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Posted

I would like to upgrade my aircon to a more modern internal fan unit. The old one is very noisy, to the point of disturbing a night's sleep and despite being serviced just 3 months ago., it's now dripping water on a regular basis.

Current models are far more economical and efficient, so it's going to be quite nice to finally see this one off.

Could anyone who has an understanding of these systems, tell me if the water leakage, is being caused by the external compressor, as I am really only planning on replacing the internal unit?

Thanks, in advance.

Posted

Not to sure what your saying here, but why would you not go out and buy a complete new airconditioner? Both compressor and wall unit. Usually a dripping aircon is an indication you have a block somewhere.

Posted

Replacing the indoor unit only isn't going to save you any energy, the compressor in the outdoor unit is the energy hog.

Dripping is usually because the drain from the indoor unit is blocked, or possibly the drip tray hasn't been put back correctly after the service.

Posted

Replacing only the Evaperator (if possible) will do nothing to improve efficiency or economy, buy a complete unit!

Posted

It doesn't actually have water in it. It collects water by nature of being cold and condensing the humidity in the room to a liquid. That water has to go somewhere and burgerking and Crossy are right. See if you can tell where the water is coming from. It probably should be draining into a pan where it can evaporate. That might be outside most likely.

Posted

It doesn't actually have water in it. It collects water by nature of being cold and condensing the humidity in the room to a liquid. That water has to go somewhere and burgerking and Crossy are right. See if you can tell where the water is coming from. It probably should be draining into a pan where it can evaporate. That might be outside most likely.

Related in a big way. Insulation in the ceiling is rare in Thailand and makes a big difference, In my house, The slightly undersized aircon unit was unable to bring the heat down past 28

on hot days unless I left it run all day. I insulated the drop ceilings and everything aircon changed.Now no problem to bring the temp down in shot order from 30 to 27 & within an hour 25.

I have a remote sensing thermo gun & scanned ceiling temps while the insulation was bieng installed. The ceiling temperture in an uninsulated portion of the ceiling was 36 the insulated panel beside it was 27.

Keeping the living room & 1 bedroom comfortable during hot season the electric bill was up to 2500 baht. Last month, 1340.I used 2 different types of insulation with barely percievable differences to effectiveness.

First was a bubble wrap type reflective on both sides and about 5/8 inch thick. The other was 4 inch thick fiberglass insulation with foil on both sides.

I havent done it yet but friends swear by putting a exhaust fan in the attic to blow out overheated air from the attic space sucking outside air from the shady side of your dwelling.

Makes sense as I recall very high temps in the attic space in the late afternoon (in the mid 40's) & still hot in the evening radiating that heat at the insulation & ceiling... ... ...

Posted

I had an a/c which dripped water once, the service guy said the drain pipe was clogged. He cleared the pipe and the problem never came back.

When another one became noisy I had to replace the motor, not cheap: 2500B.

Posted

It doesn't actually have water in it. It collects water by nature of being cold and condensing the humidity in the room to a liquid. That water has to go somewhere and burgerking and Crossy are right. See if you can tell where the water is coming from. It probably should be draining into a pan where it can evaporate. That might be outside most likely.

the water comes from an overflowing pan located in the lower part of the inside unit because the pan's drainage pipe leading to the outside is blocked.

note: for some strange reasons it is very difficult to buy (in Thailand) one of the two components of a split unit separately.

Posted (edited)

An iced-up indoor unit can also spit water out before it even gets to the drain.

Icing up is usually caused by either an overworked AC (simply not enough capacity for the job), low refrigerant gas levels, or a dirty fan/filter (not enough air being moved).

I agree with all the posters recommending you replace the whole system - both indoor and outdoor units.

Edited by IMHO
Posted

This happens to my unit when cleaning/servicing is necessary. The landlord gets the people out who do that and it's good as new. Takes 20 minutes.

Posted

This last time I had the air cons cleaned, I specifically asked to aim the pressure water down and out the drain pipe. One air con has a particularly long path to the drain on my balcony. When they pressure cleaned that pipe, it was like a long snake skin blew out the end. At first I thought it *was* a snake skin! Now I can see water coming out that drain pipe much faster than before.

Posted

note: for some strange reasons it is very difficult to buy (in Thailand) one of the two components of a split unit separately.

Daikin have. One compressor up to 3 units.

And the heat from compressor can leeds to shower unit.

Look the inverter system too. I think it is even more economic today. No more on/off all the time.

Posted

note: for some strange reasons it is very difficult to buy (in Thailand) one of the two components of a split unit separately.

Daikin have. One compressor up to 3 units.

And the heat from compressor can leeds to shower unit.

Look the inverter system too. I think it is even more economic today. No more on/off all the time.

your comment is irrelevant. the op wants to change only the inside unit of his aircon. it is very difficult to buy an inside unit without the compressor/condenser outside unit..

Posted

Assuming the unit is cooling properly, the water leakage is most likely due to a blocked drain pan/drainage tube. On the A/C I use 24/7 downstairs I have to clear the drain tube like clockwork approximately ever year otherwise it gets clogged right at the drain tube inlet...where the pan and drain tube connect or just a few inches beyond that down the drain tube where a 90 degree bend occurs. And once the drain tube go clogged about halfway through its length of approx 3 meters...I expect some dead lizard/big bug clogged it up. Whenever I clean my drain tube I use an approx 50/50 bleach/water solution to kill off the algae growth which can also clog the drain pipe.

As long as you don't see "icing" on the cooling fins underneath the filters which indicates low freon/a freon leak which can cause the fins to ice-over, it's probably just a clogged drain pan/pipe issue which is not hard to clear. If icing-over some of the ice will still melt which causes water leakage where the drain pan can not catch it.

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