Fast Car For Inder 600k

[LivinLOS]

I had a 95 E36 M3 in the states, and gave it up to come to Thailand....

One of life's greatest regrets.

I would be very interested in working with someone that could build up an E36 that could perform the same as the E36 M3 and no, a simple badge will not do. This is a serious post. I would de-badge the car and not be a "poser." But I would like a clean E36 again, that climbs throught the rpm's and pulls & pulls like there is a bottomless pit of reserve power....

Ahhh that was a sweet car.

So if anyone can help, let me know.

A truly great little car.. So tight and easy to slide in a controlled fashion..

My little brother had one.. I had a 850CSi !! A mate we worked with had an M5.. All doing massive miles all around Europe and they ran hard non stop.. Other 'fast' cars just were constant service problems. I often put in 5k kms a week !!

[philipm]

INTJ, hey mate, as for the 1uz, i have actually seen several in thailand, esspecially in the 5 and 7 series bmw.

but yes i agree that it is not the most common of swaps but it is an alternative. you should check out bangna trat area they sell alot of those engines and do swaps to. you can even check out buwanette service, they do alot of v8 swaps, 2jz 1jz swaps.

as for the power rating, they actually are all 320hp motors. they are all listed as 280, due to japanese regualtions. even the skyline gtr rb26dett engine, do you really think it produces 280hp. its a 2.6L 6clinder, twin turbo (that run simatanously) that out circuits 430's and so forth. you can check out about the true power these stock motor develope.

as for monza speed, wow i had no idea about that. shit i meet that guy, even his dad who apparently drives a mini couper s in england....but anyways ***** nearly killing a guy thats just to much, and the nerve to drive away. ! some really screwed up people in this world.

as for the 2jz, and 1jz, yes it is possible to find them cheap. but the question is, imagen how over driven it has been, thrashed and what not, would be the most likely option for all cheapppppppp swaps, but if you spend that extra cash you will be getting a much better motor, condition wise...and so forth. but yes 25,000 is an easy payment for speed, but i wouldnt say you wont have any problems with it.

as for the the reliability, toyota jz series is the largest platform in the (import market) to modify on, for huge power and easy reliability. stated that with stock internals can handel around 600whp....thats just turbo, intercoller, fuel like etc mods...but nothing inside the engine block. their are many articals on how reliabily these engines are, being built or in stock form.

the jz series are renouned for relibaility, while producing strong preformance. if you decided to throw it in your truck, i am rather sure that if you have the 4x4 mode will be useless (but i am not sure on this part). but many truck owners only concider the jz series for swaps......

[philipm]

oh yes....as for the 1jz gte, vs the vvti. actually INTJ you are correct. the vvti engines are new, and unless you have an experinced tuner can u get the most hp and potential out of it. the gte is a very common swap, actually more so then the vvti, but looking at gte swap, they are intentially moded, whilest a vvti being newer devolpe holds better relibility. plus if your not looking for massive power pay that extra to keep it stock with simplistic bolt ons, with better reliability....is one u can prop for.

the gte is wonderful, cheap, powerful, reliabile......but older.

(just personal prefrence-with my civic i had to import the engine through the docks from japan, due to the fact i found the last year of making the b16a engines sir2, year 2000 motor in my 1994 body)-relibility is a major factor with me. yes some might call me crazy but i payed in total 100,000 on my motor, but ill tell you what. not matter how hard, how high the revs you push it...it never skips a beat!!!!

i could of proped for the sir 1 b16a engines for about 20-40,000 aged from anywhere 1992-1995, about 14 year old engine.....(im guessing you got my point-intsead of 14 year old engine, i would prop for an 8year old engine-not to menation i bought my car 3 years ago....so it would actually be either 4year old engine, or a 10 year old engine)

but hey thats just me.....

[hakku]

I'd just get myself a 95 or 96 subaru wrx and built up over time additional hp. Fast as it is already, easy to modify, plenty good shops to do that.

My 2c

[Plus]

as for the the reliability, toyota jz series is the largest platform in the (import market) to modify on, for huge power and easy reliability. stated that with stock internals can handel around 600whp....thats just turbo, intercoller, fuel like etc mods...but nothing inside the engine block. their are many articals on how reliabily these engines are, being built or in stock form.

the jz series are renouned for relibaility, while producing strong preformance. if you decided to throw it in your truck, i am rather sure that if you have the 4x4 mode will be useless (but i am not sure on this part). but many truck owners only concider the jz series for swaps......

Thanks, I have a 2wd Sportrider, rear wheel drive, so JZs should be ok, while 4l+ UZs might be too big, but, as designed to moving large Landcruisers, they are probably better option overall.

Reliability probably means something different to racing enthusiasts and daily commuters like me. I need an engine that would run and run and run, day in and day out, with minimum attention.

Can someone just give the lowdown - what's the probability of JZ engine to start and run every morning, in all weather conditions (Thailand weather, of course). With diesel it's 100%. What would be the estimate for JZ?

I'm greatly attached to my d4d diesel - if only it had more power to match Fortuners and could run on LPG....

[matter]

I had a 95 E36 M3 in the states, and gave it up to come to Thailand....

One of life's greatest regrets.

I would be very interested in working with someone that could build up an E36 that could perform the same as the E36 M3 and no, a simple badge will not do. This is a serious post. I would de-badge the car and not be a "poser." But I would like a clean E36 again, that climbs throught the rpm's and pulls & pulls like there is a bottomless pit of reserve power....

Ahhh that was a sweet car.

So if anyone can help, let me know.

We are just completing an E46 project with engine upgrade to a 4litre V8. PM me for details.

[matter]

PhilipM

Monza speed (Lad Phrao 101) with its weasel like Chinese boss is a rip off and the guy with the black BMW is a huge cash cow for them. Amongst the catalogue of disasters he has suffered at the hands of Monza a few years ago he bought two greddy T88 turbos at a cost of 120,000 baht and due to the ineptitude of the monkeys that fitted them they were both blown in a week, yet he was offered no compensation and continues using the place. That was shortly before he nearly killed a motorcyclist whilst driving at 340km/h and fleeing the scene whilst in a "questionable" state of sobriety, leaving the guy for dead in the road. He always bands around these big horsepower figures, but when I knew him the car had never been near a dyno. Mactec tuning is another one to avoid.

You say that a common conversion Thais use in their BMWs is the 1UZ (V8), I would disagree as I have only ever seen a couple of 1UZ conversions in old American cars and old Jaguars, but never seen one in a BMW.

Likewise I would disagree about the 1JZ-VVTi being a common swap, the VVTi is a single turbo producing 280 BHP (not 320), this engine has around 8 different ECU's and very limited tuning potential. By far and away the best value and ubiquitous swap here is the 1JZ-GTE twin turbo, 280 BHP and you can buy engine and box for as little as 25,000 baht. With a bigger turbo and bigger intercooler it can easily make 500BHP on stock internals.

Cheers

INTJ is right. be very careful who you consult and use. In Thailand there seems to be a serious lack of knowledge when it comes to providng the customer with the correct parts for their requirements and maiking sure those parts are then compatible and used properly.

[philipm]

Plus, you should just check on google for articals on 2jz gte. you should find alot of info on them....

you should pick up an issue of race truck they go for around 60bhat. alot of the swaps are jz series, and alot of moded desiels....turbo kits etc. pushing 300whp and more....( i am looking for something like that, i still want to retain the diesel, and the 4x4 offroading option...so modifying your stock engine is also a good alternative if you want power and hefty torque). remember dont just mod your engine, without brakes, axels, clutch, cooling, fuel, ecu tunning....(everything must be in a package)

[INTJ]

Plus,

If I was going to do a swap in a 2WD Sportrider without a shadow of a doubt I would go the 1UZ (V8) route, and convert it to LPG. Abundance of info on lextreme.com. The 1UZ was not from the landcruiser, but the Toyota Crown, Lexus LS400 (Toyota Celsior), and the Japanese Toyota Ambulance !

Much better suited to your vehicle than a turbocharged engine IMO, and the normally aspirated 1JZ/2JZ wouldn't be as powerful as you think with the weight of the sportrider.

Turbocharging brings cooling issues, especially in this climate, also the matter of fitting the intercooler. Also the turbo engines tend to have had a much harder previous life.

I have a Mercedes with a 2JZ (3000cc non turbo) and wish I'd gone the V8 route, although its not underpowered as such, you do have to rev the engine quite hard especially running on gas.

Cheers.

[Plus]

Plus, you should just check on google for articals on 2jz gte

I know, there are thousands of them, but most go straight over my head.

lextreme.com is the same - there are ninety eight pages of topics about V8 engines, I don't know where to start.

What I want is more or less the same conversion they use for minivans - Toyota Commuter and Venturi, I believe. I saw one today with CNG stickers, and there are lots of them on Don Muang tollway. That's the kind of reliability I want - minivans can't afford to stay in the garage every two weeks, they need to run day in and day out for hundreds of kilometers.

From looking at thai search results, Sportrider+LPG usually cited along with either 1JZ or 2JZ, but I can't find any specific garage recommendation.

[Skyline]

I'm a Honda lover,but for 600k I'd go for the Subaru!

Philipm...Nice B16 in your Civic,I was looking at the B18C at Chaeng Khong over the weekend,nice engine but 100k+

Im running a JDM D15B with modded ECU,intake and pipe and was seriously looking into a turbo for it,but its gonna have to wait a while as my suspension needs replacing.

An AE86 would be nice to have.I saw 1 for sale on SriNakarin a few years ago for 160k with no papers and one for sale in Nawamin for 600k which was immaculate and done in panda colours.Only know of 2-3 in Thailand though.

Good luck!

[philipm]

hey yea, subarus and evos are all great, but they are just a bit to comman.

i would prefer a stripped out eg, with a t3/t4 turbo...

as for the 1jz or 2jz, DO not go for NA...as thes engines will actually consume alot more fuel, draging a heavy truck. go for the turbo series, you wont regreat it. and they are very reliable engine.

as for cooling issues, well all trucks have turbos, and adding an intercooler will just add to the relibaility, not to menation...i also would advice an oil cooler to, and a strong built raditor, with high pressure caps.

btw i just picked up the issue of racetruck, you should seriously concider buying these mags, as well as offroading and 4x4 special. you will find alot of info, packages, locations, information and prices generally( not to menation examples of basicly what you would want to do to your truck).

the 1uz v8 is a good option. if your looking for constant power, go for the v8 and you wil get conciderable torque and about 265hp which is plenty compared to our stock engines.

[INTJ]

Regarding the JZ series engine, a normally aspirated motor will always be more reliable and easier (read cheaper) to fix than a turbocharged motor. We are talking used engines with unknown histories, and by nature the turbos have had a much harder life, with much greater stresses put on components including the gearbox. Also turbo engines should use synthetic oil which is expensive, be warmed up before being driven, and left to run on after use which s a PITA. Also, it is nonsense to say that a N/A will consume more fuel than a turbo. I have used 70 liters of fuel to drive 160km in a JZ turbo driving hard.

BTW I have had lots of experience with both types of engines. For driveability the turbo wins hands down, but do expect niggles, and maybe the odd nightmare. If you're going turbo route, make sure you have a mechanic who is competent enough to install and maintain it properly.

Does anyone know the current market price of a 1UZ (V8) engine and box ?

Cheers.

[philipm]

you can always just modify your stock motor. at least you know how you have driven your truck.

that is the option i am opping for on my project. as i menationed pick up an isse of race truck.

this month has a 341hp triton with the same 2.5L that comes in the plus and so forth, bt ofcourse turbo moded, ecu etc....(thats a perfect kit for me, and with a 3.2L capacity i will be expecting a slight increase from this figure to.

torque is up over 500lb, so clutch and transmission box, lsd will have to be moded, esspecially in the auto, as like mine.

IF you are serious about driveability, keep your stock engine. but hey thats just my 2satang.....

[INTJ]

Philip,

The Mitsubishi always seemed to have the most tuning potential of all the diesels, nearly if not all the vehicles in the "Super Pick-Up" category of SuperCar Thailand were older Mitsubishi L200 Aerobodys.

However, a friend of mine has an older 4WD Hilux with the 5L (2.8 Diesel) engine. He had a big Garrett turbo fitted to the N/A motor, and has suffered a load of problems, cylinder head cracked, blown rear diff, it burns through clutches and always runs too hot.

As long as you have got a good strong platform to build on, modifying the stock motor is OK, not necessarily cheaper though.

Cheers

[initiala4]

N/A motor with forced induction always spells trouble. I cant agree more about turbo engines in which sometimes can cause more problems such as finding boost leaks.

[Plus]

you can always just modify your stock motor. at least you know how you have driven your truck.

I remember reading in this forum about modding a Vigo engine - new turbo, new intercooler - the works - and it was over a hundred thousand baht, not including suspension and breaks. Add diesel to LPG conversion - about 70k - it's way too expensive. Conversion alone cost more than installation of 2jz-gtte with twin turbos.

I have an impression that vans use 1jz, n/a engine swaps. Maybe it's because they are cheaper, but maybe to avoid dealing with turbos. 1UZ engine seems like a better choice in that regard but it seems it's not popular in Thailand at all. At least Thais know how to deal with JZ engines.

Turbo reliability is an obvious concern, but each turbo set up is different, isn't it? Every pickup has a turbo already, and it's not a problem at all - no warming up, no letting the engine run idly to cool off. I hope "native" JZ turbos are just as reliable while after market blowers would need some extra cooling setup.

Smaller turbos in twin turbo setup must be more reliable than one big turbo, right?

[INTJ]

The problem with the twin turbos of the 1JZ is they are ceramic and therefore not given to longevity, although because they are light they do spool up quickly giving minimal lag.

In my experience, the most reliable setup will always be stock, even if the turbos fail you can buy the stock twin turbo on the manifold ready to bolt on for 6000 baht (ish).

The problems start occurring when trying to make more power from the JZ. More power means bigger single turbo as the stock twins will disintegrate at anything over 0.9 bar of boost for more than a quick blast. Then you need a bigger intercooler to get the air into the engine. Then the duty cycle of the injectors will need to be upgraded, all the factory Air/Fuel ratios will be out, and you risk destroying your engine with detonation, so you need an aftermarket programmable ECU such as Greddy E-Manage, which needs to be set up by an *experienced, skilled* tuner, bigger exhaust, bigger wastegate etc etc. Also, the bigger the turbo the more lag, and the less driveable the car becomes

I would say that when the modified JZ is running well it is an absolute animal. With the stock twins it is quick, but with the big single at 1.5 bar of boost it is a monster. Just always seems to have a problem, and finding someone to competent to fix it in BKK is a challenge, outside BKK almost impossible.

Cheers

[philipm]

INTJ,

the new mitusbishi triton motor, do you know if it is a strong platform to chuck a bigger turbo in, the 3.2gls......

do you know how much kits are here, for around 3-400hp?

[Plus]

The problem with the twin turbos of the 1JZ is they are ceramic and therefore not given to longevity, although because they are light they do spool up quickly giving minimal lag.

In my experience, the most reliable setup will always be stock, even if the turbos fail you can buy the stock twin turbo on the manifold ready to bolt on for 6000 baht (ish).

I suppose stock twin turbos will give me enough power for my needs, I saw 363Nm/4000 rpm numbers on the Internet, and if the engine is fast to rev up and there's no turbo lag - it's perfect, I think Sportrider can handle it easily, at least until I get TRD to look at it.

But, I understand 1JZ-GTE with twin turbos has been discontinued and they offer VVTi with a single turbo instead. Does it mean that any second hand "gte" will be really old and beaten by now? On the other hand, stock turbo on modern VVTi should be even more reliable.

[INTJ]

Plus,

I think 1JZ-GTE twin turbo is the way to go. The internals of these engines are pretty much indestructible, and if your turbos /air compressor etc blow there is a plethora of cheap spares available.

The VVTi engine is almost double the cost to buy, and much more complicated, as I stated before it has something like 8 different ECU's, when you develop a misfire or the engine management error light shows it could potentially be very complicated (and expensive), once you identify the problem you then have to source the parts, double headache.

IJZ-GTE twin turbo has one ECU and you can replace it for 2500 baht.

I can't comment on the driveability of the VVTi engine as I have no experience of it, I would imagine it is "better" overall, but much less practical as I see it.

The sportrider is just begging for a V8 IMO....................

Cheers

[Plus]

Missus just found that I can convert diesel straight to LPG for 50,000.

Now she won't let me put some second hand engine instead of indestructible d4d. I need to pull the rank, put on pants, put down the foot and so on.

On Saturday I'm going to a garage to look at realistic options. I keep 1UZ in mind but references to it are very scarce on Thai side of the Net.

Is it true that 1JZ-GTE has been discontinued years ago in favour of VVTi? What age I'm looking at, realistically?

I saw pics of VVTi installed in Toyotas, though I understand the problem of complexity of a more modern engine, and it's a one turbo that needs more cooling arangements than d4d's native blower.

[INTJ]

Plus,

Check this out :-

http://www.weekendhobby.com/offroad/toyota...=2&ID=18038

Cheers

[Plus]

Great, I need some time to read it through.

[Plus]

That story is mostly about difficulties in fixing a broken part, something that I really dread - leaving a car stranded for weeks. If that happens, I need an ampule with cyanic acid to go down quickly and without pain.