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Ford Ranger T6 2.2 Tdci


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Some pictures of the rust on the injectors. Ford have come back and said that it will not affect the injector or running of the car in anyway, but not nice to see all the same.

Also, shows the plastic cover that is the cause of the rust, or water getting into the bay.

post-80555-0-09484400-1352950931_thumb.j

post-80555-0-05689200-1352950942_thumb.j

post-80555-0-59908500-1352950954_thumb.j

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Some pictures of the rust on the injectors. Ford have come back and said that it will not affect the injector or running of the car in anyway, but not nice to see all the same.

Also, shows the plastic cover that is the cause of the rust, or water getting into the bay.

post-80555-0-09484400-1352950931_thumb.j

post-80555-0-05689200-1352950942_thumb.j

post-80555-0-59908500-1352950954_thumb.j

How about the resale value?

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Some pictures of the rust on the injectors. Ford have come back and said that it will not affect the injector or running of the car in anyway, but not nice to see all the same.

Also, shows the plastic cover that is the cause of the rust, or water getting into the bay.

post-80555-0-09484400-1352950931_thumb.j

post-80555-0-05689200-1352950942_thumb.j

post-80555-0-59908500-1352950954_thumb.j

How about the resale value?

You're not wrong there, but my Wildtrak just went up 50K so I'm not doing to sad thumbsup.gif

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I am just back from a holiday in Thailand and I visited my dealer(car) down south. He informed me that my WT 3.2 will be ready sometime Feb 13 this was ordered August 12 . He told us that the problem with supplying the Australian market is sorted and they will be making a big effort to supply the Thai market from January. When we were driving from Chumphon to Huahin a few WT passed us and I have to say best looking truck out there but maybe I am biased !!

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I am just back from a holiday in Thailand and I visited my dealer(car) down south. He informed me that my WT 3.2 will be ready sometime Feb 13 this was ordered August 12 . He told us that the problem with supplying the Australian market is sorted and they will be making a big effort to supply the Thai market from January. When we were driving from Chumphon to Huahin a few WT passed us and I have to say best looking truck out there but maybe I am biased !!

Have you driven a wildtrak ?

I have an XLT and yesterday I drove a Wildtrak. the seats felt horrible compared to the XLT.

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Have you driven a wildtrak ?

I drove a test Wildtrak back in April I did not notice anything!! They are bucket seats so

I suppose that would make them firmer but I drive a Ford here in Ireland and I did not

notice. But I was more interested in the other toys are you happy with the XLT?

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Dropped by the Udon Ford dealer yesterday to get my plates. I counted 4 or 5 WT's all dressed up an awaiting new owner collection on the forecourt.

I have +14.5km on the odometer already so due for the first service some time this month. I read in earlier threads about people bringing their Ranger's in much earlier for that first service. Have any new owners here gone by the book and got the first service as scheduled by the maker at 15km? I recall the price for the techie oil in itself was in excess of 3000 baht. Is that about right?

So far I have no complaints and find the truck OK for getting around town and very good for the long-haul runs. Never hauled any loads so the 2.2 6AT delivers what I need. I did have a gripe about a squeaking drivers seat but found out that my fat arse presses down on the seat-height adjustment lever when I get in so eventually there's a metal-on-metal contact on the lowest setting somewhere, hence the squeak. One or two pulls on the seat-height adjustment sorts this but I may need to find where the contact is and bung some rubber stops in there. The aircon works great and cools the hot cab rapidly but could do with a speed setting between the current 0 and 1 since night driving can get chilly and noisy if you start closing the facia vents. I bought and fitted an after-market back-up camera with the LCD screen built into the rear-view mirror. Although it doesn't have the calibrated graticules of the OEM fitted system, I have stopped clouting the bamboo stands on the plantation now! I didn't see any rusty nuts when I was underneath doing that installation but I think that is much ado about nothing IMHO.

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Where can i get angel eyes from? Ive seen pictures of Rangers from Thailand with them. Is there any sites or anything?

http://bankkin.com/index.php

R-Style in MBK also have a range of complete replacement units..

25551112172606551112001.jpg

25551112172606551112004.jpg

http://www.fordfiesta-club.com/Club/ford.fiesta.club.classifieds.oe/11194-one.stop.service.xenon.ccfl.projector.car.wrapa.ua.sa.za-21.html

I get all my lighting done at Hi Tech on Puttamonton Sai 2 - just off the Petkasem Road end - their work, prices and attention to detail is considerably superior to Bankkin's (at least on Rama 4) but it is 25km outside of Bangkok

Edited by 2unique
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Where can i get angel eyes from? Ive seen pictures of Rangers from Thailand with them. Is there any sites or anything?

You check for HID lights . Many many car shops have the light upgrades to any kind of style ( LED , HID , angel eyes ... )

On the internet ...

แสงรถยนต์hid , or other ... but i'm pretty sure you will find what you look for .

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Apart from looking cool and sexy, does HID lighting give any better illumination of the road ahead at night? From some bikers I have spoken with, they hate these after-market HID kits as the blue-white brilliance is annoying, particularly if the oncoming HID-kitted car is on a rough surface. Maybe they are improperly adjusted? This gives the annoying semblance of jumping between dipped and high beam. But from the users point of view, does HID light actually illuminate the road ahead any better? I read somewhere that the frequency of HID blue-white light actually penetrates the darkness less than conventional quartz-halogen yellow-white beams.

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Apart from looking cool and sexy, does HID lighting give any better illumination of the road ahead at night? From some bikers I have spoken with, they hate these after-market HID kits as the blue-white brilliance is annoying, particularly if the oncoming HID-kitted car is on a rough surface. Maybe they are improperly adjusted? This gives the annoying semblance of jumping between dipped and high beam. But from the users point of view, does HID light actually illuminate the road ahead any better? I read somewhere that the frequency of HID blue-white light actually penetrates the darkness less than conventional quartz-halogen yellow-white beams.

The key or problem is 4300k (color range of bulbs) produce the best quality of light for driving and our eyes to see distances and perform the best in bad weather conditions. After 4700k the color starts to shift to more blue and 5000k-6000k are very blue with 7000k-8000k being more purple. 5000k and up are not suitable for rainy or foggy conditions. Some off set these problems by increasing the output of the bulb which causes high glare return. Bulb manufacturers warn about using colors above 4700k for driving in rain or fog. I installed Osram Bilux Off-road 80w/100w bulbs 4300k-w/UV filter for 150 baht each. Off-road bulbs are legal to use in Thailand and do not require any other changes. At night I can see clearly in any weather condition with 50% more light and other drivers do not flash me when driving with my lows on. The highs are another story, they light up the night to an amazing level. Osram makes off-road you can buy in Thailand in either 90/100w or 80w/100w, I choose 80/100w because the new low is only 15 watts higher than the old high out-put of 65w. After two months of driving I am 100% happy with the light output, driving characteristics and price. Much better than messing around with all the other options for 300 baht total and 4 minutes to install.

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Apart from looking cool and sexy, does HID lighting give any better illumination of the road ahead at night? From some bikers I have spoken with, they hate these after-market HID kits as the blue-white brilliance is annoying, particularly if the oncoming HID-kitted car is on a rough surface. Maybe they are improperly adjusted? This gives the annoying semblance of jumping between dipped and high beam. But from the users point of view, does HID light actually illuminate the road ahead any better? I read somewhere that the frequency of HID blue-white light actually penetrates the darkness less than conventional quartz-halogen yellow-white beams.

The key or problem is 4300k (color range of bulbs) produce the best quality of light for driving and our eyes to see distances and perform the best in bad weather conditions. After 4700k the color starts to shift to more blue and 5000k-6000k are very blue with 7000k-8000k being more purple. 5000k and up are not suitable for rainy or foggy conditions. Some off set these problems by increasing the output of the bulb which causes high glare return. Bulb manufacturers warn about using colors above 4700k for driving in rain or fog. I installed Osram Bilux Off-road 80w/100w bulbs 4300k-w/UV filter for 150 baht each. Off-road bulbs are legal to use in Thailand and do not require any other changes. At night I can see clearly in any weather condition with 50% more light and other drivers do not flash me when driving with my lows on. The highs are another story, they light up the night to an amazing level. Osram makes off-road you can buy in Thailand in either 90/100w or 80w/100w, I choose 80/100w because the new low is only 15 watts higher than the old high out-put of 65w. After two months of driving I am 100% happy with the light output, driving characteristics and price. Much better than messing around with all the other options for 300 baht total and 4 minutes to install.

Excellent info and sort of confirms what I have seen from inside an HID kitted vehicle; the cool blue certainly looks brighter close up but doesn't have real penetration and is not recommended for rain.

I always thought the factory-fitted lights in my other car (2009 Honda CR-V) were below par and replaced them with some brighter GE branded ones I picked up in the US. That gave a much brighter night driving experience although the wife reckons she gets flashed at when driving after dark around town. Since I also thought the headlights in the new Ranger was less than I liked, I replaced them with Halfords Ultra-Brilliance (on headlights) and Extreme Brilliance (on fog lights) that I bought in the UK. Much better at night and I do get the odd oncoming driver flashing me when I am on low-beam. A quick flash of high-beam sets them right. I also picked up some Osram Night Breaker and Philips X-treme Vision bulbs but I haven't tried them yet. These two were based on recommendations for brightness and lifespan for street-legal bulbs. I do a lot of long distance, night driving in Thailand and I like to see and be seen rather than just look pretty. Maybe that's the problem with the wife!

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Apart from looking cool and sexy, does HID lighting give any better illumination of the road ahead at night? From some bikers I have spoken with, they hate these after-market HID kits as the blue-white brilliance is annoying, particularly if the oncoming HID-kitted car is on a rough surface. Maybe they are improperly adjusted? This gives the annoying semblance of jumping between dipped and high beam. But from the users point of view, does HID light actually illuminate the road ahead any better? I read somewhere that the frequency of HID blue-white light actually penetrates the darkness less than conventional quartz-halogen yellow-white beams.

HID Xenon is definitely brighter than any halogen - but if retrofitted into a reflector style housing that was designed for halogens, the beam pattern will blow out, and you'll end up blinding oncoming drivers, and losing a lot of light output through the sides as well.

The aftermarket lamps posted above have projectors - these will maintain the correct beam pattern no matter how bright the bulbs inside get (well, assuming they're not utter junk).

As noted, 4300 Kelvin is the optimum color for best overall visibility in night conditions, and 3000 Kelvin is the best for visibility in fog. the 5000K+ blue-to-purple spectrum bulbs can defeat the purpose of fitting Xenon's in the first place...

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Apart from looking cool and sexy, does HID lighting give any better illumination of the road ahead at night? From some bikers I have spoken with, they hate these after-market HID kits as the blue-white brilliance is annoying, particularly if the oncoming HID-kitted car is on a rough surface. Maybe they are improperly adjusted? This gives the annoying semblance of jumping between dipped and high beam. But from the users point of view, does HID light actually illuminate the road ahead any better? I read somewhere that the frequency of HID blue-white light actually penetrates the darkness less than conventional quartz-halogen yellow-white beams.

HID definitely give better light.

I have noticed the jumping effect mentioned as well. HID lights often have leveling systems, not sure if this is always the case in LOS. Wonder if it is the car moving on the suspension causing the light beam to swing or the leveling system not countering this as it is supposed to?

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HID lights often have leveling systems, not sure if this is always the case in LOS.

If the OEM Xenons have auto-levelling there's a 99% chance they'll also have headlamp washers. Conversely, if the car doesn't have headlamp washers, there's a 1% it will have auto-levelling headlights... so it's the easy way to tell, for recent model cars anyway ;)

(all markets that have updated their design reg's requiring auto-levelling for xenon's also require headlamp washers)

Generally speaking the auto-levelling happens only at ignition, it's not still adjusting while actually driving.

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Dropped by the Udon Ford dealer yesterday to get my plates. I counted 4 or 5 WT's all dressed up an awaiting new owner collection on the forecourt.

I have +14.5km on the odometer already so due for the first service some time this month. I read in earlier threads about people bringing their Ranger's in much earlier for that first service. Have any new owners here gone by the book and got the first service as scheduled by the maker at 15km? I recall the price for the techie oil in itself was in excess of 3000 baht. Is that about right?

So far I have no complaints and find the truck OK for getting around town and very good for the long-haul runs. Never hauled any loads so the 2.2 6AT delivers what I need. I did have a gripe about a squeaking drivers seat but found out that my fat arse presses down on the seat-height adjustment lever when I get in so eventually there's a metal-on-metal contact on the lowest setting somewhere, hence the squeak. One or two pulls on the seat-height adjustment sorts this but I may need to find where the contact is and bung some rubber stops in there. The aircon works great and cools the hot cab rapidly but could do with a speed setting between the current 0 and 1 since night driving can get chilly and noisy if you start closing the facia vents. I bought and fitted an after-market back-up camera with the LCD screen built into the rear-view mirror. Although it doesn't have the calibrated graticules of the OEM fitted system, I have stopped clouting the bamboo stands on the plantation now! I didn't see any rusty nuts when I was underneath doing that installation but I think that is much ado about nothing IMHO.

Thanks for the informative post,

Where did you get the back-up camera and is the mirror a clip-on to the existing one or a replacement?

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The aircon works great and cools the hot cab rapidly but could do with a speed setting between the current 0 and 1 since night driving can get chilly and noisy if you start closing the facia vents.

Have you tried setting the blower to windscreen setting? I haven't done any night driving or early morning when chilly, so haven't tried this setting. Agree that closing the vents increases the noise sad.png

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Dropped by the Udon Ford dealer yesterday to get my plates. I counted 4 or 5 WT's all dressed up an awaiting new owner collection on the forecourt.

I have +14.5km on the odometer already so due for the first service some time this month. I read in earlier threads about people bringing their Ranger's in much earlier for that first service. Have any new owners here gone by the book and got the first service as scheduled by the maker at 15km? I recall the price for the techie oil in itself was in excess of 3000 baht. Is that about right?

So far I have no complaints and find the truck OK for getting around town and very good for the long-haul runs. Never hauled any loads so the 2.2 6AT delivers what I need. I did have a gripe about a squeaking drivers seat but found out that my fat arse presses down on the seat-height adjustment lever when I get in so eventually there's a metal-on-metal contact on the lowest setting somewhere, hence the squeak. One or two pulls on the seat-height adjustment sorts this but I may need to find where the contact is and bung some rubber stops in there. The aircon works great and cools the hot cab rapidly but could do with a speed setting between the current 0 and 1 since night driving can get chilly and noisy if you start closing the facia vents. I bought and fitted an after-market back-up camera with the LCD screen built into the rear-view mirror. Although it doesn't have the calibrated graticules of the OEM fitted system, I have stopped clouting the bamboo stands on the plantation now! I didn't see any rusty nuts when I was underneath doing that installation but I think that is much ado about nothing IMHO.

Thanks for the informative post,

Where did you get the back-up camera and is the mirror a clip-on to the existing one or a replacement?

I got it on Ebay while I was back in the UK. I think it was about 70 quid. The new mirror clips over the existing one and handily has a wider view than the original one.

Just noticed a considerable ding in the drivers-side rear bumper that wasn't there yesterday! I guess some <deleted> clouted me as I was parked up. That size of ding as well as there now being no finger-wide gap between trailing edge of bumper and bodywork would have been a defo whiplash moment if I had done it myself. Oh well, it has white plates now so not new by any stretch of the imagination!

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The aircon works great and cools the hot cab rapidly but could do with a speed setting between the current 0 and 1 since night driving can get chilly and noisy if you start closing the facia vents.

Have you tried setting the blower to windscreen setting? I haven't done any night driving or early morning when chilly, so haven't tried this setting. Agree that closing the vents increases the noise sad.png

I did try that and when it wasn't causing too much windscreen condensation during rainy season drives, the air made my eyes dry out. I also tried venting to the floor but then I needed socks!

Forgot to mention that I reckon the sound system rocks though. I either play my mp3 tracks from my phone through a Belkin adapter (Halfords again) plugged into the Aux jack or if the 3G signal is solid, stream Arrow Classic Rock and crank it up so I can't hear the vents whistling.

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The aircon works great and cools the hot cab rapidly but could do with a speed setting between the current 0 and 1 since night driving can get chilly and noisy if you start closing the facia vents.

Have you tried setting the blower to windscreen setting? I haven't done any night driving or early morning when chilly, so haven't tried this setting. Agree that closing the vents increases the noise sad.png

I did try that and when it wasn't causing too much windscreen condensation during rainy season drives, the air made my eyes dry out. I also tried venting to the floor but then I needed socks!

Forgot to mention that I reckon the sound system rocks though. I either play my mp3 tracks from my phone through a Belkin adapter (Halfords again) plugged into the Aux jack or if the 3G signal is solid, stream Arrow Classic Rock and crank it up so I can't hear the vents whistling.

Things i found out on my BT50pro . The air get's very dry fast and it is a lot noisier if you put on the recirculation . Put this off and you will notice a sound reduction , next to the air not being so dry . Also , depending on the setting , i can regulate the aircon enough to not make it cold , or even put the aircon off , and leave only the venting function on . Anything above nr2 setting is always loud , nr2 is plenty maintaining the temp wanted inside , even on the hottest days . Only need 3/4 on cooling function when parked in the sun before . I hope this helps you . It is basically the same car so most functions do work the same also .

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Forgot to mention that I reckon the sound system rocks

Maybe if your playing rawk music. Try playing the Orb, Underworld or Leftfield through the speakers. They can't handle the bass, unless you turn the bass right down, which kind of defeats the object. Recommendations on how to improve this? Subwoofer? Don't want to change the audio out.

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Forgot to mention that I reckon the sound system rocks

Maybe if your playing rawk music. Try playing the Orb, Underworld or Leftfield through the speakers. They can't handle the bass, unless you turn the bass right down, which kind of defeats the object. Recommendations on how to improve this? Subwoofer? Don't want to change the audio out.

Cheapest adaption would be a amp with sub . The amp would cut all the low tones from the main speakers ( so they can focus on middle and high tones ) and the bass would be handled by the sub . The amp would also improve control over the main speakers , keeping them more focussed .

The sound is actually good for a standard system , but it isn't a comparison with a real aftermarket system .

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Forgot to mention that I reckon the sound system rocks

Maybe if your playing rawk music. Try playing the Orb, Underworld or Leftfield through the speakers. They can't handle the bass, unless you turn the bass right down, which kind of defeats the object. Recommendations on how to improve this? Subwoofer? Don't want to change the audio out.

Cheapest adaption would be a amp with sub . The amp would cut all the low tones from the main speakers ( so they can focus on middle and high tones ) and the bass would be handled by the sub . The amp would also improve control over the main speakers , keeping them more focussed .

The sound is actually good for a standard system , but it isn't a comparison with a real aftermarket system .

Can you hook the amp up to the stock system? I can't do that in my civic unfortunately. Could the amp go under the front seat, and where would you put a sub also, in a pickup?

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Forgot to mention that I reckon the sound system rocks

Maybe if your playing rawk music. Try playing the Orb, Underworld or Leftfield through the speakers. They can't handle the bass, unless you turn the bass right down, which kind of defeats the object. Recommendations on how to improve this? Subwoofer? Don't want to change the audio out.

Cheapest adaption would be a amp with sub . The amp would cut all the low tones from the main speakers ( so they can focus on middle and high tones ) and the bass would be handled by the sub . The amp would also improve control over the main speakers , keeping them more focussed .

The sound is actually good for a standard system , but it isn't a comparison with a real aftermarket system .

Can you hook the amp up to the stock system? I can't do that in my civic unfortunately. Could the amp go under the front seat, and where would you put a sub also, in a pickup?

Under the passenger seat being most common. Can bolt to floor or bracket to the seat so that it slides back/forward staying out of the way.

Sent from Android please allow errors in type or judgment.

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