Sound Proofing Walls With Q-blocks?

[Tokay]

I have a townhouse project with some neighbors who are just a little too loud. I know you can add another wall layer of q-blocks along with some dead space between the two and kill much of the sound.

Have any of you done this before with great success? If so, what size blocks to add and how much space between the walls should I make?

Thanks!

[Tokay]

I should have added, if there is a better way, please post about it. I suppose you could do the same with drywall and some sort of insulation?

[trogers]

Add another 75mm layer of Q-con block with 50mm rock-wool (50kg/m3 density) should reduce sound transmission by 60dB.

Drywall does not have the mass as Q-con block. Suitable for improving insulation against heat, but not sound.

Edited July 26, 2009 by trogers

[Tokay]

Add another 75mm layer of Q-con block with 50mm rock-wool (50kg/m3 density) should reduce sound transmission by 60dB.

Drywall does not have the mass as Q-con block. Suitable for improving insulation against heat, but not sound.

Thanks.

Any idea how much air space between the walls?

I have found all sorts of info online about WOOD, but nothing about blocks.

[Benjie]

You can buy sound deadening sheets (fibre glass) and use them to build a room within a room with some gypsum/sheetrock.

[trogers]

Add another 75mm layer of Q-con block with 50mm rock-wool (50kg/m3 density) should reduce sound transmission by 60dB.

Drywall does not have the mass as Q-con block. Suitable for improving insulation against heat, but not sound.

Thanks.

Any idea how much air space between the walls?

I have found all sorts of info online about WOOD, but nothing about blocks.

The gap between existing and new wall is 50mm, but should be filled with the 50mm thick rock-wool instead of leaving it as an air pocket.

Cavity wall with 50mm air pocket is used primarily in cold countries for keeping warm in winter and catching condensation.

Rock-wool are those fiberglass insulation you see wrapping around air-con ducts in commercial buildings.

Edited July 26, 2009 by trogers

[sleepyjohn]

Add another 75mm layer of Q-con block with 50mm rock-wool (50kg/m3 density) should reduce sound transmission by 60dB.

Drywall does not have the mass as Q-con block. Suitable for improving insulation against heat, but not sound.

Actually I once sound insulated a long and high wall in the UK with high density anti-noise drywall two layers think and it had a fair effect, but anti-sound drywall in Thailand? Haha! The blocks would of course be better.

As for the gap the main thing is to have no mechanical connection between the sides to transfer sound energy, ie the sides are independently supported (which is what happened with my soundproof drywall which was hung on thin metal studs to save space which was critical and why i used drywall instead of something heavier.

Different frequencies are dulled by different materials but generally the heavier the better along with a gap. Light materials let bass through especially. It's possible that the "softness" of the Qblock may somewhat compensate for its light weight but I'd possibly opt for heavier like concrete. If your rooms are capacious why not use even thicker blocks though the 60dB quoted is a lot......

Good Luck.

Edited July 26, 2009 by sleepyjohn

[hansnl]

Add another 75mm layer of Q-con block with 50mm rock-wool (50kg/m3 density) should reduce sound transmission by 60dB.

Drywall does not have the mass as Q-con block. Suitable for improving insulation against heat, but not sound.

I used packing for eggs, the paper like stuff.

Glued those to the inside of a double wall of wood sheeting, at my side.

Worked very well

That packing has a proven sound deadening effect, and is much used in sound studios in Holland, and elsewhere I guess.

Edited July 27, 2009 by hansnl

[fremmel]

Here's a good discussion I ran across Controlling Sound Transmission through Concrete Block Walls.

Don't forget, to get the most effect out of what you do you have to continue the wall on up through the ceiling.

[katabeachbum]

A first and inexpensive solution is to remove all your electric outlets/switches in the common wall. Often your and your neighbors are in the same spot, leaving only 1 mm of plastic/sink and an electric plug between you. Plug the wholes and install new outlets/switches outside new plastering. Very effective.

[Tokay]

Excellent replies. Thanks again to all.

[Datsun240Z]

Add another 75mm layer of Q-con block with 50mm rock-wool (50kg/m3 density) should reduce sound transmission by 60dB.

Drywall does not have the mass as Q-con block. Suitable for improving insulation against heat, but not sound.

I used packing for eggs, the paper like stuff.

Glued those to the inside of a double wall of wood sheeting, at my side.

Worked very well

That packing has a proven sound deadening effect, and is much used in sound studios in Holland, and elsewhere I guess.

Yes, it works very well, but you can also buy the 1 x 1 m matts I believe. Anyhow, Rockwoll or Glasswoll is good for isolation, but not the sound much. Who needs isolation in a hot country?

[katabeachbum]

Add another 75mm layer of Q-con block with 50mm rock-wool (50kg/m3 density) should reduce sound transmission by 60dB.

Drywall does not have the mass as Q-con block. Suitable for improving insulation against heat, but not sound.

I used packing for eggs, the paper like stuff.

Glued those to the inside of a double wall of wood sheeting, at my side.

Worked very well

That packing has a proven sound deadening effect, and is much used in sound studios in Holland, and elsewhere I guess.

Yes, it works very well, but you can also buy the 1 x 1 m matts I believe. Anyhow, Rockwoll or Glasswoll is good for isolation, but not the sound much. Who needs isolation in a hot country?

I do. We use insulation in LOS to keep the heat out. Only insulating the ceiling properly reduces aircon costs with 30%.

A proper insulated room reduces powerbill with 60%, or lets say 1.000 baht a month if you want to keep 25 degrees inside.

In a villa without aircon, average inside day temp went from 31 to 28 degrees only by insulating the ceiling at 14.000 baht.

Edited August 5, 2009 by katabeachbum

[Datsun240Z]

Add another 75mm layer of Q-con block with 50mm rock-wool (50kg/m3 density) should reduce sound transmission by 60dB.

Drywall does not have the mass as Q-con block. Suitable for improving insulation against heat, but not sound.

I used packing for eggs, the paper like stuff.

Glued those to the inside of a double wall of wood sheeting, at my side.

Worked very well

That packing has a proven sound deadening effect, and is much used in sound studios in Holland, and elsewhere I guess.

Yes, it works very well, but you can also buy the 1 x 1 m matts I believe. Anyhow, Rockwoll or Glasswoll is good for isolation, but not the sound much. Who needs isolation in a hot country?

I do. We use insulation in LOS to keep the heat out. Only insulating the ceiling properly reduces aircon costs with 30%.

A proper insulated room reduces powerbill with 60%, or lets say 1.000 baht a month if you want to keep 25 degrees inside.

In a villa without aircon, average inside day temp went from 31 to 28 degrees only by insulating the ceiling at 14.000 baht.

Okay, If you look at the aircon part, I would agree with you.

[trogers]

Add another 75mm layer of Q-con block with 50mm rock-wool (50kg/m3 density) should reduce sound transmission by 60dB.

Drywall does not have the mass as Q-con block. Suitable for improving insulation against heat, but not sound.

I used packing for eggs, the paper like stuff.

Glued those to the inside of a double wall of wood sheeting, at my side.

Worked very well

That packing has a proven sound deadening effect, and is much used in sound studios in Holland, and elsewhere I guess.

Yes, it works very well, but you can also buy the 1 x 1 m matts I believe. Anyhow, Rockwoll or Glasswoll is good for isolation, but not the sound much. Who needs isolation in a hot country?

Rockwool or fibreglass insulation used around metal air-con ducts in commercial buildings are not just for thermal insulation. They are used also to absorb and dampen high frequency sounds of flowing air.

This property is being used in the cavity wall.

[sweeneythailand]

hi the art of sound insulation is this a new wall will work if it has no contact with the old wall a two inch gap but filled first as cement will conect the two walls bring your electrics though first .

next point how much is coming from the ceiling this can be the way the sound is transmitted ie ceilings are joined to the walls and are sheet ans sound like a drum you need to cut back the gypsum to fix this and run the new wall up above the ceiling and glass wool in the walls run over the ceiling this will also stop the heat from the walls .

termites love to eat wood and cardboard as well as plasterboard egg boxes wont work not in Thailand it will invite the pests to diner plasterboard is not good too as the termites eat it and use the plaster for there nests. all in all keep the works to solid brick or bloc any type will do as long as the gap is filled with glass to stop the vibrating sound out check the loft as you might find a hole to your nabours loft if so fill it and glass wool over the wall and the ceilings.

need any more advice on buildings im me

[trogers]

In townhouses, the wall between two homes should go right to the underside of the roof to comply with fire regulations and as a barrier against fire spread. The double wall should follow this wall to the top. Dampening sound at false ceiling may not be required.

But if the purpose is to seek sound insulation for just one room, then yes, sound dampening is required at ceiling, and possibily at windows if they are near to those of your neighbour's. Double wall need only to stop 10cm above ceiling level.

Edited August 5, 2009 by trogers