The Mediterranean Diet Myth: Why Italy’s Food Isn’t as Healthy as It Seems

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The Mediterranean diet is celebrated worldwide as a gold standard of healthy eating. Yet, despite its reputation, Italy—one of its supposed birthplaces—is grappling with a growing crisis of childhood obesity and other diet-related health issues. The disconnect between perception and reality is stark, and as I savor ink-black spaghetti al nero di seppia, sip a bold Lamezia red, and drizzle olive oil over Calabrian ’nduja meatballs, I can’t help but wonder: Is the Mediterranean diet just a beautifully crafted illusion?  

 

 

“This cuisine dates back millennia,” boasts Antonio Montuoro, president of the International Academy of the Mediterranean Diet. But food is just one aspect of the Mediterranean lifestyle, he insists. “The other parts are the panorama, the beauty of nature, our historic centers, our heritage,” he says, gesturing toward the breathtaking Sicilian coastline, where the blue waters glisten under the sun. At 72, he exudes a serene confidence, wiping tomato sauce off his plate with a thick chunk of rustic bread.  

 

It’s a romantic notion, steeped in history and nostalgia. The problem? It doesn’t hold up to reality. The Mediterranean diet, as it was originally conceived, has been transformed by politics, commerce, and cultural shifts into something almost unrecognizable. It has become a mishmash of half-truths and marketing spin, manipulated for both political leverage and economic gain.  

 

The term was first coined by American physiologist Ancel Keys 50 years ago and later solidified when UNESCO declared it an "intangible cultural heritage of humanity" in 2010. But over time, the concept evolved—or perhaps devolved—into a branding tool. Today, the words “Mediterranean Diet” have become synonymous with “Mediterranean food,” as though anything Italians eat must be inherently healthy. Meanwhile, the reality of modern Italian eating habits tells a different story.  

 

Italy now faces one of the highest childhood obesity rates in the European Union. One in ten Italians drinks alcohol daily, and excessive salt consumption costs the nation more in health-related expenses than Spain, France, and Greece combined, according to a report by the United Nations’ Food and Agriculture Organization. The ideals of the Mediterranean diet—fresh produce, lean proteins, whole grains—are often replaced with heavily processed foods, sugary drinks, and an over-reliance on high-fat meats and cheeses.  

 

Politics has only exacerbated the problem. Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni has taken an aggressive stance in Brussels, resisting EU efforts to reduce meat consumption, introduce alcohol warnings, and implement a standardized nutrition label across the bloc. She argues that such measures unfairly target Italy’s food traditions, framing the issue as a cultural attack rather than a public health concern. Her rhetoric has fueled a wave of gastronationalism, rallying support for her Brothers of Italy party while allowing harmful dietary habits to persist.  

 

 

By the time UNESCO granted its recognition, the Mediterranean diet had already been hijacked for commercial purposes. In theory, UNESCO’s designation was meant to preserve cultural traditions, not create economic windfalls. In practice, it gave rise to one of the world’s most successful food brands. What was once a dietary philosophy emphasizing balance and moderation is now a marketing tool used to sell everything from olive oil to pasta, often without regard for nutritional value.  

 

The Mediterranean diet, as originally conceived, is no longer a way of life for many Italians. And yet, its myth endures. The world continues to celebrate an idea that no longer matches reality, while Italy grapples with the health consequences of a food culture that has drifted far from its roots. The Mediterranean diet is dead. Somebody should tell the Italians.

 

Based on a report by Politico 2025-02-05