Once you know that the switch is working correctly (or not) then putting in to your setup (or not) will be simple.

 

if you do the testing with your setup you don’t know if it’s the switch or your setup that is the problem.

 

test components separately before testing a system.

 

yes the system was working but was the old test switch wired the same way or was it “fixed” to work

2 hours ago, Susco said:

That looks like a LOGIC nightmare, especially with the timer power L/N wiring looking like it's being 'borrowed' from two different contactors already. 

 

Me, I'd be pulling the bodge job out, sketch up a diagram like MaxPower posted then follow just that (and completely ignore what went on before).

1 hour ago, Susco said:

When I press manual switch repeatedly  it goes to

 

off . Red light off

 

auto : redlight off

 

on : red light on'

 

auto : red light on

While interesting the red light on the switch doesn’t tell you which (3, 4, 5) are connected with the light on or off.

 

as I have mentioned a few times 3, 4, 5, may not be connected in the way shown on the switch. They should but sometimes they are not.

2 hours ago, RichCor said:

That looks like a LOGIC nightmare, especially with the timer power L/N wiring looking like it's being 'borrowed' from two different contactors already. 

L goes to 2 contactors, 1 in the bottom row and from there to the one above it.

 

Reason is that when I operate the floodlights by the wall switch, the bottom contactors engage. The wall switch is operational 24/7 for obvious reasons, and I can switch them on from 2 locations, which are not two-way switches.

 

When the alarm goes of the 2 top row contactors engage

 

My setup is 4 x 1500W halogen lights and 3 LED lights, spread all over the property, so not all the lights are on the house.

 

The confusion was with that the red light on the switch would not go off when set to on-auto, which was resolved after @Crossy explained why that was.

 

The next confusion was that I had the wires coming from the panel connected to 5, which was again resolved when Crossy explained that for my setup connectors 3 & 4 should be used.

 

It is working now the way it should work, and the way it has always worked.

 

When alarm floodlights get only engaged between 18.00 and 06.00.

 

With the wall switches I can switch on the lights 24/7 from 2 locations, independent of the alarm, but I have to switch it off at the same switch where I switched it on

 

In the picture you also see the round timer switch, which have red light on only when the alarm goes off.

 

The reason for that is not clear, but the lights are operated by the external siren connector on the panel.

 

The siren sends a constant pulse, but my siren is a truck horn. At the side off the siren are 2 of those round timer switches, so the horn goes off in pulses. With those 2 timers I can adjust how long the horn blows and the time between each blow