What Did You Do to Your Bike Today ?

[BBJ]

Fitted an oversized footbrake plate.  Fitting is a bit rough as the screw doesn't sit flush.  When my other foot works I'll modify it.

 

Edited April 21, 2021 by BBJ

[Kwarium]

On 4/20/2021 at 4:25 PM, Kwasaki said:Hope you don't mine me suggesting you check your fuel line and plugs from what you said earlier while you're waiting and other stuff switches are a nightmare sometimes. 

Ride to live. ????

All tips always appreciated, however in the interest of good science, I decided to do nothing until the new battery arrived. Wait, it arrived from Battery House in Bangkok on Lazada via Kerry in 24 hours! Unbelievable!

 

New battery at 13.1 volts, brand RR at just over 1/3 the cost of Yuasa. Bike fired right up and runs great. Bike charging at 14.2 volts, 14.4 at mid range revs. Battery reads 13.2 after a quick warm up.

 

Plugs are iridium and cleaned just a few months ago when I took the carbs apart and cleaned them. That would probably be barely 100 km.

 

21 year old bike has two issues: temp sensor seems to have gone south, no reading on the gauge. Carb cleaning fixed a slow return to idle issue, but it came back shortly after. Bad fuel in the tank? 

 

Need to go for a good long ride and see if the issue presents itself or is gone. Only road 20km today, but the bike idled fine afterwards. I make an effort to keep her topped up with bensine 95 all the time, but she has run a fair amount of gasohol now and again.

 

Bike starts, sounds and runs snappier, maybe the battery was getting weak in spite of battery tender. The extremely poor, barely running at full throttle condition was directly related to bad battery. Go figure.

 

<blush> I paniced as have never seen that happen before. 

 

Tips on testing the temperature sensor in the radiator? I pulled, checked and cleaned all fuses today.

 

K ????

 

 

 

[Kwarium]

Double post due to power outage south of Udon.

Edited April 21, 2021 by Kwarium

[Kwasaki]

13 hours ago, Kwarium said:

All tips always appreciated, however in the interest of good science, I decided to do nothing until the new battery arrived. Wait, it arrived from Battery House in Bangkok on Lazada via Kerry in 24 hours! Unbelievable!

 

New battery at 13.1 volts, brand RR at just over 1/3 the cost of Yuasa. Bike fired right up and runs great. Bike charging at 14.2 volts, 14.4 at mid range revs. Battery reads 13.2 after a quick warm up.

 

Plugs are iridium and cleaned just a few months ago when I took the carbs apart and cleaned them. That would probably be barely 100 km.

 

21 year old bike has two issues: temp sensor seems to have gone south, no reading on the gauge. Carb cleaning fixed a slow return to idle issue, but it came back shortly after. Bad fuel in the tank? 

 

Need to go for a good long ride and see if the issue presents itself or is gone. Only road 20km today, but the bike idled fine afterwards. I make an effort to keep her topped up with bensine 95 all the time, but she has run a fair amount of gasohol now and again.

 

Bike starts, sounds and runs snappier, maybe the battery was getting weak in spite of battery tender. The extremely poor, barely running at full throttle condition was directly related to bad battery. Go figure.

 

<blush> I paniced as have never seen that happen before. 

 

Tips on testing the temperature sensor in the radiator? I pulled, checked and cleaned all fuses today.

 

K ????

Thanks for getting back all sounds good and charging and your good to go.

 

My bike is 28 years old and my temp gauge reads but the sensor I am not to sure about so I'm going get a new one, there're a cheap part.

 

Always run mine on 91 E10 because the engine can, it's carbs that have to have gasohol resistant gaskets and 'O' rings.

If the is not used which is not case, I would drain the carbs.

 

A bike will run good with healthy batteries is necessary in many old bikes they part of the ICM circuit. 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 22, 2021 by Kwasaki
Dyslexia

[Covedian21]

On 10/9/2019 at 5:40 PM, papa al said:

What is that plumbing-fitting/ lamp thing?

Looks like an Isaan Turbo. to me. 

 

      I just changed my oil, using 20 W 40, once I was done I saw that Lazada sells Motul 3000 for only 200 baht per liter.

 

It's produced in Singapore. 

 

Next oil change will be with Motul 3000 20 W 50.

This country is just too hot to run thinner oil. 

 

 

 

What's Semi Synthetic? Half Mineral,. half Synthetic/

 

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/motul-3000-plus-20w50-semi-synthetic-i169244807.html

 

   What do the experts say to this oil for an 1100 twin? I know that there's much better Motul out there, but money is an issue. 

 

   

 

Edited April 22, 2021 by Covedian21

[Covedian21]

On 4/21/2021 at 11:25 AM, BBJ said:

Fitted an oversized footbrake plate.  Fitting is a bit rough as the screw doesn't sit flush.  When my other foot works I'll modify it.

 

Get well soon, sir. Not wanting to give you a headache, but that was my knee, done by a Thai doctor at a government hospital. 

[Kwasaki]

4 hours ago, Covedian21 said:

What do the experts say to this oil for an 1100 twin? I know that there's much better Motul out there, but money is an issue. 

Castrol 20 -40 Activ is common where I live will be fine in a twin at 130 for 800ml a bottle.

I need 5 bottles for my bike.

[Covedian21]

28 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

Castrol 20 -40 Activ is common where I live will be fine in a twin at 130 for 800ml a bottle.

I need 5 bottles for my bike.

I rode 20 W 40 for the last 2.5 years, but through a good friend it turned out that 20 W 50 in Thailand seems to be the best choice.

 

      BTW, you pay too much, go to a store where all the shops buy their oil.

 

   I have a shop where I pay 105 baht for the 20 W 40 Castrol Aktive , but the one liter bottle, not only 800 ml.

 

   Here's the oil for 105 baht/litre. The same problem is with some shops that sell tires for Wifey's scooter. Some thick tires at the shop where I get my oil cheap, sold for 420 baht a tire, while other shops want between 800 to 960 baht.

 

   Considering the price you pay, I need three bottles a one liter, that's only 315 baht. Or 420 baht when i change the filter. 

 

    You pay 650 baht for an amount of oil, I'd pay only 420 baht!. Just saying. 

 

 

 

Here's Castrol  20 W 40 Aktiv for 89 baht a bottle:

 

  ( Down from 130 baht) https://www.lazada.co.th/products/castrol-activ-4t-20w-40-4-4-08-i1413788562-s3634476791.html?spm=a2o4m.searchlist.list.19.7c242a03fSLBfp&search=1

 

   ( Only eight bottles available. )

 

    

Edited April 22, 2021 by Covedian21

[Kwasaki]

2 hours ago, Covedian21 said:

I rode 20 W 40 for the last 2.5 years, but through a good friend it turned out that 20 W 50 in Thailand seems to be the best choice.

 

      BTW, you pay too much, go to a store where all the shops buy their oil.

 

   I have a shop where I pay 105 baht for the 20 W 40 Castrol Aktive , but the one liter bottle, not only 800 ml.

 

   Here's the oil for 105 baht/litre. The same problem is with some shops that sell tires for Wifey's scooter. Some thick tires at the shop where I get my oil cheap, sold for 420 baht a tire, while other shops want between 800 to 960 baht.

 

   Considering the price you pay, I need three bottles a one liter, that's only 315 baht. Or 420 baht when i change the filter. 

 

    You pay 650 baht for an amount of oil, I'd pay only 420 baht!. Just saying. 

 

Here's Castrol  20 W 40 Aktiv for 89 baht a bottle:

 

  ( Down from 130 baht) https://www.lazada.co.th/products/castrol-activ-4t-20w-40-4-4-08-i1413788562-s3634476791.html?spm=a2o4m.searchlist.list.19.7c242a03fSLBfp&search=1

 

   ( Only eight bottles available. )

That's good if you can get stuff near you cheap but cost are not to much of an issue for me because oil changes aren't that often.

 

There's lots experts on oil and it always a very controversial  subject.

If people ask me about oil I just tell em what I've have always done.

 

In Thailand  10 - 40 or 20 - 40 for my bike is the idea oil viscosity for my engine design flow rate, I have always used Castrol in motorcycles.

 

Up here in the boonies stuff is a bit dearer only because buy locally. 

My oil changes are 8000 miles (12,000 kilometres) and the engine with filter holds 3.2 litres.

I don't do anything like that sort of mileage so I will change the oil every 2 years and filter every year.

[Covedian21]

19 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

That's good if you can get stuff near you cheap but cost are not to much of an issue for me because oil changes aren't that often.

 

There's lots experts on oil and it always a very controversial  subject.

If people ask me about oil I just tell em what I've have always done.

 

In Thailand  10 - 40 or 20 - 40 for my bike is the idea oil viscosity for my engine design flow rate, I have always used Castrol in motorcycles.

 

Up here in the boonies stuff is a bit dearer only because buy locally. 

My oil changes are 8000 miles (12,000 kilometres) and the engine with filter holds 3.2 litres.

I don't do anything like that sort of mileage so I will change the oil every 2 years and filter every year.

Thanks, great post. I'm  a little bit more careful with my Misses, year 1995 and I had to learn basically all, from overhauling carbs to changing a defect starter system and finding the mistakes.

 

I've used Castrol Aktiv 20 W 40 only three days ago and will change it with Motul after around 3,000 to 5,000 km, dpending on the color

 

. Motul can stay in for about 10 K, I'd guess. I like the thickness of it and riding in the city here isn't good for a V twin, air cooled at all. 

 

Strange, my engine holds 3 liters, 3.1 with filter, i usually change the filter as well, but last time i left it in and only changed the oil. 

 

Riding 12,000 km is a lot in my eyes with the same oil. I change the oil of my pick up every 5,000 km but the engine has got 310,000 km and runs like a Swiss Clockwork.

 

   You're right, when it comes to oil and you talk to three People, they tell you 25 different stories what they believe is good.

 

What really annoys me is that I have no idea which gasoline has more than 10 % ethanol, the guys at the gas Station have no idea either.

 

   I buy 91 at ESSO and i believe it's good stuff, but I'm not in the mood to replace the O-rings of my carbs should ethanol destroy them.

 

I pulled the carbs twice and I guess you've seen that before without going into details now. 

 

Got the bike now for 2.5 years and only made 13,000 km on it. Many people don't have a bike anymore and riding alone isn't nice. 

 

  i just got in touch with our local MC and they'll call me when they ride out.

 

    What gasoline do you think is okay for a big bore carbureted  V engine? 

 

Ride safe and be careful, every day i almost get killed. This week, I'll buy a life insurance because it's obvious that i won't have good luck all my life considering the Thais drivers here. 

 

  Then the dogs, cats, stuff Trucks have lost and even buffaloes that cross the road alone. 

 

Sorry for the long rant. Cheers. 

 

    

 

 

 

 

Edited April 22, 2021 by Covedian21

[Kwasaki]

10 hours ago, Covedian21 said:

Thanks, great post. I'm  a little bit more careful with my Misses, year 1995 and I had to learn basically all, from overhauling carbs to changing a defect starter system and finding the mistakes.

 

I've used Castrol Aktiv 20 W 40 only three days ago and will change it with Motul after around 3,000 to 5,000 km, dpending on the color

 

. Motul can stay in for about 10 K, I'd guess. I like the thickness of it and riding in the city here isn't good for a V twin, air cooled at all. 

 

Strange, my engine holds 3 liters, 3.1 with filter, i usually change the filter as well, but last time i left it in and only changed the oil. 

 

Riding 12,000 km is a lot in my eyes with the same oil. I change the oil of my pick up every 5,000 km but the engine has got 310,000 km and runs like a Swiss Clockwork.

 

   You're right, when it comes to oil and you talk to three People, they tell you 25 different stories what they believe is good.

 

What really annoys me is that I have no idea which gasoline has more than 10 % ethanol, the guys at the gas Station have no idea either.

 

   I buy 91 at ESSO and i believe it's good stuff, but I'm not in the mood to replace the O-rings of my carbs should ethanol destroy them.

 

I pulled the carbs twice and I guess you've seen that before without going into details now. 

 

Got the bike now for 2.5 years and only made 13,000 km on it. Many people don't have a bike anymore and riding alone isn't nice. 

 

  i just got in touch with our local MC and they'll call me when they ride out.

 

    What gasoline do you think is okay for a big bore carbureted  V engine? 

 

Ride safe and be careful, every day i almost get killed. This week, I'll buy a life insurance because it's obvious that i won't have good luck all my life considering the Thais drivers here. 

 

  Then the dogs, cats, stuff Trucks have lost and even buffaloes that cross the road alone. 

 

Sorry for the long rant. Cheers. 

You can rant on here about proper bikes as much as you want it gets scoot boring otherwise. ????

 

You've lost me I thought you had a year 2000 CB600F which normally would be serviced at 8000 miles / 12000 kilos for oil & filter or 1 year,  standard plugs changed at 8000 miles / 12000 kilos everything else inspected and maintained.

 

Many later Motorcycle model these days have different and shorter mileage / kilos shedules. 4k & 6k intervals.

 

If I understand you have a 1995 air-cooled V twin as well as the Hornet with high mileage so full synthetic oil would be a waste. 

 

Unless you say what the bike is I can't help much,  many old Carb bikes since 1992 had hoses,   'O'ring and gaskets which were ethanol resistant. 

Non sure about Esso 91 but PTT 91 is E10 which I use in my 1993 bike with no problem.

 

As for riding for me Thailand safer than England unless you ride in places like Bangkok of course.

Whenever I ride out on road trips or 3/4 day trips with my friend we always say " Right you ready to dance with the devil " . ???? ????

 

[Kwasaki]

Apologies getting people mixed up here. ????????????

 

If you want my help I need year make model etc,  I know there's a lot of help out on internet but it can be very confusing with so many different opinions.

 

I miss some of the guys here who have left they were very knowledgeable.

Edited April 23, 2021 by Kwasaki

[Kwarium]

6 hours ago, Kwasaki said:

Apologies getting people mixed up here. ????????????

 

If you want my help I need year make model etc,  I know there's a lot of help out on internet but it can be very confusing with so many different opinions.

 

I miss some of the guys here who have left they were very knowledgeable.

Thats me with the 2000 Hornet CB600F. Running like a top after new battery.

 

I just lost a long rambling post about all the years commuting in Bangkok, being an alumni of the Super Four grey bike club, 5,000 km oil and filter changes, spending weekends maintaining and polishing, etc. 

 

Be thankful you didn’t get stuck reading all that!

 

Cheers! Ride safe!

Edited April 23, 2021 by Kwarium
Lost long post... ipad or fat fingers?

[Kwarium]

22 hours ago, Covedian21 said:

Thanks, great post. I'm  a little bit more careful with my Misses, year 1995 and I had to learn basically all, from overhauling carbs to changing a defect starter system and finding the mistakes.

 

I've used Castrol Aktiv 20 W 40 only three days ago and will change it with Motul after around 3,000 to 5,000 km, dpending on the color

 

. Motul can stay in for about 10 K, I'd guess. I like the thickness of it and riding in the city here isn't good for a V twin, air cooled at all. 

 

Strange, my engine holds 3 liters, 3.1 with filter, i usually change the filter as well, but last time i left it in and only changed the oil. 

 

Riding 12,000 km is a lot in my eyes with the same oil. I change the oil of my pick up every 5,000 km but the engine has got 310,000 km and runs like a Swiss Clockwork.

 

   You're right, when it comes to oil and you talk to three People, they tell you 25 different stories what they believe is good.

 

What really annoys me is that I have no idea which gasoline has more than 10 % ethanol, the guys at the gas Station have no idea either.

 

   I buy 91 at ESSO and i believe it's good stuff, but I'm not in the mood to replace the O-rings of my carbs should ethanol destroy them.

 

I pulled the carbs twice and I guess you've seen that before without going into details now. 

 

Got the bike now for 2.5 years and only made 13,000 km on it. Many people don't have a bike anymore and riding alone isn't nice. 

 

  i just got in touch with our local MC and they'll call me when they ride out.

 

    What gasoline do you think is okay for a big bore carbureted  V engine? 

 

Ride safe and be careful, every day i almost get killed. This week, I'll buy a life insurance because it's obvious that i won't have good luck all my life considering the Thais drivers here. 

 

  Then the dogs, cats, stuff Trucks have lost and even buffaloes that cross the road alone. 

 

Sorry for the long rant. Cheers. 

 

    

 

 

 

 

I have been using Motul 3100 Gold 15w-50 in my 2000 CB600F Hornet 4 cylinder for maybe 15 years. It is semi-synthetic and runs just under 300 Bt/ltr. I also think the ‘50’ should give best protection in the heat with spirited riding and long traffic lights in Bangkok. Oil and filter changes about 5,000 km for me. I find the oil is still slippery feeling between thumb and finger then, but less so at higher mileages. Black color doesn’t bother me as it is just carbon residue from those 4 fires burning in there!

 

I now see Motul has a 5100 10w-50 semi synthetic oil which is esther based. Cost is 299bt vs 285Bt for the 3100 I use now. It seems it should be a higher quality oil, without getting into the crazy prices of pure synthetic, which I don’t need anyway. 

 

I may run it 1/2 and 1/2 with the 3100 I have on the shelf. 

 

I change filters every oil change, never heard of changing the filter but not the oil. Just bought two filters on Lazad delivered for 169 Bt. (84.5 Bth each! Authentic Sunwa, also fit HD.) 

 

Ride safe! Mask up!

[Kwarium]

On 4/22/2021 at 3:39 PM, Covedian21 said:

Looks like an Isaan Turbo. to me. 

 

      I just changed my oil, using 20 W 40, once I was done I saw that Lazada sells Motul 3000 for only 200 baht per liter.

 

It's produced in Singapore. 

 

Next oil change will be with Motul 3000 20 W 50.

This country is just too hot to run thinner oil. 

 

 

 

What's Semi Synthetic? Half Mineral,. half Synthetic/

 

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/motul-3000-plus-20w50-semi-synthetic-i169244807.html

 

   What do the experts say to this oil for an 1100 twin? I know that there's much better Motul out there, but money is an issue. 

 

   

 

All of the information I see on Motul 3000 says it is their basic pure mineral oil, not semi-synthetic. It meets only SJ standards which are of course now up to SN. Could it be the seller has added the semi-synthetic wording?

 

I use the 3100 Gold Semi-synthetic, but they now have 5100 Esther based, which means it is more synthetic than 3100? Going back to standards, 3100 meets SM, but 5100 meets SN. 

 

Oil company marketing speak makes me tired! Technosynthese! Righty Oh then! LOL!

 

 

[Kwasaki]

12 hours ago, Kwarium said:

All of the information I see on Motul 3000 says it is their basic pure mineral oil, not semi-synthetic. It meets only SJ standards which are of course now up to SN. Could it be the seller has added the semi-synthetic wording?

 

I use the 3100 Gold Semi-synthetic, but they now have 5100 Esther based, which means it is more synthetic than 3100? Going back to standards, 3100 meets SM, but 5100 meets SN. 

 

Oil company marketing speak makes me tired! Technosynthese! Righty Oh then! LOL!

 

I don't like getting into oil talk to much if someone is happy about what they use then that's fine. 

 

I don't like wasting money and so many oil makers and there oils are so advanced these days.

 

Funny bike stories :-

I used to service many types of bikes in UK, my 92 fireblade in UK which I had for 12 years went on to use secondhand oil. ???? 

This was because a friend who had many different s/h bikes wouldn't listen to me but finally  bought a fireblade, he would bring me the perfect semi-synthetic oil which was what I used, it had a picture of a Honda fireblade on the label of the plastic 5 litre container. 

Him being OCD ???? insisted the oil and oil filter was changed at 3000 miles, it then became my oil it came out sooo clean. ????

[Kwarium]

5 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

I don't like getting into oil talk to much if someone is happy about what they use then that's fine. 

 

I don't like wasting money and so many oil makers and there oils are so advanced these days.

<snip>

Yep, ‘best oil’ is right in there with ‘best fuel’ in my book. My opinion has always been that I splurged a bit with Motul oil, at 285 Bt / ltr. plenty pricey. It is entirely possible that there is nothing more than marketing at play. Who knows if it is actually semi-synthetic? Motul websites are full of marketing speak and low on facts. At least it’s French... (not. Made in Vietnam.) ????

 

While I’m spending about 300 a liter, the 5100 Motul seems like 1 rung up the ladder, if one believes thar “esther based” on the label makes it better oil. Better being improved lubrication, cooling, and longivity of wear protection. I have time to experiment a bit.

 

With fuel, we have nothing other than marketing to go by. I have read various white papers over the years explaining why Esso, Caltex, Shell etc. all have the best additive packages. I have felt better fuel and worse fuel in my Hornet, but never any consistency leading me to stick with a brand. PTT may be best most often due to high turnover and resulting freshness. I try to keep 95 bensine (non gasahol) in the tanks of my 3 bikes, as they sit more often than not these days! 1 is a 20 year old Kawasaki Kaze and 1 is a 9 year old FI Wave 125 with side car.

 

I’m thinking of riding my Hornet in to the Honda big bike dealer to see if they have a temp sensor that will fit. Do you have a better suggestion?

 

cheers. 

[Kwasaki]

3 minutes ago, Kwarium said:

I’m thinking of riding my Hornet in to the Honda big bike dealer to see if they have a temp sensor that will fit. Do you have a better suggestion?

I'm going to get a rad temperature sensor sometime on-line there a pretty much Standard item and easily found for Honda bikes and many others.

 

The nearest Honda big bike dealer to me is about as useless as a fart in a spacesuit. ????

[Kwarium]

20 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

I'm going to get a rad temperature sensor sometime on-line there a pretty much Standard item and easily found for Honda bikes and many others.

 

The nearest Honda big bike dealer to me is about as useless as a fart in a spacesuit. ????

After a quick search, the sensor in the radiator that I was thinking of replacing is apparently the radiator fan sensor, which is working fine.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-Fan-Thermo-Switch-for-Honda-CB500-CBF600S-CBR125-CBF600-CRF250X-CB500S-/264744566549

 

I was adjusting lights one evening and had the bike running for awhile and the fan came on normally. My problem is the gauge in the clocks doesn’t move at all. Different issue? Will have to look up wiring diagram, may have it on my pc somewhere.

[Kwarium]

I visited my local Honda Big Wing on a hunch as I was heading an hour away to get new tires mounted and balanced on my Hornet rims. Glad I stopped as they did the job quickly and professionally using an italian made balancing machine. Free iced coffee in the cafe while waiting. Saved me a two hour round trip!

 

Bonus, they had bar ends in stock that fit. I had lost one along the road somewhere.

[Kwasaki]

15 minutes ago, Kwarium said:

After a quick search, the sensor in the radiator that I was thinking of replacing is apparently the radiator fan sensor, which is working fine.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Radiator-Fan-Thermo-Switch-for-Honda-CB500-CBF600S-CBR125-CBF600-CRF250X-CB500S-/264744566549

 

I was adjusting lights one evening and had the bike running for awhile and the fan came on normally. My problem is the gauge in the clocks doesn’t move at all. Different issue? Will have to look up wiring diagram, may have it on my pc somewhere.

The sensor for the dash temp gauge is at the thermostat position, if it's not that sometimes a dirty earth connection.

[Kwarium]

38 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

The sensor for the dash temp gauge is at the thermostat position, if it's not that sometimes a dirty earth connection.

Right you are! I used to know that, but forgotI pulled the cap off that connection and it looks pristine. Can’t see where it goes, in the direction of the fuses on the left side though. Got me thinking it may go through the headlight on it’s way to the clocks. Wonder if I disturbed it while adding LED driving lights awhile back. 

 

Worst case, I need to pull the clocks apart at some point as I have 1 or two bulbs not working. Not looking forward to that task.

 

Thanks Kwasaki!

[Kwasaki]

9 minutes ago, Kwarium said:

Right you are! I used to know that, but forgotI pulled the cap off that connection and it looks pristine. Can’t see where it goes, in the direction of the fuses on the left side though. Got me thinking it may go through the headlight on it’s way to the clocks. Wonder if I disturbed it while adding LED driving lights awhile back. 

 

Worst case, I need to pull the clocks apart at some point as I have 1 or two bulbs not working. Not looking forward to that task.

 

Thanks Kwasaki!

At least you can get to yours they don't usually go wrong most of the time it's bad grounded wore connection on older bikes. 

 

I know what you mean about wiring dash board circuits. ????

 

 

[Kwarium]

5 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

At least you can get to yours they don't usually go wrong most of the time it's bad grounded wore connection on older bikes. 

 

I know what you mean about wiring dash board circuits. ????

 

 

Ah yes, the real reason crotch rockets have all that plastic! Hides the innards. ???? 

 

Mine is all jammed into the round headlight housing. I need to wear my full face helmet when releasing the screws holding it shut! ????

[papa al]

4 hours ago, Kwarium said:

“esther based” on the label makes it better oil. Better being improved lubrication, cooling, and longivity of wear protection.

esther

lubrication √; better.

cooling √; better.

longevity, less. [denatures in presence of water]

wear protection √; better.

SoA for jets & 2T.

//////

If you want best for bikey,

Shell Ultra 100% syn or Amsiol ,

both avail at ~B300/lit
is what you want, boys.

Love you long time.

But yea, all are good ,

even cheaper blends.

Up to you.

????

[Kwasaki]

16 minutes ago, papa al said:

esther

lubrication √; better.

cooling √; better.

longevity, less. [denatures in presence of water]

wear protection √; better.

SoA for jets & 2T.

//////

If you want best for bikey,

Shell Ultra 100% syn or Amsiol ,

both avail at ~B300/lit
is what you want, boys.

Love you long time.

But yea, all are good ,

even cheaper blends.

Up to you.

????

Yeah cheaper and better Castrol. ????

[Kwarium]

Today I did an oil and filter change on the CB600F Hornet. Special Kwarium formula ‘not available in stores’, or on TV for that matter!

 

I had my regular Motul 3100 Gold ‘Techno-marketing-speak-synthese’ 15w50 on the shelf. Semi-synthetic so they say. I have had good performance and longivity from it for years, even with daily hard Bangkok suburb riding.

 

I also wanted to try Motul 5100 ‘Techno-marketing-speak-synthese’ 10w-50 which is esther based semi-synthetic, so they say.

 

Two liters of each and a new Sunwa filter and good to go for a couple of years. I don’t commute any more and barely get a chance for long rides. I am not a believer in oil needs changed at 12 months just because... 

 

Btw, the 5100 oil pour was a thing of real beauty, lovely golden and nearly thick as honey; nectar of the gods stuff! The 3100 was a nice color, but runnier than fake maple syrup, in comparison.

 

The old 3100 (nearly two years in the engine) looked pretty dark, but the golden color was still detectible. Passed the ‘thick and slippery test’ when pinched between thumb and forefinger. No sediment or gunk (or god forbid, metal) on the magnetic oil plug or in the bottom of the drain pan.

 

Happy bike, happy life!

 

[Tagged]

Sunday

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Kwasaki]

1 hour ago, Kwarium said:

I also wanted to try Motul 5100 ‘Techno-marketing-speak-synthese’ 10w-50 which is esther based semi-synthetic, so they say.

0w & 5w & 10w & 15w are for cold climates but OK to use anywhere.

The W numbers are winter centigrade for the oil to work in. 

40 or 50 is viscosity.

The recommended oil type for an engine is always good enough 

 

[canthai55]

10W30 - 10 weight at 0 F - 30 weight at 212 F