Fast and malodorous: Bangkok's "khlong" boat network

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Feature
Fast and malodorous: Bangkok's "khlong" boat network
by Delphine THOUVENOT

BANGKOK, October 15, 2013 (AFP) - Every morning, tens of thousands of Bangkok's most rushed, reckless or cash-strapped commuters hop onto its "khlong" boats -- plying the main canal in a speedy, if not fragrant, bid to avoid the city's notorious road congestion.

"I take the boat because it goes much faster," 18-year-old university student, Pam Olanthanyawat, told AFP before she leapt blithely onto one of the crowded shuttles on the Saen Saeb canal.

As the city of 12 million grinds to a virtual standstill at peak times, many commuters have turned to the 30 kilometre (19 mile) long canal, or khlong in Thai.

But the boats are not for the faint-hearted.

Passengers are overwhelmingly the young and able bodied -- few older people or families with children dare board the vessels, which often pull in to dock for just seconds during rush hour.

Agile men and women -- many of whom manage the feat despite perilous high heels -- leap aboard the narrow vessels and cling onto a system of ropes inside as they speed off to the next stop.

The online video sharing site YouTube abounds with footage of unfortunate passengers who are not quick or deft enough when boarding and so plunge into the foul-smelling khlongs.

One clip shows what it calls a khlong "tsunami" -- waiting passengers getting drenched as giant waves, caused by passing boats, wash over a pontoon -- and has notched up several hundred thousand hits. (http://u.afp.com/3VN)

The boats' waterproof canvas roofs are controlled by passengers themselves, who move them up and down to allow others to board and keep everyone protected from khlong water.

But it is not always entirely effective.

"My mother never takes the boat because she is too scared," said Pam as grey spray thrown up by boats travelling in the opposite direction, dripped through the canvas.

A stinky 'Venice of Asia'?

Bangkok has a vast network of canals, although rapid urbanisation means that many are now simply short disconnected stretches, while others are blocked with pipes or other objects that would prevent them being used by boats.

Tawatchai Laosirihongthong, a professor and transport expert at Thonburi University said despite their problems, the khlong boats are a draw.

"There is no 'boat jam' and the fare is cheap," he said.

There were 38 million passenger journeys on the khlong boats in 2012, according to official figures, or 100,000 per day.

At less than 20 baht, or some 0.50 cents, a ticket is much cheaper than the elevated train network for those travelling from the outskirts of the city.

Buses are the capital's cheapest rides, but with their open windows, lack of air-conditioning and propensity to get snarled in the Bangkok traffic, they are a less popular option for the time-stretched commuter.

Currently, the khlong shuttles are run entirely by a private company, Family Transport, whose fleet of 70 shuttles covers nearly 20 kilometres (12 miles) of the city's canals.

Tawatchai said the challenge is that in Bangkok's infrastructure "everything needs to be improved".

Municipal authorities are testing public boats on a supplementary 11 kilometre stretch, adding 14 new pontoons to the 27 already in use.

Bangkok is also promising more sewage and waste water treatment plants to make the khlongs a less pungent way to get around.

A recent article by the English language Bangkok Post expressed frustration that the city does not make more of its canals and main river, making an unfavourable comparison with the South Korean capital's reinvigoration of one of its waterways.

"Since Seoul can do it, why not Bangkok and our government?" it said of the Cheonggyecheon stream that runs through the heart of Seoul, where city residents can dip their feet into the water and picnic on its banks.

The Rough Guide to Bangkok said Khlong Saen Saeb was a worthwhile experience for visitors to the Thai capital, a city widely nicknamed the Venice of Asia.

"This is your quickest and most interesting way of getting between the west and east parts of town, if you can stand the stench of the canal," the guide said.

Pam, the archeology student, said her mother can remember a time when the canals were clean, but was astonished by a contemporary comparison to Italy's Venice and its renowned aquatic transit system.

"This, like Venice?" she said, with a look of disgust as she caught a whiff of the untreated sewage sloshing in the fetid canal.


-- (c) Copyright AFP 2013-10-15

[Dr Robert]

Its as good as any ride I have ever had in a theme park-fast and furious and deliciously yen sabai. Keep it just like it is

[arminbkk]

I take the klong boat often.

Often people get wet, when two boats

pass each other or pass close to the sides.

Recently I heard a story (I haven't seen it myself) of a boat with all passengers surprised/amazed when a

woman got off the boat and had to step up high: she wore no underwear.

[topt]

My first visit to Bangkok in 1990 something, and having endured the traffic, discovered a convenient stop close to our hotel and I thought it was the greatest way to get into where we were going.

Reading this bought back the memories of that trip

[bangon04]

Didn't the politician Leena jump into the San Saeb as a publicity stunt to prove how safe it is?

[NomadRip]

I love it, despite the smell. It's a unique system, and much better than the streets. i hope they make more of it passable and it gets cleaned up. I used it yesterday, and do when I have a need to.

[rosswlkr]

Improve and expand the boat service, reconnect the khlongs ... I've thought it is a fantastic idea for Bangkok's commuting issues for a long time, do it! At the same time, open more of these waterways to deal with getting flood waters out to sea. This would make an effective mega-project!

[bkk_mike]

I used it before the Skytrain, when it was a quick way to avoid the worst of the traffic (park at The Mall Bangkapi - and take the boat from there to near what is now called Central World).

I honestly don't think I've used it since the Skytrain opened though.

As for the smell, and comparisons with Venice. I believe Venice is supposed to smell pretty bad on hot days as well, and for the same reason.

[paquito]

In the late 90ies I used it often from Hualampong to Banglampoo (Samsen/Khao San Rd). Always a fun ride. Alas, that service was cancelled before the year 2000. No option but taxi now to get to MRT/BTS.

[sfokevin]

Is there a map of the klong boat stops?

[mmushr00m]

Love the boats. Fast and cheap. The stretch from west from Pratunam towards Phanfa lilat us actually quite pleasant.

If the water is murky brown its not that bad but when the water looks black it stinks.

[ableguy]

Bang kali to Chinatown the only way to go.

[JSPS]

My experience with khlong boats dates from the 1970s. They were fast, wet and malodorous back then as well.

[theoldgit]

I use them frequently as they stop almost outside my condo and I can reach Pratunam in about 15 minutes for 14 Baht, normally avoid in the rush hours as they are too tightly packed when they reach my stop.

Certainly quicker, and cheaper, than the motorcycle/BTS option from my location.

Falling in the khlong is my biggest fear, I've never seen it happen but I'm sure it does.

[aeromana]

Does anyone know why it goes slow after Pratanum to the MBK stop?

[theoldgit]

Does anyone know why it goes slow after Pratanum to the MBK stop?

I think a minor royal lives somewhere on the left and cannot be disturbed by the riff raff on the boats.

[exalll]

Does anyone know why it goes slow after Pratanum to the MBK stop?

I think a minor royal lives somewhere on the left and cannot be disturbed by the riff raff on the boats.

This is my understanding, except I don't think the royal in question is so "minor"

[rgs2001uk]

Is there a map of the klong boat stops?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khlong_Saen_Saep_boat_service

[b19bry]

Is there a map of the klong boat stops?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khlong_Saen_Saep_boat_service

https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=103095119814366353210.000001131d73f150aaac9&z=12&om=0

[Gaccha]

They had a canal boat service on the west side of the river running down Bangkok noi but it was cancelled around 2009.

I know there is a functioning other service on the west side of the river that heads from Chao praya river up one of the canals west but I can't find out abything about its stops... anyone know?

[Baloo22]

Is there a map of the klong boat stops?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khlong_Saen_Saep_boat_service

https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=103095119814366353210.000001131d73f150aaac9&z=12&om=0

Here is the website for the boat service itself: Khlong Saen Saeb Express Boat

And in case anyone needs it, here is the website for the Chao Phraya River Express Boat.

Edited October 16, 2013 by Baloo22

[sfokevin]

Does anyone know why it goes slow after Pratanum to the MBK stop?

I think a minor royal lives somewhere on the left and cannot be disturbed by the riff raff on the boats.

This is my understanding, except I don't think the royal in question is so "minor"

It's not a minor one - that's the palace of our beloved Princess who wears sensible shoes... Edited October 16, 2013 by sfokevin

[TheSpade]

Used to take it from Banglumpoo to Hua Chang all the time to connect with the BTS. 10B and 10 minutes. Always hated it when water splashed up and landed on my face though.

[Lakegeneve]

Didn't the politician Leena jump into the San Saeb as a publicity stunt to prove how safe it is?

Indeed she did! It was while running for the BMA Gov in the 2008 BKK Gov election but at the cleaner end of the klong east of Pathum Wan. She did it to highlight that some of the canal residents in inner BKK bath in the canals daily due to inadequate water supply.

However, tragically it claimed the life of her campaign manager who couldn't swim!!! Who had the bright idea for the someone to enter the klong who couldn't swim is one of the mysteries of Leena.

Leena, also proposed as one of her main election platforms to drain klong San Saeb and install an underground metro line running the whole way from Lan Luang to Bangkapi!! I think that she rehashed this in the 09 BMA Gov election (after Apirak stood down due to the firetruck allegations) but thankfully she didn't go for another bathing session.

She ran 3 times before she finally got the msg.........stick to the beauty business!

[Lakegeneve]

Readers should also note that for the last 2 years the BMA has been building new piers from Bangkpai to Minburi to extend the San Saeb route. This service opened in April and was free for the first 6 months. It only operates on a limited, peak hrs timetable from 6-9am and 4-7:30pm.

Quite a nice ride as the klong is much cleaner past Bangkapi.

[Lakegeneve]

The Pathum Thani Gov approved 23m baht to restart the old Rangsit service from early 2014. Let's see if it starts before 2015.........

1. Prachathipat Witthayakarn School near Chulalongkorn Water Gate and Rangsit Market

2. Future Park (Klong 1 ), 3. Bangchak gas station (Klong 2), 4. Thongchai village project
5. Mitsubishi Car Center (Klong 3), 6. Wat Kianket, 7. Tesco Lotus , 8. Klong 4 9. Wat Munchindaram (Klong 5), 10. Eastern Asia University (Klong 6), 11. Juvenile Court of Thunyaburi
12. Big C Thunyaburi 13. Wat Na Bun (Klong 7) 14. Lotus Thunyaburi (Klong 8 )

[Lakegeneve]

Coincidentally, it was reported that a San Saeb ferry sunk tonight at Chitlom pier around 6pm though services had been suspended prior to 5pm due to the high tide in the canal

The ferry which was en route from Chidlom Pier, hit a metal structure attached to Wat Thep Lila Pier at about 6pm, causing cracks in the boat’s hull and panicking about 80 commuters onboard as water began leaking into the vessel. All passengers managed to climb onto the pier shortly before the boat sank. Mr Sorasak said the high tide made docking difficult as the ferry's hull was higher than the pier’s fenders made of used car tyres.

[David48]

^^ Thanks LG ... always appreciate your updates ...