2 hours ago, brfsa2 said:

I would not recommend the Atto3 if you travel long distances, the Seal on the other hand is much better from the public opinions and aerodynamics.

the atto3 60kWh battery is not that big, a 70-80kWh is much much better.

for example, my atto3 already lost 11% of battery Health, after only 3 years! so my battery now is effectively a 53 kWh battery and will go down to 48-50kWh in 2-3 more years.

if you start at 75kWh, in 10 years you might be at 66kWh, which is still okayish...

Right now the Atto3 is at the service center since this morning, and it will take 2-3 days maybe:

• First, the front wheel and suspension need alignment, the car keeps going to the right if I don't hold the steering wheel, driving more than 100km/h is a NO GO for this car right now. it's not good, not sure how this happened.

• Second, the car still cannot Fast charge as it should. Fast charging is limited to 30-45kW only, but should be 80-84kW. The battery still overheats very quickly. This time, in the new Service center, the manager is very nice, he really understood my problem and agree to do a deep analysis. the other 3 times, it was done at this small center near me that nobody had a clue except this one same engineer that couldn't give me much. btw, I never saw again 88kW on this car since last bangkok trip that kill it, maximum when lucky if totally cold would be 82kW, most of the time 30-45 kW

• And finally, they will update the OS of the car, since I have been stuck on the factory OS from 2022.

Great info! I camp quite often and was thinking the ATTO would be better than the seal. The loss of battery health seems extremely excessive! I researched online and owners never expressed battery health as an issue. That Blade tech was always a marketing gimmick but I expected the battery to hold up as well as other LFP batteries.

Other than fixing the current issues, what other problems have you had? I'm a little bummed - it seemed like a good fit. MG is less expensive but the extended range use NMC batteries and I'm not interested.

3 minutes ago, atpeace said:

Other than fixing the current issues, what other problems have you had? I'm a little bummed - it seemed like a good fit. MG is less expensive but the extended range use NMC batteries and I'm not interested.

The other issue with the Atto3 I have:
- space: it is not great for me, i have long legs and it's the front chairs give me back pain, I have large back. Back seats are good to be honest.

- The range is great when you drive under 95km/h, and it's it is really bad at 115-120+
- I had a few issues here and there, but it was handled fine, my atto3 is china built, latest thai build are of better quality and probably better cooling. My atto3 cooling system looks different from the Thai version.

Wife bought it, as she needed an EV that time, also not many choices 3-4 years ago.

Newer NMC are not bad, according to most AI I have asked.

like the 100kWh NMC on the MG IM5, is a "Single Cathode" NMC battery made by CATL, very latest tech, that does not degrade as fast as the older NMC, such as the one in the Tesla Long Range models. it will degrade, but very slowly if I keep under 80% most of the time. Also this battery allows the IM5 to be charged at 396kW at 800V. it's quite amazing, to go to a Shell 180kW and top that battery at 180kw all the way to 85%, so quickly, it's awesome!

So, NMC batteries tech is pretty good now on the high end cars, while LFP is more budget friendly. BYD Blade 2.0 is LFP, but not in Thailand.

You will see many high spec 800V Cars with NMC batteries.

NMC requires you to religiously keep it under 80-90%, and only go to 100% when you need for a long trip of once every few months.

If you are ok with this, NMC is a good option, if not, stick with LFP, it's just simpler and easier with the technical limitations.

Edited August 3Aug 3 by brfsa2

31 minutes ago, atpeace said:

I camp quite often

since you camp often, V2L is going to be important for you, pretty sure you know, if you dont,. it' Vehicle to Load, allowing you to use the car as 220V source for appliances like a water boiler, coffee machine, microwave, TV, etc.

you want a car that can go whole night with V2L, at least 2.2kW, 3.3-6.6kW is better.

The Atto3 has V2L for 2200 Watt, and it will stop when battery reach 15%.

it's ok as long as you dont go over 1800Watt.

for example,. the atto3 with 60kWh battery, you reach your camping site with 50% battery, now you have only 35% available to V2L, which is 20kWh, that allow you to use 1kW for 20 hours or 2-3 nights...

Edited August 3Aug 3 by brfsa2

17 minutes ago, brfsa2 said:

The other issue with the Atto3 I have:
- space: it is not great for me, i have long legs and it's the front chairs give me back pain, I have large back. Back seats are good to be honest.

- The range is great when you drive under 95km/h, and it's it is really bad at 115-120+
- I had a few issues here and there, but it was handled fine, my atto3 is china built, latest thai build are of better quality and probably better cooling. My atto3 cooling system looks different from the Thai version.

Wife bought it, as she needed an EV that time, also not many choices 3-4 years ago.

Newer NMC are not bad, according to most AI I have asked.

like the 100kWh NMC on the MG IM5, is a "Single Cathode" NMC battery made by CATL, very latest tech, that does not degrade as fast as the older NMC, such as the one in the Tesla Long Range models. it will degrade, but very slowly if I keep under 80% most of the time. Also this battery allows the IM5 to be charged at 396kW at 800V. it's quite amazing, to go to a Shell 180kW and top that battery at 180kw all the way to 85%, so quickly, it's awesome!

So, NMC batteries tech is pretty good now on the high end cars, while LFP is more budget friendly. BYD Blade 2.0 is LFP, but not in Thailand.

You will see many high spec 800V Cars with NMC batteries.

NMC requires you to religiously keep it under 80-90%, and only go to 100% when you need for a long trip of once every few months.

If you are ok with this, NMC is a good option, if not, stick with LFP, it's just simpler and easier with the technical limitations.

Thanks for taking the time to post this and good info. I prefer to not micromanage the battery and charge to 100% at home. I also have LFP batteries powering the house and have been messing with them for 7 years so I have my biases :) I'm not tall or big (179cm-73 kilos) so the front seat should be fine.

15 hours ago, brfsa2 said:

very nice work, amazing what Claude can do now a days.

60% of the 15k connectors are DC, 40% are AC, but better than nothing eh?

Most are concentrated in Bangkok, and in the south it is an issue with fast DC chargers. some are broken, most are 120kW and the queue can be long, you have to book, then we get idiots with their selfish behavior that makes sharing public chargers not so smooth.

The leg between bangkok and hua hin, shouldn't be an issue, Hua hin has some really large charging stations with many ports and 180-360kW, so does bangkok.

The only problem are those cars that can reach 220km range. my atto 3 is 220km range on highway now :D

I don’t agree on difficulties charging.

We recently completed a 4,000km road trip starting in Chiang Rai and down to Khao Lak and back.

We never experienced any broken chargers, the vast majority of PTT’s have chargers on the main roads and we never had to wait, mostly they were vacant on both ports. There was one occupied and we didn’t stop but went on to the next one.

We never booked and it convinced me the charging network is excellent and needs no planning when undertaking a long trip.

2 hours ago, JBChiangRai said:

I don’t agree on difficulties charging.

We recently completed a 4,000km road trip starting in Chiang Rai and down to Khao Lak and back.

We never experienced any broken chargers, the vast majority of PTT’s have chargers on the main roads and we never had to wait, mostly they were vacant on both ports. There was one occupied and we didn’t stop but went on to the next one.

We never booked and it convinced me the charging network is excellent and needs no planning when undertaking a long trip.

where I live, 2 out 6 heads (ptt) near me are broken for months. there is one station super near me that I wish they had it fixed, but PTT seems to have forgotten that one. such a pity.

If I need to charge any morning or lunch time, must book, always busy most mornings and afternoons.

The Shell 180kW with 2 guns, had only 1 was functioning and it's been fixed, took them some months.

You did a single trip to south, so your experience does not reflect the same as someone who actually lives here in the south and need to charge every day.

15 hours ago, atpeace said:

Thanks for taking the time to post this and good info. I prefer to not micromanage the battery and charge to 100% at home. I also have LFP batteries powering the house and have been messing with them for 7 years so I have my biases :) I'm not tall or big (179cm-73 kilos) so the front seat should be fine.

No worry, happy to share and help others make informed decisions.

Bro, at your 179cm, definitely sit and test drive the Atto3!

between me and my wife driving it, if she drove last, I cant even get it on the atto3 before adjusting the seat all the way to the back, that's how tight it is.

I've seen the latest Atto3 minor change made in Thailand, and it looks good, it's probably a great car now after ironing out all the minor issues like mine had. Chinese do improve QA at the factory when they find issues.

But... the newest released Atto3 in china is so much better, if you get the Atto3 today and in December the new one comes (which I dont believe will come) not sure how you gonna feel about that, because the difference is not small (motor, battery, car size, charging).

Now a days there so many options to choose from, even Cherry seems to be gaining huge traction in here and in China too.

2 hours ago, brfsa2 said:

No worry, happy to share and help others make informed decisions.

Bro, at your 179cm, definitely sit and test drive the Atto3!

between me and my wife driving it, if she drove last, I cant even get it on the atto3 before adjusting the seat all the way to the back, that's how tight it is.

I've seen the latest Atto3 minor change made in Thailand, and it looks good, it's probably a great car now after ironing out all the minor issues like mine had. Chinese do improve QA at the factory when they find issues.

But... the newest released Atto3 in china is so much better, if you get the Atto3 today and in December the new one comes (which I dont believe will come) not sure how you gonna feel about that, because the difference is not small (motor, battery, car size, charging).

Now a days there so many options to choose from, even Cherry seems to be gaining huge traction in here and in China too.

You got me thinking. I think a "used" Seal as bridge car would be a good fit. You mentioned your range isn't great and the Seal would fix that issue. I can probably pick up the premium version (82 kWh) with only RWD for around 640k with 40-60k on the odometer. It would fit my range needs perfectly and the RWD gets better range than the AWD. Ultimately I want to buy a an EV truck and my retirement accounts will be available (IRA- American) and social security if I choose around 2030. I would be in a better liquidity situation to splurge and get a nice EV truck.

I was at a running event last year and someone was camping with their Seal and sleeping in it. I don't need much to be comfortable and it was an OK setup. If it wasn't for the terrible range, I probably would just keep driving my Neta V which has been a great car on my trips.

2 hours ago, atpeace said:

You got me thinking. I think a "used" Seal as bridge car would be a good fit. You mentioned your range isn't great and the Seal would fix that issue. I can probably pick up the premium version (82 kWh) with only RWD for around 640k with 40-60k on the odometer. It would fit my range needs perfectly and the RWD gets better range than the AWD. Ultimately I want to buy a an EV truck and my retirement accounts will be available (IRA- American) and social security if I choose around 2030. I would be in a better liquidity situation to splurge and get a nice EV truck.

I was at a running event last year and someone was camping with their Seal and sleeping in it. I don't need much to be comfortable and it was an OK setup. If it wasn't for the terrible range, I probably would just keep driving my Neta V which has been a great car on my trips.

Be sure to consider warranty provisions in the buying decision. That used Seal would only come with its "basic" 8 yr/160,000km warranty even if the person who owned it had a "lifetime" warranty as a BYD "lifetime" warranty can only be transferred to a legal spouse/children. And hopefully the required Km/periodic warranty checkups for the basic warranty were complied with otherwise the basic warranty might be impacted.

A lifetime warranty is definitely nice to have if you plan to keep the EV past its basic warranty period, want to pass it along with a warranty to one of your children, etc. Each person will be different as to how important a lifetime warranty is.....some folks only keep cars for a few years....others keep cars for many years.

Peeked at the GAC Aion UT at the mall today. Very nice at that price point, starting @ ฿519k.

Then there is the MG Urban now @ ฿549k, and come with a better LifeTime warranty. Two nice options, and pretty hard to beat if budget challenged, or not even. I still need SUV, even if just silly B class 🙄

Edited August 4Aug 4 by KhunLA

2 hours ago, KhunLA said:

Peeked at the GAC Aion UT at the mall today. Very nice at that price point, starting @ ฿519k.

Then there is the MG Urban now @ ฿549k, and come with a better LifeTime warranty. Two nice options, and pretty hard to beat if budget challenged, or not even. I still need SUV, even if just silly B class 🙄

There is also the Dolphin which is a pretty nice deal, my young in-law got the basic dolphin at 459,000 baht last December motorshow. I drove it and it's fine, agile and firm.

On 8/4/2026 at 2:51 PM, atpeace said:

You got me thinking. I think a "used" Seal as bridge car would be a good fit. You mentioned your range isn't great and the Seal would fix that issue. I can probably pick up the premium version (82 kWh) with only RWD for around 640k with 40-60k on the odometer. It would fit my range needs perfectly and the RWD gets better range than the AWD. Ultimately I want to buy a an EV truck and my retirement accounts will be available (IRA- American) and social security if I choose around 2030. I would be in a better liquidity situation to splurge and get a nice EV truck.

I was at a running event last year and someone was camping with their Seal and sleeping in it. I don't need much to be comfortable and it was an OK setup. If it wasn't for the terrible range, I probably would just keep driving my Neta V which has been a great car on my trips.

I used to camp often before we had the kids, wife is not so eager for camping lately 😭

we used to do on the honda CB500, then later on the HRV.

I asked Gemini what are the best EV cars for camping in Thailand, and it start with some high end cars, and I asked about under 1MB and then about the Cherry V23.

Gemini Summary of What to Pick Under 1M Baht:

• Choose the Chery V23 if you plan to tackle rougher, unpaved national park trails or love the blocky, retro aesthetic.

• Choose the BYD Atto 3 if you prefer a traditional crossover look with a widely established dealer and service network across Thailand.

1 minute ago, brfsa2 said:

There is also the Dolphin which is a pretty nice deal, my young in-law got the basic dolphin at 459,000 baht last December motorshow. I drove it and it's fine, agile and firm.

I used to camp often before we had the kids, wife is not so eager for camping lately 😭

we used to do on the honda CB500, then later on the HRV.

I asked Gemini what are the best EV cars for camping in Thailand, and it start with some high end cars, and I asked about under 1MB and then about the Cherry V23.

Gemini Summary of What to Pick Under 1M Baht:

• Choose the Chery V23 if you plan to tackle rougher, unpaved national park trails or love the blocky, retro aesthetic.

• Choose the BYD Atto 3 if you prefer a traditional crossover look with a widely established dealer and service network across Thailand.

I tested out 'camping IN' our MG ZS. Nah, maybe if we didn't bring half the house with us, but enough room to sleep in, but not much else, and we had a dog with us.

Almost bought that add tent thingy a couple times 😂 Of course if into camping, a roof rack would handle that extra cargo we drag with us.

Guesthouses are so inexpensive, along with it's nice, waking up, in the middle of night, rolling out of bed to pee, without a flashlight and worry about crossing paths with a snake.

If I was going the camping route, would have to be the, very nice, Riddara RD6, and strangely, just opened a dealer locally. Outlets at the cargo bed put out 6+kW.

Waiting for Geely to extend a lifetime warranty to their truck line, then yea, I'll get one. Had one on display at Makro yesterday ...

Edited August 6Aug 6 by KhunLA

7 minutes ago, KhunLA said:

I tested out 'camping IN' our MG ZS. Nah, maybe if we didn't bring half the house with us, but enough room to sleep in, but not much else, and we had a dog with us.

Almost bought that add tent thingy a couple times 😂 Of course if into camping, a roof rack would handle that extra cargo we drag with us.

Guesthouses are so inexpensive, along with it's nice, waking up, in the middle of night, rolling out of bed to pee, without a flashlight and worry about crossing paths with a snake.

If I was going the camping route, would have to be the, very nice, Riddara RD6, and strangely, just opened a dealer locally. Outlets at the cargo bed put out 6+kW.

Waiting for Geely to extend a lifetime warranty to their truck line, then yea, I'll get one. Had one on display at Makro yesterday ...

I personally think the riddara is probably the best you can get for dual use, camping, city, etc.

I didnt recommend dont know why... at 740K it is a total bargain, even the higher trims at 900k+ are really nice.

now back to Gemini in the riddara:

• `

7 minutes ago, brfsa2 said:

I personally think the riddara is probably the best you can get for dual use, camping, city, etc.

I didnt recommend dont know why... at 740K it is a total bargain, even the higher trims at 900k+ are really nice.

now back to Gemini in the riddara:

• `

AI measured with tailgat open, bed is only 152cm, and what turned my off from it, as I'm 175cm. Although there are already a few dedication camper rigs for the RD6 with raised sleeping area.

For me, it would be hard to spend the extra 160k for a few bells & whistles, especially since not really needing the extra range. Saying that, it is only 2 months of income more, BUT, would more likely be more of an O&A vehicle. So again, hard to justify, them damn GH are so cheap.

Edited August 6Aug 6 by KhunLA

See weblink for a bunch of stats/charts/etc., regarding BEV registrations for July 2026 and 2026 so far.

https://autolifethailand.tv/ev-bev-register-thailand-july-2026/

17 hours ago, Pib said:

See weblink for a bunch of stats/charts/etc., regarding BEV registrations for July 2026 and 2026 so far.

Full EVs at 36.6% of the total vehicle registrations in Thailand. Just for comparison, the figure in the US this year is 6%.

Today dropped by BYD to check what is going on with the car. since they didnt call me to update, it's been 2 weeks with BYD.

When I get there, guess what they said. "we just finished this morning was going to call you" :)

So, they didnt do anything with the battery, just told to come back again if overheating battery happens again. OMG, so much rage with BYD. I didnt want to take the car, all they did was discharge it to 10% and hand it to me. WTF is wrong with BYD?

got home at 0%, while the IM5 used 5% of the battery driving normal speeds.

At least I got this whole new fancy OS, that looks completely different from what I had before, and all sounds and bells have a new sound. LOL.

Other than that, well, what do I do with this POS...? if sell, it will be for peanuts...

@brfsa2

Have you tried a DC Fast Charge to see what charge rate you get since getting the Atto back? Your post above implies you just drove it home without charging.

Edited August 13Aug 13 by Pib

On 8/13/2026 at 5:09 PM, Pib said:

@brfsa2

Have you tried a DC Fast Charge to see what charge rate you get since getting the Atto back? Your post above implies you just drove it home without charging.

I'll try soon dc fast charge.

For the BYD Atto3 owner: the new Firmware OS is indeed really good. Most importantly it changed how regen works, instead of the old rough regen the new algorithm is really nice and very close to what the IM5 is.

After all it ain't so much POS after all. I've been driving it lately, efficiency is still bad, I did my morning 120km commute and that used 22kwh (45%.)

( im5 takes 20-22% on the same route)

wife paid 1.2MB for it, she feels really bad about selling it for 1/4 of the price, and want to keep as backup, which makes total sense right?

But damn this car cabin is noisy! We got used to whisper quiet im5, so coming back to atto3 is like getting into a tornado lol.

54 minutes ago, brfsa2 said:

.....I did my morning 120km commute and that used 22kwh (45%.)

( im5 takes 20-22% on the same route)

Yea, but your IM5 battery (100KW) is almost twice as large as the Atto 3 Extended (60.5KW) battery so the SOC percentage used by the IM5 would be in half of what the Atto uses ballpark.

IM5 Update: hitting 5,000Km on the odo, and a day trip to Songkhla. The 480KM used 70% 80% of the IM5 battery, left home at 95%, arrived 15%. Mostly under 115km/h. efficiency is certainly very good on this car.

Yala and Songkhla roads are really not good, way too many scary potholes, Pathalung and NST roads are so much better, they got much money to fix hehe...

Next time it will be on the Fotuner for sure. it was nervous driving the sporty IM5.

Yala and Songkhla roads are so empty, specially small roads. you just drive and drive and hardly see few cars and trucks. just nature and many mountains, there is so much to explore.

Talking about good range, this facebook post comparing the MG4 (62.2kwh) vs the MG Urban (52.9kWh), the Urban is really efficient, the smaller battery had about the same range or better than MG4.

https://www.facebook.com/clubcharge/posts/pfbid02TPR2BrpT2HCYq954UtwJva4WWa4qU3yEoqZErffX1S4zP6kikCapbbX9JtTLBkRFl

- Urban: 139 km, 65% remaining.

The average speed 86 km/h. 13.7 kWh/100 km

- MG4: 141 km, 63% remaining.

The average speed 85 km/h. 16.5 kWh/100 km

Edited August 15Aug 15 by brfsa2

8 minutes ago, brfsa2 said:

The 480KM used 70% of the IM5 battery, left home at 95%, arrived 15%.

Thats 80%.

2 minutes ago, Andrew Dwyer said:

Thats 80%.

yes, thanks, no idea why I put 70% 🤦‍♂️

I corrected the post

Edited August 15Aug 15 by brfsa2

20 minutes ago, brfsa2 said:

IM5 Update: hitting 5,000Km on the odo, and a day trip to Songkhla. The 480KM used 70% 80% of the IM5 battery, left home at 95%, arrived 15%. Mostly under 115km/h. efficiency is certainly very good on this car.

Do you ever slow down "to stop and smell the flowers" so to say. 😉 😊 😇

Hey, I just went over 74,000Km in my Atto 3 with 60.5KWH battery...had it for 2 years 10 months. Over the last few days I did a real world range test by driving the car down from 100% to 11% SOC (i.e., used 89%) over a couple of days, taking a trip odometer reading, and then extrapolating that to 100%. I didn't run the battery down further as we were on a site seeing trip and a DC Fast Charger became handy...and we did need to top-up a little in order to finish the trip/get back home.

This range test was done in "Normal" driving mode, A/C set to 23C, driving in the western Bangkok (suburban type driving) and connecting provinces area, regen set to Standard, and rarely went above 90kmh as the traffic and speed limits didn't permit...but on the open highways I did do 90kmh when there were no flowers to smell. Most of the driving was done in the 70 to 90Kmh ballpark since it included driving thru rural towns/villages and on curvy rural highways....the wife and I just driving along....site seeing....not trying to get to a point as fast as possible.

Anyway, this real world range test resulted in a range of 430.4Km. That exceeds the Atto 3 WLTP range rating of 420Km so my battery must still be doing well capacity-wise.

Now if had just used the trip meter kilometers reading added to what the range remaining guess-o-meter estimated the range test results would have been 435Km but the range guess-o-meter is always too optimistic. In real world range tests I prefer to expend "at least 80%" and then extrapolate to 100% as that method assumes the 20% (or whatever amount remaining) gets the same credit/treatment per kilometer as the first 80% per kilometer. I think it's more accurate that way when you can't/don't want to run the SOC down real close to 0% especially when you are out site seeing/smelling the flowers and can't count on a DC charger being available on a low, low state of charge.

Edited August 15Aug 15 by Pib

13 hours ago, Pib said:

Do you ever slow down "to stop and smell the flowers" so to say. 😉 😊 😇

I'm not a flower person but I do stop at the waterfalls and rivers to bath 😁

Your Atto3 battery seems to be in very good shape, and going 90kmh is the sweet spot for range. I would guess you didn't DC Fast charge often right? Is your Thai made atto3?

What destroyed my battery was the heat afte the cooling system failed to cool down and letting battery seriously overheating.

Isn't bragging about your expensive new car just another way to say look at all this money I am flushing down the drain not buying a used Toyota or Honda that's had oil changes every 6 months, i.e. you bought it from a Farang who is really rich, not just trying to pretend he is 👈

3 hours ago, SiSePuede419 said:

Isn't bragging about your expensive new car just another way to say look at all this money I am flushing down the drain not buying a used Toyota or Honda that's had oil changes every 6 months, i.e. you bought it from a Farang who is really rich, not just trying to pretend he is 👈

You've really gotta thing about EV drivers....have you ever tried to change hands and gain a stroke?

2 hours ago, brfsa2 said:

I'm not a flower person but I do stop at the waterfalls and rivers to bath 😁

Your Atto3 battery seems to be in very good shape, and going 90kmh is the sweet spot for range. I would guess you didn't DC Fast charge often right? Is your Thai made atto3?

What destroyed my battery was the heat afte the cooling system failed to cool down and letting battery seriously overheating.

Regarding DC charging, No, I rarely need to DC Fast Charge on trips as my site seeing/smell the flowers trips are typically 200 to 425Km roundtrip. By leaving home with 100% SOC and keeping the speed at/below 90Kmh the approx 400Km range of my Atto 3 negates the need to charge while on most trips. And on those trips that going to be around 400Km to play it safe I will DC fast charge but only top-up by adding around 25%.

Now there was a period during my 2 year 10 month ownership that I totally relied on DC Fast Charging for 5 months "straight." From Aug-Dec 2024 when BYD/Rever provided free DC Fast Charging to certain BYD owners under the ReverSharger charging network I DC fast charged 83 times. Other than plugging into my home 7KW wall charger for literally 30 seconds every few weeks just to ensure my wall charger still worked I totally relied on the free DC charging during the Aug-Dec 2024 period. From looking at notes I kept during those 83 free DC charging sessions, on the "average" I added 19KWH during each charging session.

With my Atto's 60.5KWH battery 19KWH represents approximately a 31% charge...like charging up from 69% to 100%, 50% to 81%, etc. Once again that 19KWH per session was an "average".....quite a few times I only added a few KWH as a ReverSharger DC charger was available as I drove back home from a daily errand like a groceries run to Lotus. So, on the average these 83 DC charging sessions were brief and many times starting at a point on the Atto's charging curve (above 65% SOC) where the max charging rate allowed was approx 57KW (i.e., 65 to 85% SOC) or 32KW (i.e., 85 to 100% SOC) per the Atto BMS charging curve. Probably only around 30 of the 83 times was my SOC low enough (i.e., "below" 65% SOC) when beginning a charging session that I would charge in the 80-88KW ballpark for a while which is the Atto's max charge rate allowed by its BMS charge curve. Yea, I was just topping-up whenever I could regardless of SOC since the ReverScharger DC chargers were super busy during that Aug-Dec 2024 timeframe from many people trying to get free electrons.

Other than that Aug-Dec 2024 I rarely DC charge other than on a few trips and/or very brief DC charging sessions just to ensure I could still use or checkout a particular charging network (i.e., PTT, Spark, PEA, etc). Summary: I've had little need to DC charging based on my driving needs and range of my Atto. And my Sealion 7 with even greater range makes DC charging even less needed.

Regarding whether my Atto 3 was made in China or Thailand, it was made in China just like your Atto 3 .

And to close out with battery SOH, I don't think your Atto's SOH is bad....I think it's OK-fine just like my Atto's battery SOH is OK-fine. From scanning back through some of your posts I found your 2 Jul 2026 post with a CarScanner snapshot showing your Atto's SOH at 91.68%. That's almost identical to my Atto's battery current 92% SOH "according to CarScanner's method of" guesstimating" SOH...and it is a guess. As of 15 Aug 2026 my Atto's battery's SOH is 92.0% according to CarScanner, but I figure based on the battery's original and current OBD2 data "Amp Hour capacity" that it's actually more like 95.9% after 73,000Km and almost 3 years of driving....that works out to around a 1.4% loss per year so far.

I expect your Atto's SOH is actually around 95% also when comparing the batteries "factory fresh" Amp Hour Capacity rating and its "current" Amp Hour capacity per OBD2 CarScanner data. While CarScanner uses Amp Hour info to guesstimate SOH it does "not" use the OBD2 data actual "factory fresh BMS Amp Hour Capacity reading of the battery pack" but instead uses the Amp Hour rating of the blade batteries before constructed/installed to build a "pack" of many batteries connected in series....specifically, 126 blade batteries in the case of the Atto 3 Extended Range 60.48KW battery pack contained within your and my Atto 3's.

I think the "real world" range difference we are seeing between your and my Atto's is "driving style/speed" (i.e., my frequent 90kmh driving compared to your frequent 110-120Kmh driving) as driving at 120Kmh vs 90Kmh causes our Atto's power usage to go from around 13KW to 23KW while driving along....a BIG jump....depletes a battery SOC a lot faster. And also tires since you swapped-our the original/factory tires for "wider" tires which probably cuts range probably around 3-5% due to rolling resistance although improving road grip. But the driving speed and a lot of your driving being on fast moving highways where little regen power comes into play compared to my driving on slower rural roads/Bangkok area roads where a good amount of stopping, slowing down allowing regen to feed power back the battery is also a key play in range. Cheers.

Studies on millionaire habits show that everyday rich people actually prefer practical brands like Toyota, while the ultra-rich and celebrities buy ultra-luxury and exotic cars

And SL7s. That sounds exotic. 🤗

8 hours ago, SiSePuede419 said:

Isn't bragging about your expensive new car just another way to say look at all this money I am flushing down the drain not buying a used Toyota or Honda that's had oil changes every 6 months, i.e. you bought it from a Farang who is really rich, not just trying to pretend he is 👈

There's a thread for EV bashing, link below. Why would I buy a 2nd hand underperforming vehicle.

I guess we simply enjoy driving better performing cars while saving money from petrol and constant maintenance.

https://aseannow.com/topic/1246109-ice-vs-ev-the-debate-thread/