Cam Ranh and Nha Trang

[snoop1130]

Cam Ranh and Nha Trang

by Neil Brook

 

 

When the French ruled Indochina, they found the perfect spot for a seaside retreat, stringing a handful of small villages together to form Nha Trang. On the south coast of Vietnam this city is now home to around 350,000 people and sits on one of the most beautiful bays in the world. 

 

However you won’t find Nha Tang on any airport departure boards as the city is served by the airport at Cam Ranh. From here it’s a 45 minute drive along a stunning, winding coastal road past beaches and fishing villages into the city. A new international terminal has just been completed and with direct flights from Bangkok, in less than 2 hours you can be sitting on the beach discovering why Nha Trang is a favourite destination for travellers the world over. 

 

As you fly in, you’ll know you’ve made the right decision as you skim past the white sandy beaches and crystal clear waters of Cam Ranh. This stretch of beach as you leave the airport heading into the city is one of the rare places in the world that is beautiful and unspoilt. If you’re looking to get away from the hustle bustle of the real world this is the place as hotels have snapped up prime beachfront locations and are building resorts with lush lawns and pools on the water’s edge. Most are all inclusive and fairly soon I’m sure this will become the Vietnamese riviera. You could be anywhere in the world as it lacks any local flavour, however anywhere in the world doesn’t have this location. 

 

Taxi fares into the city are negotiable and around 300,000 Vietnamese Dong is more than reasonable. If you hop in and the meter is on you’ll pay double or more than that. I use a private car company, Dic Chung Taxi. You can WhatsApp them (+84 93 607 04 16) and they’ll meet you and get you into the city in air conditioned private cars from 250,000D.

 

As you arrive into Nha Trang, the bay will take your breath away. Here the waves lap seductively at the shore along 5 kilometres of white sand that curves gently around a wide bay. Cocooned by islands (there are 19 of them) close by to the East and mountains to the West, this touch of paradise is protected from the severe weather that torments other parts of SE Asia. It’s the perfect location for a beach vacation with restaurants, nightclubs and bars at your doorstep. All or nothing, the choice is yours. It’s a vibrant city that mixes Vietnamese charm with the modern luxuries that international travellers appreciate. 

 

The rate of development in the city and Cam Ranh is staggering and each time I return there seems to be another hotel towering into the sky. There is an endless choice for all budgets with hotels lining the beachfront and smaller budget style places sitting further back from the sea. Beachfront properties have their own spots on the beach set up with umbrellas and loungers and of course refreshments on hand. However there are any number of places to choose from that offer shade and comfort to those staying elsewhere. Blue Sea Beach & Bar is a great. Hang around as the thatched roof bar becomes a cool spot to enjoy a sundowner. You’re spoilt for choice with the selection of restaurants across the road from the beach. As the afternoon progresses the sun dips behind the buildings lining the beach so shade is easy to find. And that’s free! The beach comes alive in the afternoon when locals descend, set up blankets and dive into the water fully clothed! Ladies in conical hats offer snacks and young boys sell kites. It’s the best time of the day.

 

The best place to stay in the city is the InterContinental Hotel. It’s the only five star property right on the beach where rooms command sweeping views of the city, mountains and bay. Their happy hour in the elegant lobby lounge is the perfect way to end the day after a day at their beach club. Everyone is welcome and for dinner, the seafood buffet is legendary. 

 

The sun rises early here. Start the day with a morning swim when the sea is usually flat and calm. Some afternoons it can get a little choppy, although it’s rarely too rough to enjoy. Afterwards, head down to the organic juice bar at the Sailing Club which offers innovative juices and smoothies to compliment their perfect Eggs Benedict. I enjoy keeping up with ‘The Kardashian’ – mint, celery and cucumber. You can easily settle in here for the day and one day you should.  As the sun sets on weekdays, bean bags are scattered on the sand and kerosene lamps give a bedouin feel. Saturdays, the Sailing Club’s beach party is the place to be and on Sunday afternoon resident DJs spin the discs accompanied by live saxophonist which is chilled out and very cool.

 

The best way to explore Nha Trang is on foot, by cycle or motorbikes which are inexpensive to rent. Bangkok locals will be familiar with motorbikes filling the streets. Here it seems everyone rides one. Cyclos (a seat on the front of a bike) allow someone else to do the legwork and are also a great way to get around. You’ll find the men hanging around on street corners. Set the price before you jump in and plan your own itinerary. It would be handy to have a map to show the driver and be generous if you stop for lunch and drinks along the way. This is by far the most fun. It’s also easy to grab taxis in the street to get from place to place.

 

You can hit the main attractions in the city easily in a day. The Po Nagar Towers, Long Son Pagoda and Nha Trang Cathedral are the main three.

 

From the 3rd Century the region around modern Nha Trang was known as Kauthara, and was part of the Champa Kingdom. All that remains from the period are the stunning Po Nagar Towers. Believed to have been constructed sometime before 781AD, the complex gives you a glimpse of a rich historical heritage. They’re located on Mount Cu Lau, where the Cai River meets the sea, so you’ll get a 360 degree view of the beautiful landscape around Nha Trang.The Po Nagar Cham Towers are a defining feature of Nha Trang and there were originally 10 buildings dedicated to Hindu deities. The 4 remaining towers, built in honour of local Goddess Po Nagar, Cri Cambhu, Sanhaka, and Ganeca, are still used today as places of worship for the Cham people. They’re found within a 10 minute stroll from Tran Phu Beach.

 

Long Son Pagoda is the largest Buddhist pagoda in Nha Trang. Founded in the late 19th Century it was built to honour 6 monks and nuns who died in self-immolation protesting against the Diem government, and its entrance and roof are covered in mosaic dragons of glass and ceramic. Allow one of the resident monks to guide you to the tombs at the top of an almost hidden side stairway. At the top a stunning 24 metre tall white Buddha glows in the sun as it sits watching over the city. Clamber down the 152 stone steps on the other side, stopping to admire the reclining Buddha halfway down. Note that the main building and some other areas are closed between 11.30am and 1pm. Each local chef closely guards their recipe for Phô (pronounced ‘fur’) the quintessential Vietnamese noodle soup. The cafe at the Long Son Pagoda serves one of the best and cheapest in town. 

 

From Long Son Pagoda you can walk back to the beach via Nha Trang Cathedral, where everyone is welcome at morning or afternoon mass (Vietnam is home to the second largest Catholic community in SE Asia). The Cathedral, set atop a hill that overlooks the train station, is widely known as the largest church in the city. It was constructed in provincial French Gothic style during the early 19th Century, featuring beautiful stained glass windows and a square clock tower surmounted by a large crucifix. Its 3 cathedral bells, which were cast in France in 1789, still ring out over the city. There are also 4,000 tombstones mounted on the sides of the Cathedral, which were placed here after the neighbouring cemetery was levelled in 1988 to extend the city train station. Mass is held at 5am and 18:30 on a daily basis. 

 

If you like the idea of climbing more stairs then head out to Suoi Do Pagoda a 50 year old temple that was built in honour of Quan Am, the Goddess of Mercy. It is believed that a young girl claimed to have seen the Goddess while playing with her friends at the nearby stream. It takes about 200 steps to reach the pagoda, where you’ll be greeted with panoramic views of paddy fields, banana plantations, and the neighbouring hills. The pagoda is a 30 minute drive from Nha Trang.

 

Full Story: https://expatlifeinthailand.com/travel-and-leisure/cam-ranh-and-nha-trang/

 

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[Destiny1990]

That and way easier visas procedures!!

[chrissables]

36 minutes ago, Destiny1990 said:

That and way easier visas procedures!!

Vietnam has just started cracking down on some visas, no 90 day issued now, or if issued you must report to immigration every 30 days, i understand.
I enjoy riding around the country and usually buy a 3 month visa, so a pain.
Hopefully they will rethink.
 

[Bogbrush]

I read somewhere (probably TV) it will be 30 day visa only, commencing 1st July, and NOT extendable - border run needed. As you say, hopefully to be rethought...

[aussiee]

Has been taken over by Russian and Chinese packaged tourists, buses everywhere and hard to move in the centre of town.  Used to be a fun backpacker haunt - I not see much fun there last year.  Hard to find a bar as most have been turned into restaurants.  Still mercifully cheap beer however if you look around:  back a few blocks a famous Duck Restaurant sell 1 litre of draft (not fresh beer) for 12k Dong (bout 15 baht).

 

Of course if one is into organic juices rather than cheap beer - well each to their own.

 

The beach is still nice, not changed in the 8 years since my last visit. 

 

Be happy if someone can correct me as to where one may find some kind of beer bar that might be fun - there used to be dozens of them.

[gamesgplayemail]

6 hours ago, chrissables said:

Vietnam has just started cracking down on some visas, no 90 day issued now, or if issued you must report to immigration every 30 days, i understand.
I enjoy riding around the country and usually buy a 3 month visa, so a pain.
Hopefully they will rethink.
 

 

The same dixx as everywhere in the world when concerning visa. These people do not deserve us.

 

Edited April 17, 2020 by gamesgplayemail

[GreasyFingers]

It was a Russian stronghold when I was there. Fat Russians on the beach and the restaurant menus were Vietnamese and Russian. All along the beach were square box condos out of the 1960/70 mould. No need to go back again but out of the city the country side is interesting.