Interior paint, any recomendations?

[briley]

I'm looking to repaint the interior walls of my condo. Going to be the same colour, paint to go onto mainly plasterboard (Gypsum) wall.

Which brand and type should I go for?

The walls are OK, just a bit dirty after 10 years but want to get away with just one coat.

There is one part of the condo that has a cement wall that is rougher than the rest. Is there any paint that could make it smoother?

[konying]

Depends on your budget.

I use TOA washable paint, would suggest to make sure to use washable.

TOA is reasonably priced

Saying that, there is a new paint i have seen advertised something about "crocodile skin" looks interesting, worth checking it out

PS, No paint can make walls smoother, but the new crocodile skin i think is a thicker texture, so it might do the trick

Edited October 31, 2014 by konying

[meatboy]

dulux easy care.

[briley]

Hadn't noticed TOA washable - so many different tins to choose from!

Don't expect to get a smooth wall from a rough one but just a touch smoother.

Thanks

[konying]

Hadn't noticed TOA washable - so many different tins to choose from!

Don't expect to get a smooth wall from a rough one but just a touch smoother.

Thanks

The washable TOA branded as 4 seasons

[steve187]

Beger is a good brand - http://www.beger.co.th/products/group_detail.php?id=27

[Rsquared]

One coat you may get away with.....but two coats really do make a huge difference.

Having said that.....depends if you own the condo or are renting, if renting...one coat.

[MoD1977]

Dulux easycare is very good

regards

MoD

[briley]

I'm and owner so suppose two coats!

Tried to get information on Dulux and Baan & Beyond in Chiang Mai - they would only show me TOA products. Suspect the Dulux person was away! Going to try Global instead.

[bankruatsteve]

There is very little difference between the premium grades of the popular brands. Go with price or personal preference but make sure it the premium grade.

[kevvy]

I was works manager of ICI Paints (Thailand) 1996-2001, but still keep contact with the company and old colleagues. The Thai guy I trained to take over from me in 2001 is now the big boss of Paints Thailand.
Some tips for painting;
1) prepare the surface well. This is very important.
If there is fungus, you need to kill and remove it. Scrub it off with proprietary solution(peroxide--expensive) or household disinfectant which is just as effective.
2) let newly plastered walls dry well before priming. You can sand walls after priming. I have heard some people applied 2 primer coats. Maybe a good idea with the relatively coarse grade of building sand used for plastering here.
3) if coating old paint -it tends to be powdery when rubbed or maybe blistered ( scrape off the blisters as they are formed by moisture trying to get out of the wall which is why you see most blisters just above the ground),scrub down well with brush and water and let it DRY, apply a sealer coat eg Dulux Maseal or Supercote Mafix -they are almost the same formula but Supercote is a bit cheaper. These sealers penetrate the plaster allowing good adhesion. They are not expensive and will prolong the life of the coating.
4) use QUALITY paint. You get what you pay for, and the top quality paints will last a lot longer.Top quality paints use Titanium oxide, but low quality paints use chalk too. I am naturally biased to DULUX having worked for ICI. It was and probably still is the best quality paint in Thailand, but TOA have made great strides and their SuperShield is very good too,
5) I have always insisted in painting only one coat per day, even in Thailand, and the coatings have lasted a long time. My BKK house has been painted with Dulux Weathershield- 2 coats on top of sealer- twice in 18 years and still looks very good. When you think a paint film SURFACE is dry to the touch, that is not enough, as the chemical reaction of drying within the film needs time to complete,
6) You need to watch Thai painters i.e. half of them local lads who don't have a current job. DON'T LET THEM DILUTE THE PAINT! except Primer by 10%. Water based Paint is made in the factory, using quality treated town's water, ready for use. Diluting the paint gives a thinner film, so won't last long and lacks covering power. I threatened my Doi Hang painting team that I would fine them 2000B/ tin if they added water, so got a satisfactory job.
7) Paint both sides of a garden wall. Otherwise rainwater will be absorbed by unpainted brickwork, then sun on your side will draw the moisture through the brick and form blisters under your paint even if you used the best paint in the world.
I do not recommend green paint for outside walls. So many fade and look washed out by rain. I think it is the blue tinter used to make the yellow green that is less stable to rain.
Yellows and combinations of yellow,red and/or black tinter are the more stable colours.
I CANNOT recommend the most expensive Dulux Primer, I think it is named SuperPlus, and claims to be OK on new plaster after 2 days. It is far too viscous and plasticy, difficult to apply. There are 3 grades of Dulux primer. I think the middle grade and cost is the best, but applied to a dry wall.
Supercote (ICI)Acrylic semigloss is a good 2nd grade paint, therefore much cheaper, which will last 5 years+ outside and much longer inside. I have used Supercote semi-gloss inside before OK, but note there are 2 types, indoor and outside. The only difference is outdoor has more antibacteria and fungicide,and I have always used that indoors too. It is more viscous than most paints but don't be fooled into adding water. It brushes out well. Many Thai painters quoting for a job, including buying the paint, like Supercote because they think they can dilute the thick paint, so covering a larger area cheaper - for them. They are wrong for a lasting job.
Nowadays I use Dulux Easicare semigloss for inside walls and matt Pentalite ( or cheaper Inspire) for ceilings.
Supercote solvent based Gloss paint is quite good, lasts well and is good value. I have not tried the new water based environmentally friendly gloss paints, so cannot comment about them.
If you have a very large project to paint, e.g. condo block or factory, contact the paint company headquarters sales project team. You will probably get a good discounted price and possibly some service backup. Alternatively buy from a big dealer, especially when they have promotions, as they get the biggest discounts from the factory, up to 40% for high volume sales.
Best of luck in your painting.
Vernon P..chiang rai ties

[ThaiSmarterThanYou]

Hello, do you know how much should cost the paint for a 30 sqm condo ? Thank you.

[briley]

Kevvy -

Thanks for a very informative reply.

Yes, Weathersheild is very good - my UK house was done in white 10 years ago and still look good - and has a 15 year guarantee!

I have tried the water based gloss paints in the UK and was not happy. Not glossy at all and tends to dry a bit powdery. I does not seem to have the lasting power. But for a rented house interior it is quick and easy to apply!

[ThaiFelix]

I used Dulux Easycare inside and Dulux Weathershield outside (along with their appropriate primers) 5 years ago and am very very pleased.   Unless you are really on a tight budget or there are other constraints I would definitely apply two coats.

 

A few words of warning.  I used several building teams because I built my place in stages ie house, boundary walls, workshop etc.  I needed to watch them like a hawk all the time because :

 

1.  Mixing.  They always grabbed a piece of bamboo or broomstick (round profile) to mix because it is easier even though I had given them a couple of WIDE paddles to stir.  One guy insisted on using his hands up to his elbow if I wasnt watching!

 

2.  Thinning.  I had to watch them closely as they will always try to add more water because its easier to apply and dont seem to comprehend that thinner coats equal poorer finish and durability.

 

3.  Applying.  No-one amongst the 3 different teams I used for different stages wanted to, nor knew how to use a roller tray.  They would dip the rollers into the paint pail instead!

 

4.  Mixing up the paint containers.  Because of their roller dipping method they would decanter the paint from the too deep big containers into smaller paint pails.  I was using three different white paints:  Weathershield for exterior, Supercote for ceilings and an undercoat for the ceiling....all white.  At the end of the day all the leftover paint was in wrong containers and almost impossible to differentiate!!

 

5.  Cutting-in.  To avoid mess from dripping I had them paint the white ceilings first.  After when they started painting the grey walls I soon learnt they could not successfully cut in between the walls and ceilings (no cornices).  It was a veritable dogs dinner.  I had to go out and buy more wall paint so they could paint the ceilings the same colour!

 

Be warned!

[mogandave]

Yeah, as others have pointed out, preparation is key. If you’re repainting old paint, after it’s clean, smooth and dry, I like the TOA Tack (Tac?) primer. Particularly if painting over gloss or semi gloss. It is clear, but dries fast and sticks!

 

I like semi-gloss TOA Supershield for walls inside and out, and flat ceiling paint for (yep) the ceiling.

 

If the walls are bumpy, flat paint is better as it does not show lumps as bad as gloss.

 

Again, first thing is a good scrub. I like laundry detergent & Scotchbrite pads. Rinse well and let dry...

 

If you’re painting a dark color you can sometimes get the guys to put pigment in the primer (making it easier to cover) but they won’t all do it.

 

Also, make sure you fill any holes a few times as it will shrink. Larger holes I like to fill with cement, then top with a latex filler to minimize shrinkage. A big hole filled with latex filler takes a long time to get hard. (Hmmm, there’s a joke in that somewhere...)

 

[yrag]

I do what the pros do, Hilton,Home Pro...etc

1.. prep is more important than the Paint

2. Clean walls with a solution of Bleach/water, kills everything and will clean surface effectively...

3. Sand cement wall with large sanding block available at The Watsadu, prime with Jotun cito 09, goes deep into the cement...solvent base..what Home Pro uses out side and inside their buildings...

4. Use a primer...again use a primer even over old work...TWO COATS

5. Use a semi-gloss Paint on the Drywall/Gypsum...easier to clean and more.

6. Toa and i like 4 seasons Paint...SEMI_GLOSS...flat is too pourous....

[kannot]

On 9/5/2018 at 10:37 PM, mogandave said:

Yeah, as others have pointed out, preparation is key. If you’re repainting old paint, after it’s clean, smooth and dry, I like the TOA Tack (Tac?) primer. Particularly if painting over gloss or semi gloss. It is clear, but dries fast and sticks!

 

I like semi-gloss TOA Supershield for walls inside and out, and flat ceiling paint for (yep) the ceiling.

 

If the walls are bumpy, flat paint is better as it does not show lumps as bad as gloss.

 

Again, first thing is a good scrub. I like laundry detergent & Scotchbrite pads. Rinse well and let dry...

 

If you’re painting a dark color you can sometimes get the guys to put pigment in the primer (making it easier to cover) but they won’t all do it.

 

Also, make sure you fill any holes a few times as it will shrink. Larger holes I like to fill with cement, then top with a latex filler to minimize shrinkage. A big hole filled with latex filler takes a long time to get hard. (Hmmm, there’s a joke in that somewhere...)

 

Large  holes use car  body  filler, dries in minutes can  fill huge  holes fast with that

[Kieran00001]

Paint for external masonry walls with smooth out your wall a bit, as would multiple layers, or you could get skim over the dents with some gypsum or poly-filler and then paint it. 

[roger101]

On 9/11/2018 at 2:34 AM, yrag said:

I do what the pros do, Hilton,Home Pro...etc

1.. prep is more important than the Paint

2. Clean walls with a solution of Bleach/water, kills everything and will clean surface effectively...

3. Sand cement wall with large sanding block available at The Watsadu, prime with Jotun cito 09, goes deep into the cement...solvent base..what Home Pro uses out side and inside their buildings...

4. Use a primer...again use a primer even over old work...TWO COATS

5. Use a semi-gloss Paint on the Drywall/Gypsum...easier to clean and more.

6. Toa and i like 4 seasons Paint...SEMI_GLOSS...flat is too pourous....

Can you tell me where to buy this Primer?