Any plumbers or guys that know about this, I suspect my cheap old check valve but this is a diagram of the plumbing.

Anyone with a name for a good ball-cock for the tank on my third one, still doesn't stop tank over-flow.

Any name of a check-valve someone has found to be OK. Thanks. K.

Tank.bmp

We have a ball-cock purchased at Home Pro (sorry forget the name) that works good. BUT, it's not actually used that much. The gf prefers to manually fill it (via the valve) on usually a 2 day basis. ie: let it drain 1/3 to 1/2 and then fill it adding a cap or two of bleach at the same time. If the "city water" pressure is low or zero I have option to route from the bore pump. Just another way to do it.

Does the brr cease if you close tap on output of pump? But suspect you are right the check value is allowing water to escape back into mains as suspect pump pressure is normally higher than mains so that value vital. I don't use a check value but only a manual tap for bypass as normally always use pump (so can't say one would be better than another). A for the float valve on tank they cost about 500 baht for complete units. You might need to bend shaft down a bit if valve not closing fully but probably needs replacement.

Close the main supply valve ... that takes the check valve out of the equatiuon. If still a problem, is your pump one that has it's own pressure tank .. if so make sure that it's empty ie just full of air. If it still cuts in and out then you probably have a leak somewhere. To confirm shut the pump discharge valve as already advised ...

Hope this helps.

Thanks for replies.

Yeah ' BkrSteve ' as I said I'm on my third different ball-valve now, I was just trying to get info on a good quality one, they said in Home-mart at purchase that all were ching ching.

I only realized about this being a pump problem because of what ' lopburi3 ' mentioned about us switching the pump on and off, thought it was norm that's why I put a switch in our upstairs bedroom.

I put the diagram up to see if the plumbing was correct, I'll point on this one to see if anyone can say whether the check valve is in the correct place.

Tank.bmp

Your non-return valve is in the correct position.

The fact that the pump ceases to cut in and out when the pump outlet valve is closed indicates that the non-return valve is not not operating correctly.

It is (more) normal, however, to have an isolating valve instead of a non-return valve, so that you use the pumped system all the time. This way you have a constant supply pressure throughout the house.

Check valve is fine in current placement - can you shut water to actual house beyond the check valve connection to confirm pump still runs/cycles (which would mean check valve leaking)? You could also have a leak anywhere in home causing pump to activate but two minutes would be a strong leak or a pump with no air in captive tank to allow pressure change between stop and start so in that case a tiny leak could cause pump to cycle. Draining the pump and then letting it self prime will normally fix air problem (if not actually defective part).

Your non-return valve is in the correct position.

The fact that the pump ceases to cut in and out when the pump outlet valve is closed indicates that the non-return valve is not not operating correctly.

It is (more) normal, however, to have an isolating valve instead of a non-return valve, so that you use the pumped system all the time. This way you have a constant supply pressure throughout the house.

If I removed the check valve, where would I have to put the isolating valve, same place. ?

Yes - you would turn that valve off except for power failures and turn the pump output valve on (except to use city water). So change position of them (2 valves) when using water from pump or city.

Check valve is fine in current placement - can you shut water to actual house beyond the check valve connection to confirm pump still runs/cycles (which would mean check valve leaking)? You could also have a leak anywhere in home causing pump to activate but two minutes would be a strong leak or a pump with no air in captive tank to allow pressure change between stop and start so in that case a tiny leak could cause pump to cycle. Draining the pump and then letting it self prime will normally fix air problem (if not actually defective part).

Thanks never though trying that, I have shut off the tap at the mains meter into the house before the check valve the pump only comes on when any tap in the house is opened, so definitely check valve, me's think.

That confirms it.

Although if your float valve on tank is really leaking that would still be in system so it must be shut good today.

But perhaps more likely the water pressure is zero on one side of check valve and high on the other so it works better.

That confirms it.

Thanks for your help. K.

Your non-return valve is in the correct position.

The fact that the pump ceases to cut in and out when the pump outlet valve is closed indicates that the non-return valve is not not operating correctly.

It is (more) normal, however, to have an isolating valve instead of a non-return valve, so that you use the pumped system all the time. This way you have a constant supply pressure throughout the house.

If I removed the check valve, where would I have to put the isolating valve, same place. ?

Correct...

Uhm, would'nt he need to add some pipe and another valve to end up with the same effect as with the check valve? ie: to give the options for water flow?

Uhm, would'nt he need to add some pipe and another valve to end up with the same effect as with the check valve? ie: to give the options for water flow?

He would just need to switch off the pump, close the pump outlet valve and open the stop valve in the bye-pass, ie open the valve that is replacing the non-return valve.

Uhm, would'nt he need to add some pipe and another valve to end up with the same effect as with the check valve? ie: to give the options for water flow?

He would just need to switch off the pump, close the pump outlet valve and open the stop valve in the bye-pass, ie open the valve that is replacing the non-return valve.

I was thinking along the lines of BkrSteve because I don't really want to bother opening and shutting valves.

Just looked at the cheapo check valve and it was a bit bunged up, cleaned it and I got a longer time before pump burrr.

Shut the tap off at the road main and a pump brrr was nearly 5mins, pushed the ball-cock up and down and tied it up, silence at last.

I will try and source a decent check valve better than just the hinged brass flap type I have now and do the same for the tank and find a good ball type shut off valve.

Thanks to all for bringing this to my notice I thought what I had was the norm.