When to change from conventional oil to synthetic?

[canthai55]

1 hour ago, papa al said:

Water entering in crankcase will settle to bottom, an oxygen-rare location.

Except the droplets too light to settle out, which will stick to rod and main journals, cylinder walls, etc etc etc. Think of the beads of water that form on a glass of cold liquid. Do they all run to the bottom ? No.

So why would they do it in an engine ? Answer - they will not.

What Guzzi said is true. No amount of wiggling will escape this fact. No amount of facts will change the real world situation.

 

[PattayaDavid]

5 hours ago, papa al said:

OP:

"The bike ...  only had 4 kilometers on the odometer ...  So far, I have only ridden it for 300 kilometres,"

300 + 4 ≠ 600

OP here,

 

The CBR 150R was originally purchased in August 2013 and just driven from the store to my neighbors home (4 KM) where it had sat for 4 years parked in an enclosed garage.  The original owner passed away a year or two later and the bike, among other bikes, had remained untouched and under a cover.  He left everything to his ex-wife (Thai) who lives in the UK.  She had recently received judgment from a UK court granting her ownership of his property and in October she was in Thailand and wanted to sell off some of his personal property.  She was friends with my wife and asked if we might be interested in purchasing a bike.  To make a long story somewhat shorter, we bought the bike, actually two of them, one for me and one for my wife's son, both CBR 150R's.

 

The bike had to be re-registered because taxes had not been paid on it for more than three years so a new green book was required.  I didn't ride the bike for about 6 weeks waiting for the new green book and tag.  When I finally started riding it, I got to thinking about the engine oil.  I thought that all of the fluids had been changed, but wasn't sure hence my initial post.

 

Papa, I was mistaken when I first looked at the owner's manual; I got miles mixed up with kilometers hence the 600 km oil change which was actually .6 miles.  The correct initial service is at 1000 km then every 4000 km thereafter.

 

I took the bike to Honda on Tuesday with 300 km on the odometer and had the oil change (conventional oil), clutch and chain adjusted (130 Baht).  I asked about chain lube, but he showed me that the chain didn't need it; still had lubrication on it.  I didn't change any of the other fluids, clutch, brake or coolant, but am considering it although all seems to be working well.  Should I go ahead and replace the fluids?  I was thinking that I would wait until the 1000 km service and ask them what they think.  I'm thinking that I will switch to synthetic oil at the 1000 km service.  I plan to ride the bike more often in the future.

 

Anyway, I hope that this clears things up a bit; I appreciate all of he input. 

[canthai55]

Brake fluid will pull water right out of the air. Good practice to flush and replace yearly.

Many will say overkill. Some will say I do not want to be killed. For the sake of a few hundred baht.

Coolant has additives which will break down over time, but a bike sitting for a long time will not experience much of this. It does not go bad in a jug sitting on the shelf, so if no contamination visible - white junk in it, discolored - you should be good to go.

Inspect the bike often, looking for tell tale signs of a leak caused by an old dry gasket, or o-ring.

Any sudden changes in idle speed - or quality -  inspect the intake rubbers - may be dried out and sucking air, which will lean the mixture, which will cause piston crown temperatures to soar, which will seize the engine.

Drive chain - use it until it wears out, and replace with new sprockets front and rear.

[papa al]

There is no clutch fluid. 

Flush the brake systems.

If water temp. is normal, cooling system is okay.

Set tire pressures to spec.

They love to rev.

 

We're gonna need to see a pic please.

 

[PattayaDavid]

2 hours ago, papa al said:

There is no clutch fluid. 

Flush the brake systems.

If water temp. is normal, cooling system is okay.

Set tire pressures to spec.

They love to rev.

 

We're gonna need to see a pic please.

 

Yeah, I don't know why I said clutch fluid, but I will have the brake fluid changed.  The coolant appears to be clear and the temperature has never run about 3 bars.  I was concerned about the tires being so old, but when I bought the bike, the tires looked brand new, no cracks, no flat spots, little rubber tits still on them.  I imagine that the rubber is quite hard by now and since they are the stock tire, I will look at getting them changed sometime down the road.  After reading many posts, the consensus appears to be that the factory tires are not very good with many riders changing them right away.  Here are a few pictures of my bike: 

[papa al]

Ok

papa stopped by mocy shop 2day.

[Soi ... ... 4 on map]

They will be installing Shell Advance 10W40    //  100% Synthetic  [ester-based]  //  B320

[vs B150 dino.]

for my 2008 ceeber,     45Kkm clocked.

Taking a run to BuriRam soon.

We'll see if she goes a little faster.