Good Mechanic For Old Bike? Yamaha Tzr150rr

[mxyz250newb]

Bike may need new piston / rings (atleast rings) and a carb cleaning, maybe new air filter as well... 1995 yamaha tzr150rr

anyone know a guy who can either pick it up or ride it to his shop? i'm located at phahon yothin soi 59 near tesco lotus luksi

the bike was running fine for 2 days now all of the sudden it doesnt want to rev out and takes 10X as long to build power , previous owner said it may have been overboared

my email

[Thanh-BKK]

Hi.

Too bad that you live so far away, my daily work load does not permit to come out there and check it out for you.

However if it's the ring you will hear a high-pitched rattle when you let go of the gas while riding (gear engaged) and you will also hear that at idle.

More likely something wrong with the YPVS if the bike is equipped with it, or the exhaust pipe. My guess is on the YPVS.

Also, drain the carb. There is a screw on the bottom of the float bowl, open that screw and let the petrol from the float bowl drain out. Once it stops, open the fuel cock for a few seconds to flush the float bowl. Then tighten that screw again. This procedure will remove any water or dirt particles that are sitting in the float bowl (my RXZ does that sometimes).

Best regards......

Thanh

[Powerband]

The symptom your describing is a result of the inner engine seals. Theres either water or oil leaking into the magnetic flywheel area. Or it may be the CDI, CDI's for this bike is cheap under 500 baht.

to test the ypvs valve, turn the key to the on position and listen for the sound that sounds like a robot. The sound should last for about 2 seconds. If its making sound the valve is working. But theres a chance the gear is broken that opens the valve.

Check the water in the radiator and look in the engine oil window and see what the oil looks like.

[mxyz250newb]

theres no sound when the bikes in the on position, no lights either, signals not working either

battery is getting replaced tomorrow but only thing that scares me is that it WAS running good (without lights/signals for 2 days)

i'll drain the carb and let you guys know if that helps, also i'll get the oil changed as well

[mxyz250newb]

also where can engine seals , pistons, rings, and cdi's and the likes be found? I couldnt find anything through ebay and google wasnt my friend either today

[mxyz250newb]

bought new battery today, wasn't charged though...

the bike doesnt recharge the new battery at all I definatley think i've got stator issues....dam_n i'm pissed off

the seller said it was just the battery was needing replacement, he probably charged it the night before just so I would get a day or two out of it, what a bastard, his names Martin Armstrong from the UK, ripped me right off

[Thanh-BKK]

Hi.

Seems to be a common disease with those engines. Light and battery charging are done by the same coil in the magneto, just get it replaced. Cost around 200-300 Baht. It will fail again sooner or later, i have replaced mine three times already. They are under-dimensioned... particularly if you run higher wattage light bulbs. Should you also need a new rectifier it will cost another roughly 300 Baht.

Best regards.....

Thanh

[mxyz250newb]

thanks thanh i sent you a pm regarding parts, i gotta find those suckers

i've got thai translater if need be as well

[VocalNeal]

thanks thanh i sent you a pm regarding parts, i gotta find those suckers

i've got thai translater if need be as well

Just a thought but there is a Yamaha main dealer on Phahon Yothin. North of the MRT. Been there twice before for unrelated reason. Very nice helpful people. You translator should be able to find it on Yamaha site under service.

[mxyz250newb]

I took it to a multi dealer franchise, they got it running to about 60% power, and now the lights and signals and horn all work ,and when i turn the key i do hear a "robot noise" now...

so anyways, it still doesnt want to pickup power fast, like, the first 2 days  i had it it seemed to rev out 100% , then it would only rev out like 10%, now after servicing its at about 60% lol... 

looks like its gonna need some new engine parts me thinks, i rode the bike for about 3 hours tonight just to make sure theres no hickups, or if it might suddenly lose all power again but it stayed at 60% the whole time

[Powerband]

what parts do you need exactly?

What are you idling at right now? If the valve isn't set 'open' enough and the idle is too low, it can have that effect. Extremely low idle can resemble a piston knocking sound. Try bumping it up to around 1300-1500rpm and open the valve just a little bit more.

[mxyz250newb]

just curious on how to open the valve more?

also i'm idling at 1200rpm i'll bump it up more

[bangkokeddy]

the seller said it was just the battery was needing replacement, he probably charged it the night before just so I would get a day or two out of it, what a bastard, his names Martin Armstrong from the UK, ripped me right off

a fellow Brit doesn't deserve that kind of treatment, come on where are the mods?????? I don't know the seller but I do know the bike - Last I saw it was on craigslist advertised for 10k, am I right? Seller probably got it for 9k or less. Would anyone else expect a perfect bike for 9,000 baht? Anyone sane that is?

[Powerband]

just curious on how to open the valve more?

also i'm idling at 1200rpm i'll bump it up more

hard to explain, look for the pulley where the cable goes over it and look for the indicators.

There's also an airscrew you can mess with to adjust the power. If you mess with one you have to adjust them all. The idle should return quickly after revving it up to around 7k rpm, but the sound shouldn't be too high pitched, or else your running to lean, turn the airscrew 1/2 turn at a time, then finalize with a 1/4 turn.

Counterclockwise you go leaner/more air.

[MaiChai]

Funnyily enough I just got my TZR150 rebored today. I have the parts book for this and know the bike inside out. Bike is dead easy to get parts for and shares alot of common parts for other Yamahas, so its a delight of a bike to maintain (and very cheap). My bike was running for 5 mins and then the spark plug would get oiled up. So firstly I took the piston off and cleaned all the coke off the piston, put it back in and same problem. So looked at it more closly and when the piston is at the bottom of its cycle, there is quite alot of movement. So got it rebored locally and he took just a little off and a new piston/rings/cylinder that goes through the piston for 450 baht! Reason its so cheap is that the the shop does the work themselves and does not need to pass it on to someone else to do (they had three display cabinets full of piston boxes!). I have not had time to put it back together again (but its a breeze).

The power valve gets clogged up from time to time and with mine, the piston rings were sticking (groove in the pistons coked up). 2 strokes can suffer the gasket failing between the cylinder and crankcase, which lets in oil. But this is not a problem with the TZR150. You need to have the right spark plug (a NGK BR9ES; from the parts book); this really makes a difference, and I bought a new copy carb from Sapan Kwai for 600 baht (a bargain IMHO as its one of the most important parts).

The carb does not have a screw at the bottom, but has a large hex nut that is difficult to open with the carb in situ. The whirling you hear on power on is the power valve servo (look after this as they are expensive to replace).

I also just bought new cables for the valve servo; about 50 baht each (copies).

I also have an NSR150SP (proarm) and a 1st generation NSR150 (which is surprising a good bike; in better condition than my proarm and heavier so you can really throw it around like a big bike). I need to sell on of these as I have too many bikes!

[MaiChai]

In case you think I am a troll or lieing, here are the puppies waiting to go back in. Notice the 3RR on the cylinder; any TZR/TZM/VR specific parts have this as the prefix on the part number.

[MaiChai]

Check your spark plug. Is it coated in oil? Gap should be 0.7-0.8mm. Clean it up and run it a bit and then see what its like. Is it thick oil or light oil (4t from the crankcase or 2t 2strok oil). Thick oil means piston rings are leaking; 2t oil means your oil pump is not setup properly on worn (worn is more likely; ah well more oil means less likely to get a piston sieze so thats ok in a funny sort of way:) ).Regarding the spark plug I use the non resistive one (NGK B9ES; R means resistive and cuts down radio interference which I am not bothered with; prefer a bit more power instead so I use B9ES and not BR9ES).

Take the cover off the power valve. Is everything screwed together? Turn the ignition off and on. Does the power valve move around with little effort? The marker to the top right should line up with the extra hole when the engine is off. If the servo is struggling to move the valve are the cables ok (inner cable not frayed). You can lubricate them with light oil (singer oil should be fine; you will need to take the tank off to access the top of cables on the servo). The power valve can get clogged up; its easy to take apart; clean and put back without needing to take the cylinder head apart/exhaust off. Its basically a barrel with a cutout that rotates in a horizontal cylinder between the exhaust and the piston. You can remove the two bolts on the other side of the cylinder (catching the ball bearing and spring that holds it in place). On the power valve side, remove the centre bolt on the pully and you see two bolts behind it that you can remove. I attached a photo of the parts book (need to scan these in properly).

Just like to say the pulley on mine is the other way round compared to the parts book and valve splits into two pieces on mine, rather than being a single piece; but its not uncommon to see subtle differences between your bike and the parts book! The parts are interchangeable and they get slightly redesigned for whatever reasons, but they still fit and do the same job!

[MaiChai]

bought new battery today, wasn't charged though...

the bike doesnt recharge the new battery at all I definatley think i've got stator issues....dam_n i'm pissed off

They ship them dry. That means no sulphuric acid. You then buy a 'red' bottle of ready diluted sulphuric acid and charge it properly using a battery charge for 24 hours. They are shipped dry for safety and so they don't deteriorate while sitting in the warehouse/shop.

[MaiChai]

You might find this useful: blocked up exhaust: http://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=1116196

[MaiChai]

My bikes re-bore has worked a treat. The exhaust was gunged up too, so cleaned that too. Used caustic soda. Detached the end box and took that apart and bunged the exhaust up and filled it with caustic soda and left overnight. Probably needs doing again as the caustic soda stops working when it gets clogged up with oil. Left the end pieces in caustic soda too. Works a treat dissolving the harded coke, but does not seem to do much with the gunge. Anyway wanted to advise on what I did, in case its useful for someone. 2 stroke exhausts do get gunged up and can affect you performance and the engine is tuned with the exhaust. An extremly gunged up exhaust will cause idling and snuffing of power (see the link on my last post).

An irritation with giving advice on these forums: you go to all the effort of trying to help folks, and they never come back to update the thread. Since the thread does not get updated, its a little selfish of the original poster in that he asks for help, gets help, and then never advises on the final outcome. Giving a final summary of the outcome means that at least it might be useful for someone else in the future.