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Posted

I have read a lot of positive things about Wago connectors. There seems to be a number of types available. Any advice how to choose one type vs another? Below are 2 example types that appear very simlar.

 

 

wago.jpg

Posted

I have a bin full of the clip type in your picture, 2, 3, & 4 wire.  The thing that I don't like about them is that the wires are inserted on the same side, especially the 2 pin.  It would be more convenient if they were inserted end to end  like the choc-blocs.

Posted

I exclusively used the Wago push type in our house installation. Apart from the sparks stripping some wires too short they have been 100% reliable.

 

These:-

 

773_wallnuts.jpg

 

http://www.wago.us/products/terminal-blocks-and-connectors/installation-connectors/push-wire-connectors-for-junction-boxes-273-773-series/wall-nuts-series-773/

 

We also used the lever type as shown by canopy when installing the PA system on the Purple Line :smile:

 

Posted (edited)

Years ago, we used Phoenix Contacts, which (as I recall) were the fore-runners, but there are now hundreds of companies making copies and extending the choices.  Wago's got a great reputation and I've actually visited one of their manufacturing plants in Langfang, China.

 

Caveats on all of the name brands- there's lots of factories pushing out counterfeits so know your supplier well.  Some of the counterfeits look great but use sub standard materials and workmanship that tend to melt under power.

 

In any case, there are literally thousands of different styles and sizes and there's a lot of science engineering behind selecting the right ones for a specific application.  In a typical motor control panel, we often used  hundreds of terminal blocks in 10-20 different styles in one panel alone.

 

Good news:  Wago's got great literature online spelling out their different models.  Bad news:  If you're not familiar, count on spending a lot of time perusing the data.

 

With all respect, this is one of those times when it's worth hiring some expert help to keep from frying your loved ones down the line.

 

Edited by impulse
Posted

If i8nj doubt there  is absolutely nothing wrong with using pliers to twist the wires together and wrapping them in tape.  Been there, done that for many years!

Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, impulse said:

If you're not familiar, count on spending a lot of time perusing the data.

And everyone starts by being unfamiliar; it's not something you are born with. That's why it seemed worthwhile to ask before perusing the data and the information so far has been very useful.

 

With all respect, this is one of those times when it's worth hiring some expert help to keep from frying your loved ones down the line.

 

The reality is this forum is a lifeline of expert help enabling people to learn to meet or exceed code. Leaving everything up to a so-called electrician in the boonies is the worst thing you could do in my observation.

 

Edited by canopy
Posted (edited)
32 minutes ago, canopy said:

And everyone starts by being unfamiliar; it's not something you are born with. That's why it seemed worthwhile to ask before perusing the data and the information so far has been very useful.

 

With all respect, this is one of those times when it's worth hiring some expert help to keep from frying your loved ones down the line.

 

The reality is this forum is a lifeline of expert help enabling people to learn to meet or exceed code. Leaving everything up to a so-called electrician in the boonies is the worst thing you could do in my observation.

 

If you believe that a few hours or days or weeks of studying on the interweb can qualify you to meet or exceed code, there's a lot of sparkies all over the world that got screwed out of the cost of years of training and hands on experience under the supervision of guys with years of training and experience.

 

You may not be able to find an expert in your home village, but they are available in Thailand.  We get amazing electricians out to our offshore platforms every day of the year.  And half of them are on days off at any one time- looking for moonlighting work. 

 

And I'd pay someone out of BKK before I let my loved ones swim in my pool or shower in my bathroom after learning to wire them up from TVF.  Some of the guys here offer great advice, but they can't train you to "meet code".  Or keep your family safe.  That takes years to learn, especially starting from some of the disasters that the builders may hand you.  Your part of the job may be perfect, but it fits within a system that may bite you in the ass.  And you'll know just enough to be dangerous.

 

Edited by impulse
Posted

so these are really for bodge jobs ,,,the only time really needed its when your doing 3 plate wiring:),,,,,,,most other times should be a cable from c.u. direct to outlet point....555

Posted
8 hours ago, impulse said:

You may not be able to find an expert in your home village, but they are available in Thailand.  We get amazing electricians out to our offshore platforms every day of the year.  And half of them are on days off at any one time- looking for moonlighting work. 

 

Absolutely. But they are far outnumbered by the guys with a roll of tape, a screwdriver and industrial scissors :sad:

 

7 hours ago, taninthai said:

so these are really for bodge jobs

 

By no means bodge jobs, use them where you would use wire-nuts or twist-n-tape.

 

 

Posted
2 minutes ago, canuckamuck said:

Are these good for when you want to split a wire 3 or four ways, like for power supply to different lights in a room?

 

Yup, quick and easy, and easy to fix if you get it wrong.

Posted
9 hours ago, impulse said:

 

If you believe that a few hours or days or weeks of studying on the interweb can qualify you to meet or exceed code

 

I don't believe this. What you are doing is making up a strawman.

 

And I'd pay someone out of BKK

 

Getting a reputable, licensed electrician would be fantastic. It would also be great to have approval from a building inspector. However, the reality is neither of these are a reasonable option in many parts of Thailand. So if you wish to voice concerns, this would be good place to focus your energy.

 

Posted

This is kinda funny! I  have a residential electricians license, a plumbers license and a general contractors license all issued  in Pearl River County in Mississippi in 1976 with no expiration date. I had to get them because I built my house under the GI bill and it was required that the  builders were licensed.  My wife's uncle was the electrical inspector in the county so  getting them was easy, much like here if they do actually exist.  I do, however, have a degree in electrical engineering from  the U of Maryland and have designed the electrical distribution system of two drone aircraft, all of which crashed and burned but not do to my design.

 

What I am saying is having a piece of paper with your name on it doesn't mean squat,  It's what you know and especially what you are not afraid to ask someone else  as the requirements change on a daily basis. Amps will kill, volts won't!

Posted

Tried them a few times and not really happy with the grabbing clip for 240 volt, seen a few burn out.

We use single screw connectors for active , nuetral and switch wires with 2 screw connectors for the earths, very positive connection and never had an issue

2 screw.jpg

single screw.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Some notes on what I have learned.

 

It was extremely valuable to get the tip about generic knock offs. Looking closely at markings I can see the market is flooded with generic variants that are called "wago". Be careful.


What inspired this thread is when I was selecting a connector the two I pictured not only met the specifications I needed, but they appeared to have identical specifications. I learned the difference is the one on the right is the predecessor and the left is the new and improved successor.

 

For the type Crossy pictured there is now a successor of this type as well and wow are they cool. These push in types, compared to the picture of the lever type I show, hold the wire incredibly tight. It's extremely difficult to remove a wire, though it can be done and the wago part reused a number of times.

 

As far as sources, I have not seen wago connectors in any stores from the big box stores to the small electrical stores, but lazada sells a number of types. I am very impressed with wago connectors and without this site would have never known they even existed and might otherwise have been mashing wires and stripping screws with cheap choc blocks.

 

Posted

Real Wagos can be obtained here:-

 

US POWER DISTRIBUTION CO., LTD.
213/6-8 4th Floor K.S. Building
Ratchada-phisek Road, Dindaeng
Bangkok 10400 THAILAND.

 

They are not cheap.

 

Posted

Our house is a mix of old traditional wood type and new brick add on extensions, so you can imagine the electrics are a bit of a nightmare. :shock1:

 

Anyway this is what I usually do when adding an additional point:-

 

SAM_1154.jpg.acae655b425a5621e7813c113e018540.jpgSAM_1155.jpg.37482afeb1a57cd3ea286f2fcb038799.jpg

 

Twist the wire ends together using pliers before screwing then into the strip connector. It's a good idea to check the screws in the strip connector again after you got them in the box as all the wiggling to get the in sometimes loosens the screws.

 

And yes there is a earth wire connected in there somewhere :thumbsup: 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
Real Wagos can be obtained here:-
 
US POWER DISTRIBUTION CO., LTD.
213/6-8 4th Floor K.S. Building
Ratchada-phisek Road, Dindaeng
Bangkok 10400 THAILAND.
 
They are not cheap.
 

Hi, can you get waterproof Wago push type connectors?

I need them for my pool lights deck boxes.

I was going to solder the wires together and use heat shrink (wires from the transformer and connecting to the pool lights), but maybe the Wago connectors would be better.

The deck boxes are supposedly waterproof and look like they are, with a grommet like seal for the top screw-on lid.

Voltage is 12 V.

Sent from my SM-J700F using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app

Posted

@carlyai are the boxes above pool water level (ie dry)? If so the regular Wagos should be fine, but like you I'd be using solder/crimps and heatshrink.

 

Do try to get adhesive lined heatshrink, the wet will never get in. I had to get mine from China :sad:

 

Posted
6 minutes ago, Crossy said: are the boxes above pool water level (ie dry)? If so the regular Wagos should be fine, but like you I'd be using solder/crimps and heatshrink.

 

Do try to get adhesive lined heatshrink, the wet will never get in. I had to get mine from China :sad:

 

Could you give me a link to the source please 

Posted
[mention=207577]carlyai[/mention] are the boxes above pool water level (ie dry)? If so the regular Wagos should be fine, but like you I'd be using solder/crimps and heatshrink.

 

Do try to get adhesive lined heatshrink, the wet will never get in. I had to get mine from China :sad:

 

Yes the boxes and connections are above the water line.

 

Adhesive lined heat shrink... that's a new one on me, but I only need enough for 4 connections, doubt they're sell me 1 m.

So the heat gun shrinks the heat shrink and melts the adhesive as well?

 

Cunning.

 

Thanks again.

 

Sent from my SM-J700F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Posted
7 hours ago, carlyai said:

Adhesive lined heat shrink... that's a new one on me, but I only need enough for 4 connections, doubt they're sell me 1 m.

So the heat gun shrinks the heat shrink and melts the adhesive as well?

Aliexpress has it,and it's cheap: https://www.aliexpress.com/popular/waterproof-heat-shrink-tubing.html?src=google&albch=search&acnt=479-062-3723&isdl=y&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&albcp=266121556&albag=7593673036&slnk=&trgt=aud-165594907443:dsa-42862830006&plac=&crea=64152518596&netw=g&device=c&mtctp=b&memo1=1t4&gclid=CjwKCAjwk4vMBRAgEiwA4ftLs95ICFxY7kVkFFsGrc2p2HApwz31eDMmsmiAcmAjqfw-QAyxkJQbzRoC3WkQAvD_BwE

Posted

A tip for using the adhesive lined heatshrink.

 

Start in the middle or at one end and work along so the air is squeezed out, otherwise you end up with a nicely sealed bubble :sad:

 

Thanks for the link @wayned reminded me I have to buy some more :smile:

 

Posted

For those who like using crimp connections, I've used these chaps in the past.

 

Crimps with adhesive lined heatshrink insulation, combine with an overall adhesive lined heatshrink outer and the wet isn't getting in.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Newest-100Pcs-Mixed-seal-heat-shrink-Butt-Connectors-Electrical-Terminals-Heatshrink-Connector-Joiners-Cable-Sleeves-Favorable/32694826606.html

 

 

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