Good Places To Eat In Chiang Mai

[Ajarn]

By Elle Faraday

On my travels, I’ve often been asked what my favourite type of food is and why. I was never able to give a direct answer until I moved to Chiang Mai. I can now say that Thai food is without doubt my favourite cuisine. The longer I’ve been living here, the more able I am to cope with spicy(ish) food and I now have an understanding of chillies. They’re not there to simply burn a few layers of skin away from the roof of my mouth, but are actually there to enhance the flavour of a dish.

As regular readers of this column will know I go out to eat fairly regularly, certainly a lot more than I ever did in London, and I try to fit in a Thai meal as often as possible. One of my perennial favourites is the popular Lena Restaurant, which can be found at the bottom corner of Loi Kroh Road, Soi 5, at the end of Anusarn market.

Their food is exceptional and service is particularly efficient. In all the times I have eaten there, which I can assure you is a fair few, I have never been disappointed with the dishes I have been served. The large number of local Thais that eat regularly at Lena is ample testament to the quality of the food. They have many repeat customers and I have known people who have visited Chiang Mai for a couple of days and never felt the need to find an alternative dining experience! They tried many of the numerous dishes on the menu at Lena instead of trying different restaurants. Their reasoning was, “We know the food is high quality and authentic Thai cuisine so why go somewhere else that might not be as good?”

Whenever I visit, I always try to sample something different on their menu. I do, however, enjoy ordering a couple of oysters to start. They are simply divine and at just 45 baht each are impossible to resist. If you are not feeling very hungry and just want a snack, their fried rice (in particular crab fried rice) is delicious and is served with limes that are perfect squeezed over the top. The spring rolls and shrimp cakes are also tasty tempting appetisers. If I fancy something light, I normally go for a small mix of appetisers or Lena’s mixed entr้e platter. This consists of a wide range of Thai delights (great to share) at just 190 baht. They also serve an extensive range of traditional Thai style (occasionally spicy) salads and noodle dishes that start at 45 baht, perfect for a light evening meal.

If you feel you need something more substantial than a few appetisers, you will find an abundance of main courses to choose from. My favourites include fried crab in black pepper sauce (price depends on size of crab), squid steamed with lime garlic and chilli (120 baht), sweet and sour pork (65 baht) and fried sea bass with tamarind sauce (120 baht). Of course, whenever I order any main course, I’ll always order a portion of sticky rice as the perfect accompaniment.

This is just a tiny selection of what is on offer at Lena; there are many other dishes suitable for vegetarians and many more adventurous dishes such as curried shrimps steamed in banana leaves and wild boar fried with chilli paste. I have eaten both these dishes and can guarantee that you will not be disappointed if you try them.

If you have room for a dessert after you’ve feasted upon some of Thailand’s favourite dishes, the sticky rice and mango comes highly recommended. This northern Thai style dessert is always served to perfection.

Lena Restaurant is open seven nights a week and although it can get busy, this adds to the atmosphere and booking is never required. It is a great introduction to Thai cuisine and therefore an excellent restaurant to entertain friends and family from overseas. Simple things make it very customer friendly for example if you ask for ‘not spicy’, you will get a tasty dish without the heat preferred by those more used to oriental food.

When you ask for the bill, you will be treated to a little bit of ‘Thai magic’. The owner will manually add up the cost of your meal - regardless of how much you ordered - and do this at such a speed that you will not fail to be impressed. She has never once made a mistake in all four years that I have been going there.

If you want to contact Lena Restaurant, phone: 053 274 588. Head for Anusarn Market, just off the Night Bazaar and you won’t miss it.

[The Dan Sai Kid]

By Elle Faraday

On my travels, I’ve often been asked what my favourite type of food is and why. I was never able to give a direct answer until I moved to Chiang Mai. I can now say that Thai food is without doubt my favourite cuisine. The longer I’ve been living here, the more able I am to cope with spicy(ish) food and I now have an understanding of chillies. They’re not there to simply burn a few layers of skin away from the roof of my mouth, but are actually there to enhance the flavour of a dish.

As regular readers of this column will know I go out to eat fairly regularly, certainly a lot more than I ever did in London, and I try to fit in a Thai meal as often as possible. One of my perennial favourites is the popular Lena Restaurant, which can be found at the bottom corner of Loi Kroh Road, Soi 5, at the end of Anusarn market.

Their food is exceptional and service is particularly efficient. In all the times I have eaten there, which I can assure you is a fair few, I have never been disappointed with the dishes I have been served. The large number of local Thais that eat regularly at Lena is ample testament to the quality of the food. They have many repeat customers and I have known people who have visited Chiang Mai for a couple of days and never felt the need to find an alternative dining experience! They tried many of the numerous dishes on the menu at Lena instead of trying different restaurants. Their reasoning was, “We know the food is high quality and authentic Thai cuisine so why go somewhere else that might not be as good?”

Whenever I visit, I always try to sample something different on their menu. I do, however, enjoy ordering a couple of oysters to start. They are simply divine and at just 45 baht each are impossible to resist. If you are not feeling very hungry and just want a snack, their fried rice (in particular crab fried rice) is delicious and is served with limes that are perfect squeezed over the top. The spring rolls and shrimp cakes are also tasty tempting appetisers. If I fancy something light, I normally go for a small mix of appetisers or Lena’s mixed entr้e platter. This consists of a wide range of Thai delights (great to share) at just 190 baht. They also serve an extensive range of traditional Thai style (occasionally spicy) salads and noodle dishes that start at 45 baht, perfect for a light evening meal.

If you feel you need something more substantial than a few appetisers, you will find an abundance of main courses to choose from. My favourites include fried crab in black pepper sauce (price depends on size of crab), squid steamed with lime garlic and chilli (120 baht), sweet and sour pork (65 baht) and fried sea bass with tamarind sauce (120 baht). Of course, whenever I order any main course, I’ll always order a portion of sticky rice as the perfect accompaniment.

This is just a tiny selection of what is on offer at Lena; there are many other dishes suitable for vegetarians and many more adventurous dishes such as curried shrimps steamed in banana leaves and wild boar fried with chilli paste. I have eaten both these dishes and can guarantee that you will not be disappointed if you try them.

If you have room for a dessert after you’ve feasted upon some of Thailand’s favourite dishes, the sticky rice and mango comes highly recommended. This northern Thai style dessert is always served to perfection.

Lena Restaurant is open seven nights a week and although it can get busy, this adds to the atmosphere and booking is never required. It is a great introduction to Thai cuisine and therefore an excellent restaurant to entertain friends and family from overseas. Simple things make it very customer friendly for example if you ask for ‘not spicy’, you will get a tasty dish without the heat preferred by those more used to oriental food.

When you ask for the bill, you will be treated to a little bit of ‘Thai magic’. The owner will manually add up the cost of your meal - regardless of how much you ordered - and do this at such a speed that you will not fail to be impressed. She has never once made a mistake in all four years that I have been going there.

If you want to contact Lena Restaurant, phone: 053 274 588. Head for Anusarn Market, just off the Night Bazaar and you won’t miss it.

So, is it any good? The Chiang Mai Mail gives everyone great reviews - they want to sell advertisement space.

I'm always suspicious of Thai restaurants that cater for tourists...

[Ulysses G.]

I thought that Ajarn wrote that for Thai Visa and I was thinking that if he feels this way, I will have to check it out. However, as The Dan sai Kid says, I don't take Chiang Mai Mail reviews very seriously!

[Ajarn]

I thought that Ajarn wrote that for Thai Visa and I was thinking that if he feels this way, I will have to check it out. However, as The Dan sai Kid says, I don't take Chiang Mai Mail reviews very seriously!

Me neither... Just posted it for the info.

[Suthep_Steve]

For all you Vegetarians out there here is a map of some but not all the Vegetarian Resturants in Chiang Mai. It updates one done a few years ago.

Chiang Mai Vegetarian Map

All the info comes from http://www.chiangmaivegetarian.com

Which also has a section with some info about each of the resturants shown on the map. The website is still in it's early days and is a bit rough around the edges but should be of use.

I confess that the website was made by a Thai friend and myself but it's non profit so I hope no one takes offense.

[seeker108]

Thanks Steve and keep up the good work with the web site.

Two worthwhile entiries in the veg friendly category in the Nimmanhemin area are Pasta Cafe on Soi 5 (high quality Italian restaurant with very reasonable prices and very nice ambiance). The other is on the small unnamed soi next to Hillside Condo 2. It has a sign out front saying organic vegetables. Though not 100% veg it caters mostly to vegetarians and has some of the best Thai vegetarian food in Thailand. Being organic is a rare bonus. The owner is a very nice lady and an excellent cook and she whips up dishes from scratch in record time, prepared exactly to your requirements. Prices are extremely reasonable. The only downside is that there is no real ambiance and you often get the cooking fumes blowing into the sitting area. Still, because of the food quality it is my most frequented restaurant.

[PeaceBlondie]

Thanks Steve and keep up the good work with the web site.

Two worthwhile entiries in the veg friendly category in the Nimmanhemin area are Pasta Cafe on Soi 5 (high quality Italian restaurant with very reasonable prices and very nice ambiance). ....

I second that emotion. Or that emoticon

[lannarebirth]

Can anyone give a testimonial for a good Italian restauarant in town? I've been to Georgio's and found it wretched. I've been to the Pasta House and it seems a little better than a couple of years ago, but not very good. I've been to Babylon and some of the food is tasty if inauthentic, but the ambiance is not great.

Also, does anyone know of a restauarnt or bakery where i can get real schiacciata or focaccia bread?

[mickmac]

Can anyone give a testimonial for a good Italian restauarant in town? I've been to Georgio's and found it wretched. I've been to the Pasta House and it seems a little better than a couple of years ago, but not very good. I've been to Babylon and some of the food is tasty if inauthentic, but the ambiance is not great.

Also, does anyone know of a restauarnt or bakery where i can get real schiacciata or focaccia bread?

If cost is not a problem possibly try Piccola Roma, down at the bottom of Chang klan,(the night bazare), turn left go to the end of the road and it is on the right hand corner, opposire the new Chedi hotel.

Last time in there, a few weeks ago, had fresh pasta with fresh Porchini mushrooms and Truffles.

You could also try Buenissimo half way up on the left had side of Maejo Rd. Though a little lacking in ambiance, especially if not many in, but usually quite a lot of diners. The restaurant is closed on Monday night though.

Good luck

[The Dan Sai Kid]

I thought that Ajarn wrote that for Thai Visa and I was thinking that if he feels this way, I will have to check it out. However, as The Dan sai Kid says, I don't take Chiang Mai Mail reviews very seriously!

Me neither... Just posted it for the info.

Not that I don't respect my elders - and a very popular poster - but, why bother posting it then

[Suthep_Steve]

Thanks Steve and keep up the good work with the web site.

Two worthwhile entiries in the veg friendly category in the Nimmanhemin area are Pasta Cafe on Soi 5 (high quality Italian restaurant with very reasonable prices and very nice ambiance). ....

I second that emotion. Or that emoticon

Thanks for the positive comments and emoticons guys. Thanks for the suggestions Seeker, I'll put those two on the todo list. I've been to the Pasta Cafe a few times and liked it. The other one hadn't heard of but I'm looking forward to giving it a try.

Steve

[Ajarn]

I thought that Ajarn wrote that for Thai Visa and I was thinking that if he feels this way, I will have to check it out. However, as The Dan sai Kid says, I don't take Chiang Mai Mail reviews very seriously!

Me neither... Just posted it for the info.

Not that I don't respect my elders - and a very popular poster - but, why bother posting it then

So people would be informed...

[Petey]

Thanks Steve and keep up the good work with the web site.

Two worthwhile entiries in the veg friendly category in the Nimmanhemin area are Pasta Cafe on Soi 5 (high quality Italian restaurant with very reasonable prices and very nice ambiance). ....

I second that emotion. Or that emoticon

Thanks for the positive comments and emoticons guys. Thanks for the suggestions Seeker, I'll put those two on the todo list. I've been to the Pasta Cafe a few times and liked it. The other one hadn't heard of but I'm looking forward to giving it a try.

Steve

Steve,

Great vegetarian website you are putting together. Thanks so much for your effort. I was trying to update the old map of vegetarian restaurants which had been floating around but found it a daunting task! I'd suggest adding some of the new juice bars springing up around town, some of which serve vegetarian fare along with wheatgrass, salads, raw food dishes, etc. One such place is Juicy4U at 5 Ratchamankla just inside the moat across from the new Gecko book shop. The small cafe attached to the Aden store on Nimmanhemin has some good vegetarian dishes.

Since there are many vegetarians who are living in Chiang Mai long-term and who love to cook for themselves I'd recommend you include some resources for them such as natural foods stores (Aden, Ban Suan Pak, etc.) as well as shops and markets which sell organic vegetables like the Doi Kham shop, the twice-weekly market near the CMU agricultural project, for example.

I think your your website has potential to be community forum for people living in this area who are living or are interested in living a healthy, conscious lifestyle to share recipes, tips, new discoveries, places to buy hard-to-find items and so forth. Your vegetarianism page could perhaps provide a little more clarification for foreign visitors such as the relationship between Je (Che) and vegan, but overall you are off to a great start.

[meadish_sweetball]

Can anyone give a testimonial for a good Italian restauarant in town? I've been to Georgio's and found it wretched. I've been to the Pasta House and it seems a little better than a couple of years ago, but not very good. I've been to Babylon and some of the food is tasty if inauthentic, but the ambiance is not great.

Also, does anyone know of a restauarnt or bakery where i can get real schiacciata or focaccia bread?

Try Buonissimo, located on the left hand side of the way out to Mae Jo (that is the Chiang Mai - Phrao road). Not exactly "in town", but you can't complain about the food.

[The Dan Sai Kid]

Can anyone give a testimonial for a good Italian restauarant in town? I've been to Georgio's and found it wretched. I've been to the Pasta House and it seems a little better than a couple of years ago, but not very good. I've been to Babylon and some of the food is tasty if inauthentic, but the ambiance is not great.

Also, does anyone know of a restauarnt or bakery where i can get real schiacciata or focaccia bread?

Try Buonissimo, located on the left hand side of the way out to Mae Jo (that is the Chiang Mai - Phrao road). Not exactly "in town", but you can't complain about the food.

Where is Phrao? I've heard of Phrae and Phayao.

[Ajarn]

Can anyone give a testimonial for a good Italian restauarant in town? I've been to Georgio's and found it wretched. I've been to the Pasta House and it seems a little better than a couple of years ago, but not very good. I've been to Babylon and some of the food is tasty if inauthentic, but the ambiance is not great.

Also, does anyone know of a restauarnt or bakery where i can get real schiacciata or focaccia bread?

Try Buonissimo, located on the left hand side of the way out to Mae Jo (that is the Chiang Mai - Phrao road). Not exactly "in town", but you can't complain about the food.

Where is Phrao? I've heard of Phrae and Phayao.

Follow the Mae Jo road north 100 kilometers

[Suthep_Steve]

For all you Vegetarians out there here is a map of some but not all the Vegetarian Resturants in Chiang Mai. It updates one done a few years ago.

Chiang Mai Vegetarian Map

All the info comes from http://www.chiangmaivegetarian.com

Which also has a section with some info about each of the resturants shown on the map. The website is still in it's early days and is a bit rough around the edges but should be of use.

I confess that the website was made by a Thai friend and myself but it's non profit so I hope no one takes offense.

Thanks Steve and keep up the good work with the web site.

Two worthwhile entiries in the veg friendly category in the Nimmanhemin area are Pasta Cafe on Soi 5 (high quality Italian restaurant with very reasonable prices and very nice ambiance). ....

I second that emotion. Or that emoticon

Thanks for the positive comments and emoticons guys. Thanks for the suggestions Seeker, I'll put those two on the todo list. I've been to the Pasta Cafe a few times and liked it. The other one hadn't heard of but I'm looking forward to giving it a try.

Steve

Steve,

Great vegetarian website you are putting together. Thanks so much for your effort. I was trying to update the old map of vegetarian restaurants which had been floating around but found it a daunting task! I'd suggest adding some of the new juice bars springing up around town, some of which serve vegetarian fare along with wheatgrass, salads, raw food dishes, etc. One such place is Juicy4U at 5 Ratchamankla just inside the moat across from the new Gecko book shop. The small cafe attached to the Aden store on Nimmanhemin has some good vegetarian dishes.

Since there are many vegetarians who are living in Chiang Mai long-term and who love to cook for themselves I'd recommend you include some resources for them such as natural foods stores (Aden, Ban Suan Pak, etc.) as well as shops and markets which sell organic vegetables like the Doi Kham shop, the twice-weekly market near the CMU agricultural project, for example.

I think your your website has potential to be community forum for people living in this area who are living or are interested in living a healthy, conscious lifestyle to share recipes, tips, new discoveries, places to buy hard-to-find items and so forth. Your vegetarianism page could perhaps provide a little more clarification for foreign visitors such as the relationship between Je (Che) and vegan, but overall you are off to a great start.

Thanks for the reply Petey. Those are some good ideas and I'll talk to Khun Ath the guy who did most of the leg work on the site and we will look at which way we want to take the site from here and the changes we want to make to what we already have.

I agree with you about including Veggie friendly shops and think Aden is a big omission which we can resolve soon.

[lannarebirth]

Thanks everyone for the Italian restaurant tips. I'm going to give that Buonissimo a try.

and Suthep Steve: GREAT idea for the vegetarian website. I personally love this one, run by my friends Khun Pyack and his wife Khun Eeyoo.

http://www.chiangmaivegetarian.com/Restaurants/index.php

The "Vegetarian Thai Orchid" v08 on the map. Delicious food and really inexpensive.

I hear a lot of people recommending Khun Churn here, and I have to say it's probably the worst vegetarian restaurant I've tried here. The food tastes like cardboard IMO. Thanks again.

[Choscura]

the best gapao and pric geng in thailand is off of sankhampaeng, right next to the seven eleven, just to the east of the super highway. in fact, I'm going to go there right now and get some!

cheerio!

[tigerbeer]

Can anyone give a testimonial for a good Italian restauarant in town? I've been to Georgio's and found it wretched. I've been to the Pasta House and it seems a little better than a couple of years ago, but not very good. I've been to Babylon and some of the food is tasty if inauthentic, but the ambiance is not great.

Also, does anyone know of a restauarnt or bakery where i can get real schiacciata or focaccia bread?

Try Buonissimo, located on the left hand side of the way out to Mae Jo (that is the Chiang Mai - Phrao road). Not exactly "in town", but you can't complain about the food.

how far out?? after land & house?

[Ajarn]

Can anyone give a testimonial for a good Italian restauarant in town? I've been to Georgio's and found it wretched. I've been to the Pasta House and it seems a little better than a couple of years ago, but not very good. I've been to Babylon and some of the food is tasty if inauthentic, but the ambiance is not great.

Also, does anyone know of a restauarnt or bakery where i can get real schiacciata or focaccia bread?

Try Buonissimo, located on the left hand side of the way out to Mae Jo (that is the Chiang Mai - Phrao road). Not exactly "in town", but you can't complain about the food.

how far out?? after land & house?

No, it is in the first section, about 1 km from Super, on the left side, just before the texaco station

Edited September 30, 2006 by Ajarn

[ihop]

An American freind of mine who was born and lived in India until he was 20 says this new restaurant is pretty good, but that the Royal India across from the Porn Ping Hotel in the Night Bazaar is the best in town.

He invited me to lunch there yesterday, and, as he said, the food was good before, but has gotten even better recently.

Try both places and post your opinion here!

ROYAL INDIA

Had lunch there. The masala was delicious and the naan excellent. Wish I could say the same about the service which felt uninviting. Maybe the evening staff is more welcoming? Doubtful I will return.

[tigerbeer]

An American freind of mine who was born and lived in India until he was 20 says this new restaurant is pretty good, but that the Royal India across from the Porn Ping Hotel in the Night Bazaar is the best in town.

He invited me to lunch there yesterday, and, as he said, the food was good before, but has gotten even better recently.

Try both places and post your opinion here!

ROYAL INDIA

Had lunch there. The masala was delicious and the naan excellent. Wish I could say the same about the service which felt uninviting. Maybe the evening staff is more welcoming? Doubtful I will return.

when you go to places like Royal India, you go there only for the food. Period. Its more like a "Dabba" in hindi meaning something like hassle free eating.

[ihop]

An American freind of mine who was born and lived in India until he was 20 says this new restaurant is pretty good, but that the Royal India across from the Porn Ping Hotel in the Night Bazaar is the best in town.

He invited me to lunch there yesterday, and, as he said, the food was good before, but has gotten even better recently.

Try both places and post your opinion here!

ROYAL INDIA

Had lunch there. The masala was delicious and the naan excellent. Wish I could say the same about the service which felt uninviting. Maybe the evening staff is more welcoming? Doubtful I will return.

when you go to places like Royal India, you go there only for the food. Period. Its more like a "Dabba" in hindi meaning something like hassle free eating.

Sure...but a simple smile would go a long way for repeat business, especially if you've got an empty restaurant during the lunch hour.

[Austhaied]

Fish and chips at the "Downunder" on Nimmenheamin Rd.. Without letting the truth get in the way of a good story, they are "SUPERB".. As good as any Aussie fish'n'greaso's...

[SoloFlyer]

And the prices?? Used to never eat farang food in CM... but now I've moved back, sometimes get a craving ... just annoying when you pay close to farang prices for something half as good, which often happens up here.

[Austhaied]

And the prices?? Used to never eat farang food in CM... but now I've moved back, sometimes get a craving ... just annoying when you pay close to farang prices for something half as good, which often happens up here.

For example, the fish n chips were 190 baht, ceasar salad 90 baht, aussie beer 120 baht, local beer 80-100... As i said earlier, to get fish n chips this good you must go to Williamstown in Aussie, and there you will pay at least that if not more...This is "farang tucker at it's finest"...I have been living in Thailand for near on 10 years now and this is the closest i have come to "farang food" as it should be.. The place had plenty of punters in there as well, which can only be a good sign...

[SoloFlyer]

Thanks. Sounds reasonably priced if its as good as you say it is. Will check it out next time I have a craving, then. I go past there all the time, but yet to see a big crowd.

Did you happen to notice if they are advertising the Ashes?? Would be the perfect location to see a few games.

BTW, had japanese at the new flash looking place on Niman with the trendy black canyon and bkk grill. Was not bad ... sushi average, but the grilled stuff was quite nice - but I cant fairly comment because the last decent japanese i had was 10,000bht for 4, including discount and free Sake. Last night was 600b for 2, - ordered by plate, not sets, including 2 lg Heinekens.

[swain]

Mr. Chan and Miss Pauline Pizzeria Restaurant Hang Dong-- Have heard mixed reviews of this place and I have only had delivery from them. I really liked their margarita pizza and Lasagna some of their other dishes were lacking but MUCH MUCH better then the only other pizza delivery choice in Hang Dong which is The Pizza Store. Mr. Chans always sound so tired on the phone and like they are about to fall asleep, the person who takes the orders seems to be constantly new and has to go ask questions for the smallest order. Delivery is fast (big plus when hungry) and the food was still hot when it got here. I will be ordering more in the future. --- for delivery its 094347001 -- I hope leaving phone numbers is ok-- I always hate reading a positive review of some place that delivers and then I cant find the phone number anywhere.

[Austhaied]

Galare resturant at the top of Suthep rd, go up the hill ,through the security checkpoint, turn left and keep going till you reach the place next to a lake on your left... They do the ultimate BBQ platter for only 90 baht (superb naam jiim / thai dipping sauce)..And the yum plaaduk fuu with som-o (pomelo) is divine.. The rest of their Thai food is very good and reasonably priced also.