I would like to see a Thai sparky with sharp enough wire strippers to nick the cable.

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I would like to see a Thai sparky with sharp enough wire strippers scissors to nick the cable.

Had to correct you there Forky

Seriously, despite being 'annealed' the Thai solid in smaller sizes is really delicate, the slightest ding and it will snap

....and if they can't find the scissors, they use their molars, and hope uncle has not turned the juice on.

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Another point to consider, is that if 'they' crop the one solid core, what's to say they don't crop multiple strands of the stranded. Leaving the cable with an haircut. Seen this many times in the UK.

Anyway back on topic, I did a search at RS Thailand, and even they do not stock it!

To the OP do you have a full conduit system?

EDIT: Ignore last question, forgot that you have issues with the nicked cable

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I have just tested some speaker cable at 1000V which was 1.5mm, and got 21M ohms, gives you an option I suppose.

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I have just tested some speaker cable at 1000V which was 1.5mm, and got 21M ohms, gives you an option I suppose.

Not even in jest Forky, some bright spark will take you at your word

Many moons ago as a student I used some phone cable for mains, it didn't catch fire or go bang, I didn't die, oh the age of innocence.

^ Indeed sir, just goes to how important it is to actually do insulation test on your cables with the right equipment, and not a DMM. Although the readings do comply with current regs, under load over long periods would IMO deteriorate the cable insulation quite quickly.

Anyway good news I have sourced the cable, however it is in Pattata, but they said they can deliver

Tel: 038 427 115

Edit: added more content

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Bought yesterday in Thai Watsadu this cable.

Stranded. They have many colors, size from 0.5mm² up to 2.5mm².

They also sale it by the meter. Same lable but then only one core,

About isolation values; just made an electric fence. The supply cable is running parallel a cable what feeds tubular lights. The tubular lights are flashing with the same frequency as the electric fence works. The supply cable was a 300V (bought from a car shop) rated cable. I placed the supply cable in a metal conduct, what stopped the flashing from the lights, but then the electric fence did not work.... Changed the cable for a 700V rated cable, and then the fence worked, but only for two days. Will now place a 6mm air tube around the feeding cable to try to increase the isolation value.

The electric fence works with a voltage from something inbetween 10.000V and 60.000V. Difficult to buy cable for this....

Arjen.

The cable illustrated is single core 1.5mm2, not stranded. You can use double insulated cables to increase the insulation resistance and if you place in metal conduit make sure the conduit is grounded, this will create a "faraday cage" around the cable. It may solve your problem.

air is a very good insulator

Trying to run the HV from a fencer any distance is going to be a problem, inside a conduit more so. The fencer can only supply a very small current, any leakage will kill it dead.

Solution, place the fencer unit near the fence, put it in an IP rated box if it's not an outdoor unit, run its power supply up the conduit.

^+1 Xy

and +1

What voltage are you running through this cable, I misunderstood I think, I thought you were running the supply cable (220 volts) to the fence controls. As Crossy says, put the controls next to where you are installing the fence and run 220v to there if possible.