38 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

Ah, 4 wires to the old light. I wonder what the 4th one was for (could be a switch output to control other lights).

 

OK, really the safest thing for you to do is to go shopping and get a neon-screwdriver and a cheapo multimeter (you can get both at Tesco).

 

Identify which wires are "live/hot" (if you don't know how to use a neon, please let us know) and connect the brown from your new light to one of those. The chances are good that the white is neutral (if it's not live), so put the blue from the light on that and see if it works.

 

Edit - Did the old light have brown, blue, red and green/yellow? If so just hook the new light colours the same and ignore where the red went. I'd leave the green/yellow off until you know if that black wire really is earth.

" Did the old light have brown, blue, red and green/yellow?" Yes

 

Just checked my home power....only the Red wire is hot.  I now conclude my home power is:

Red= Hot

White= Neutral

Black= Earth/Ground

 

I should connect the new light's Brown to Home Red; new light's Blue to Home White; and new light's Green/Yellow to Home Black.

7 minutes ago, jeffandgop said:

I should connect the new light's Brown to Home Red; new light's Blue to Home White; and new light's Green/Yellow to Home Black.

 

OK, provided you're sure that's how it is.

21 hours ago, Crossy said:

The light is expecting:-

Brown - live or hot (220V).

Blue - neutral.

Green/yellow - ground or earth.

 

If you can verify what you actually have (it's unwise to assume anything with Thai electrics).

 

Thailand tends to use the US NEC colour coding:-

Black - live or hot

White - neutral

Green - ground or earth.

 

A multimeter and a neon screwdriver are very handy things to have.

The wiring colours appear to be british,with all due respect don,t see how a multi tester will help you asertain which cable is connected to which feed,a neon tester will tell which feed wire is live,but seriously as the risk of electrocution could be fatal would advise to get someone in who knows what they,re doing.

6 minutes ago, kingdong said:

The wiring colours appear to be british,with all due respect don,t see how a multi tester will help you asertain which cable is connected to which feed,a neon tester will tell which feed wire is live,but seriously as the risk of electrocution could be fatal would advise to get someone in who knows what they,re doing.

I used a neon tester. Only the red wire returned a live indication

" I now conclude my home power is:

Red= Hot

White= Neutral

Black= Earth/Ground"

 

Going forward, don't assume this to be true at other locations in the house. The odds aren't good.

1 minute ago, jeffandgop said:

I used a neon tester. Only the red wire returned a live indication

A very hard fault to detect is if the earth and neutral are reversed,seriously be carefull,did you buy the unit in uk? that would explain the wiring colours but seriously would ask your mates if any of them are clued up.

17 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

OK, provided you're sure that's how it is.

Thanks. I should have made clear I confirmed that only the red wire was hot via a neon tester so it goes to the new light’s brown. The previous light’s blue wire mated to my home’s white wire which now goes to the new light’s blue wire as its installation instructions says the new lights blue wire is neutral. That leaves my home’s black wire which did not register as live using the neon tester and in the old light installation it connected to the old light’s yellow/green ground

2 minutes ago, kingdong said:

A very hard fault to detect is if the earth and neutral are reversed,seriously be carefull,did you buy the unit in uk? that would explain the wiring colours but seriously would ask your mates if any of them are clued up.

I purchased the light from home pro here in Thailand. It was manufactured in Israel and is a Philips brand

8 minutes ago, mahjongguy said:

" I now conclude my home power is:

Red= Hot

White= Neutral

Black= Earth/Ground"

 

Going forward, don't assume this to be true at other locations in the house. The odds aren't good.

Good point and I already felt this location is probably not indicative of how the rest of the home is wired as this was an added line installed after my house was originally built and wired. I’ll be opening up some electrical plugs to check what those look like later. 

1 hour ago, jeffandgop said:

Thanks. I should have made clear I confirmed that only the red wire was hot via a neon tester so it goes to the new light’s brown. The previous light’s blue wire mated to my home’s white wire which now goes to the new light’s blue wire as its installation instructions says the new lights blue wire is neutral. That leaves my home’s black wire which did not register as live using the neon tester and in the old light installation it connected to the old light’s yellow/green ground

Ok. Hooked the wires as I described and the light works fine. Now I need to complete the wiring with butt splices or Wago connector types as others recommended. 
I want to remove the nut adapter that still affixed to the end of my power line used for the old light. Can I just cut the whole piece off and peel the outer jacket to get to my 3 wires I need to strip and splice to the new light (I hope my Q makes sense)?

 

(And in my pic I have, for now, disconnected the red hot wire from the light’s brown wire awaiting my final splicing). 

 

17 minutes ago, jeffandgop said:

Can I just cut the whole piece off and peel the outer jacket to get to my 3 wires I need to strip and splice to the new light (I hope my Q makes sense)?

Yes but be sure the power is off to that line before you try to cut.  No neon signal.  Else you will find out what a short circuit is.

6 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

Yes but be sure the power is off to that line before you try to cut.  No neon signal.  Else you will find out what a short circuit is.

Always off when I’m handling electricity. Thanks for your kind advice and support. 

1 hour ago, bankruatsteve said:

Yes but be sure the power is off to that line before you try to cut.  No neon signal.  Else you will find out what a short circuit is.

Don’t forget that even with the circuit MCB off that will not automatically stop the RCCB tripping DAMHIKT ???? 

4 hours ago, jeffandgop said:

Thanks. I should have made clear I confirmed that only the red wire was hot via a neon tester so it goes to the new light’s brown. The previous light’s blue wire mated to my home’s white wire which now goes to the new light’s blue wire as its installation instructions says the new lights blue wire is neutral. That leaves my home’s black wire which did not register as live using the neon tester and in the old light installation it connected to the old light’s yellow/green ground

 

You should consider getting something like this: