Fluorescent Vs Incandescent Lighting?

[Crossy]

With my limited knowledge of electricity, I didn't know that one unit of the same wattage could draw more amps than another.

I just thought that amps=watts/voltage

So an 18W unit would draw 18/220 = 0.082 amps

So that would be if it had a power factor of 1

PF of 0.6 would draw 0.082/0.6, right?

Does it make any difference to the brightness?

The concept of Power Factor is one part of AC theory that is often difficult for the layman to come to terms with, after all, Watts is Volts x Amps isn't it? Actually, no it's not

Power Factor is the cosine of the phase angle between the voltage and current waveforms, in phase (0^o phase angle) gives a PF of 1 or unity. In this instance W actually does = V x A

Technical stuff here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor and there are many other web resources to tell you all about it. Enjoy

[gdhm]

Hello Crossy,

What is the difference between the ballasts, are the electronic ones marked in a different way? Are they a lot more expensive?

We have 2 lights on all night (18 Watts), so each light would use approx 1KWH in 4 days, maybe 7 or 8 units per month. Therefore each light would cost about 25 Baht per month to run. I would think that there would have to be a substantial % consumption drop to make it worthwhile.

Or is the only saving because the tubes will last longer?

Electronic ballasts have more connections than the 2 normally found on a magnetic ballast. They also tend to say "Electronic Ballast" on then (Duh ).

They look something like this (this is a 4 lamp ballast so it has a lot of connections). Cost is about 5-10 times of a magnetic, say 600 Baht. Price list here http://www.seven-a.com/download/files/PriceECG7A.pdf.

Crossy,

I purchased LAMPTAN Ballastronic electronic ballasts fo 32W circular ring fluorescent tubes from Global for 195 Baht each.

I recall they also sold them for strip lights but as far as cna recall nothing like 600 Baht closer to half that I think. I bought a complete LAMPTAN Fluorescent Twin 38W twin tube set incl. tubes, casing, fitting and Electronic Ballast (Ballastronic) inside for our kitchen back in September from Global for 565 Baht.

Works a treat when our voltage is down to 185 ish at night it fired up immediately and remains on flicker free. whilst our other 16 normal ballast ring tubes take 30 secs to 5 mins to fire up and often at such low voltage they fail to fully light up, or flicker with half brightness and go on and off. Just purchased 8 Ballastronic replacement uints for the important ones (such as bathroom and top bottom stairs. Hopefully our problems with these lights will soon be thing of the past as the Ballastronic is supposed to cope with a range of 150 - 250 Volts.

===

Update: Crossy you may recall I have serious Volt problems and you and others have advised me in the past.

Well hopefully after many false promises we think maybe this time the Electricity authority is now about to work on our problem. They said they had started further down the line last Monday and will work they way to us soon.

Cross fingers as night voltage has occasionally hit 175V for periods and 2 new houses in our Soi are now being built with another to start within the year.

MUst go no time to check post as PV on battery backup smae every nighnt now Bl++dy voltage

[loong]

Thanks for the info Re P.Factor - unfortunately nearly all of it is way beyond my understanding.

The way I see it is if you have a unit with a PF of 0.6 It costs exactly the same to run as a unit with PF 0.99 with the metering system here. However it actually costs the electricity company more to supply. Is that right?

Looking on the Fl tubes I can see no indication of PF at all. Only on the box for the Easyforlife.

[Crossy]

The way I see it is if you have a unit with a PF of 0.6 It costs exactly the same to run as a unit with PF 0.99 with the metering system here. However it actually costs the electricity company more to supply. Is that right?

Looking on the Fl tubes I can see no indication of PF at all. Only on the box for the Easyforlife.

Yes, you are metered on 'real' power so in a domestic situation there is no advantage to correcting a poor power factor unless using a genset or UPS to drive your lighting.

It's quite unusual to see PF quoted on fittings unless they are intended for industrial use.

[loong]

Yes, the Easyforlife unit is described as a commercial lighting sysyem.

[gdhm]

The way I see it is if you have a unit with a PF of 0.6 It costs exactly the same to run as a unit with PF 0.99 with the metering system here. However it actually costs the electricity company more to supply. Is that right?

Looking on the Fl tubes I can see no indication of PF at all. Only on the box for the Easyforlife.

Yes, you are metered on 'real' power so in a domestic situation there is no advantage to correcting a poor power factor unless using a genset or UPS to drive your lighting.

It's quite unusual to see PF quoted on fittings unless they are intended for industrial use.

Don't know if of interest but the data on the Lamptan 32W Ballastronic Electronic Ballast (195 Baht)

for 32W Circular tube includes PF and the following other details

POWER IN

LAMP : 1 x32W

W : 32W

V : 220 to 240

Hz : 50/60

A : 0.22

PF : 0.60 ± 0.05

t (°C) : -15 to 50

a

t (°C) : 80

c

regards

Dave

Edited May 2, 2009 by gdhm

[loong]

Hi all,

anyone who's interested I saw the Philips Easyforlife T5 electronic 14Watt in Tesco Lotus today. They've put the price up to 249 Baht each, but they are buy one get one free. So equivalent to 125 Baht each.

The 28W units are BOGOF as well.

[tatom]

I too am tired of changing starters and floesent tubes. In one room with a 32W circular tube, I disconected the ficture and wired in a pigtail (ficture for a screw-in bulb), and installed a compact forescent bulb. It seems like a good solution to me, but what do the experts think?

[Crossy]

I too am tired of changing starters and floesent tubes. In one room with a 32W circular tube, I disconected the ficture and wired in a pigtail (ficture for a screw-in bulb), and installed a compact forescent bulb. It seems like a good solution to me, but what do the experts think?

Why not install one of the cheap electronic ballasts in the existing circular fitting, no starter to fail and the tubes last longer too

[jessieblh]

As we know, European had decided to replace all incandescent lamp with energy saving lamp. What's the reason?

Compared with incandescent lamp, energy saving lamp have some advantages as below:

1. More energy saving, up to 80%. energy saving lamp 11W= incandescent lamp 55W.

2. Excellent color rendering and excellent light distribution, show things in its real color.

3. Varied Color Temp. choice from 2700K-6500K (mostly), make a comfortable bright environment.

4. Flicker free to protect your eyes.

5. More compact design, fit with most lighting fixtures.

6. Popular as General lighiting at home, restaurantes,hotels, office, lowbay and highbay, etc..

If you want to know more, do not hesitate to try it. You will be satisfyed after using it and stop buying incandescent lamp then.

My friend, any different ideas?