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Posted

I've told my step-daughter that she has to maintain her own car...not mean as I've recently paid for her to do an MSc. in the UK. Now both outer boots have failed on her Mazda Lantis. The only clicking is when on full left lock..I only tested the car going forward in a circle, not in reverse.

The local garage, which is OK, said that they would get a 2nd hand shaft for the side that has failed and clean out and re-grease the other one and of course fit new boots.

Can someone confirm that if it clicks on full left lock only, then it is the right hand (offside) shaft that wants changing.

I actually changed both shafts, for 2nd hand ones, about six years ago, when it was my wifes car and it has done some 100K+ Kms since then. For anyone who doesn't know Mazda parts are quite expensive! .................thanks

Posted

No the only way to know is to listen from either inside or outside walking next to the vehicle from both locations the sound is pretty well pronounced as they are both at full extension of some amount when at full lock in either direction. In one case the front of the joint is fully extended and the back is fully extended same in the other direction.

Ironically I just replaced my inner CV joint today and it is the first such failure on any FWD car I've owned in over 20 years of driving even in full race trim so it caught me off guard as I just cleaned and rebuilt all of them within the last 6 months.

It has not failed just because it clicks, it's just dry as the boots have failed and allowed the grease to leak out and moisture in but most times a thorough cleaning, re-greasing and new boots will solve the problem with as much life as any used axles if the bearings haven't been seriously overheated yet and the joint is not blackened.

So instead of used axles with unknown shelf life why aren't you just replacing the CV on that axle with the new boot they say they're going to install anyway or if money is the issue then they can just recondition the one on your car now, the bet is still the same as buying a used axle and no extra steps are being taken I.E. new grease and new boot..

Posted

No the only way to know is to listen from either inside or outside walking next to the vehicle from both locations the sound is pretty well pronounced as they are both at full extension of some amount when at full lock in either direction. In one case the front of the joint is fully extended and the back is fully extended same in the other direction.

Ironically I just replaced my inner CV joint today and it is the first such failure on any FWD car I've owned in over 20 years of driving even in full race trim so it caught me off guard as I just cleaned and rebuilt all of them within the last 6 months.

It has not failed just because it clicks, it's just dry as the boots have failed and allowed the grease to leak out and moisture in but most times a thorough cleaning, re-greasing and new boots will solve the problem with as much life as any used axles if the bearings haven't been seriously overheated yet and the joint is not blackened.

So instead of used axles with unknown shelf life why aren't you just replacing the CV on that axle with the new boot they say they're going to install anyway or if money is the issue then they can just recondition the one on your car now, the bet is still the same as buying a used axle and no extra steps are being taken I.E. new grease and new boot..

Posted

No the only way to know is to listen from either inside or outside walking next to the vehicle from both locations the sound is pretty well pronounced as they are both at full extension of some amount when at full lock in either direction. In one case the front of the joint is fully extended and the back is fully extended same in the other direction.

Ironically I just replaced my inner CV joint today and it is the first such failure on any FWD car I've owned in over 20 years of driving even in full race trim so it caught me off guard as I just cleaned and rebuilt all of them within the last 6 months.

It has not failed just because it clicks, it's just dry as the boots have failed and allowed the grease to leak out and moisture in but most times a thorough cleaning, re-greasing and new boots will solve the problem with as much life as any used axles if the bearings haven't been seriously overheated yet and the joint is not blackened.

So instead of used axles with unknown shelf life why aren't you just replacing the CV on that axle with the new boot they say they're going to install anyway or if money is the issue then they can just recondition the one on your car now, the bet is still the same as buying a used axle and no extra steps are being taken I.E. new grease and new boot..

Think I pressed the wrong button..

Thanks..I did listen from inside and on left lock the noise seemed to come from the right. In the past I've had mini/cooper/1293S and have cleaned and re-greased etc. Never stripped them down and re-built though as you need to mark where every ball etc comes from as they bed in.

Maybe we will look to see the state and a clean and re-grease may last a while.I think that the replacement axles come from Japan and have been rebooted.

I think a boot is 650Baht, greese 200 Baht and 450 Baht for a gearbox seal (which would be more than likely needed), so thats just about 2000Baht/axle. Not much to me but, to someone who has just had to pay for an oil change (fully synthetic as the car is gassed) new pads all around and two new tyres it's not an insignificent amount, especially to someone who thought that the only cost of running a car was gasoline and LPG! They also made a nice job of re-grinding her discs, 200Baht each I thought that was ok.............Food for thought.

Posted

So they are speaking about reconditioned axles then? Not used per se as in scrap yard used? That's another matter then altogether, if the price is right I'd opt for a reconditioned axle and stay away from the local tech doing it if possible.

That's just a rear bird where my searches have been concerned but a professionally reconditioned axle is obviously better then what I envisioned to be a scrap yard special..

650 baht for a boot sounds steep, I just bought a Lobro (first rate German boot) for about 200 baht less for my VW, gear box seal too I paid about 250 for the ones on my car.. Jeeez!! Everyone keeps telling me how expensive it is to own a VW over Jap cars :o ? My CV was damned expensive though @ 3800b :( but as stated it is top quality Lobro and there are cheaper versions available, but you pays your money and you takes your chances..

JFYI They can be cleaned throughly and inspected without displacing the bearings so no need to go through all that determination of where they came from and whatever...

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