2 hours ago, Metropolitian said:

 

Or where is the 8 shaped hole in the wood beam?

 

Will the bed be positioned at that location? Consider keeping one of the outlets below, you can switch that outlet by adding one more switch with the other two (you can have 3 in a row).

And the setup for the led strip at that outlet below or the bed.

Many led strips are powered by a adapter, but there do exist led strips working on 220v.  Either way it is useful to have a power outlet near where you will mount the led strip.

Colored ledstrips has 4 or 5 (with warm white included) wires. DC distance over wire is best kept short.

 

i am working on everything as i talk and think, so the 8 hole wasnt in the picture yet and it turned out to be a wooden square where I will just mount it on a sheet of thin plywood

 

and I will not widen the alcove, i was so happy i was finished as it makes a lot of dust and noise, also I am not really the most prefered one by my juristic, if you want to read up on that (there's a thread about that if you are interested, called where to buy shower niche/lintel).

Actually, I want to replace the light switch with a smart switch, probably by koogeek (koogeek sucks hard, but it works and is much cheaper than lightwave RF).
it has only a two way switch. But now I think of it, it might be cool to control the led strips seperately.... hmmmmz hahah Anyways I really want it to be smart via siri, any ideas?

 

edit: as you can see the space is really tight there, do i really need ajunction box? 

First thing I would do would be to rewire with correct colors.

 

If you want a smart switch, I've been doing Tasmota on Tyua compatible stuff, but you need to be savvy with tech to do it. In any case, here: https://tasmota.github.io/docs/ . Connect to a Home Assistant box (https://www.home-assistant.io/), CCP spyware not included. I use Android assistant for voice control, not sure how iOS integrates but it probably does. Happy hacking.

As an electrical inspector, I'm speechless. I sincerely would not know where to begin in trying to be of help.

In the USA, every splice must happen in a listed box and every box must be accessible with a cover.

But I know... TIT.

4 minutes ago, ding said:

As an electrical inspector, I'm speechless. I sincerely would not know where to begin in trying to be of help.

In the USA, every splice must happen in a listed box and every box must be accessible with a cover.

But I know... TIT.

Mind to share some knowledge? So a listed box is a junction box right?
What else? you are free to scatter random thoughts XD

 

Looks like a good place ?

 

And the extra switch for switching one of the outlets below, where you can connect the adapter for the led lights for the monster under the bed.

On 7/23/2020 at 6:02 PM, Polarizing said:

 

You want them there?

Consider taking out or modify that square and put in a long wall mount box.
I have bought mine on Shopee at 'pjrelectric' ,

The box : click here

The plate: click here

 

I'm not a fan of placing sockets right next to switches, easy to flip one by accident when plugging in and it's a bit ugly. I'd give at least 15cm between the switches and sockets or simply keep all sockets near floor level. Not sure if there's going to be a table or something there though.

18 hours ago, Metropolitian said:

You want them there?

Consider taking out or modify that square and put in a long wall mount box.
I have bought mine on Shopee at 'pjrelectric' ,

The box : click here

The plate: click here

 

This post really inspire me, the amount of detail u put in someone else's work without reward is insane. Are you around onnut, Ill buy you dinner hahah!
Also thanks so much for sharing that junction box and link. Whats your background? Your drawings are so clear and detailed! how did you get to where you are now and is this just a hobby for you (helping out electric rookies ;D, saving peoples life etc)?

@DrTuner Thanks for your opinion, I was planning  to do a smart switch at the top and there 5cm under the sockets. I want to maximize the space so no table within hand reach, as minimal as possible. We tend to still charge our phones with cables, otherwise I might consider digging a bit of wall and put a wireless charger underneath the horizontal part in the alcove and eliminating the sockets... just a future thought tho, since I dont really chase mobile phones... still on iphone 7 here hahaha
 

On 7/23/2020 at 7:50 PM, DrTuner said:

I've been doing Tasmota on Tyua compatible stuff,

Plus one for Tasmota on Tyua IOT  devices  though these days it seems you'll have to get the soldering iron out to "flash" the new firmware instead of doing it via WiFi as they (Tyua) have added some encryption to thwart that on the latest devices.

57 minutes ago, johng said:

Plus one for Tasmota on Tyua IOT  devices  though these days it seems you'll have to get the soldering iron out to "flash" the new firmware instead of doing it via WiFi as they (Tyua) have added some encryption to thwart that on the latest devices.

Yes, I had to solder the header and use a TTL-USB serial adapter to flash a couple of later models. It's not as convenient as the OTA, but I got the gear so not a biggy. Some lights that are glued together might be a problem.

 

Better get old stock from some obscure seller, they can still be programmed via OTA.

On 7/22/2020 at 8:06 PM, Grumpy one said:

How do you test the power cable stand in a puddle and hold 1 wire

Needs to be in your  mouth for 100%  success..........or  dare I suggest another orifice?

A small update, also to check if I did everything correct.
I bought the authentic wago's to support their business!
hmm the small pipe between junction box and backbox is loose,shall I just remove it and let the wires loose there or is it okay as it is?
currently waiting for a smart dimmer and the backbox for it.
By the way I had problems with opening up the holes on the junction box, i tried to slam it with a flat screwdriver and hammer but it didn't break open, so I just cut it open and its not neat at all. I also dont have the pvc pipe connectors for it. I think those are just minor and can be neglected. Please correct me if anything is wrong! Thanks
 

A Ty-wrap is good for securing wires just outside the box and another just inside.  Don't know about problem opening the holes. I've not had the issue. Cheers. 

The "holes" in some PVC boxes aren't knock-out. I always drill mine using a spade bit intended for wood, but just cut out should be OK.

 

 

 

Do I need a 3 holed wago in order to control 2 ledstrips at different locations ????

2 minutes ago, Polarizing said:

Do I need a 3 holed wago in order to control 2 ledstrips at different locations ????

A Wago is a connector (not a switch).  If, for example, you want a switch to control the on/off of two separated loads, you could use a 3 hole Wago to connect the output from the switch to the two loads.

On 8/4/2020 at 6:30 PM, Polarizing said:

A small update, also to check if I did everything correct.
I bought the authentic wago's to support their business!
hmm the small pipe between junction box and backbox is loose,shall I just remove it and let the wires loose there or is it okay as it is?
currently waiting for a smart dimmer and the backbox for it.
By the way I had problems with opening up the holes on the junction box, i tried to slam it with a flat screwdriver and hammer but it didn't break open, so I just cut it open and its not neat at all. I also dont have the pvc pipe connectors for it. I think those are just minor and can be neglected. Please correct me if anything is wrong! Thanks
 

The plastic box on the left wouldn't hurt the wiring but the metal box on the right can.

Officially the wiring should be protected with a grommet in the hole of the box, but a cable gland or a conduit hose connector can do the same.

 

Grommet:

 

For DIY like this, you can , unorthodoxially, use something else wrapped around the wiring.

I always kept some stripped off insulation sheets from a bigger cable. (those grey VMVK cables) in the  bitsbox here.

And I remember even used a piece of a garden hose in narrow situation once when I didn't had a flexible electrical hose at hand at request to fix something in short time while visiting family. ????

As long the metal doesn't penetrate the wiring insulation.

 

Looking at the picture, try to use a 90' tube connector instead of the one you use now.

 

 

I am using a flex hose for these situations, and have always a roll in stock.

 

 

7 hours ago, Metropolitian said:

The plastic box on the left wouldn't hurt the wiring but the metal box on the right can.

Officially the wiring should be protected with a grommet in the hole of the box, but a cable gland or a conduit hose connector can do the same.

 

Grommet:

 

For DIY like this, you can , unorthodoxially, use something else wrapped around the wiring.

I always kept some stripped off insulation sheets from a bigger cable. (those grey VMVK cables) in the  bitsbox here.

And I remember even used a piece of a garden hose in narrow situation once when I didn't had a flexible electrical hose at hand at request to fix something in short time while visiting family. ????

As long the metal doesn't penetrate the wiring insulation.

 

Looking at the picture, try to use a 90' tube connector instead of the one you use now.

 

 

I am using a flex hose for these situations, and have always a roll in stock.

 

 

Thanks, that flexhose is def a great idea as im too lazy to bend the tube using heat (don't have a heatgun and hairdryers was not enough). As for the grommet, I checked the metal back box and it isn't that sharp. I will take that risk or jam some electrical tape around it. I also checked the wiring with my other koogeek smart dimmer and it works. 1 Hot, L1, L2 and a Neutral, the Neutral is a 1.5, i think it doesnt matter right? since it is only used to slightly power the dimmer so it stays connected.

1 hour ago, Polarizing said:

Thanks, that flexhose is def a great idea as im too lazy to bend the tube using heat (don't have a heatgun and hairdryers was not enough). 

Fill with sand, plug ends and use the gas stove. I have a heatgun but that's how I'd do it in a pinch. PVC doesn't need a lot of heat, you'll feel it give. And use very dry sand of course unless you want to create an explosion.

2 minutes ago, DrTuner said:

Fill with sand, plug ends and use the gas stove. I have a heatgun but that's how I'd do it in a pinch. PVC doesn't need a lot of heat, you'll feel it give. And use very dry sand of course unless you want to create an explosion.

i did it with water before, just dont like the mess it creates hahaha, and i dont have a gas stove either.

Get an electrician!

1 minute ago, PatOngo said:

Get an electrician!

For what? to mess up my wiring, so I have to guess what he did and solve the problem?

8 hours ago, Polarizing said:

For what? to mess up my wiring, so I have to guess what he did and solve the problem?

Get a REAL electrician!

1 hour ago, PatOngo said:

Get a REAL electrician!

very useful, thanks. Maybe you can try to elaborate in the future.

8 hours ago, PatOngo said:

Get a REAL electrician!

Unfortunately while the do exist in LOS they are very few and far between ????

55 minutes ago, johng said:

Unfortunately while the do exist in LOS they are very few and far between ????

Not so. The many good ones just don't work for upcountry peanuts. 

1 minute ago, bankruatsteve said:

The many good ones just don't work for upcountry peanuts.

Ok they are earning good money...Is there a  list of "officially" approved and registered Thai electricians

somewhere on the interweb (or any where)  we can find them ?

1 minute ago, johng said:

Ok they are earning good money...Is there a  list of "officially" approved and registered Thai electricians

somewhere on the interweb (or any where)  we can find them ?

Crossy probably knows. About a year ago (?) Thailand started a certification system but haven't seen much more on that. 

2 hours ago, johng said:

Ok they are earning good money...Is there a  list of "officially" approved and registered Thai electricians

somewhere on the interweb (or any where)  we can find them ?

There is no list but most of them are working for EGAT, PEA, MEA and big companies many will take private extra work. One thing that could help is completing your profile so letting others know which area you are in.

11 hours ago, bankruatsteve said:

Crossy probably knows. About a year ago (?) Thailand started a certification system but haven't seen much more on that. 

 

Believe it or not the registration scheme started in 2017, I've heard nothing since.

 

 

I'm quite sure that even the sparkies working on the big housing projects are could be probably are not actually registered by this scheme. The village "chang" with his neon and roll of tape certainly isn't.

 

Word of mouth is always the best way to find a craftsman here, but 99% of people wouldn't know a good installation if it fell on them.