Old single living in Udon Thani

[georgegeorgia]

I must say I love Udon Thani the city that is , I must say it's been 2016 since I last been there so things have changed I guess 

 

I used to like that Irish pub forget the name

I loved sitting in the big park there too

But I'm thinking what would life be like there for a retired SINGLE farang , living say in a condo in Udon Thani close to everything walk to gym , transport,bars , supermarkets, etc 

 

 

Are there any latest modern Condo's built ?

 

Compare it to Pattaya 

*Cheaper , possible,I'm not sure 

 

*People friendlier , yes do you think?

 

*Better life , negative some aspects no beach of course if your into that I'm not 

Other positives?

 

[owl sees all]

Wonderful place Udon.

 

Feed the fish at Prajek Park.

Running around Nong Bua.

Sculpture art around the Rain Station.

The Chinese quarter - the carvings and the kois.

Informative museum.

Special 'electrical massage' behind the fish breeding centre - green door.

One of the tallest trees in Isaan.

Feed the pigeons in Prajek Park.

Dinosaur experience in Prajek Park.

Top notch shopping at Makro, Big C, Lotus Fresh, 46 x 7/11s.

Accommodating ladies - many Lao fillies.

Interesting Vietnam quarter.

International airport.

Easy travel to Nong Khai and Khon Kaen or Ban Dung.

 

There used to be a chess club at the 'Bookshop'.

 

Bam Bam is scheduled to visit the city in 2025.

 

[KhunLA]

As much as I was happy to leave UT area, around the same time OP did, have to admit, if forced to live in a NE metro, that would be one of, if not the best.

 

Can't imagine things have gotten better, unless soi samphan has been revamped and most bars closed 

 

Traffic & pollution was horrendous (rush hours & cool season), and why we lived out of town (15+ kms) to avoid.   Enjoyed our daytime visits (1000-1400 hrs), but avoided mostly, unless visiting sis at night market.

 

Was actually there Aug 2022 to get rid of last RE holding, and only stayed to 2 days required to do that.   Couldn't wait to leave, and didn't notice much of a change.  Didn't even bother visiting anyone aside from family or bother with old haunts, that we frequented when living in the area.  Only 1 still open, I think.

 

Didn't notice any new condo complexes, as they went a bit silly, and an over abundance of empty ones when there.   

[rct99q]

Currently live outside of Nong Khai and we go to UT probably twice a month. I suppose the only thing I can add is the traffic is horrendous. I drive around a lot and UT is just one of those places I dislike. However we like to go to the Central Plaza and the movie theater so have to make the effort. 

 

Price wise. Not sure about others, but prices for everything around here where I am are going up, up, and up, much like the rest of the world. 

 

As wife and I have our own house & land do not pay rent. I was just recently in Calgary Canada and rental property is now averaging $2,000 a month! That's roughly 50,000baht. Just on rental accommodation. Crazy world. I doubt we spend 30000baht a month now. 

 

Hope it all works out.

[Sharp]

Lumpini Condominiums 

 

Next to UD Town 

[beautifulthailand99]

8 hours ago, owl sees all said:

Wonderful place Udon.

 

Feed the fish at Prajek Park.

Running around Nong Bua.

Sculpture art around the Rain Station.

The Chinese quarter - the carvings and the kois.

Informative museum.

Special 'electrical massage' behind the fish breeding centre - green door.

One of the tallest trees in Isaan.

Feed the pigeons in Prajek Park.

Dinosaur experience in Prajek Park.

Top notch shopping at Makro, Big C, Lotus Fresh, 46 x 7/11s.

Accommodating ladies - many Lao fillies.

Interesting Vietnam quarter.

International airport.

Easy travel to Nong Khai and Khon Kaen or Ban Dung.

 

There used to be a chess club at the 'Bookshop'.

 

Bam Bam is scheduled to visit the city in 2025.

 

Well that's the first morning sorted then !

[jingjai9]

Within the last few months it seems construction has picked up in Udon and many businesses that closed during COVID once again have tenants. A new Makro just opened up on December 27th on the Ring Road not too far from the sports college and it looks like a fresh market next door to Makro will be opening soon. 

 

There are a few new bars opening on and around Soi Samphang. There is the new Library Bar near Dawan Daeng that looks to be a notch or two above the small bars on Samphang.

 

Udon is steadily growing and because of this traffic congestion and dirty air of course increase. Udon will probably continue to grow steadily in the next couple of years. The big boost will come when the rail system which is slated to go from Singapore to China and pass through Khon Kaen, Udon and Nong Khai and then on to Laos is completed. This should bring much prosperity to Isaan. I am not sure how close the rail system will come to Udon. If the rail system runs through or near Amphur Muang,Udon, I would think the city will grow by leaps and bounds by the late 2020s.

 

Udon lacks a tourist destination. Since there are no beaches or mountains to rival Phuket or Chiang Mai, this limits the number of tourists. The Central Plaza area picks up a few tourists who will spend a day or two in Udon on their way to Laos, but nothing significant. If you are in Udon on a daily basis you have to really look around to spot tourists under 30 years of age and you will rarely see western women on a typical day out.

 

I have heard rumors about the building of an Isaan cultural center in the Udon area, but who knows whether or not the rumors contain a kernel of truth.

 

I have lived and worked in the Muang district on and off for nearly 20 years. Udon attracts me as it is not too big or small of a city. It has many farang amenities, is relatively safe, not overly expensive and you can have a good night out if that is what you choose. There is an ex-pat community rooted here that dates back some 40-odd years. At one time Udon province's VFW chapter had nearly 100 members, but many of them have died in recent years.  It is not as exciting as Pattaya or Phuket might be on a night out, but then it does not have the problems that come along with thousands of tourists hanging around. The people in this area have a reputation for being friendly.  

 

That is my take on Udon. Others I hope will have more to add.

[findlay13]

Udon lost it's charm about the time Central was built and the old Soi Farang closed IMO.The surrounding  streets their bars were closed too. Lots of good food at the likes of Steve's bar and the German restaurant/bakery  in the street behind Robinsons.I used to spend lots of time in Udon . It used to be so easy to ride  a motorbike around. Still a nice enough place to visit [or it was when I was last there maybe 10 + yrs ago] but Soi Sampan etc. never had the same vibe IMO and the traffic was horrible.Having said that, ALL Isan has changed.

This is quite trip down memory lane for me.LOL

[KhunLA]

30 minutes ago, findlay13 said:

Lots of good food at the likes of Steve's bar and the German restaurant/bakery  in the street behind Robinsons.

This is quite trip down memory lane for me.LOL

Dieter's, I think his wife was still doing the bakery part for a while and even meals out of the house, off west side of ring rd.

 

Steve (original & Mali) had the T-Bar after leaving Irish Clock.  May have sold that, and moved again to different place, possible down the street from.

 

 

[KhunBENQ]

12 hours ago, owl sees all said:

Top notch shopping at Makro, Big C, Lotus Fresh, 46 x 7/11s.

You forgot Villa and TOPS at Central which are MY two most important spots.

That western food shop "Cheese 2 Meat You" has some interesting stuff too.

[Barnet1900]

I've never lived in Udon so I can't comment on that. Might be the best place on earth for all I know.

 

Comparing to Pattaya is one extreme to the other. Like comparing a donkey to a lizard. Apart from traffic, size, ex-pat facilities, they're very different. The point I'd make is, that there might be other places in between that offer the best of both worlds. For example, places like  Rayong, Sri Racha, Bang Saray, or other towns close enough to Pattaya for a day at the beach, night out, decent food etc. yet a million miles away, culture wise from the things many people choose not to live there for. 

 

I know it's slightly off-topic but I'd guess there are a fair few members on here that could recommend the same, possibly nearer to UT, if that's where you're set on. Either way, I'd advise a little more research than just those two.

 

Best of luck.

[nobodysfriend]

On 1/5/2024 at 12:55 AM, georgegeorgia said:

But I'm thinking what would life be like there for a retired SINGLE farang , living say in a condo in Udon Thani

 

Better not replace old trees ...

If you're ok with where you live , arrange yourself ... times are changing everywhere , many times not for the better ...

 

[rickudon]

I don't find the traffic congestion in Udon a problem. And please tell me a city that doesn't have any congestion, in the world. Outside of commuting hours, i can get anywhere in Udon in under 30 minutes, and most places in 15 minutes. Just need to learn the choke points and avoid if possible. Actually congestion now somewhat better than 10 years ago, due to the upgraded ring road, more traffic lights and dare i say it, Thais actually driving better! Parking can be an issue in town centre.

Pollution also improved. Most roads now concrete/tarmac, people actually sometimes have gardens rather than bare yards, so less dust. AQI next to main roads is high, but get 500 metres away a lot better. Also less crop burning. I did buy an air filter about 5 years ago after a couple of smoky days, but have only used about twice in the last 2 years - you just don't need it.

Condos - as said, there was a surge of building after the big Bangkok floods, and 3 developments went up - and still have empty units ..... Plenty of cheap hotels and rooms for rent, these days nearly all have air conditioning etc., not expensive.

 

Night life not like it used to be - the average Udon expat is now a pensioner, many not into the bar scene, those who drank a lot die faster! Bangkok hospital has expanded onto soi Samphan, less bars, these days. UDtown is the main entertainment/shopping area outside of Central, now more under cover, and quite pleasant area. Violent crime, outside of domestic violence, is rare.

 

[KhunLA]

12 hours ago, rickudon said:

I don't find the traffic congestion in Udon a problem. And please tell me a city that doesn't have any congestion, in the world. Outside of commuting hours, i can get anywhere in Udon in under 30 minutes, and most places in 15 minutes. Just need to learn the choke points and avoid if possible. Actually congestion now somewhat better than 10 years ago, due to the upgraded ring road, more traffic lights and dare i say it, Thais actually driving better! Parking can be an issue in town centre.

Pollution also improved. Most roads now concrete/tarmac, people actually sometimes have gardens rather than bare yards, so less dust. AQI next to main roads is high, but get 500 metres away a lot better. Also less crop burning. I did buy an air filter about 5 years ago after a couple of smoky days, but have only used about twice in the last 2 years - you just don't need it.

Condos - as said, there was a surge of building after the big Bangkok floods, and 3 developments went up - and still have empty units ..... Plenty of cheap hotels and rooms for rent, these days nearly all have air conditioning etc., not expensive.

 

Night life not like it used to be - the average Udon expat is now a pensioner, many not into the bar scene, those who drank a lot die faster! Bangkok hospital has expanded onto soi Samphan, less bars, these days. UDtown is the main entertainment/shopping area outside of Central, now more under cover, and quite pleasant area. Violent crime, outside of domestic violence, is rare.

 

Sounds like things did improve a wee bit on a few things.  Like you, we lived outside of town, and enjoyed our daytime visits (non  rush hour).  For others, yes, Rick & myself know each other, and we've been over to Rick's a few times, fishing & sipping, well, me sipping, wife fishing.

 

On topic, I quite enjoyed my single time, in between relationships, simply meeting gals in normal life (non P4P) situations.  Quite easy enough for any single person if not an introvert, which certainly, nobody would accuse me of.

 

If living in the city area, within the ring rd, there is an extensive baht baht service for getting around, though if truly downtown, most thing are quite walkable, from the train station/night markets, to Nong PraJak Park, and soi to the left or right of that stroll.  No real need for a car, or even a MB, though the latter would be quite convenient.

 

Really is a good NE town to live in, if that's your choice.  I just prefer a closer surf, and hills to look at, and less congestion.   Which of course, would bore the hell out of most single people.

 

I remember when Lumpini Place (UT) condos went on sale, at the ฿1M mark, and good friend (JetDoc/Scott) bought one at Pattaya for about the same price.   So with that, it would be hard for me to justify living at UT vs other non NE options.  Same with Hua Hin area.   

 

There are choices, and folks need to explore them, to see what works, before settling in, financially anyway.   Single folks anyway, as those in relationships, then maybe not as many options.

[uttradit]

On 1/5/2024 at 8:29 PM, KhunLA said:

Dieter's, I think his wife was still doing the bakery part for a while and even meals out of the house, off west side of ring rd.

 

Steve (original & Mali) had the T-Bar after leaving Irish Clock.  May have sold that, and moved again to different place, possible down the street from.

 

 

Lots of cafes and good restaurants. I found the traffic ok. The city is underrated. Both Udon and Khon Kaen are decent cities. Enough western food in both cities. 

 

The park in Udon is nice to walk around. Restaurants nearby. UD food town is ok. Central Mall. Airport, train station.

 

Is it as good as Chiang Mai or Pattaya well probably not if you want more action but not bad. The people in Udon and Khon Kaen are more down to earth.

 

 

[uttradit]

On 1/10/2024 at 11:35 AM, KhunLA said:

Single folks anyway, as those in relationships, then maybe not as many options.

Not hard to find action there. I walked through the park and a woman hit on me, then saw my wife 10m back and apologised.

 

 

[uttradit]

On 1/5/2024 at 7:49 PM, findlay13 said:

Udon lost it's charm about the time Central was built and the old Soi Farang closed IMO.The surrounding 

The area around Central is pretty good. Cafes, restaurants, massage shops. Not sure what charm you speak ok.

[KhunLA]

3 minutes ago, uttradit said:

Not hard to find action there. I walked through the park and a woman hit on me, then saw my wife 10m back and apologised.

I quite enjoyed my single time there.

 

6 minutes ago, uttradit said:

Lots of cafes and good restaurants. I found the traffic ok. The city is underrated. Both Udon and Khon Kaen are decent cities. Enough western food in both cities. 

 

The park in Udon is nice to walk around. Restaurants nearby. UD food town is ok. Central Mall. Airport, train station.

 

Is it as good as Chiang Mai or Pattaya well probably not if you want more action but not bad. The people in Udon and Khon Kaen are more down to earth.

UT has lots of pluses.  Never warmed up to KK.

[uttradit]

Just now, KhunLA said:

I quite enjoyed my single time there.

 

UT has lots of pluses.  Never warmed up to KK.

KK is more spread out. Not as good for walking. After several visits I would probably give the edge to Udon because it's better for walking. Nong Khai has more charm than both though.  For a single guy I'd just go to Nong Khai first. Easy to visit others by train.

 

 

 

[Stanton681]

On 2/12/2024 at 5:20 PM, uttradit said:

KK is more spread out. Not as good for walking. After several visits I would probably give the edge to Udon because it's better for walking. Nong Khai has more charm than both though.  For a single guy I'd just go to Nong Khai first. Easy to visit others by train.

 

 

 

Definitely Nong Khai over Udon anyday in my opinion,but pricing can be higher there in some instances.

[NanLaew]

Udon's traffic, like most large towns and cities here, can be a nightmare during the Mon-Fri school hours and from late morning through late afternoon on weekends. When you've lived there a while, you know where these schools are during the week and you know where Central is on the weekend. Thus, the traffic gridlock is easily avoided. If you don't have school-age kids, Mon-Fri is easy; just relax at home. If one is blessed with a passion for mall trawling at weekends (or a partner that insists you mall trawl with her), then yes, you are out of luck. I do most all my shopping during the week and outwith the manic traffic hours. Start around 9 am and you're done by brunch time. Easy.

 

Udon Thani does have some nice parks with lakes that come with well-maintained walking and jogging tracks with bike lanes. I have a choice of four, all varying in length and which one I chose depends on how hungry I am for brunch (or guilty about riding the 'short' lake on consecutive days). Once again, if unencumbered with kids, one can get to these venues before the traffic picks up around 7 am and avoid that stress. By the time you're finished, so's the traffic.

 

As for shopping it's well served, especially in the imported stuff. Ten or twelve years ago, I could count on making two or three trips to Bangkok and Pattaya that would include stocking up on cheesy comestibles unavailable in Udon. I haven't had to do that since well before Covid. It's all here or, if it's not, they can get it in and if you're in a hurry, there's online plus lazada. Most all the foreign-owned imported food businesses scattered between Loei and Korat and those that are making pies, bread and other stuff are happy to accept online payment and send your desired foodtsuffs overnight by bus.

 

I don't miss the old 'farang alley' as I never went there but do recall the rather tawdry spectacle of foreigners in shorts and wife beaters perched on barstools, nursing bottles of beer and watching the passing locals watching them. Gripping stuff! It must have been great for those that had cut their Thailand teeth in Patpong and Pattaya before migrating with their chosen bed warmers to Isaan. Maybe more than great, probably even vitally important for them as they found themselves doggy-paddling in the deep end of Thailand's cultural pool that is Issan. Anyway, what's called Soi Sampan is where those that haven't been weaned yet tend to hang out nowadays, a stone's throw (as the crow flies) from where the alley once was. Nowadays, there's maybe half-a-dozen bars and restaurants located away from the alley that have a loyal, local foreigner customer base and a few do excellent food too.

 

The current epicenter of foreign bar culture is thankfully only about 300 meters long and gradually getting whittled away at as land prices make hotels a better investment than two dozen, mostly empty beer bars staffed by some of the fittest ladyboys in the area. Fit as in "fit as a butcher's dog" is fit. That's the 'cow shed' for you. It has a proper name and so does the street it's on, but it's irrelevant anyway.

 

The city and surrounds is blessed with some nice quiet housing developments that range from the oder crowded and unregulated ones (same as Pattaya and Jomtien) to newer, modern ones of a better quality. There's a trend away from the single-floor villa developments to the two-story 'family' style which may be a hint as to which market they are focusing on or, it could be indicative of soaring land prices so squeeze twice as many homes into the same sized plot.

 

The airport is well served from both Bangkok airports plus once-daily flights to Phuket and Chiang Mai (maybe a couple of these daily depending on the season). |There was a daily U-Tapao service that sadly died on the vine. It hasn't regained its international status briefly earned about 8 years ago but fingers crossed.

 

Up to 6 trains daily (including the overnighters) from Bangkok and I think 4 of them go onward to do the Nong Khai shuttle.

 

Nobody's mentioned Udon's ubiquitous tuk-tuk or 'skylab' that still ply the routes around town and the nearby suburbs. In the days before GRAB, they were a cheap (slow, rough and noisy) alternative to drinking and driving. Still are. Once you get a regular driver who knows your schedule and social proclivities, it's like having a bargain-priced, private chaffeur-driven service (if you wear noise-cancelling headphones and keep your head down).