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Honda Cbr 250R 2011


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So you fail to see how a unit that is designed and made by a renowned Exhaust company, tested and improved on a dyno is any better than a Thai made unit that is manufactured in a shop house in Bkk, oh and never seen a dyno.........................ok then.

LOL, ok you are obviously a brand whore. Go ahead and waste your money big guy. Been there done that.

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Here is a link to a night video of my new Xenon projector.

The dyno test showed a 50% hp increase with this new lighting system. Could this be the Holy Grail? lol

Brian. How does it compare in light output to the normal light (actual light on the road) . As it doesn't look that impressive in your video. I have seen projector units before and they seemed to give MUCH more light on the road. (maybe it's ya camera)

I agree that the video doesn't look that impressive. I actually shot it with my mobile's camera. I haven't had a chance to do any night rides with it yet. I plan on taking it out after work tonight to test it out. I'll let you know how it is. If it's not good, I won't sell it.

Ok, so the mods can scold me if they want for posting the same thing in the 150 thread, but this vid by Brian touches on that as well, so here goes.

The 150 comes with a 30 watt bulb in the main light. While the lighting on the new 150 if vastly improved over the last one, I'm wondering if changing the bulb to a higher wattage will do much good. My Honda mech told me avoid Xenon as they burn too hot and can actually cause more harm than good. When I asked about switching to a 50 or 100 watt halogen, he just smiled and shrugged.

Any comments or suggestions. Well, the obvious one is "go ahead, try it and see what happens", but I'm looking for something a bit more than that. lol

the stock wiring harness can't handle the extra current when installing new bulbs. It will be good for about 3 months. Go with Osram bulbs.

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a new "N250",

But why would anyone buy one of those when they can get an ABS cbr250r with say, a remus or other quality brand pipe, and a set of quality tyres for the same price?

Hmmm let me see.

The Ninja has higher top end, superior handling, not f-ugly like the CBR, quicker from 50-60kph upwards, doesn't sound like a sewing machine, fantastic after sales service, not every Somchai in Bangkok has one - there's lots of reasons someone might opt for a Ninja. Some people choose bikes based on more than just the price tag.

If I was buying now I'd get a 650 before I even looked at either 250. When I bought in 2008 that choice wasn't there but 3 years with the lil' Ninja has been a joy. I have a moped to go shopping on.

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a new "N250",

But why would anyone buy one of those when they can get an ABS cbr250r with say, a remus or other quality brand pipe, and a set of quality tyres for the same price?

Hmmm let me see.

The Ninja has higher top end

Than a modded CBR, how do you know that?

superior handling,

On it's IRC's, and CBR on Pirellis?

not f-ugly like the CBR,

Odd, the n250 looks like a fat pregnant woman to me. :D but it is subjective.

quicker from 50-60kph upwards,

Than a modded CBR? interesting that you know this.

doesn't sound like a sewing machine,

The Remus and 2bros don't sound like that to me, but we all have different ears. :D

fantastic after sales service,

The Honda? Absolutely. Last few services I've been dealing with an American Honda man right here in Thailand!

not every Somchai in Bangkok has one

You must be seeing more than me.

- there's lots of reasons someone might opt for a Ninja. Some people choose bikes based on more than just the price tag.

You seem to have missed the point. That a bone stock green porker-for-posers is no deal compared to an ABS CBR250R with over 30,000thb worth of mods, thus price outlaw being the same. :rolleyes:

If I was buying now I'd get a 650 before I even looked at either 250. When I bought in 2008 that choice wasn't there but 3 years with the lil' Ninja has been a joy. I have a moped to go shopping on.

Really depends on one's riding needs. Going through BKK twice a day might become not so enjoyable, a lot quicker on a larger bike.

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a new "N250",

But why would anyone buy one of those when they can get an ABS cbr250r with say, a remus or other quality brand pipe, and a set of quality tyres for the same price?

Hmmm let me see.

The Ninja has higher top end

Than a modded CBR, how do you know that?

superior handling,

On it's IRC's, and CBR on Pirellis?

not f-ugly like the CBR,

Odd, the n250 looks like a fat pregnant woman to me. :D but it is subjective.

quicker from 50-60kph upwards,

Than a modded CBR? interesting that you know this.

doesn't sound like a sewing machine,

The Remus and 2bros don't sound like that to me, but we all have different ears. :D

fantastic after sales service,

The Honda? Absolutely. Last few services I've been dealing with an American Honda man right here in Thailand!

not every Somchai in Bangkok has one

You must be seeing more than me.

- there's lots of reasons someone might opt for a Ninja. Some people choose bikes based on more than just the price tag.

You seem to have missed the point. That a bone stock green porker-for-posers is no deal compared to an ABS CBR250R with over 30,000thb worth of mods, thus price outlaw being the same. :rolleyes:

If I was buying now I'd get a 650 before I even looked at either 250. When I bought in 2008 that choice wasn't there but 3 years with the lil' Ninja has been a joy. I have a moped to go shopping on.

Really depends on one's riding needs. Going through BKK twice a day might become not so enjoyable, a lot quicker on a larger bike.

Didn't we have another thread where we're supposed to slag off on these two baby sport bikes?

Anyway- I think we'll agree that the IRC tires that come standard on both bikes aren't the greatest. For folks who are just using the bike as an economical commuter the stock IRC are cheap and long lasting and will get the job done just fine if not pushed too hard.

Yes, the Kawasaki Ninja 250R is slightly more expensive, but it's also a better bike. How much will you have to spend modding your CB"R" 250 just to MATCH the performance of the Ninjette?

Touching on some other points-

Handling- the reviews have been pretty consistent in saying that the race proven frame and suspension of the Ninjette are more capable than the soft and undersprung noob-friendly CB"R". Put the same tires on both bikes and leave the suspension completely stock and the Ninjette will outcorner the CB"R" easily. Gotta give Honda credit for being the first to introduce ABS to baby sport bikes though- bravo to Honda for that one!

Looks- completely subjective of course. Neither bike really knocks my socks off looks-wise.

Speed- yes, we all know the CB"R" has more torque and the Ninjette has more HP. That makes the CB"R" easier for noobs to ride and perhaps makes it an easier city bike, while the top end advantage that the Ninjette enjoys makes it better suited for highway and track ;)

After Sales Service... More dealers does NOT necessarily mean better service. We've heard a few stories on this forum from CB"R" owners who've had problems with their bikes and the dealers they purchased the bikes from weren't able to repair the bikes which required sending the bikes back to the factory... Amongst the motorcycle enthusiasts I know the new CB"R" has already earned a reputation as a "fragile" bike. All you ever have to do with the Ninjette is keep up with scheduled maintenance. The venerable EX250 has earned a reputation for bullet proof reliability. Verdict is still out on the new Honda...

The "Everyone else has one so mine's not special" argument falls a bit flat... Neither bike is anything rare or exotic. Sure, I expect Honda will sell more CB"R"s in Thailand than Kawasaki does Ninjette's on account of the Honda's lower price.

The comment about the Ninjette being a "poser" bike is a bit odd, considering that right out of the box the Ninjette IS the sportier of the two. IMO it's the the CB"R" thumper that is trying to pose as a sport bike, when in fact it's really more of a general all purpose CB 250 just dressed up to look like a sport bike.

Finally, splitting traffic on a 250 or a 650 really isn't much different except that on the 650 you're off the lights way faster leaving the scooters and traffic behind, at least until the next light. The Kawa 650's are very narrow thanks to their compact twins. Have you ever sat on one or ridden one? I believe the Kawa ER6n and Ninja 650R are hardly any wider than a stock CB"R" 250. Assuming you fold in your mirrors for lane splitting the widest point on the bikes are the handlebars and I think the width of the 650 and 250 handlebars are nearly identical.

Personally I don't enjoy riding in the city- sucking fumes and dodging bent coppers just isn't much fun IMO. I'm much more comfortable getting around Bangkok in the safety and comfort of my air conditioned car, but if I had to commute in the city on two wheels I'd get something more suited to urban riding like the Kawasaki D-Tracker or the new Tiger X-Road. These naked motard-style bikes with their tall bars and longer travel suspension are much better suited to hopping curbs, absorbing potholes and squeezing through tight spaces than the faired Ninjette and CB"R" with all their shiny plastics just waiting to get scratched and dinged.

I said it in the other thread and I'll repeat it here- the CBR is a better learner bike and it may be a slightly more fuel efficient bike The Ninjette is also very noob-friendly but you won't outgrow it as fast thanks to the additional power and superior handling. There's nothing wrong with either bike- buy whatever turns you on and don't get your panties in a bunch when someone like me gives you a hard time about it. If you like your bike then that is ALL that really matters, isn't it?

Happy Trails!

Edited by BigBikeBKK
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I wouldn't recomend going with a higher wattage bulb. You will probably burn the socket out. Xenon lighting systems, if not done properly, can cause a lot of problems as well. My mechanics seem to think that the system they installed on my bike yesterday was of high quality. When we have a new part or accessory for the CBR 250, we test it out on my bike to see if it is of good quality before we sell to our customers. I'll keep you updated and let you know how it goes. In the meantime perhaps other forum members could share their experience with xenon lighting systems.

Not thinking of xenon, as I understand the problems that can cause, only from going from a 30 watt to say a 50 watt for just a bit more illumination, especially in the mountains. To my way of thinking - which could be totally flawed, I admit - it would be the same as changing a 30w light bulb in your house to a 50w bulb for better lighting. Correct me if I'm wrong.

When you change to a higher wattage bulb in your home there is no problem, because it is in the open and not in an enclosed space like a motorcycle headlight. We have had many cases of customers changing to higher wattage bulbs and burning out their sockets. I came across a website that had this to say about overheating bulbs:

Reasons for Overheated Headlights:

How hot a headlight gets, depends of course on bulb, headlight design, and running conditions. If it's 100 degrees out and your sitting in traffic with your 100 watt bulb burning and your engine smoking hot, your bulb could overheat. Some makes of bulbs tend to overheat more than others. Some bike designs get hotter than others. If you want to run a very high watt bulb, then you must be aware of the extra heat, and take precautions to avoid having a heat problem. On some models, this might mean turning your light off when not moving in a traffic-jam, or providing more ventilation for the bulb. Or using something like a 55/100 watt bulb instead of a 90/100.

I hope this helps. Best of luck.

It s more to it

The wires to your 30 watt baoynnette bulb is dimensioned for 30 watt. actuall not even that as your battery leaves 13,8-14,5 volt while engine running, and at your lightbulb socket you are not likely to find more than required by law, 12,75 volt. so stock wires are actually to small for 30 watt, had they been more beefy you would have no loss of voltage on bulb socket, IOW same as battery.

Firts step to achieve more light on limited budget is to use existing wiring to control a relay bringing power from battery in 2,5mm2 wires. Provides same voltage at lightbulbsocket as on battery, providing approx 30% more light (and shorter lifetime for bulb). I do this on all cars and bikes with Halogen light, for cars plug and play kits are sold at like 400 baht

These bayonnette moped lights do not have accurate light patterns, so more light will blind others. Larger bulb will provide more light in combination with above improvement to cables, but likely to burn reflector.

A xenon/HID bulb should be used in halogen socket only, as it needs more accurate light pattern to not blind others. a true projector is the best way to create a correct non blinding light pattern, and thus prefered for HID/xenon.

A 35watt xenon provides approx double the lux (light) of a 55/60 watt halogen, and half the heat in reflector. powerconsumption is approx same as the 55/60 Halogen, as some power is lost in HID/xenon ballast/transformer

going from 30 watt bayonette to 35 watt HID/xenon provides approx 3 times the lux (light) and a more exact light pattern. It blinds others less. You will be surpised you ever dared to ride after dark with the old light :)

at home we replace our old 60 watt lightbulbs with energy saving 11 watt providing exact same amount of light. In short, xenon/HID is similar. Using HID/xenon there is no need to improve wiring, as the high voltage can push power through and size of wire

In most other markets 250cc bikes can not be sold with these crappy bayonette 30watt moped lights, Halogene needed, but for the Thai market they are legal and I bet both kwaker d-tracker and honda save 300 baht a bike supplying these candle lights

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Wow Tony, you're in a good mood! You are even making sense! :P

Yes I also tend to agree.

Honda emphasis seems to be more and more fuel economy. How much am I gonna save using the Honda in fuel costs per week? In Thailand where they use these things a primary mode of transport fuel economy is going to play into the equation just a little more then weekend warrior down at the track. The Ninja 650 may indeed be the same size and weigh more but costs 3 times the money up front and consumes four times the fuel. blink.gifjap.gif

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Hi Guys! 

Are fairings for CBR 250 and 150 are already available locally thier in Thailand ? If yes, where can i buy  ? I need to replace my right middle cowl and my front signal lights both L&R for my CBR 150 FI.

Thanks

CBRJC

Ride safe

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Hi Guys!

Are fairings for CBR 250 and 150 are already available locally thier in Thailand ? If yes, where can i buy ? I need to replace my right middle cowl and my front signal lights both L&R for my CBR 150 FI.

Thanks

CBRJC

Ride safe

go a few posts back to member Sumetcycle post. Click his name, send him a message and you have found a supplier of Honda AP parts :)

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The Ninja 650 may indeed be the same size and weigh more but costs 3 times the money up front and consumes four times the fuel.

Actually, wrong thread I know but, from reading the cbr usually averages 27-33 kmpl depending on type of use. I think most people with the cbr will consider moving up to one of the Kawa650s at some stage. What are the usual kmpl on the Er-6n, what two numbers will it usually fall between?

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The Ninja 650 may indeed be the same size and weigh more but costs 3 times the money up front and consumes four times the fuel.

Actually, wrong thread I know but, from reading the cbr usually averages 27-33 kmpl depending on type of use. I think most people with the cbr will consider moving up to one of the Kawa650s at some stage. What are the usual kmpl on the Er-6n, what two numbers will it usually fall between?

15-25 km/liter, Gasohol E10, real life figures, zero one tripmeter at every fill up

four times the fuel??555, double the fuel while cbr250 at 120kmh and 650 at 200kmh :)

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Not the right thread I know, but the CBR (or mine at least) doesnt like E10. Would cut out after 10 seconds if sitting for over an hour and feels way better on Benzine. The manual also warns quite strongly not to use anything above 10% E or alcho mixtures, and I don't always trust Thai products to be exactly as advertised.

So wrong thread, but how well does the Er-6n run on E10?

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Not the right thread I know, but the CBR (or mine at least) doesnt like E10. Would cut out after 10 seconds if sitting for over an hour and feels way better on Benzine. The manual also warns quite strongly not to use anything above 10% E or alcho mixtures, and I don't always trust Thai products to be exactly as advertised.

So wrong thread, but how well does the Er-6n run on E10?

well as you said wrong thread as you will probably only get my reply here, but can not notice any difference between petrol and E10 in my two Ninja 650R. E10 keeps injection and combustion chamber cleaner, and as no disadvantage I mostly use it

my 2005 Honda VTX 1800cc v-twin had major problems after only one tank of E10

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Brian if it's a true projector then if you aim it at a wall the light should pretty much cut off in a line. it's this which makes them good because you do not get the glare to other drivers (if set up properly)

I tried it out last night. How does this look?

Thanks again.

Brian

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Not the right thread I know, but the CBR (or mine at least) doesnt like E10. Would cut out after 10 seconds if sitting for over an hour and feels way better on Benzine. The manual also warns quite strongly not to use anything above 10% E or alcho mixtures, and I don't always trust Thai products to be exactly as advertised.

So wrong thread, but how well does the Er-6n run on E10?

All the Thai manufactured Kawasaki's are designed to run on E10 and I've never been able to measure a difference in mileage or performance when switching from Gasoline 91, Gasohol 91 E10 or Gasohol 95 E10. I seem to average about 16-17 kilometers per liter on my ER6n, Ninja 650R and Versys.

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Didn't we have another thread where we're supposed to slag off on these two baby sport bikes?

Anyway- I think we'll agree that the IRC tires that come standard on both bikes aren't the greatest. For folks who are juist using the bike as an economical commuter the stock IRC are cheap and long lasting and will get the job done just fine if not pushed too hard.

Yes, the Kawasaki Ninja 250R is slightly more expensive, but it's also a better bike. How much will you have to spend modding your CB"R" 250 just to MATCH the performance of the Ninjette?

Touching on some other points-

Handling- the reviews have been pretty consistent in saying that the race proven frame and suspension of the Ninjette are more capable than the soft and undersprung noob-friendly CB"R". Put the same tires on both bikes and leave the suspension completely stock and the Ninjette will outcorner the CB"R" easily. Gotta give Honda credit for being the first to introduce ABS to baby sport bikes though- bravo to Honda for that one!

Looks- completely subjective of course. Neither bike really knocks my socks off looks-wise.

Speed- yes, we all know the CB"R" has more torque and the Ninjette has more HP. That makes the CB"R" easier for noobs to ride and perhaps makes it an easier city bike, while the top end advantage that the Ninjette enjoys makes it better suited for highway and track ;)

After Sales Service... More dealers does NOT necessarily mean better service. We've heard a few stories on this forum from CB"R" owners who've had problems with their bikes and the dealers they purchased the bikes from weren't able to repair the bikes which required sending the bikes back to the factory... Amongst the motorcycle enthusiasts I know the new CB"R" has already earned a reputation as a "fragile" bike. All you ever have to do with the Ninjette is keep up with scheduled maintenance. The venerable EX250 has earned a reputation for bullet proof reliability. Verdict is still out on the new Honda...

The "Everyone else has one so mine's not special" argument falls a bit flat... Neither bike is anything rare or exotic. Sure, I expect Honda will sell more CB"R"s in Thailand than Kawasaki does Ninjette's on account of the Honda's lower price.

The comment about the Ninjette being a "poser" bike is a bit odd, considering that right out of the box the Ninjette IS the sportier of the two. IMO it's the the CB"R" thumper that is trying to pose as a sport bike, when in fact it's really more of a general all purpose CB 250 just dressed up to look like a sport bike.

Finally, splitting traffic on a 250 or a 650 really isn't much different except that on the 650 you're off the lights way faster leaving the scooters and traffic behind, at least until the next light. The Kawa 650's are very narrow thanks to their compact twins. Have you ever sat on one or ridden one? I believe the Kawa ER6n and Ninja 650R are hardly any wider than a stock CB"R" 250. Assuming you fold in your mirrors for lane splitting the widest point on the bikes are the handlebars and I think the width of the 650 and 250 handlebars are nearly identical.

Personally I don't enjoy riding in the city- sucking fumes and dodging bent coppers just isn't much fun IMO. I'm much more comfortable getting around Bangkok in the safety and comfort of my air conditioned car, but if I had to commute in the city on two wheels I'd get something more suited to urban riding like the Kawasaki D-Tracker or the new Tiger X-Road. These naked motard-style bikes with their tall bars and longer travel suspension are much better suited to hopping curbs, absorbing potholes and squeezing through tight spaces than the faired Ninjette and CB"R" with all their shiny plastics just waiting to get scratched and dinged.

I said it in the other thread and I'll repeat it here- the CBR is a better learner bike and it may be a slightly more fuel efficient bike The Ninjette is also very noob-friendly but you won't outgrow it as fast thanks to the additional power and superior handling. There's nothing wrong with either bike- buy whatever turns you on and don't get your panties in a bunch when someone like me gives you a hard time about it. If you like your bike then that is ALL that really matters, isn't it?

Happy Trails!

Good points. I definitely agree that a motard type bike is more suited for urban utility, especially here. BTW, where did you hide the real Tony? :D

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I tried it out last night. How does this look?

Thanks again.

Brian

now that looks different. you can burn a hole into the night with that one. i guess you must be quite satisfied...:)

thanks for all your good efforts here by the way

happy trails

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Not the right thread I know, but the CBR (or mine at least) doesnt like E10. Would cut out after 10 seconds if sitting for over an hour and feels way better on Benzine. The manual also warns quite strongly not to use anything above 10% E or alcho mixtures, and I don't always trust Thai products to be exactly as advertised.

So wrong thread, but how well does the Er-6n run on E10?

All the Thai manufactured Kawasaki's are designed to run on E10 and I've never been able to measure a difference in mileage or performance when switching from Gasoline 91, Gasohol 91 E10 or Gasohol 95 E10. I seem to average about 16-17 kilometers per liter on my ER6n, Ninja 650R and Versys.

yes that's about what my Isuzu P/U does...giggle.gif

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now that looks different. you can burn a hole into the night with that one. i guess you must be quite satisfied...:)

thanks for all your good efforts here by the way

happy trails

Yes, I am very happy with it so far. Thank you for your kind words.

Brian

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Brian. the standard Cbr headlight bulb is a H3 halogen....correct, But what wattage is it.

only road legal H3 halogen is 55/60, IOW 55 watt low beam and 60 watt high beam. but does cbr250 come with H3 in Thailand, or does it come with the silly 30 watt bayonette bulb like Dtracker 250 and cbr150?

if it does come with H3, there is no need for expensive projector, simply replace halogen with HID/xenon 35 watt and plug ballast, providing double amount of light

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I wouldn't recomend going with a higher wattage bulb. You will probably burn the socket out. Xenon lighting systems, if not done properly, can cause a lot of problems as well. My mechanics seem to think that the system they installed on my bike yesterday was of high quality. When we have a new part or accessory for the CBR 250, we test it out on my bike to see if it is of good quality before we sell to our customers. I'll keep you updated and let you know how it goes. In the meantime perhaps other forum members could share their experience with xenon lighting systems.

Not thinking of xenon, as I understand the problems that can cause, only from going from a 30 watt to say a 50 watt for just a bit more illumination, especially in the mountains. To my way of thinking - which could be totally flawed, I admit - it would be the same as changing a 30w light bulb in your house to a 50w bulb for better lighting. Correct me if I'm wrong.

When you change to a higher wattage bulb in your home there is no problem, because it is in the open and not in an enclosed space like a motorcycle headlight. We have had many cases of customers changing to higher wattage bulbs and burning out their sockets. I came across a website that had this to say about overheating bulbs:

Reasons for Overheated Headlights:

How hot a headlight gets, depends of course on bulb, headlight design, and running conditions. If it's 100 degrees out and your sitting in traffic with your 100 watt bulb burning and your engine smoking hot, your bulb could overheat. Some makes of bulbs tend to overheat more than others. Some bike designs get hotter than others. If you want to run a very high watt bulb, then you must be aware of the extra heat, and take precautions to avoid having a heat problem. On some models, this might mean turning your light off when not moving in a traffic-jam, or providing more ventilation for the bulb. Or using something like a 55/100 watt bulb instead of a 90/100.

I hope this helps. Best of luck.

It s more to it

The wires to your 30 watt baoynnette bulb is dimensioned for 30 watt. actuall not even that as your battery leaves 13,8-14,5 volt while engine running, and at your lightbulb socket you are not likely to find more than required by law, 12,75 volt. so stock wires are actually to small for 30 watt, had they been more beefy you would have no loss of voltage on bulb socket, IOW same as battery.

Firts step to achieve more light on limited budget is to use existing wiring to control a relay bringing power from battery in 2,5mm2 wires. Provides same voltage at lightbulbsocket as on battery, providing approx 30% more light (and shorter lifetime for bulb). I do this on all cars and bikes with Halogen light, for cars plug and play kits are sold at like 400 baht

These bayonnette moped lights do not have accurate light patterns, so more light will blind others. Larger bulb will provide more light in combination with above improvement to cables, but likely to burn reflector.

A xenon/HID bulb should be used in halogen socket only, as it needs more accurate light pattern to not blind others. a true projector is the best way to create a correct non blinding light pattern, and thus prefered for HID/xenon.

A 35watt xenon provides approx double the lux (light) of a 55/60 watt halogen, and half the heat in reflector. powerconsumption is approx same as the 55/60 Halogen, as some power is lost in HID/xenon ballast/transformer

going from 30 watt bayonette to 35 watt HID/xenon provides approx 3 times the lux (light) and a more exact light pattern. It blinds others less. You will be surpised you ever dared to ride after dark with the old light :)

at home we replace our old 60 watt lightbulbs with energy saving 11 watt providing exact same amount of light. In short, xenon/HID is similar. Using HID/xenon there is no need to improve wiring, as the high voltage can push power through and size of wire

In most other markets 250cc bikes can not be sold with these crappy bayonette 30watt moped lights, Halogene needed, but for the Thai market they are legal and I bet both kwaker d-tracker and honda save 300 baht a bike supplying these candle lights

Ok, if I'm reading this right, and I may not be, are you saying I can replace the stock bulb with a 35watt HID/xenon and not have to make changes, etc, to the wiring?

I may be an expert in some things, but in others..................ok, we won't go there.

Edited by Just1Voice
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Brian. the standard Cbr headlight bulb is a H3 halogen....correct, But what wattage is it.

In the parts manual it is listed as a 12V 35/35W bulb. They have the code HS1 next to it. Nothing about H3 though.

Edited by SumetCycle
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