What to use as a tile backer on my balcony

[Cyrus123]

I'm making a kitchen on my balcony but I'm not sure what to use as a back to glue the tiles onto the wall.

Back home I'd try to get cement or plasterboard, this is the first time I'm doing this and A not sure what's commonly used and for sale in Thailand and B not sure what will be long lasting with these moist conditions.

I guess I could just glue onto the paint but I'd prefer something that will hold for years to come.

Would like to hear some ideas and experiences!

I live in Pattaya, the wood department of both HomePro and HomeWorks have been closed down so if anyone knows where to get the stuff I need that would be helpfull as well.

Edited October 7, 2014 by petercool

[RubbaJohnny]

The key is the key esp in a humid climate steam etc.

Our tiler charges aroudn 100bahts a box 11 tiles so its a no brainer.

If your happy with the visual and cost steel is best splashback as used in pro kitchens worldwide

If DIY use matches to space and get a good tilecutter there pennnies.Good luck post up your pix

Grout expectations

[Cyrus123]

It's DIY and on a budget. Going for a custom made granite slab though, two pieces with cutting go for max 4000thb here.

The tiling is for the back of the cooking area. I'll be using a glass cutter pensil. My worries are about the backing of the tiles, I think cement board would be best but no idea where to get it and if it lasts well in this climate!

[topt]

It's DIY and on a budget. Going for a custom made granite slab though, two pieces with cutting go for max 4000thb here.

The tiling is for the back of the cooking area. I'll be using a glass cutter pensil. My worries are about the backing of the tiles, I think cement board would be best but no idea where to get it and if it lasts well in this climate!

If by cement board you mean the Con wood or Shera board types then available at Thai Watsadu on Sukhumvit past Makro going south.

[Maestro]

Cyrus123 does not say why he wants his topic deleted, and having read it I see nothing that would seem to necessitate a deletion.

[wayned]

If the current wall is rendered cement just score the current wall and use cement mixed with sand. There's no need to put a covering over it. If the wall is plasterboard then it needs to be covered with cement board first. The stuff is available at any building supply store but usually in 4' x 8' sheets, put the rough side out, and it is vary hard to transport without breaking so you need to have it delivered.

[weegee]

If the current wall is rendered cement just score the current wall and use cement mixed with sand. There's no need to put a covering over it. If the wall is plasterboard then it needs to be covered with cement board first. The stuff is available at any building supply store but usually in 4' x 8' sheets, put the rough side out, and it is vary hard to transport without breaking so you need to have it delivered.

Good suggestion "Wayned"....And he should not do it in wet weather with the sheets wet. Keep everything dry and only wet it when you are applying the tiles...

The side of the sheet that faces the wall, should be primed and painted before installation , in my opinion.....

[AhFarangJa]

Please tell me if I am wrong, but the op mentions using a tile cutter pencil. These are used in U.K. for tiles, but here I have only found the harder tiles that require a grinder to cut them. Or have I been looking in the wrong place?

[wayned]

I either use an angle grinder with a diamond blade or this:

Diamond glass cutters, pencils, are available but I've never tried using one to cut tile. I buy mine from the shop that sells and cuts glass.

[Cyrus123]

Cyrus123 does not say why he wants his topic deleted, and having read it I see nothing that would seem to necessitate a deletion.

Sorry, I felt the part where I said HomePro and HomeWorks closed their wood departments could be misinterpreted. They have a wide variety of wood products, doors, kitchens etc, the only thing that was closed down was the part where they sawed the wood for you and the rods/multiplex were removed. Perhaps HomeWorks still has the cementboard, will have to look.

Other reason is that there basically isn't anything to use but cementboard so the topic was kind of unnecessary though perhaps usefull to others.

Thanks everyone for responding!

Edited October 8, 2014 by Cyrus123

[Cyrus123]

Please tell me if I am wrong, but the op mentions using a tile cutter pencil. These are used in U.K. for tiles, but here I have only found the harder tiles that require a grinder to cut them. Or have I been looking in the wrong place?

Never tried it but I've seen thick glass being cut with the pencils which seemed a hell of a lot tougher than these basic red clay tiles with a layer of glazing.

The idea is you just cut the glazing with the pencil and break it, I think it'll work.

Edited October 8, 2014 by Cyrus123

[eyecatcher]

These tile snippers are limited in their use.

Ok for thin tiles and tiles upto 300mm and you cannot trim less than 15mm from the edge of a tile.

The wheel basically induces a crack through the harder glazed surface hence the wheel needs to be sharp and oiled

The inverted v is used to apply pressure both sides so at the edge it is unable to do so evenly and your tile will break or you just end up snapping off a leaf shape.

For bigger tiles and thicker tiles this tool doesnt have a wide enough "v" to make a succesful cut.....and sometimes it is easiet to break the tile over a thin pencil or a matchstick.

My advice if you doing a splasback is to keep the tiles as small as possible to alleviate cuts. Use 100x100 tiles they are easy to fit and look classier and big stores always selling old stock off for less than 10bt a piece.

At least you dont need to worry about a cutter.

And you can apply direct to any masonry surface with the right adhesive no need to key at all as every tile has the most ornate keyed back already pressed into the tile.