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Posted

Hey guys, swadee krap....

this is my trition.....4m41

it was just a standard 4x4, untill i MODIFIED it.....

here are some part list....

TD05H-16g (subaru sti)

VR4 Intercooler

Lightbox Engine controller

2.5" stainless downpipe

stainless custom coldair intake, with stainless braided pod filter

custom Aliminum Intercooler pipeing

Sarb boost controller.....

(next GOING TO MY FRIENDS, A.K. SHOP(commonrail center) 08499-08499---he is RECOMENDED!!! by me....he is a very top mate....

to tune my lightbox engine controller, and tune, due to...removal of the catalitic converter..... smiley.gif

anyways here are some pics.....

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<A name=msg47881>

tell me what you guys think???? :o

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Posted
Hey guys, swadee krap....

this is my trition.....4m41

it was just a standard 4x4, untill i MODIFIED it.....

here are some part list....

TD05H-16g (subaru sti)

VR4 Intercooler

Lightbox Engine controller

2.5" stainless downpipe

stainless custom coldair intake, with stainless braided pod filter

custom Aliminum Intercooler pipeing

Sarb boost controller.....

(next GOING TO MY FRIENDS, A.K. SHOP(commonrail center) 08499-08499---he is RECOMENDED!!! by me....he is a very top mate....

to tune my lightbox engine controller, and tune, due to...removal of the catalitic converter..... smiley.gif

anyways here are some pics.....

modify_inline.gif

<A name=msg47881>

tell me what you guys think???? :o

Looks cool.

Does the Triton have a turbodiesel engine original or did you install the turbo as well?

How many horsepower did you add?

Posted

it was a turbo diesel engine 3.2 4m41..... from the parjero 3.2gls.....

i uprated the turbo from the subaru sti...

the hp, i havent dynoed it yet, just got it done yesterday. but hel_l its a hel_l ofalot faster, and sounds so mean.................:o

Posted

Cool set-up. Post the dyno graphs when you can.... where did you get that VR4 intercooler and how much did you get it for? (also how much for the intercooler piping + installation)?

What made you choose the Lightbox ECU. It seems many people go with Megafire, I really don't know much about either -- just wondering what made you make the decision.

Again, cool ride. You gonna do some suspension and brake mods to handle the power???

Posted

Nice set of upgrades. Brakes have to be next! I'm always a bit unconvinced by the stopping power of my Triton and I havent added any more power!!!

Did you transplant the engine, or was that the original one it came with? How old is the chassis?

Posted

its the 2007 model trition, officially it has reached a year this month.... 32,000km....

The VR4 intercooler, i should have stated that it is a home enginered vr4 style intercooler... (it is quality product, with QC etc...) it cost me 5,000bhat.

Fully Aliminum custom intercooler piping.... 6,000

not including all the silicon seals:( expensive....but the craftmen ship is top notch. so was the turbo, fully rebuilt, centered, pressure tested and balanced.

This is the standard engine that came with my 4x4 3.2gls Trition, the 4m41....Most people havent seen the engine under its shell..,,,take a look....:o

As for the Lightbox, well to be frank its due to budget issues, and frankly the lightbox does the same thing as all other ecu piggieback do....(it increases fuel injection, with a more fluwid-wide spray)....megafire, peakpower shop, and ecu shop...do exactly that, but with more percisie individual timing.... (all i can say is that megafire and those likes were way over 10,000 extra....

and well the lightbox is doing all i want it to. and with more fuel pressure increase all i can say is....why not, it is totally tuneable and can be configured with other piggieback systems.....

The brakes,,,,,yes i have been looking into that for a while... and well frankly RUNSTOP...brakes are not one of my choices, i have seen evo 4, rx7, r32 (4pisiton brake kit).....and well im keeping my stock rims... painted might come eventually....

the suspensions, yea know of a decent set for 20,000...and with added rear spring conversion set, it would give alot better traction, ride quality, ride feel, and it would be a good setup when wanting to go SIDEWAYS :D....

Posted

yup i got the lightbox tuned today, by A.K.

it runs superb now,

and i also got a monster 2" boost psi gauge,

im running 17psi atm,,, can it can handle alot more power and psi, the clutch has no problems,

i also have a boost controller, so i can increase or decrease boost at anytime :o

it should handel up to 25psi fine... :D

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Sorry guys to rain on your parade.

Here, in Japan, Mitsubishi is regarded as "Skoda" in 80s in the West.

43 of 47 prefectures (regions) of Japan have banned Mitsubishi. That means, no garbage trucks and other city vehicles may be bought from them.

My engineer, had a Mitsubishi MPV and tried to trade it in when buying a new Toyota MPV. The negotiation started as - he had to pay 2000US$ to get Toyota dispose of the Mitsubishi vehicle.

Ended as - he got 700US$ discount.

He told me - I could have had his Mitsubishi car for buying him a lunch box (bento) = 4US$.

(Back in Oz I had Mitsubishi Magna and then Mitsubishi Pajero).

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

anyways guys here are updated pics.... its one insane fun setup.

here are some part list....

TD05H-16g (subaru sti) Turbo rated at 340bhp

VR4 modified style Intercooler-Large

Lightbox Engine controller-Piggieback,/ fuel injection controller system

Lightbox boost cut controller-boost cut elimnator

Megafire-extream tune piggiback ecu

Ecu-shop Boost speed

Mild steel fully custom turbo header---crazyyyyyyy

Steal braided Turbo oil line

External wastegate 2.4bar (35psi) hks type s wastegate 40mm.-finally it is installed.

1.5" screamer pipe-for wastegate

2.5" stainless downpipe

Aliminum custom coldair intake,

with stainless braided pod filter

custom Aliminum Intercooler pipeing

Sarb boost controller.....

Monster 2" boost guage (psi)

Front grill Triton Evolution matte style black.

rear tray, automatic motor driven

with a spoiler

front bar.....

OK all i can say is with all this under the hood, and the special tunning, is that this automatic triton absolutly flys! just putting the gas on D in the dry compramises alot of tyre spin and fish tails. i dont even want to talk how carefully i have to drive in the wet to avoid drifting everything. Ummm if that doesnt seem good enough, how about massive wheel spin in second gear. REMEMBER THIS IS AN AUTO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!and with 245'70'r16 tyres......they arnt exactly low profile light tyres, haha.

anyways i will post video's etc soon!!!!! anyways today driving slightly in the wet, kicking down the gear at about 50-60km/hr, i got mad wheel spin and fishtailing.....:o

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Posted

Hey Phil,

Long time no see.The set up looks great!

I'm still looking into more power for mine but after a very dissapointing 2 weeks with a B16A EG,I dont think I will go that route.The turbo set up for the D15b sounds more fun!..Will keep you posted:)

Great work on the Triton!

Posted

Hey mate, how is everything going? how is your civic?

dude if u dont like the b16a route, then try the b16/b20 block (it has a crv 2L block, its got plently or torque and fun) u will be making about 200-220wheel horse power,

though turboing your dseries, u can produce perhaps about 160to the wheels or about 170whp, for about the same cost.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

i am defentially not worried about the head or any gaskets, as these turbo diesels, esspecially the renouned 4m41, and 4d56 can handle up to 45psi of boost. thats alot.... i am running what between 2 to 3/5 of max boost.

the only problem i get, is my transmission gets hot, even with really good oil. thus i have made up my mind to install another oil cooler, attached to the orginal one, thus having a dual oil cooler.

other mods as such are amada xtreme 2.5" nitrogen subtank shocks for the front, and 3" nitrogen subtank shock for the rear and a 2" adjustable and greasble shackel.

soon enough i hope to get some paint job on the fenders, or wheels if i dont get them changed, then much larger turbo, perhaps after that custom mtm big size 6nozzel injectors.

my plan all in all is to get this triton to high 13's. bloody good for a 2ton diesel truck....

so i still got quite a few mods to go.

Posted

Yes your engine seems to be taking it alright, it will be interesting to see tho if any weakness with the 4m41 shows up.

The 4m41 was designed from the old 4m40, to my knollage it is the same block bored out, therefore making the gasket area thinner and asking it to take more pressure, Im not knocking the motor Im a big Mitsubishi fan Im buying a Triton 3.2 myself thats why Im interested in yours :o

Posted

yea sure thing, so far it handels extreamly well, can soon i want to crack up to 30psi with a larger more high efficient turbo. just need supporting automatic gearbox mods. as tq will well be over 700pounds.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

hey guyes really cool what you all are doing to the trition trucks, I have a 2.5 16 valve turbo trition, i only have in a tuinit chip which they say produces about 15-20 more hp (makes a huge difference) everything else on the truck is still stock. I resently put in a boost guage and i am running about 16-17 psi are just over 1 bar. If i got a boost controller can i turn up the boost more, and by how much. Many thanks Josh

Posted

hey Josh,

the problem is when you crank up the turbo boost (without a boostcut device) you ecu will cut the engine,

and present a engine checklight due to overboost. this comes at 17psi and beyond.

the std turbo is good for 20-22psi! so if you wish to crank up the boost more, make sure you have a boostcut device,

and then a manual boost controller. after installing a boostcut and manual boost gauge,

go for a run on your top gear with wide open throttle, monitor your maximum turbo boost,

and then adjust the manual boost controller accordingly till you hit maximum of 22psi!

REMEMBER you need a boostcut device.

(i supply them, manual controllers, ECU MONSTER kit- you get 60-80hp and 150-230nm of torque!!!!) -with the std engine!!!!

and many other parts.

if you would like any qoutation, please send me a PM.

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/Modified-Pic...44#entry2648544 ----check this forum thread.

www.monster-p-industries.com

  • 2 months later...
Posted
Hey mate, how is everything going? how is your civic?

dude if u dont like the b16a route, then try the b16/b20 block (it has a crv 2L block, its got plently or torque and fun) u will be making about 200-220wheel horse power,

though turboing your dseries, u can produce perhaps about 160to the wheels or about 170whp, for about the same cost.

Hey Phil, sorry to drag up the dead here...

As for the b16A head and b20 block....are these reliable? It seems there is quite a bit of work to mate them up. What about garages here? Who can do this kind of swap and what would be the rough cost? I've seen a few for sale in 3 dr civics. One on the classified for 240K. looks pretty nice. Would it be better to buy one already swapped, or buy a car with a regular engine and get the work done? I think Id' rather buy one already modified and get that seen to...

Also, these engines are purchased "off the shelf" so to speak. Is it easy enough to get valves/piston rings here in the event it needs a rebuild. I assume they wouldn't fit an engine without checking this first though...

Thanks..

Posted

yes b16a heads with B20 block are reliable!

its not to much work, all in all it shouldnt take much longer than a week to do.

the cost of this modification is around the B45-55k mark, depending on the garage.

as for buying a already modified engine, its not ideal as you dont know what modifications or driving habits

is of the previous owner. if anything buy the std b16a, than get the b20 mod done.

b16a turbo, on average you make 220-240whp on a b16a. thats with a decent kit of injectors, gaskets, headers, turbo, external wastegate, piggyback/standalone, pressure regulator and a pump mod.

you just cant boost high on std compression and pistons, boosting 6-8psi daily use on std internals is reliable and holds very good gains.

the b20 has alot of torque and good hp gain esspecially for the value, but its threshold is highly limited. if you want to squeeze an extra 50-70hp you have to send a hole lot, like a standalone, individual intake manifold, headers, exhaust, intake even valves springs, cams and cam gears etc etc...

Hey mate, how is everything going? how is your civic?

dude if u dont like the b16a route, then try the b16/b20 block (it has a crv 2L block, its got plently or torque and fun) u will be making about 200-220wheel horse power,

though turboing your dseries, u can produce perhaps about 160to the wheels or about 170whp, for about the same cost.

Hey Phil, sorry to drag up the dead here...

As for the b16A head and b20 block....are these reliable? It seems there is quite a bit of work to mate them up. What about garages here? Who can do this kind of swap and what would be the rough cost? I've seen a few for sale in 3 dr civics. One on the classified for 240K. looks pretty nice. Would it be better to buy one already swapped, or buy a car with a regular engine and get the work done? I think Id' rather buy one already modified and get that seen to...

Also, these engines are purchased "off the shelf" so to speak. Is it easy enough to get valves/piston rings here in the event it needs a rebuild. I assume they wouldn't fit an engine without checking this first though...

Thanks..

Posted
yes b16a heads with B20 block are reliable!

its not to much work, all in all it shouldnt take much longer than a week to do.

the cost of this modification is around the B45-55k mark, depending on the garage.

as for buying a already modified engine, its not ideal as you dont know what modifications or driving habits

is of the previous owner. if anything buy the std b16a, than get the b20 mod done.

b16a turbo, on average you make 220-240whp on a b16a. thats with a decent kit of injectors, gaskets, headers, turbo, external wastegate, piggyback/standalone, pressure regulator and a pump mod.

you just cant boost high on std compression and pistons, boosting 6-8psi daily use on std internals is reliable and holds very good gains.

the b20 has alot of torque and good hp gain esspecially for the value, but its threshold is highly limited. if you want to squeeze an extra 50-70hp you have to send a hole lot, like a standalone, individual intake manifold, headers, exhaust, intake even valves springs, cams and cam gears etc etc...

Hey mate, how is everything going? how is your civic?

dude if u dont like the b16a route, then try the b16/b20 block (it has a crv 2L block, its got plently or torque and fun) u will be making about 200-220wheel horse power,

though turboing your dseries, u can produce perhaps about 160to the wheels or about 170whp, for about the same cost.

Hey Phil, sorry to drag up the dead here...

As for the b16A head and b20 block....are these reliable? It seems there is quite a bit of work to mate them up. What about garages here? Who can do this kind of swap and what would be the rough cost? I've seen a few for sale in 3 dr civics. One on the classified for 240K. looks pretty nice. Would it be better to buy one already swapped, or buy a car with a regular engine and get the work done? I think Id' rather buy one already modified and get that seen to...

Also, these engines are purchased "off the shelf" so to speak. Is it easy enough to get valves/piston rings here in the event it needs a rebuild. I assume they wouldn't fit an engine without checking this first though...

Thanks..

Hi Phil, thanks for the reply. Probably in a year or 2 I will look at this project more, due to lack of funds at the moment! A second car would be quite handy, and don;t really like to buy new (would rather my wife drives our main car, civic 2.0, and I get something "fun", rather than her climbing into an eco-car, that she is interested in.

45-65K seems quite reasonable, but would this also requite ecu tuning? Is the b16A ecu suitable? Is e-manage or something similar needed? I think I would just consider the basic engine and add a better header. Cams, if inadequate, could come later. I don't think I need a turbo, but I would be looking for 180-200 whp or so on the NA setup. I think that would be enough.

I prefer the b20b block, as it would be a daily driver. I would like the extra torque and don't wanna have to be in the vtec zone all the time to get moving. Saw a video of a b16/b20 street racing with a k20 3dr. maybe you have seen it. They were both bloody fast, but the k20 was a little faster, as one would expect.

Thanks for your time..

Posted

for the best performance of the b16/b20 engine, i would recommend a piggyback.

a standalone is not need to run those sort of specs.

at the same time if you do want to run a piggyback you will need to do support air mods,

such as large intake, high flow filter etc, basicly get as much air in as possible, so when tuning the fuel

on the piggyback, you have a larger parameter margin of increase of fuel with air (more power).

if you want to do some further air mods, you can fit individual throttle bodies, etc etc

the k20a is fast, 220hp 6speed, a b16a with a b20 will get about 200-210hp. expect 50-60hp gain and more than enough torque gain.

  • 11 months later...
Posted

so if i just run a boost controler an raise the boost about 2-3 psi more what will happen? because the van has on 26''rims so i'm looking for a little more power an yes it's a 4m41 d-id engine an 4X4auto.

Posted

For all diesels,

to obtain the potential of the increased boost,

you need to have more fuel delivery. otherwise the diesel will just run lean, which is not a problem.

but on the power side, their is not much gain without injecting extra fuel.

if you have th 4m41,

you should opt for our MV2, 5-1 piggyback

adds 65-85hp on avarage with std stock setup.

for more info, check out

www.monster-p-industries.com

kind regards, Philip m

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