LAOS a trip report 11/17 May 2014

[Dutchbike]

Since it was a while ago I did a longer bike trip and it was time to do my annual visa run, this year I decided to make it a combined business/pleasure trip and do a few days riding in Laos.

A good friend was happy to join me for the ride and the plan was made.

I always getting my visa in Savannakhet and we decided to enter at Vientianne do some mountain roads and end up in Savannakhet for my visa.

The bikes: me on my faithful Kawasaki KLX 250 and my friend on his Lifan cross 200 ( yes a Chinese bike) but before the Chinese bike critics jump in, it made the trip without any problems, but just in case we did pack some extra tools :-)

Day 1 Buriram province to Vientianne 459 km

We left a 6 AM and it was a pretty easy ride: Khon Kean Udon Thani and finally Nong Khai where the first friendship bridge is located. Those small displacement off road bikes are not the best for those long straight roads but with a steady speed of around 90km/h we made it to the bridge at 3 PM where we decided to give it go (and win some time the next day) and cross the border.

All together I took about 2,5 hours for the formalities ( and that included an entry stamp transferred from my old passport to my brand new one) Although at both sides of the border its not very clear where to go it all went fine.

Basically all you need is the bikes green book ( in your name) filling in some forms ( temporary ex/import) pay some small fees ( around 300 thb) and you good to go in ( of course you will need a Lao visa on arrival ( 1500 thb for Dutch nationality) I have to say the immigration officers in Laos where more friendly and helpful then there Thai colleagues.

Dont forget to buy insurance for Laos its just 150 thb and it will save a lot of trouble in case of an accident, you have to do it after you crossed the border and nobody is checking if you have one.

After that a short ride to the center of Vientianne where its not difficult to find a Guesthouse and a good meal.

Day 2 Vientianne (road nr 13) to Phou Khoun (intersection with the road nr 7) 267 km.

Again an early start (left around 7:00 AM from Vientianne) the first 30 kms where a bit busy and roads in bad condition, many potholes and unpaved parts. After around 70 kms the mountains came in sight and the nice views and scenery begun, Lunch at what seems to be backpackers paradise Vang Vieng. After that a lot of climbing and descending through a beautiful scenery we called it a day at Phou Khoun a small village at the intersection 13 ( the road north to Luang Prabang) and the 7 ( to Phonsavan) found a simple but nice guesthouse and a nice terrace for some beer Lao in the evening.

Day 3 Phou Khoun ( intersection 13-7 roads) to the small village of Ban Chom Thong ( on the 1D road) 375 km.

When we woke up it was nice cool and misty ( what actually where clouds Phou Khoun is about 1100 mtrs high)

A long day ahead since we were not sure in which state the 1 D road (south from Phonsavan) would be in (paved or not paved) Starting with some serious mountain roads. After about 100kms we were down in the valley leading to the city of Phonsvan were we had lunch. After that we had a bit of trouble finding the 1D road which turned out to be a fantastic road with stunning scenery, nice villages and friendly people, Those villages do not have many guesthouses and we were lucky, we found one in the small village of ChonThong just before dark.

Day 4 Ban ChonThong (1D road) Thakhek (next to the Mekong river) 288km

Another great day with fantastic scenery and mountain roads After reaching the end of the 1D road (intersection Lak Ha road nr 8) and plenty of time left we decided to make a left to Lak Xao ( 32 kms from the Vietnam border) and there take the 1E road through the Nam Theun Dam area which was a good decision because that 1E road was nice a quite a bit of an adventure with many kms unpaved and leading through jungle.

That Theun Dam area is very nice, there is a huge lake which seems to be created by the Nam Theun PowerStation on some maps there is no sight of the lake but its there! After reaching the 12 road ( which also leads to Vietnam) we reached Thakhek (with Nakhon Phanom) on the other side we checked in a room with a ( Mekong) view at the Mekong Hotel. An evening of Mekong view Beer Laos.

Day 5 Thakhek to Savannakhet 150 km.

A business day after waking up with a bit of a headache (mayby a Beer Lao to many) it was an easy ride to Savannakhet ( wheres the Thai consulate is located) we arrived at 10 AM and my visa application was a piece of cake. For the rest of the day we didnt do much since it was blistering hot: 40+ Celsius and after 4 days of intensive riding some parts of my body needed some rest.

Day 6 Savannakhet to Yasothon ( Thailand) 132km.

Again an easy day, since they hand out the passports at 2 PM a day with not much riding, after collecting my passport with a fresh visa, a quick ride to the friendship bridge 2 were departing was an easy process, on both sides handing the temporary ex/import forms back paying a fee of 200thb on the Thai side on back in Thailand, it all took about 10 minutes!! After that a short stint to the very quiet city of Yasothon were we spend the last night on the road before heading back home.

Day 7 Yasothon Buriram province 229km.

An easy ride back home where we arrived around 11 AM full with good memories, 1900kms of great riding

To end this this report I just want to tell how surprised I was about riding in Laos, and I wished i did it before, what a nice country, friendly people, and stunning scenery. Its not busy on the roads and I even felt saver on a bike then I sometimes feel in Thailand. We kept a slow speed, the roads are sometimes full of surprises (potholes, lots of loose gravel in the corners, stones dropped down from the mountain, no guard rails) I you miss a corner its a looong way down so be careful.

The bikes did fine and both needed only a chain adjustment down the road, For my KLX I could wish for a bit more comfortable seat, but hey you cant have it all, its a perfect bike for such a trip. I for sure will return to Laos and head more to the North ( Luang Prabang and beyond)

Thanks for reading and I hope this report makes more people decide to make a trip to Laos.

Dutchbike.

Here are some pics:

[dave_boo]

Awesome trip report.

[Gweiloman]

Great report, thanks. I did not realise that the Thai authorities will now let you ride bikes across the friendship bridges.

[ll2]

Thanks for the report and nice photos.

Looks like a great ride! Envy you man, would love to have time to go for a ride there.

Edited May 18, 2014 by ll2

[Dutchbike]

Great report, thanks. I did not realise that the Thai authorities will now let you ride bikes across the friendship bridges.

That's what i heard before but it seems that it's not always the case , for entry into Laos the bridge at Nong Khai seems to be the best bet,going back into Thailand is at most bridges allowed, although i've red that in some cases you will need ( pay)for an escort over the bridge, there is a lot of useful info on another forum, GTR riders.

[CTO]

THanks!, Appreciated and enjoyed the read

[ryanwiley]

Outstanding, Pieter!!!

...got your money's worth out of those new Pirelli Scorpion tires. Much smoother than the off-road tires, yes? Those mountains look beautiful, as do those Beer Lao empties!! I'm surprised also that it was so easy for you to get over the border. On my last run, I parked at the border and took the bus across. Next time I'm bringing the bike!

How was it keeping to the right side of the road? I've been on the left for so long now, it seemed strange to you on the other side!

Good thing you kept the KLX! ...perfect bike for a ride like that!

[BSJ]

Good report. I have heard several times you can't take bike over....but there you go, you did it!

[Dutchbike]

Outstanding, Pieter!!!

...got your money's worth out of those new Pirelli Scorpion tires. Much smoother than the off-road tires, yes? Those mountains look beautiful, as do those Beer Lao empties!! I'm surprised also that it was so easy for you to get over the border. On my last run, I parked at the border and took the bus across. Next time I'm bringing the bike!

How was it keeping to the right side of the road? I've been on the left for so long now, it seemed strange to you on the other side!

Good thing you kept the KLX! ...perfect bike for a ride like that!

Thanks Ryan,

It sort of surprised me, but driving on the right side just came back as natural ( just as it was before i moved to Thailand)and changing back again to the left after Laos as well.

Those Pirelli's performed great, we mostly stayed on paved roads, but also encountered a fair bit of gravel roads and some mud.

but indeed for those long tarmac strechtes in Thailand much smoother and stable at "higher" speeds (but high speed is relative on a KLX :-)

Cheers

[ccarbaugh]

Wonderful report - thanks! (No mention of the social interactions/nightlife situation- ????)

[Lancelot]

Good report OP, thanks for sharing

[DualSportBiker]

Great stuff, hope to follow you up there sometime this year... Cheers.

Sent - how is not that important...

[guzzi850m2]

I echo the great trip report crowd, very cool man, sometimes I wish I was single again, he-he.

It seems like small off-road bikes are the way to go up there.

OP just out of curiosity, do you think you can do a trip like that on say a PCX?

[ll2]

I echo the great trip report crowd, very cool man, sometimes I wish I was single again, he-he.

It seems like small off-road bikes are the way to go up there.

OP just out of curiosity, do you think you can do a trip like that on say a PCX?

you can. easily. A lot of people travel all over South East Asia on 100cc honda waves!

[Dutchbike]

I echo the great trip report crowd, very cool man, sometimes I wish I was single again, he-he.

It seems like small off-road bikes are the way to go up there.

OP just out of curiosity, do you think you can do a trip like that on say a PCX?

You don't have to be single to go on such a trip, I'm married but still "allowed" to go on such a trip every now and then :-)

As it was my first trip into Laos, I planned it on paved roads and i would say the route we took would be possible on a PCX.

But road conditions vary and with the rainseason on it's way some could easliy wash away ( landslides)

As i wrote before i will return to Laos and head more to the North, It's a wunderful country.

[Smileygc]

Hi Dutchbike

Great report and lovely photos. I have recently moved from Phuket to Nakhon Phanom, but did a similiar trip from Phuket into Laos last July. I agree lovely people, stunning scenery and a wonderful trip.

Happy to ride out and meet up if it's convenient.

G

[DavidMavec]

I echo the great trip report crowd, very cool man, sometimes I wish I was single again, he-he.

It seems like small off-road bikes are the way to go up there.

OP just out of curiosity, do you think you can do a trip like that on say a PCX?

I did southern Laos on my trusty Honda Click 110 cc, excellent bike for the occasion. I'll be back to tackle the north in a couple months.

[AllanB]

Yes, very nice story, some good information too, a couple of questions..

Where did you get your Laos insurance and how was your mate's 200cc power on the steep mountain roads?

I am wondering if there are any issues travelling two up, as i would like take the Mrs next winter? Like you I am not in any hurry 80-90kph max seems a good and then crawling along at other times to avoid potholes seems sensible too.

Thanks for the report...

[Dutchbike]

Yes, very nice story, some good information too, a couple of questions..

Where did you get your Laos insurance and how was your mate's 200cc power on the steep mountain roads?

I am wondering if there are any issues travelling two up, as i would like take the Mrs next winter? Like you I am not in any hurry 80-90kph max seems a good and then crawling along at other times to avoid potholes seems sensible too.

Thanks for the report...

The insurance we got after we were done with all the border formalities, and already crossed the border, there where a few offices after the Laos immigration and we took it from Allianz Laos, you get a sticker ( proof of payment) what you have to put on your bike. Nobody is checking if you have insurance but it's highly recommanded that you do it.

The 200cc Lifan cross from my mate did OK on those steep mountain roads, but then again the speed was low, the only "moments" I had where when i was distracted my the magnificent scenery.... oeps another corner coming up :-)

2up would be possible but it depends which bike you have, and enough room for your gear.

[AllanB]

Is there any way of fixing the seat problem Dutchbike, without making the seat position too high? I quite fancy one of these 250's either Honda, or Kawasaki, but the comfort side (or lack of it) does put me off, also two up doesn't look that great either.

[Dutchbike]

Is there any way of fixing the seat problem Dutchbike, without making the seat position too high? I quite fancy one of these 250's either Honda, or Kawasaki, but the comfort side (or lack of it) does put me off, also two up doesn't look that great either.

I learnt to life with the ( on longer trips) uncomfortable seat of the KLX,

The problem is that it is just to narrow,, you could have a seat shop make it wider, or order an ( expensive) aftermarket ( gel) seat.

An easy solution for a more comfortable seat is to find a sheepkin and just put it on the existing seat ( old school RTW riders used that a lot))

2up on a KLX (or CRF) on longer multiday trips is in my opinion not an option, the 250's are just to small/light and also a bit underpowered, and the subframe is not designed for heavy loads. for 1 person it's a perfect bike.

[maximillian]

Thanks Dutchbike, I also enjoyed to read and look at the photos, very much.

If I may ask: My bike, a CB500X, is in my wife's name. Would you know what kind of document, paperwork I'd need to cross the border ?

Unfortunately we cannot travel together because of our animals.

[Dutchbike]

Thanks Dutchbike, I also enjoyed to read and look at the photos, very much.

If I may ask: My bike, a CB500X, is in my wife's name. Would you know what kind of document, paperwork I'd need to cross the border ?

Unfortunately we cannot travel together because of our animals.

As far as I know the green book has to be in your own name, but I believe a statement from the owner ( your wife) which states she's allowing you to take the bike out of the country will be accepted by the custom officials. I red this is also accepted in case of rental bikes.

[Gweiloman]

Thanks Dutchbike, I also enjoyed to read and look at the photos, very much.

If I may ask: My bike, a CB500X, is in my wife's name. Would you know what kind of document, paperwork I'd need to cross the border ?

Unfortunately we cannot travel together because of our animals.

As far as I know the green book has to be in your own name, but I believe a statement from the owner ( your wife) which states she's allowing you to take the bike out of the country will be accepted by the custom officials. I red this is also accepted in case of rental bikes.

Yes, if the bike is not in your name then you will need a letter from the owner allowing you to take the bike out of the country. More detailed information is available on GT Rider and RideAsia.net

[aitch52]

Kudos to you Dutchbike, a great read, time to get up to Laos, thanks mate!!

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