,some can hack village life some cant, some love it some hate it.

If we were all alike we would all be living in either Bankok or in Issan.

Thais are different to us ,thank goodness! Thai villages are as diverse as any city, there are those that want to be your friend,those that dont like you (or falangs in general),those that want to have a beer with you and those that want to fight you,also those that want to take from you and those that want to give, Just like anywhere else in the world.

I hear what you say about other Westerners in the countryside, they seem to form little cliques ,based I think on their place of origin,we have all been given the cold shoulder from these types , so be it , if they wish to be ignorant its their problem.

There are always petty differences going on in the villages but overall the community spirit always comes through.

Let me relate a couple of instances, last year we found, early one morning about 2 tonne of fish dead in one of our ponds, within 20 minutes about twenty villagers were in the pond scooping out the dead fish,another went and got his tractor and dug a pit to bury them, and not a baht was asked for.

Just before Xmas the biggest flood we have seen broke over the bung walls of our ponds,every able-bodied person in the village turned out with tools ,fence posts and rolls of mesh and erected a fence along the bung walls to save our fish, and this was at 2am in the morning,they saved our fish and again not a baht was asked for, mind you we had a couple of great parties to show our gratitude.

Westerners rarely understand the concept of Thai Time or doing things when they wish, but when the chips are down they are first to put their hands up and roll up their sleeves.

I still dont have a phone line but my 2000 TBH a month IPstar is now giving me about 500kbps and I have 480 channels on my Sat tv plus a freezer full of western foods, Ahhh life is good.

[andylee]

You say "My typical day life style is usually to stay at home.

reading, playing with internet, watching DVDs, tending to house and gardens

Not a big party animal but also enjoy the abiltiy to go out clubbing once in a while."

Well my time is spent doing exactly that, plus weekly or fortnightly snooker with other non thais. Trips to the shops etc. Every week or fortnight I go to wedding party, funeral party, housewarming party, become a temporary monk party or similar, all mean eating and drinking at a very early hour. Watching the family fishing, farming etc is interesting. I do help/take part sometimes.

Yes there are sometimes problems, but there are in any country you live and have relationships in. My village has about 15 houses and is about 15km from Buriram and the supermarkets, which have arrived in the last 6 months (other than a pretend supermarket).

I lived in a city after spending my childhood in town/semi country. I really like it. The people in my village appear to have no problem with sexuality, which surprised me at first. Many places in the UK I wouldnt be able to say that.

<link removed>

Edited January 22, 2008 by Totster
Link removed - see forum rules

[Whatever]

I have lived in both places and I would say there is a lot less going on in Yoso than Chaing Mai. I live (from time to time) in a place called Maha Chana Chai which is in between Yoso and Ubon and there is not much to do there, but that's half it's appeal. I would say you definitely need transport - a car or jeep as the best place to go for a night out and western food (Tesco/Big C/restaurants) will be Ubon, which is an hours drive. Even then you won't bump into many Fereng. And even if you do they might not be that friendly as mentioned before. That could be about being the "only gay in the village" and it could be a something to do with getting away from white people. Personally I'll speak to people that say hello to me. I went to a Thai style night club that had a kinda rock concert on (which I must say was brilliant). I think I saw 3 other fereng in there and I spoke to all of them. I chatted to some for about an hour and it is interesting hearing other peoples story. It certainly won't be like going to Bubble where half the people in there are tourists and travellers. So if you want to get away from that crowd Yoso is certainly a good place to go.

I would say that you can make your own fun and involve yourself in rural life as much or as little as you want. Get a satilite, some books and DVDs from Bangkok when you pass through, a decent size fridge, a nice TV and you can kick back and relax and get on with whatever you want to. Internet connection might be very slow like in my village - 16.8bpm (I think my phone in the UK is faster) 3bt/hr with TOT or have broadband beamed through satalite prbably 500k for 1200bt/month. Personally I like playing on the playstation and games on the PC and when I move more permantly I will be buying a pool table and setting up a bar in my house. (for personal use not a business)

With regards to the land - I know what you are talking about and you can pick up some bargains but it's doultfull you'll make money or break even. Selling the land on would probably be the only money spinner, but then there's finding a buyer. From my experience a bit of land that costs 30k will only make you 5-7k a year, or roughly something like that. Look into the rubber idea before you go rushing in. Remember that the land will be floaded for a long time and you may find that you have to raise the land abovew the fload.

Good luck anyway.

[Brigante7]

Wifes family live in small village about 15K from Nakhon Phanom town, we live in Scotland, and we are going over in October for 6 months to see if I can hack it and if I can then we will move ther permanent. Town is an OK size, has 3 7-11's, Tesco-Lotus. We are going to LOS in 11 days for 1 month to look at houses to buy near village so that even if we don't relocate we will have somewhere to stay when we visit.