It's the same everywhere in the hub of incompetence. Currently here also 130V, probably mixed in with some 300V spikes, only because there is some rain.

Freezer already completely defrosted, although it's an inverter, so should be able to run on 130V. Guess the spikes have fried the PCB or something.

Just called the call center and asked when they gonna start to compensate customers for the damage they do to their appliances.

 

Thailand who consider themselves the center of the universe, but can't keep electric running when it's raining

Looks like side by side freezer is dead. having 170V now but still not starting up.

 

Thank you PEA

25 minutes ago, CallumWK said:

Looks like side by side freezer is dead. having 170V now but still not starting up.

 

Thank you PEA

I have had the PCB in my Smeg oven either changed or repaired at least four times. Now looks like a fifth is on the cards.

 

The last time, the technician told me I should keep the oven and hotplate turned off at the main board all the time, and only turn on for cooking.

8 hours with 130V.

Can't shower because pumps don't work, can't cook food because oven doesn't work, all frozen food have to throw away because it is defrosted.

Were told 5 pm will be fixed, then 8pm will be fixed, they are still working. Of course it is a national holiday and they probably are not working or don't have access to the parts they need.

 

Sure next week there will be an article Thailand gonna be the hub of electricity for the whole of Asia

For those wanting a solution, if I had outage problems, I'd definitely get a solar generator.  Here's a site that will give you a clue, how long things, like a fridge would run, with just a 1+kwh battery solar generator.

 

I reckon this is the important one.  Although, if full, our freezers would definitely last at least 8 hrs, as basically an ice box, filled with frozen food.

 

 

IF thawed, simply cook it on gas hob.  Don't think there is any house in TH, that is all electric.

16 hours ago, CallumWK said:

Looks like side by side freezer is dead. having 170V now but still not starting up.

The only thing you should have connected when there is under-voltage is lamps and appliances with universal voltage rating (marked 110-220V).

Anything else is at risk of getting destroyed.

 

And another brown out. It's beyond a joke.

Crazy. 

For what it is worth ( probably not much) I have noticed flickers and slight brown outs here in Samut Prakan. I was guessing higher than previous demand on the grid as my Thai wife has been flipping the AC on fairly often, complaining “warm”. Notable as she is normally “ thrifty “ re: the electric bill.

On 10/14/2024 at 1:32 PM, khunPer said:

You should get a phase-protection installed on brown-out sensitive circuits like oven and aircons...

https://sng2535.com/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/95294cdf8165732e458b74a0fa2552ae/w/i/wip-wop2.jpg

It will shut the phase if mains voltage drops below or raise above a pre set percentage of voltage, for example 15% or 20%, and only reset after a number of minutes, for example five, so your units won't shift constantly between off and on.

khunPer.

I know nothing about electrics. I looked that up, but isn't that for single phase?

W-OP2 is a digital electronic instrument designed for AC voltage monitoring and protection in single phase system

This dodgy electrical system here on the island has just cost me another THB17,000. Burnt out the circuit board on my induction hob, and cannot be fixed or replaced, so new hob needed.

 

I will see  if I can find one to be fitted behind the oven.

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

5 minutes ago, phetphet said:

khunPer.

I know nothing about electrics. I looked that up, but isn't that for single phase?

W-OP2 is a digital electronic instrument designed for AC voltage monitoring and protection in single phase system

This dodgy electrical system here on the island has just cost me another THB17,000. Burnt out the circuit board on my induction hob, and cannot be fixed or replaced, so new hob needed.

 

I will see  if I can find one to be fitted behind the oven.

 

Thanks.

 

 

3-phase units are also available but are usually used to protect 3-phase equipment which can be damaged by loss of one phase.

 

If you only have single-phase appliances on your 3-phase supply then using 3 x single-phase protectors would be better for keeping at least some supply on.

4 hours ago, phetphet said:

khunPer.

I know nothing about electrics. I looked that up, but isn't that for single phase?

Yes, single phase; i.e., 220 volt. You need one for each circuit or phase with sensitive equipment.

 

Photo is the inside of my protection box for my three aircon circuits, phase-protectors with magnetic switches...

 

If you have 3-phase you could consider adding a phase-selector for your essential circuits.

 

http://www.reletek.cn/wap/productlist.aspx?cateid=37

 

This will pick the best phase and so keep your single-phase kit working even if one phase dies.

 

When I worked in New Delhi our apartment had a more, er, manual system. Next to the TV were 3 outlets, one on each phase, plug the TV into the one that actually made it work

 

1 hour ago, Crossy said:

If you have 3-phase you could consider adding a phase-selector for your essential circuits.

 

http://www.reletek.cn/wap/productlist.aspx?cateid=37

 

This will pick the best phase and so keep your single-phase kit working even if one phase dies.

 

When I worked in New Delhi our apartment had a more, er, manual system. Next to the TV were 3 outlets, one on each phase, plug the TV into the one that actually made it work

 

Thanks for the hint, that might be useful for some on Samui.

 

My three phases on a good day with sunshine and tailwind...

 

 

On a bad rainy day with headwind the voltage can be as low as around 90 – the lowest I've seen – and up to over 300...

 

 

Voltage can even shift rapidly...

 

 

I use a few automatic voltage stabilizers and numerous UPS units to protect sensitive electronic equipment, which so far probably have saved lots of electronic lifes from fatal electrocution...

You could buy some Stabalizers/Automatic Voltage Regulators (AVRs).

I have 3 phase supply and 3 AVRs or one on each incoming phase. 

Read the AVR specs. Should say 160v to 310v or something like that. So if the incoming voltage is 160v your house should have 220v from the AVR that feeds the house or Consumer Unit.

I like the LION brand of AVR and I see they are now back in stock at our Global House. They now have a single 3 phase unit.

 

Pictures are of my AVRs. One failed last year so bough that orange one.

You can see from the 2nd picture the voltage readings, 231v incoming regulated to 220v.

Trouble with a phase protector (can set the upper and lower voltage) is if all phases are low or just on the boarder of low or high, it could be switching the protected item ON/OFF all the time, even though you can set a delay period before switching.

That was the problem I had with the feed to my pool pump; ON then OFF, ON then OFF.

 

13 hours ago, khunPer said:

 

 

On a bad rainy day with headwind the voltage can be as low as around 90 – the lowest I've seen – and up to over 300...

 

 

 

 

 

The above is loss of one phase on the high-voltage side and the two remaining phases will only give correct voltage on one low-voltage phase. The neutral from the PEA high to low voltage transformer will become skewed and can cause destroyed consumer electronics. When you have a 3-phase supply you also need a phase guard that disconnects all 3 phases when 1 phase is out.

On 6/26/2025 at 6:57 PM, lom said:

 

The above is loss of one phase on the high-voltage side and the two remaining phases will only give correct voltage on one low-voltage phase. The neutral from the PEA high to low voltage transformer will become skewed and can cause destroyed consumer electronics. When you have a 3-phase supply you also need a phase guard that disconnects all 3 phases when 1 phase is out.

To my knowledge neutral is grounded on every second mast. Both remaining phases worked perfect as 220 volt supply.

21 minutes ago, khunPer said:

To my knowledge neutral is grounded on every second mast. Both remaining phases worked perfect as 220 volt supply.

I don't think it is but if it is it doesn't change anything. The picture does not show "both remaining phases working perfect" it shows one perfect phase and two phases which would have been at 105V each if they were loaded equally by all consumers on the low-voltage line. They are not equally loaded and that will create a skewed Neutral which easily burns equipment for customers. Three single phase protectors like you have does not help against that, you need the type of phase protector/guard that Crossy showed in his post. 

Btw, the reason for the Neutral getting skewed/offset is that there is no Neutral on the high-voltage side, it is created on the low-voltage side of the transformer and its position as a middle point between phases is dependent on the transformer getting all three phases. With only two high-voltage phases, the Neutral will move its position.

39 minutes ago, lom said:

Btw, the reason for the Neutral getting skewed/offset is that there is no Neutral on the high-voltage side, it is created on the low-voltage side of the transformer and its position as a middle point between phases is dependent on the transformer getting all three phases. With only two high-voltage phases, the Neutral will move its position.

I know, but the problem is not the transformer from high voltage to low voltage, the problem is a broken low voltage cable/line. In my case salty corrosion in a connection on the line by the beachfront.