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Posted

We hired a guy to relocate our washer and dryer, and he abandoned the electric portion after taking it apart and relocating the panel.

 

I am trying to get it back together and have some questions. The panel provides power to:

1. Front-loading washer

2. Dryer

3. Shower water heater

 

This box was installed and worked fine for about six months before we tried to have it moved.

 

It looks to me like the double breaker is working as a main breaker feeding the two single breakers via the connecting strip on the top. Is this correct?

 

If so, the hot wire in should come up through the inside leg of the double breaker. Is this correct?

 

One bar on top is for neutral, and the other is for earth, correct?

 

I am not sure if the outside leg of the double breaker should be for the shower, and one of the single breakers for the washer and the other for the dryer, or if the outside leg should be left empty and one of the singles used for the washer and dryer and the other for the shower-heater.

 

Will the double breaker trip if the combined load on both legs is 32 amps?

 

Any recommendations on how best to set this up?

 

All the wire is 4mm^2

 

Thanks!IMG_0024.JPGIMG_0025.JPG

 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, RideJocky said:

To be clear, I think the wires were moved around inside the box during the relocation...

 

They almost certainly were as the left hand pole of the 2 pole breaker has no feed to it and is currently doing nothing. Why you would have a 2 pole breaker as there is no neutral in the box is strange

 

1 hour ago, RideJocky said:

It looks to me like the double breaker is working as a main breaker feeding the two single breakers via the connecting strip on the top. Is this correct?

Yes.

1 hour ago, RideJocky said:

One bar on top is for neutral, and the other is for earth, correct?

That isn't how it's being used at the moment but usually yes.

The line connection on the right bar is superfluous.

 

Its a bit of a mess with no visible neutral that should be on the left of the 2 pole breaker.

 

Posted
That isn't how it's being used at the moment but usually yes.

The line connection on the right bar is superfluous.

 

Its a bit of a mess with no visible neutral that should be on the left of the 2 pole breaker.

 

 

 

Both L & N were red. There is no power going to the panel now.

Posted

The double breaker is the "main" breaker for the other two circuit breakers.  If no power to the box, why is there a wire going into the bottom of the main breaker?  And where does it come from?

 

Where will the power come from if you activate the box?

 

Edit:  Yes, the main breaker is a C-curve 32 amp breaker.

Posted

After enlarging the photo, my guess is that the 3 wires coming in at the top are L, N, E from your primary box.  The L should be connected to a breaker in the primary box.  If that is the case, then the N should be connected to the left side of the main (double) breaker and NOT going directly to the power point.  You would want to verify that with a meter before switching things on.

Posted
The double breaker is the "main" breaker for the other two circuit breakers.  If no power to the box, why is there a wire going into the bottom of the main breaker?  And where does it come from?
 
Where will the power come from if you activate the box?
 
Edit:  Yes, the main breaker is a C-curve 32 amp breaker.


The wires going into the box have been cut, but they originated from a breaker downstairs in another sub panel.

My plan is to rewire the panel, then splice it back in.

Assuming the L & N should go to the bottom of the double breaker:

32A single breaker should feed the shower with 4mm black wire

16A single breaker should feed the receptacles for washer and dryer with 2.5mm black wire

N leg of the double breaker should feed the N bar with 4mm white

4mm white wire should go from N bar to shower

2.5mm white should go from N bar to receptacles

4mm green should go to the earth bar, with 4mm green going to shower, 2.5 mm green going to receptacles and to the stud in the bottom of the panel

Does that all sound correct?
Posted
Looks good to me.  [emoji41]
 
Please confirm the ground/earth green wire actually connects to ground/earth at some point.


The ground looks to be connected. I have a plug-checker that I hope will confirm this once it’s wired up...

Thanks!
Posted

Regarding color:  Those appear to be 4mm^2 red.  (?)  If so, you could convert them to black/white by using black/white tape at the ends.  No need to run new wire.

  • Like 1
Posted
Regarding color:  Those appear to be 4mm^2 red.  (?)  If so, you could convert them to black/white by using black/white tape at the ends.  No need to run new wire.


Thanks for the tip. The only “new” wire I’m going to run are the short pieces in the panel and from the panel to the shower, as it is too short and has been cut.


Posted
Also, try to shove that L incomer into the breaker a bit more.  That's too much wire exposed for my liking.


Thanks, I’m planning to rewire it, and will make sure the fit-up is much better.
Posted

5mm would be my guess. The diameter of the wire is 2.26mm (if my math is correct) Do you plan on using it for something?

Also, it looks like that breaker is cracked. Maybe not an issue but should probably be careful when re-seating the L.

Posted
5mm would be my guess. The diameter of the wire is 2.26mm (if my math is correct) Do you plan on using it for something?
Also, it looks like that breaker is cracked. Maybe not an issue but should probably be careful when re-seating the L.


I had planned to tie a ground to it.

The plastic on the breaker does not seem to be cracked, the housing splits on that centerline. I may crazy-glue it back together once I pull it out.

Posted
16 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

But, that's what the ground bar/buss is for. Whatever. ????

 

It is an essential safety ground for the metalwork of the board, the ground bus does not appear to connect to the casework..

  • Like 1
Posted
41 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

It is an essential safety ground for the metalwork of the board, the ground bus does not appear to connect to the casework..

Oh.  That doesn't make sense to me. But there you go. 

Posted
Oh.  That doesn't make sense to me. But there you go. 


Apparently you were right, while it didn’t look like it, the ground bar is screwed directly to the box via the center screw.


IMG_0040.JPGIMG_0041.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, RideJocky said:

Guess it’ll work ‘till it doesn’t...

 

It will probably be just fine. You may want to check it still indicates correctly by wiring up a "faulty" outlet.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
 
It will probably be just fine. You may want to check it still indicates correctly by wiring up a "faulty" outlet.
 


Works fine on a incorrectly wired receptacle, so I imagine it’s okay, although probably not a good idea to leave it plugged in fo a long time....
  • Like 1

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