Ultimate Diesel Parts

[philipm]

HEY guys,

i am proud to say i am a newly established partner in my friend company, commonrailcenter.com

i have decided to create this topic, to ask you guys! forum members etc!

what sort of parts would you guys be intrested in.....

we are adding a large array of parts, for example:

-wood grain dash, panneling for triton vigo etc....

-real carbonfiber dash for the triton, vigo.

-real carbon fiber hood for the triton.

-suspensions price ranging from $23000 up.... selection of brands

-front crash bars (bull bars-made from stainless steal, and some plastic with metal)

-Brake kits, rear converisons-instead of drumb brakes you get two single independent piston calipers and a large rotor. you will need 18" rims to fit this set. we will also supply upgrade brake rotors for the triton...for the oe wheel setup.

-Ecu, piggieback-powerupgrades, wide range of brands. including our house brand.

-yank hook

-boost cut, throttle controller

-IPOD aux cable

-Turbo's!-wide range of sizes.

are any of you guys intrested in any of these parts???? or different parts...please list them.....

i am asking you guys, so i can further provide you gents with all the parts you guys want!

thanks guys! mail me for more details...otherwise just post what u recon and what u might want....

[dave_boo]

2008 Vigo Pre-Runner 3.0L.

Would be interested in real carbon fibre bits and bobs. Also a good ECU and perhaps when the warranty is out an upgraded turbo. A turbo commander (sort of digital display that show the pressure and other stuff and has a shutdown timer built in) would be nice. That selection would make me a customer.

**oh, and a proper brush guard (heavy stainless with plastic accents) and tonneau/bed cap.**

[Plus]

I have an old Sportrider, my gf put a halt to my fuc_king around activites but I hope it's only temporary. Once I'm out of suspension, I'd be interested in brakes, though changing rims and rubber to accomodate bigger breaks is out of the question.

The other, diesel things are a year too late - I swapped the motor already. So far, with bits and pieces, it cost nearly a 100k and I get dirty looks from accounting.

Actually, I'm looking for a chance to get a 5 speed auto with manual shifter, and programmable ECU to replace 2jz's. Or piggyback ECU that would send tweaked signals to LPG ECU, extra power in lower RPM ranges is badly needed for a two ton beast.

[philipm]

Dave_boo, your reply:

the carbon fiber bits, as in the dash panneling trim, etc?

or the hood? or both?

as for the ecu,

i will only recommend the best: Megafire is popular and is a very high quality unit that increases approx 30-40hp and over 100nm of torque extra. thus for your vigo, it should push out approx 200hp and 450nm of torque. and yes the transmission can handel it. either auto or manual.....

megafire basicly injects more fuel pressure, with timing etc.... at the same time your fuel consumption will actually be less, due to the wider, more fluwid fuel injected spray, making it conbust better, not to menation when you have all that extra torque at hand you dont really need to step on the peddel to move at a decent pace.....

their are other products, such as a boost cut controller, top speed eliminator, throttle controller. and other piggiebacks- like the lightbox, fuel injection controller. etc..... ( which type would you be intrested in???)

as for the turbo...sure thing. is yours an auto? how much hp do you want???? (i have a modified mitsubishi triton 4x4, automatic 3.2gls pushing out approx 320hp 650nm of torque)

as for the turbo timer, well you have different options. u can go for a normal elvo turbo timer that cost like under 2000. or you can get a Greddy Profec B, which is about 15000k it is a boost controller, for high psi (full automatic, you can set veriable boost settings-low boost, mid and high) etc. it has many functions. the reason why this unit is so expensive is because its a stable unit for high psi. (our diesels can handel above 35psi!!!! with the ecus etc. anyways im running abouut 25-26psi)-thus most electronic boost controllers are limited to under 20psi.... but the profec B is upto 40psi. and is stable, with no boost creep or spiking......

anyways what do you think? you can always just get an info meter that will tell you basic readings of different things...they cost about 8000-12000, but they are not adjustable, they will perform the readings from the ecu etc. and acceleration 1/4mile etc....

anyways mate what do you have in mind?

[philipm]

Plus:

hey Plus, so i assume first of that you have the std 16" rims? or what size to be exact????

so u have 2jz twinturbo in your sport rider....kool! - we should take our cars out for a ride

as for your transmission do you mean a 5speed auto with an air shifter? defentially not a dog box for sure

as for the ecu, well mate you have several options here::::

- you can go for the basic cheap ecu that works well, but ofcourse does not unlock the 2jz full potential...., is the Greddy F-con, they go for less than 12000. without tuning. this unit is good if you want to keep the power levels lowers than 400hp.

-or else if you really want to spend for a quality product that will give u maximum tuning ability, your gona have to spend aleast 60K,

the best brands:

Motec M600

AEM-

you are running LPG?

[philipm]

btw the motec m800 cost like 100k -120K depending on the tune and series.

[dave_boo]

Dave_boo, your reply:

the carbon fiber bits, as in the dash panneling trim, etc?

or the hood? or both?

Well, the interior for sure, but there's a hood available? That would look pretty good on my black four door.

as for the ecu,

i will only recommend the best: Megafire is popular and is a very high quality unit that increases approx 30-40hp and over 100nm of torque extra. thus for your vigo, it should push out approx 200hp and 450nm of torque. and yes the transmission can handel it. either auto or manual.....

megafire basicly injects more fuel pressure, with timing etc.... at the same time your fuel consumption will actually be less, due to the wider, more fluwid fuel injected spray, making it conbust better, not to menation when you have all that extra torque at hand you dont really need to step on the peddel to move at a decent pace.....

I do understand about the piggyback systems, and their benefits can not be ignored. The fact that they just unplug when it's time to have service done is a plus. I don't know which one is right for me, but the more torque the better. I'm not looking for crazy horsepower, but the ability to just plug along no matter where or loaded down with what is a goal.

their are other products, such as a boost cut controller, top speed eliminator, throttle controller. and other piggiebacks- like the lightbox, fuel injection controller. etc..... ( which type would you be intrested in???)

as for the turbo...sure thing. is yours an auto? how much hp do you want???? (i have a modified mitsubishi triton 4x4, automatic 3.2gls pushing out approx 320hp 650nm of torque)

I'm not looking to go too buck wild until the warranty is expired. I have a manual four door Pre-Runner, so I don't know what you're planning no offering, and I'm afraid I've been out of the game for so long I can't really say what I'm going to require for a complete package that complements each other. Now, talk to me about TPI and earlier small block Chevies and I'd know exactly what I'd want to do with it, but diesel is a whole 'nuther beast.

as for the turbo timer, well you have different options. u can go for a normal elvo turbo timer that cost like under 2000. or you can get a Greddy Profec B, which is about 15000k it is a boost controller, for high psi (full automatic, you can set veriable boost settings-low boost, mid and high) etc. it has many functions. the reason why this unit is so expensive is because its a stable unit for high psi. (our diesels can handel above 35psi!!!! with the ecus etc. anyways im running abouut 25-26psi)-thus most electronic boost controllers are limited to under 20psi.... but the profec B is upto 40psi. and is stable, with no boost creep or spiking......

I'm a bit of a tightwad, but when I do drop money, I much prefer to buy quality items (because it's usually shown that you spend less in the long run). I do recognise Greddy's brand name; whether or not they're any good isn't in my database. I'm assuming at 7.5x the cost of the other brand listed it has the idle until cool function? I'm a bit insistent on that since I'm pretty bad about not letting a vehicle cool off before jumping out and I don't want my turbo to get coked up.

anyways what do you think? you can always just get an info meter that will tell you basic readings of different things...they cost about 8000-12000, but they are not adjustable, they will perform the readings from the ecu etc. and acceleration 1/4mile etc....

anyways mate what do you have in mind?

Post of some of the stuff you are going to be offering, cosmetic, and bed covers. If you're going to offer a proper brush guard (I really like the looks of the one offered from the dealer but it's too flimsy!), I'm interested in that also. I'll be back in town 19 November looking to burn some USD......

[Plus]

No, mine is non turbo 2jz vvti, no one knew how to fix turbo with LPG (without LPG I'd never get my gf's approval to throw money at the truck in the first place), and I need reliability the most, not power.

I understand that you might want racer boys with shitloads of money to spend on their hot rides, but I'm just a regular driver, Sportrider is a "family" vehicle, lots of space for kids. Hope it's not too disappointing.

Native jz ECU is meant to propel cars that weigh half a ton less and comply with petrol emission standards. So, basically, I want better low end performance, around 2,000 rpm, on motorway I can keep up with all the new trucks and easily reach 160km/h as it is, I don't want any faster than that with kids in the back, and extra power would mean extra mods to cope with it.

ECU boxes you mention are made for turbo JZs, aren't they? Also I don't really understand the relationship between my LPG ECU and a possible piggyback - would the piggyback feed the data to LPG or not?

ECU fix is the cheapest upgrade, I believe, and the first one I'd go for. Tranny I can get from my installer, he'd import a native one from Japan, if there's a real need. At the moment manual would give me better control of torque and power output, but after ECU upgrade it might become non-essential.

Ditto for breaks - let me see the final power first, then I will decide on what kind of breaks I really need.

[VocalNeal]

No, mine is non turbo 2jz vvti, no one knew how to fix turbo with LPG (without LPG I'd never get my gf's approval to throw money at the truck in the first place), and I need reliability the most, not power.

I understand that you might want racer boys with shitloads of money to spend on their hot rides, but I'm just a regular driver, Sportrider is a "family" vehicle, lots of space for kids. Hope it's not too disappointing.

Native jz ECU is meant to propel cars that weigh half a ton less and comply with petrol emission standards. So, basically, I want better low end performance, around 2,000 rpm, on motorway I can keep up with all the new trucks and easily reach 160km/h as it is, I don't want any faster than that with kids in the back, and extra power would mean extra mods to cope with it.

ECU boxes you mention are made for turbo JZs, aren't they? Also I don't really understand the relationship between my LPG ECU and a possible piggyback - would the piggyback feed the data to LPG or not?

ECU fix is the cheapest upgrade, I believe, and the first one I'd go for. Tranny I can get from my installer, he'd import a native one from Japan, if there's a real need. At the moment manual would give me better control of torque and power output, but after ECU upgrade it might become non-essential.

Ditto for breaks - let me see the final power first, then I will decide on what kind of breaks I really need.

Seems there are different sized injectors for LPG. Maybe your installer used ones that are too small? So not enough gas at higher demand, wide open at lower RPM.

My cheapie Suzuki has a basic throttle plate LPG conversion not the injection one so it suffers badly at higher RPM but I bought it for economy.

It sounds like you are still using the original transmission so as you already know the shift points and maybe even the gearing is all wrong. What about a slightly lower rear end ratio if cheap and available? Would that get you out of the 2000 hole by raising the RPM closer to the optimum for better torque?

Would also raise the top end RPM but as you have confessed to not wanting much more than 160 maybe that would work. Modern trend seems to be for lower RPM at cruising anyway and letting it buzz a bit wouldn't hurt. Economy shouldn't suffer as you already have LPG. Back in the day my Cooper S would run past 8000. Saw a tad over 7800 in top once, about 117 mph . Maybe not high in todays terms but it was quite happy on the motorway cruising at 5500.

[Plus]

There's no noticeable difference in power when switching from LPG to petrol, I got that one fixes about a week after lpg installation, so injector size is not an issue.

Actually, come to think of it, LPG ECU should be able to pump more gas regardless of what the engine ECU tells it, it's a kind of grey area for me. Maybe I should ask for ECU software myself and see what options are there, actually, I should be able to perform LPG tuning myself.

As for transmission - it's 4 speed auto that came with the engine not the diesel leftover.

I want to cruise at 120 and 2k+ rpm, for now it's over 3k. If I accelerate from there, the last gearshift happens at 170, but after that it downshifts again and settles at the same 3k. I suppose it's because there's not enough power at lower rpm to maintain speed of a heavier vehicle with heavier drag force, over 90km/h the air resistance grows dramatically.

[VocalNeal]

I want to cruise at 120 and 2k+ rpm, for now it's over 3k. If I accelerate from there, the last gearshift happens at 170, but after that it downshifts again and settles at the same 3k. I suppose it's because there's not enough power at lower rpm to maintain speed of a heavier vehicle with heavier drag force, over 90km/h the air resistance grows dramatically.

Hmm.. it's getting complicated. May I ask? Have you done the maths on the overall gearing? The original truck was diesel so transmission / rear end was set up for say 0-3500. Now you have a petrol engine / transmission set up for 0 -5800. If you haven't already done it it would be worth getting a Fortuner brochure and comparing transmission/ rear end ratios of diesel vs petrol. Obviously need to be closer to the petrol version. You probably have almost twice the torque etc of the Fortuner so in theory you should be able to run "taller" gearing but experience shows otherwise.

Don't forget to factor in the tire diameter. Not necessary if you can get close to petrol Fortuner as your tires maybe close in size. Does your "new" transmission have a sport/normal button maybe it should be in normal not sport.

Yes at highway speed you are pushing a brick. Unfrotunately your Supra? transmission doesn't know that. It thinks you are continually driving up hill.

[Plus]

Come to think of it - before conversion I had the same cruising rpm at 120 - around 3000.

Good point, I shouldn't expect a big change.

"Sport" mode, called ECT on Toyotas doesn't produce any visible effect, to be honest.

Actually I have a lot less torque than Fortuner, my jz is not a turbo engine. In low-mid ranges the car behaves as it has the old diesel, speedwise, the only surge comes when I rev up to 5,000, that's when I can keep up with new trucks that have a lot more torque. In city traffic I need some space to revv up and I need to step on gas at the right moment. On motorway it's very easy, I'm loving it, especially when I'm doing a double overtake on the left.

At this point I still don't reliase all implications of ECU thinking that I always drive up the hill. It's not supposed to be this way, there could be side effects. Tthat's why I was thinking about reprogrammable ECU.

[philipm]

i have a few friends with 2jz twinturbo with lpg.... intrested ??????

im sure that will change everything!

if not then deffentially check the ratio's sound that something isnt calibarted.

if anything throw in a turbo for like 25k, including pipes, intercooler and headers. you will have alot more grunt through out the entier rpm range depending on the turbo size. though i recommend a td05h, (subaru sti turbo/ mitusbishi evo 3 turbo) they spool way down like your old diesel, and has strong pull).

(otherwise if you state that your lpg setup is good, then perhaps you just need to get a different adjustable ecu. just got for the fcon. its a reliable and very popular piggieback ecu. and it should allow adjustability in all sorts of categories, which might be why its not running perfect....because its not tuned.)----esspecially if you say that when you switch to petrol you dont feel a difference???

[Plus]

I won't install turbo any time soon. Extra components dramatically increase failure probability and I need my car to be a realiable everyday workhorse most of all.

It's not a racing machine, you are looking for people who want extra power from their Vigos, I set a Vigo as a benchmark in the first place, there's too much resistance coming from all sides to push higher than that - price, reliability issues, safety issues, need to replace brakes/suspension, and last but not the least is my gf.

My type of conversion is traditionally done to save money, not gain power, however, with so many people going for it these days, I believe there's a demand for extra-tuning of swap+LPG conversions. There's a lot expertise in JZ perfomrance tuning, and a lot of expertise in LPG tuning, but not in the same place.

My garage has certainly heard of piggybacks but they don't offer any themselves, and if I go for one elsewhere I'll need to come back for LPG tunning afterwards.

Bottom line, I want more info about Fcon or any other recommended ECU chips or even programmable ECU boxes. Then I need to know how it would fit with my LPG ECU.

I'm looking for 20-30% gain at lower rpm, ideally, and it should be cost effective. I certainly wouldn't mind 20-30% gain at higher rpms too, there's no such thing as too much power, but lower to mid range torque is what I'm primarily concerned about.

[philipm]

http://www.fd3s.net/fcon_install.html

thats the HKS F-con manual,

(the greddy i was talking about, is the profec B boost controller)

i will ask my friends and garage, etc to get the best suited for you jz.

[philipm]

oh and i understand the way you think, people either want better performance, or better reliability and fuel economy!

[philipm]

my triton

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/shed.php?view=1&id=296

[Plus]

Philip, what's the ballpark figure for the f-con unit (not a very reassuring name, to be honest) including installation and tuning, especially if dyno is to be used, too. I understand it's meant to be a turbo controller, wouldn't it be an overkill for my modest needs?

It's taking me longer than expected to read and comprehend the manual, but I'll do it, eventually.

[philipm]

hey Plus,

i have another suggestion, scrap the F-con which btw is a veryyyyyyyyyy good unit, i kinda underpriced it, its about 20-30k.

though a Greddy Emanage is about 11k. -so thats the one ill be looking at, tuning would be another 3000, dyno run really depends where u do it. test car rates them at about 4500 for 4wheel, 2000 or so for 2wheel for about 1-2runs. expensive, though if u go to powerlab or dynoking they would be cheaper and better suited for tuning the greddy emanage etc., ball park figure, depending on the tuner and what u want.

btw the Greddy Emanage, F-con are piggieback units, they are not boost controller, or a turbo timer.

by best advise is,

buy the emanage, a boost controller (manual), and a turbo timer.

boost controller and turbo timer, i can get for u for about 6-7k. both! and for a high quality one's too.

anyways i will get the info of the ecu/piggieback for your application, as late as 2morrow or day after maximum. , i will get a qoute etc....

anyways could u simplify the current symptoms of your engine/lpg thus to make sure i find the right product for u.?

contact me,

086-086-3221 if u would liek some help.

[philipm]

we are including a selection of filters, etc....

[RockerRoller]

Wednesday I took my Fortuner Smart to TRD shop in Srinakarin rd to have a look at exhaust pipes modification. I was hoping to get noisier exhaust soudn but they told me that even if I fit double exhaust pipe, there is no additional noise unless i change the cat as well and that is quite expensive. I have to think about it and I put it on hold for now.

Anyway, I ended up getting a speed booster. The guy there installed inside the cabin, added it on the cable just up the gas pedal. They told me that it's a booster for lower speeds from 0-80 km/h. Well, i can feel quite some difference in acceleration now on everyday driving. It's pretty cool to feel the boost.

I am looking at adjusting the ECU as well, either with a piggyback or a complete remapping. I want to get around 200 HP from my Smart, but I have some reservations regarding the brakes.

My question is how much additional power/torque increase can standard TRD Smart brakes take without modification?

thanks to get some advice.

[initiala4]

I think the guy installed a sprint booster. It doesnt do anything than just open the throttle earlier. Its all about the butt dyno on that part, not on real data acquired that benefits anything.

[RockerRoller]

I think the guy installed a sprint booster. It doesnt do anything than just open the throttle earlier. Its all about the butt dyno on that part, not on real data acquired that benefits anything.

yes, that could be. I feel the car now is more "sprint happy". In fact I didn't know about it, and I was asking about ecu and piggybacks, and the guy brought up this thing and said " have a try with it", installed and I drove around. I liked it and I left it on the car, paid and went home. It really helps to slalom around other cars on a normal traffic.

In fact they told me that they have two types of boosters for slow speeds (city driving 0-80) and for highway driving (boost for 100+). I drive mostly in the town so I chose the first one. Indeed throttle is now more responsive and gear box changes later than before. Engine sounds it's also loader than before - which i like it as I hate quiet cars.

[philipm]

hey mate defentially check your inbox...