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Posted

Hi all, my first post. I tried to search this forum but didn't get appropriate answers so looking forward to hear from the experts here.

For last 5/6 days i have noticed my 8 years old (Lpg operated) car is losing lots of power. Even though the engine is roaring, the rpm is getting high but the car just won't move like before. Even on first gear, it takes a while for the car to go ahead. Sometimes i hear some whining noise.

But the top speed is okai but it takes a while to reach there. Lets say i'm on 100km/h and on fourth gear, when i press the acceleration the engine roars but doesn't immediate increase the speed like before.

I hope i could explain my situation.

first i thought it's the Lpg tuning problem. But i went there, tuned and still the same problem. Is it something to do with the belt? Feels like the wheels are not rotating enough even though the engine is producing enough torque.

I'll go to garage soon but i should have some idea about the problem.

thanks guys,

regards,

Shon

Posted

Another common problem with modern cars is the ECU (or electronic control unit) becomes defective therefore the inof is not passed on.

Posted
Most likely your clutch is slipping

sounds the right answer. As i have been feeling little different lately on clutch. is it expensive to fix this?

my car is 8 years old so not sure it comes with ECU.

Posted

Sounds like clutch to me too, the parts are not that expensive but it is a major job to to fit them, depending on the car and mechanic but would be at least a 3 hour job, however don't be surprised if it is a much longer. What sort of car is it?

Posted

I would nurse it along carefully until you get it fixed avoid making the engine roar and hills if you can. While it is slipping it will make it wear more much more and get to the point of being undrivable much quicker

Posted
I would nurse it along carefully until you get it fixed avoid making the engine roar and hills if you can. While it is slipping it will make it wear more much more and get to the point of being undrivable much quicker

i'll go to garage today evening after my work. is there any other possibilities beside this clutch problem?

i recently made some fix on wheels , do you guy think the mechanic guy messed up something?

Posted

Had a similar problem with a 1991 BMW 2.0L Auto Kept on over revving and then slipping into "limp home mode" Problem resolved after one reconditioned and then one new ECU. That was in England too. Sharky mechanics are everywhere.

Posted

The car is not auto transmission so sounds like a different issue in the BMW.

I am quite sure it is the clutch but hard to be 100 percent sure without looking at it.

What type of car is it?

Posted
The car is not auto transmission so sounds like a different issue in the BMW.

I am quite sure it is the clutch but hard to be 100 percent sure without looking at it.

What type of car is it?

it's nissan sedan. Very nice car and i have been using it without any problem so far. it's been a while since last time i changed the engine oil though.

Today evening i'll go to garage and check out. Later i'll let you guys know about my "rip off" (hopefully not). When ever they see a falang , they usually charge lot of money.

so i needed to know what actually problem so i could talk about it. thanks guys.

Posted
The car is not auto transmission so sounds like a different issue in the BMW.

I am quite sure it is the clutch but hard to be 100 percent sure without looking at it.

What type of car is it?

it's nissan sedan. Very nice car and i have been using it without any problem so far. it's been a while since last time i changed the engine oil though.

Today evening i'll go to garage and check out. Later i'll let you guys know about my "rip off" (hopefully not). When ever they see a falang , they usually charge lot of money.

so i needed to know what actually problem so i could talk about it. thanks guys.

Simple to diagnose. Handbrake on, start engine, clutch pedal down, put into gear, accelorator down a bit, release clutch pedal slowly. Car should not move because handbrake on, engine revs up, if it doesn't stall the engine then it is definitely the clutch.

Replacement time is cheap, cost of parts? No idea!

Posted
shontrashi: recently made some fix on wheels , do you guy think the mechanic guy messed up something?

Hi there, before you get the clutch ripped out you should get the car up on a hoist to see if the wheels will turn freely. The handbrake maybe dragging due to being fitted incorrectly after whatever the mechanic did. If it's front wheel drive the fronts will drag, very hard to turn wheels by hand, if it's rear wheel drive....ditto for the back wheels.

And if your got a weak clutch it may feel like the clutch is on the way out!

Posted
Even though the engine is roaring, the rpm is getting high but the car just won't move like before.

Awesome! Saw a car recently (presumed there was a thai guy driving but didn't look, actually I don't think I could see) driving along at a crawl. The engine was bouncing off the rev limiter, it was difficult to pass cause of the smoke and the smell was extreme. I went past him thinking 'doesn't he know the clutch is history? This didn't just this second happen'. Have always found it difficult to comprehend how someone can be oblivious to such impending disaster. Actually I think I'm a little bit jealous

Posted
Even though the engine is roaring, the rpm is getting high but the car just won't move like before.

Awesome! Saw a car recently (presumed there was a thai guy driving but didn't look, actually I don't think I could see) driving along at a crawl. The engine was bouncing off the rev limiter, it was difficult to pass cause of the smoke and the smell was extreme. I went past him thinking 'doesn't he know the clutch is history? This didn't just this second happen'. Have always found it difficult to comprehend how someone can be oblivious to such impending disaster. Actually I think I'm a little bit jealous

it was not me. i would never drive like that.

Anyway, i went to garage yesterday and you guys are right. it is the clutch problem.

But he quoted me 6000 baht to change new clutch disk pad, disk cover and others. He said he will check whether to change the round disk cover or not. If not then it will reduce to 3000 baht.

isn't it a little too much for 8 years old car? Does it has to do anything with the wheel bearing?

feedback guys.

Posted
good price, has nothing to do with wheel bearings.

just got a call from the garage guy and i negotiated for 5000 baht. He is okai with that. I'll get a new disk pad and cover. And some other things which i didn't really understand.

i still feel the price is too much. But one member said it is a good price. Usually i go many garage and check out the price also to verify the actually problem of the car. But this time i didn't want drive with faulty clutch hence just went to one shop.

thanks.

Posted

5000 baht is not too bad as it is a big job. The clutch is between the engine and gearbox it has a disk (the pad you mentioned) which eventually wears out as you have experienced. It's job is to stop power going to the wheels while you have your foot on the clutch pedal, when you take your foot off the clutch pedal it connects the engine to the gearbox and away you go. There is no real connection between it and the wheel bearings. The mechanic is right that there are 2 parts to the clutch, if there is any doubt about the pressure plate (cover as you call it) replace it, as there is no extra work needed but if it gives trouble later you will have pay for the whole job to be done again.

Hope this makes sense. :o

Posted

There are many more than 2 parts to a clutch,

Starting at the flywheel, mounted on the back of the engine, this also acts as the starter ring gear for the engine,

In the middle of the flywheel is the spigot bearing, this is where the gearbox input shaft fits, if this bearing is worn, it can cause drag on the shaft despite the fact that the clutch is disengaged,

Then the friction face of the flywheel, it should be smooth and silver coulered, not blue and heat cracks all over,

The friction plate, a good plate will have at least 3mm of material before the fixing rivets, the 5/6 springs in the middle [cush drive,anti snatch] should be tight and intact, the splined drive in the middle should be clean with some copper grease or any high melting point grease to enable movement on the spigot/input shaft,

The Diapghram cover friction plate hould be a good silver colour, not blue, and no heat cracks,in a bolted to flywheel scenario, the central fingers of the cover plate should all be level, this is the same as when the cover is not bolted down, the fingers being is where the thrust bearing pushes to free the drive,

Thrust bearing, this is activated by your left foot, via cable or hydraulics, its a fixed bearing on the spigot shaft with a free running face that pushes the fingers of the cover plate to dis-engage the drive to the gearbox, if this thrust bearing does not run free and quiet, it will make a noise, and is due for replacement,

If all the parts above are inspected properly, and replaced if needed, then your clutch with good driving of course should last another 8 or more years,

Cheers, Lickey.

Posted

my god! you guys know a lot. Really appreciate your description. it helped me to understand properly.

Well, they changed the clutch disk, cover and spigot bearing. My old clutch disk, looked like engraved by some sharp knife!!

Now i'm finding it hard to drive as the clutch is having whole new feelings. The car is jumping forward when i accelerate. But if feels good. I need to get used to it soon.

The mechanic said "see you" while leaving then i said, NO DUDE! i don't want to see you again. He didn't get me.

thanks guys.

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