Ford Everest - All New 2015

[luwahn]

My Titanium+ does Ace... with 265/50R20 Goodyear EffecientGrip SUV tires.. Except for the spare, which is a Bridgestone Dueller (bit strange).

rear34.jpg

It just occurred to me that my 1800 kg SUV has the same 265/50R20 size tyres as your EV. Though our tyres are different mfg., what is the mfg suggested tire pressure on your vehicle (is that your tyres actual pressure?) and what is the weight of your EV? The guys at Bquik recommend 40 lbs. but my tyres still look a tad 'under-inflated' when compared to yours.

I wish the tyre mfg. would list a weight range load per every 5 - 10 lbs of air pressure graduation in each of their tyre models.

All tires have a load index printed on the sidewall, which tells you the maximum safe weight loading:

ev-tire.jpg

You can compare the load rating of the original (OEM) tires to work out what pressures your new tires need.

Here's a post I made a few years ago:

Rule of thumb here is: OEM tire load rating - new tire load rating + manufacturers recommended PSI

Here's the recommended pressures for the OEM tires on the EV:

ev-tire-label.jpg

As an example, If I were to change the OEM GoodYear 265/50R20 107T tires for Yokohama Parada Spec-X 265/50R20 111V tires, the pressures would all need to go down 4 PSI.

Note that this rule of thumb is based on the assumption that tires with the same load index will have roughly the same sidewall stiffness - use as a guide only, and supplement with your own common sense, visual inspection and personal preferences.

Good.

This particular situation is where the OEM tyres are 245/70R16 - 107s with mfg suggested air pressure = 29 psi, what air pressure could be calculated for a replacement set of 265/50R20 Parada Specs?

Edited August 29, 2015 by luwahn

[IMHO]

All tires have a load index printed on the sidewall, which tells you the maximum safe weight loading:

ev-tire.jpg

You can compare the load rating of the original (OEM) tires to work out what pressures your new tires need.

Here's a post I made a few years ago:

Rule of thumb here is: OEM tire load rating - new tire load rating + manufacturers recommended PSI

Here's the recommended pressures for the OEM tires on the EV:

ev-tire-label.jpg

As an example, If I were to change the OEM GoodYear 265/50R20 107T tires for Yokohama Parada Spec-X 265/50R20 111V tires, the pressures would all need to go down 4 PSI.

Note that this rule of thumb is based on the assumption that tires with the same load index will have roughly the same sidewall stiffness - use as a guide only, and supplement with your own common sense, visual inspection and personal preferences.

Good.

This particular situation is where the OEM tyres are 245/70R16 - 107s with mfg suggested air pressure = 29 psi, what air pressure could be calculated for a replacement set of 265/50R20 Parada Specs?

The exact same math as my example assuming the ones you buy are also 111V rated - but like I say, use commonsense as well - if they don't look right @ 25PSI, put more air in them

In any case, the amount you're going up/down in pressure is rarely more then +/- 4 PSI - if your new tires differ in load rating more than 4 points from OEM, you've probably got inappropriate tires for the car.

[NanLaew]

... you've probably got inappropriate tires for the car.

Really....?

No such thing.

[luwahn]

Went to test drive the Everest today but was told to come back tomorrow. :-( Was also told that the EV test drive vehicle would be the 2.2l and that they would not have any 3.2l deliveries until sometime next year. :-( When I return, I will see if I can find out what the dealer's monthly Ev delivery allotment will be.

IMHO, did you have all your windows covered with ceramic film or just the moon roof? Do you know if ceramic film is GPS friendly and if so, does it come in 'clear' for the front windshield?

[IMHO]

Went to test drive the Everest today but was told to come back tomorrow. :-( Was also told that the EV test drive vehicle would be the 2.2l and that they would not have any 3.2l deliveries until sometime next year. :-( When I return, I will see if I can find out what the dealer's monthly Ev delivery allotment will be.

IMHO, did you have all your windows covered with ceramic film or just the moon roof? Do you know if ceramic film is GPS friendly and if so, does it come in 'clear' for the front windshield?

Mine has ceramic all over, yes. Ceramic does not block GPS or cell phone signals at all. As for your test drive, bear in mind that each individual dealer has their own allocations (rationing), so it might be worth phoning some dealers in nearby towns/prvinces/khets....

[luwahn]

Went to test drive the Everest today but was told to come back tomorrow. :-( Was also told that the EV test drive vehicle would be the 2.2l and that they would not have any 3.2l deliveries until sometime next year. :-( When I return, I will see if I can find out what the dealer's monthly Ev delivery allotment will be.

IMHO, did you have all your windows covered with ceramic film or just the moon roof? Do you know if ceramic film is GPS friendly and if so, does it come in 'clear' for the front windshield?

Mine has ceramic all over, yes. Ceramic does not block GPS or cell phone signals at all. As for your test drive, bear in mind that each individual dealer has their own allocations (rationing), so it might be worth phoning some dealers in nearby towns/prvinces/khets....

I finally took my Everest test drive this afternoon and the experience was exactly as IMHO described earlier - This SUV is sweet and a driving pleasure. Being MU-7 owner, the power train of the Everest was smoother through its total range - at times, it brought to mind 'moments of BMW-like ride': The transmission shifted beautifully and was more car-like. There were other moments when the ride let me 'know' I was driving the 2.2L with its 160 hp and not the more powerful 3.2L with its 200 hp which I know should be a better choice for effortlessly powering the EV up the likes of 'Phuket hill' or those mountain roads up north, no matter what or how much load the SUV is carrying. Along with the handling, the braking was nice and crisp - effortless.

The interior was of upscale design in my estimation and with seats of a nice and higher quality of leather, too ..... comparisons to 'higher class' SUVs, indeed!

I was very impressed with the driving and overall quality of the Everest. This will be the next SUV I buy!

I asked the salesman how many new EVs he received from the factory "tuke dueng" and he answered that with the Everest being mfg for 70% export, of the remaining 30% for LOS distribution, his dealership gets 3 models. I asked him the question again just to confirm what he was saying......I only hope he meant 'weekly' as opposed to the 'monthly' as I was trying to ask. Then I asked if I could buy this very Test Drive model and he said, 'Yes'! I asked if I could get some sort of a discount since it was a 'Demo' model. He said, "No, no extras," and pointed to the MSRP! With a short supply of models, I guess he knows he doesn't have to dole out the freebies(?).

IMHO, what upgrades or modifications do you have in mind for your Everest? What audio/entertainment upgrades did you add to your PJS?

If I had a new Everest I would immediately switch the OEM tyres for a set of Parada Spec-X tires (and enjoy a discount at the same time), install ceramic window tint and a (race)chip.....oh, and buy a top-of-the-line Garmin GPS!

Edited August 31, 2015 by luwahn

[IMHO]

IMHO, what upgrades or modifications do you have in mind for your Everest? What audio/entertainment upgrades did you add to your PJS?

Someone asked earlier what mods I might do, and I said 'probably none'. However, I might change the wheels - if I can find a design that matches the vision I have in my head (so far, no luck though).

If de-orange-peeling and glass coating selected areas of the paintwork counts as a mod, well, I'm half way done on that too

As for the old PJS, the entertainment system mods there was the addition of an 11" roof mounted screen (this later became standard in a minor change model), a JBL MS-8 DSP/Amplifier, an Alpine SWR-T12 subwoofer hidden in the rear floor along with it's own small amplifier, and a WDTV integrated in (completely hidden) with it's USB ports extended into a blank panel under the ashtray.

5+ years ago, this made a lot of sense - now that bluetooth audio sounds decent, and all your music is on your phone, it doesn't make so much sense now - especially seeing as the EV has a 10-speaker sound system (the even includes a centre channel speaker and a subwoofer), that does the job well enough

Edited August 31, 2015 by IMHO

[IMHO]

Do you know if ceramic film is GPS friendly and if so, does it come in 'clear' for the front windshield?

It doesn't come in absolute clear, no, but the Huper Optik 70% grade isn't too dark for a windshield:

http://huperoptikcorp.com/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%9F%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%A1/

[Ace of Pop]

Dont forget theres already 10% tint on O.E Windscreens,if like me drive distances at night its a consideration. .

[Ace of Pop]

Re Rim Change.. Google.. Wheel City.USA.. Recon with your contacts and their superb range of Wheels and Lo Prices it may be worth You importing.Never seen a place like it.They have new and swaps from new rides,never used...Spent 30 Mins mooching, its an Aladins Cave.!!.

[casualbiker]

Do you know if ceramic film is GPS friendly and if so, does it come in 'clear' for the front windshield?

It doesn't come in absolute clear, no, but the Huper Optik 70% grade isn't too dark for a windshield:

http://huperoptikcorp.com/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%9F%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%A1/

What's the cost for doing the whole car in this film?

[Ace of Pop]

That's when you find out the rubbish they put on as a Freebe is worth as much as the free Mats. Ask for a film upgrade allowance and they look petrified.. It's fun...

[IMHO]

Do you know if ceramic film is GPS friendly and if so, does it come in 'clear' for the front windshield?

It doesn't come in absolute clear, no, but the Huper Optik 70% grade isn't too dark for a windshield:

http://huperoptikcorp.com/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%9F%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%A1/

What's the cost for doing the whole car in this film?

Prices vary car by car:

http://huperoptikcorp.com/%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%9F%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%96%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%8C/

[JAS21]

Mr IMOH said ... If de-orange-peeling and glass coating selected areas of the paintwork counts as a mod, well, I'm half way done on that too.

I have a friend who runs his detailing business weekends only. He does a fantastic job but 'charges' considerably more than 'so called detailers'. I think that he had done quite a large percentage of all the Farrari cars in Thailand.

He tells me that de-orange-peeling takes some while ... it can take most of a day to do one panel (I was going to ask him to do mine but not now I know the effort involved). Also it, on average, removes about 20% of the total clear coat. Orange Peel actually is a protector. Glass coating will make it easier to remove the motorbike etc 'scuffs'. It won't stop chips though.

I did my 'inherited' daughters Fiesta with Eco7000 on Saturday ... Eco takes several days to cure so it is being kept undercover at present ... it looks ok.

Has anyone seen the Ford Everest Challenge in China ...the young lady on roller skates going under a long line of EVs ... the file that I have is 10Mbs ... I'll try and find the original file

And mine EV still hasn't come ... seller has just told me 'next week' but didn't say which next week!!

[IMHO]

Mr IMOH said ... If de-orange-peeling and glass coating selected areas of the paintwork counts as a mod, well, I'm half way done on that too.

I have a friend who runs his detailing business weekends only. He does a fantastic job but 'charges' considerably more than 'so called detailers'. I think that he had done quite a large percentage of all the Farrari cars in Thailand.

He tells me that de-orange-peeling takes some while ... it can take most of a day to do one panel (I was going to ask him to do mine but not now I know the effort involved). Also it, on average, removes about 20% of the total clear coat. Orange Peel actually is a protector. Glass coating will make it easier to remove the motorbike etc 'scuffs'. It won't stop chips though.

I did my 'inherited' daughters Fiesta with Eco7000 on Saturday ... Eco takes several days to cure so it is being kept undercover at present ... it looks ok.

Has anyone seen the Ford Everest Challenge in China ...the young lady on roller skates going under a long line of EVs ... the file that I have is 10Mbs ... I'll try and find the original file

And mine EV still hasn't come ... seller has just told me 'next week' but didn't say which next week!!

Yep, de-orange-peeling is hard work.

On the Everest, I got two doors about 50% done in a day, using the Carpro velvet pads and some Menzerna compounds along with my trusty old Meguiars dual action polisher. There are more aggressive pads (the Carpro denims) and more aggressive tools (rotary) that will get you there faster, but you'd better be 100% sure how thick the clear coat is before you start going that hard...

At this stage, I'm only feeling confident taking it down ~50% - I have a digital paint thickness gauge on it's way though which I hope tells me there's enough factory clear coat left to take it down some more

Unfortunately I didn't think it'd become a topic, so didn't take any before photos.. I only have this "half way there" photo:

Note that this has a layer of Wolfgang Fuzion on it, so I can still continue work on the orange peel later on.. I'm yet undecided whether or not I'll glass coat the sides, or just the hood/roof/bumper, and leave the sides with a wax layer - I still love the Fuzion look

[JAS21]

Mr IMOH said ... If de-orange-peeling and glass coating selected areas of the paintwork counts as a mod, well, I'm half way done on that too.

I have a friend who runs his detailing business weekends only. He does a fantastic job but 'charges' considerably more than 'so called detailers'. I think that he had done quite a large percentage of all the Farrari cars in Thailand.

He tells me that de-orange-peeling takes some while ... it can take most of a day to do one panel (I was going to ask him to do mine but not now I know the effort involved). Also it, on average, removes about 20% of the total clear coat. Orange Peel actually is a protector. Glass coating will make it easier to remove the motorbike etc 'scuffs'. It won't stop chips though.

I did my 'inherited' daughters Fiesta with Eco7000 on Saturday ... Eco takes several days to cure so it is being kept undercover at present ... it looks ok.

Has anyone seen the Ford Everest Challenge in China ...the young lady on roller skates going under a long line of EVs ... the file that I have is 10Mbs ... I'll try and find the original file

And mine EV still hasn't come ... seller has just told me 'next week' but didn't say which next week!!

Yep, de-orange-peeling is hard work.

On the Everest, I got two doors about 50% done in a day, using the Carpro velvet pads and some Menzerna compounds along with my trusty old Meguiars dual action polisher. There are more aggressive pads (the Carpro denims) and more aggressive tools (rotary) that will get you there faster, but you'd better be 100% sure how thick the clear coat is before you start going that hard...

At this stage, I'm only feeling confident taking it down ~50% - I have a digital paint thickness gauge on it's way though which I hope tells me there's enough factory clear coat left to take it down some more

Unfortunately I didn't think it'd become a topic, so didn't take any before photos.. I only have this "half way there" photo:

ev-op-half-done.jpg

Note that this has a layer of Wolfgang Fuzion on it, so I can still continue work on the orange peel later on.. I'm yet undecided whether or not I'll glass coat the sides, or just the hood/roof/bumper, and leave the sides with a wax layer - I still love the Fuzion look

Doing just those three areas is probably a good idea. I too am sort of going off glass coating ... pity as I have nearly 200ccs of Eco 7000 left. When I see the results my friend gets with just compound and wax, I just think wow. What thickness of clear coat did you find (a little over 100 microns?)... easy check the paint thickness under the bonnet itself and compare with external panels. If you half completed two doors in one day using just a Mequiars DA that is good going.

I looked at the ceramic website and they gave me the prices ... it's all in Thai so I will have to get Mrs JAS to enlighten me. Having said that I am quite happy with the 'semi ceramic' Lumina Special Series that I have on the truck ... but if yours is really 'cool' then I'll think again.

[IMHO]

Doing just those three areas is probably a good idea. I too am sort of going off glass coating ... pity as I have nearly 200ccs of Eco 7000 left. When I see the results my friend gets with just compound and wax, I just think wow. What thickness of clear coat did you find (a little over 100 microns?)... easy check the paint thickness under the bonnet itself and compare with external panels. If you half completed two doors in one day using just a Mequiars DA that is good going.

I looked at the ceramic website and they gave me the prices ... it's all in Thai so I will have to get Mrs JAS to enlighten me. Having said that I am quite happy with the 'semi ceramic' Lumina Special Series that I have on the truck ... but if yours is really 'cool' then I'll think again.

As with any last-step-product, the end result is totally dependant on the work that went into preparation - but in the case of glass, even more so, as it doesn't have any fillers at all, like most waxes/sealants do. If you don't spend the time on prep, a sealant/wax will give you a better end result.

In my experience, If you get the preparation right, glass gets you as a good a result as any sealant product, but on darker colors, a quality glaze followed by a high end wax just can't be beaten.. But wax doesn't give you the scratch resistance of glass, and of course you don't even bother comparing longevity (days vs years).

I'm not yet sure how thick the base and clear coat is that I'm working with.. the paint gauge is still in transit. At this stage, I've only aimed for reducing the orange peel, not eliminating it - I won't have the confidence to cut it any further without some readings.

Edited September 1, 2015 by IMHO

[JAS21]

Yes ... don't push your luck if you don't know the thickness! Anyway wouldn't you prefer to spend time around that nice pool and let someone else remove the orange peel!

Actually you can put this under glass coating so the company who makes it told me and my friend who recently visited Japan told me that using it is quite popular over there as it saves loads of time.

I actually used it on an old Mazda Lantis before glass coating ... it seems ok ... at present anyway.

[IMHO]

Yes ... don't push your luck if you don't know the thickness! Anyway wouldn't you prefer to spend time around that nice pool and let someone else remove the orange peel!

Actually you can put this under glass coating so the company who makes it told me and my friend who recently visited Japan told me that using it is quite popular over there as it saves loads of time.

New_CP501F.jpg

I actually used it on an old Mazda Lantis before glass coating ... it seems ok ... at present anyway.

Hehehe, no matter what, I'm still a car guy

The Echelon Zen Xero system uses this two-step system. On the EV, I'm trialling another 2-step coating from Kessho - so far, just the hood done, results inconclusive. I can say that their step-1 product was about as slick as fresh rubber though, even after full curing (OK, exaggeration - it was the opposite of slick though) - the 2nd step is absolutely necessary.

Edited September 1, 2015 by IMHO

[JAS21]

From Post 464 ...

With thanks to Mr Crossy ... who uploaded it for me ..cause I'm a duffer!! https://youtu.be/7kDsw_vGnag

Edited September 1, 2015 by JAS21

[Pomthai]

You guys seem to know a hell of a lot more about paint and coatings than me. What can be done to make white paint work look good or better? I've heard that not very much makes any real world difference.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Please don't say paint it black.

Edited September 1, 2015 by Pomthai

[luwahn]

Yep, de-orange-peeling is hard work.

On the Everest, I got two doors about 50% done in a day, using the Carpro velvet pads and some Menzerna compounds along with my trusty old Meguiars dual action polisher. There are more aggressive pads (the Carpro denims) and more aggressive tools (rotary) that will get you there faster, but you'd better be 100% sure how thick the clear coat is before you start going that hard...

At this stage, I'm only feeling confident taking it down ~50% - I have a digital paint thickness gauge on it's way though which I hope tells me there's enough factory clear coat left to take it down some more

Unfortunately I didn't think it'd become a topic, so didn't take any before photos.. I only have this "half way there" photo:

ev-op-half-done.jpg

Note that this has a layer of Wolfgang Fuzion on it, so I can still continue work on the orange peel later on.. I'm yet undecided whether or not I'll glass coat the sides, or just the hood/roof/bumper, and leave the sides with a wax layer - I still love the Fuzion look

That is one nice shine!!! Nothing outshines a well polished black vehicle - IMHO.

What is your thinking between using glass coat and wax-layer (Wolfgang Fuzion?)?

[IMHO]

You guys seem to know a hell of a lot more about paint and coatings than me. What can be done to make white paint work look good or better? I've heard that not very much makes any real world difference.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Please don't say paint it black.

The number one thing is to correct all paint defects first - i.e. remove any swirls/scratches/holograms - the number of times I've had people comment on "how great that wax/sealant/coating looks" when all I'd actually done is basic preparation is kinda funny

The bottom line is, the paint needs to look good all on it's own first.

For a white car, it's easy - glass coat it. You're simply not going to improve upon that, no matter how hard you try or how much you spend.

The ECO glass, and 8500 glass products previously mentioned are around 5H-6H on the hardness scale (that's compared to pencil lead hardness BTW), and will cost you around 1000 Baht to DIY. The Kessho coating system costs 4x that, the Echelon system 18x that - with seriously diminishing returns. I've had the 8500 on my pearl white Pajero Sport for over 2 years now (close to 3), and it's only now getting to the point where I'm thinking about re-coating some sections (front bumper, hood and the front edge of the roof - which bear the major brunt). Recommended.

Edited September 1, 2015 by IMHO

[casualbiker]

From Post 464 ...

With thanks to Mr Crossy ... who uploaded it for me ..cause I'm a duffer!!

That was cool!

[IMHO]

Yep, de-orange-peeling is hard work.

On the Everest, I got two doors about 50% done in a day, using the Carpro velvet pads and some Menzerna compounds along with my trusty old Meguiars dual action polisher. There are more aggressive pads (the Carpro denims) and more aggressive tools (rotary) that will get you there faster, but you'd better be 100% sure how thick the clear coat is before you start going that hard...

At this stage, I'm only feeling confident taking it down ~50% - I have a digital paint thickness gauge on it's way though which I hope tells me there's enough factory clear coat left to take it down some more

Unfortunately I didn't think it'd become a topic, so didn't take any before photos.. I only have this "half way there" photo:

ev-op-half-done.jpg

Note that this has a layer of Wolfgang Fuzion on it, so I can still continue work on the orange peel later on.. I'm yet undecided whether or not I'll glass coat the sides, or just the hood/roof/bumper, and leave the sides with a wax layer - I still love the Fuzion look

That is one nice shine!!! Nothing outshines a well polished black vehicle - IMHO.

What is your thinking between using glass coat and wax-layer (Wolfgang Fuzion?)?

At this stage, I still love the Fuzion, but I have to decide if I'm going to be prepared to spend a few hours on this car every 4-8 weeks to replenish a wax layer - considering other people will be driving it a lot more than I will.

My current thought process is to glass coat the front bumper, hood and roof (for durability/protection), but use a wax on the sides and back, where it's added 'pop' and wetness is most visible. That might change to glass all over after I see the marring from other drivers, and get sick of fixing it though

Edited September 1, 2015 by IMHO

[Ace of Pop]

If you Buy a Honda it comes with shiny paint included. No need to do anything

[IMHO]

If you Buy a Honda it comes with shiny paint included. No need to do anything

LOL, come on Ace. All new cars are shiny, and all come with factory supplied orange peel.

Some people don't mind it, some people don't like it - I'm in the latter group

[mogandave]

If you Buy a Honda it comes with shiny paint included. No need to do anything

LOL, come on Ace. All new cars are shiny, and all come with factory supplied orange peel.

Some people don't mind it, some people don't like it - I'm in the latter group

Orange peel goes away as you get older and your glasses get stronger...

That said, it seems (to me) to be a bigger problem since implementation of clear-coat systems.

[Ace of Pop]

You winding me up Dave. Just been over to look. Iced White Metalic. Hondas latest new one ,no Orange Peel whatsoever. I associate Peel with Cellulose Solid Paint from the mid 60,and with Valflash type Acrylics ,before 3Pack came out. Should have taken a Pic to prove there no Peel really.,but it's pissing down now.

[IMHO]

no Orange Peel whatsoever.

I do not believe it.